[dave]

word i dare say it also comes from One Summer - doesn't benP do the first moves sans poids?

[Jaspersharpe]

Neil - I didn't link it all from the start as it was too greasy but I was doing it by the second method you suggested and could do it ok like that. This felt much easier than the various other ways I had been trying which is why I thought I might have been cheating. I will return and do it this way and then try the sitter.

I did try The Pinch. This is a problem I used to find very easy but obviously now it's a different matter! The conditions made it even harder and although I managed the first two moves I didn't make great progress.

It's been great climbing there again despite the fucking awful humidity and heat. Looking forward to some better conditions as I have shitloads to do there. I'll compile some more questions for you next time I'm there.

Re the foot off thing - think I was shown it like that originally but more as a way of doing it than a rule but this was one of the other things I couldn't bloody remember. 

[Bonjoy]

word i dare say it also comes from One Summer - doesn't benP do the first moves sans poids?

It's the kids again see. They come in the night, they tape over bits of your old videos with them dressed in dread wigs and faded wife beaters tucked into baggy tights, doing wack sequences on all your problems. Besides BenP has to do it footless, he lost his feet in a farming accident in 78, do you know nothing?!

[dave]

presumably when some goat-milking machinery malfunctioned.

[dobbin]

I've definately always understood it to be a footless start.

be wary of cloven hooved beasts at the crag, for they'll have yer gizzards soon as look at yer.

[The Sausage]

um, my belief was that sean's started footless off the rail, whereas 'jason's' or 'jason's start' began under the roof, starting with the feet on the back wall and swinging the right foot onto the blocky spike for the match in the break before swinging to face the other way for the next few moves. Also thought that strict sean's went with right to hold under high roof thing and left out to crimp before rocking back right to finish. I've never seen anyone do this though...

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh God. It's never fucking simple is it?! 

[travs]

Joe, right to hold under roof left out to crimp is the way I always do Sean's.

[a dense loner]

so what we've gathered from all this is that the 4 or 5 people who frequent or have frequented this crag have different rules for each problem. why is it that this place gets hallowed status again? hard climbing it may be, but you can climb hard anywhere if you don't know what you're doing

[Johnny Brown]

you can climb hard anywhere if you don't know what you're doing

Can't decide if them's wise words or the mutterings of a retard

[dave]

you can climb hard anywhere if you don't know what you're doing [\quote]

Can't decide if them's wise words or the mutterings of a retard


I can't decide if you or lee said that what with all the wack concentric quoting going on.

[a dense loner]

the retarded mutterings of a wise man.

i don't know how to quote a snippet from a paragraph. nothing annoys me more than people quoting quotes, or bringing the same photo up, all the way down a page. apart from dogs, nothing annoys me more than dogs. apart from stoners. apart from crustys. shit i can't stop

[fatboySlimfast]

the retarded mutterings of a wise man.

i don't know how to quote a snippet from a paragraph. nothing annoys me more than people quoting quotes, or bringing the same photo up, all the way down a page. apart from dogs, nothing annoys me more than dogs. apart from stoners. apart from crustys. shit i can't stop

what about a crusty with a dog, smoking a joint and quoting lines from Withnail and I?

My take on seans, start footless!
Mind you these days Id be lucky to do the walk down to the crag

[Andy Harris]

Seans problem was originally climbed with footless 1st move to LH edge, LF to slopey pod, RH match next to edge, pop again with RH to sloper, rock out left to small square edge, RH funny sidepull, jug.

Then the more modern approach of going LH into funny sidepull was taken.

The 1st move was always done footless and always deemed to be the crux. Gavin Ellis used to throw right barneys falling off this move. As per previous limestone posts this may well have been through lack of technique / foresight / good heels but then cragx is an elimintae crag in the majority. Basically do it how ever you can to get the tick then get the harder variant done.

Jasons sit start did use the foot faggotry and whilst given 7c+ originally was actually deemed easier than Seans with the footless start (ie 7c).

Malc did used to do a Seans eliminate where you missed the match on the lip and pulled RH from 1st hold through to the big edge. Not sure on grade buta  big move (7c+ or harder?)

[Jaspersharpe]

Gav? Throwing a strop? Surely not.

Nice one Andy. As I mentioned I thought you'd clear this up.

[Kingy]

There is hope for us yet on Sean's. The benefit of this thread for me has been to see the plethora of methods that exist for the problem and that if you can't do the campus bit then you can still (within the rules) get a foot on for the move.  Nice one, I will try it this way first and then try to do the campus ting on a later attempt. So much to do here it seems!!

[r-man]

Wierd, I thought the footless move was one of the easiest moves, and I'm by no means a campus beast.

Jason's start is definitely a bit harder than the footless start if you don't use a heel, which is how I was trying it. But now it seems this has never been the rule for Jason's. Damn. I'm going to do it this way anyway.

Superman has been repeated, but as far as I know only by Tim Clifford.

Think someone mentioned recently that Mick Adams has done it too.

[dave]

didn't rich "bomber graham" simpson also do it?

[Paul B]

believe so.

[Jaspersharpe]

Anyone been to Crag X this week?

Last Wednesday it was all dry and as an afterthought at the end of my session I had a quick go at The Pinch. Surprised myself by getting to the last move in a couple of goes and although too knackered to finish it off I was 'Rad&Syked' ^tm to return on the Friday to crush it. Of course I got there on Friday afternoon to find a river running down The Pinch and pretty much the whole place dripping wet. There were dry bits of rock but only between the problems which made it look as if the crag was having a laugh at my expense.

 

So is it going to be worth having a look tomorrow, bearing in mind that I'll be quite pushed for time and so could do without wasting any driving out there only to find that it's still in the same sorry state? I'm guessing the answer is going to be "don't bother" but I'm trying to be optimistic.

[Jaspersharpe]

Having looked out of the window this morning I now do not need an answer to this question. 

Fucking bastard weather.

[dobbin]

Theres a fucking weather warning in place for this afternoon/tomorrow now beast. Roy did go up there on Weds though, but clearly it is now not wednesday and rain has passed since. So, no. Dont go.

[Jaspersharpe]

Cheers. Yeah the fact that there was a river running down our road and that driving to work the M1 resembled a dark, misty lake this morning kinda decided it for me!

Was it dry on Wednesday then? I was considering going then but for various reasons (one being I thought it'd probably still be gopping) didn't.

[dobbin]

Dunno, roy left the mighty 'con and we never saw him again. But I would have thought so, at least in the morning anyway.

Hopefully, as you say, it might be allright later on in sept and oct. Sure hope so.

[Jaspersharpe]

Yes me too. Can't believe how adverse I've become to climbing on plastic having been spoiled by the joy of an ever dry Rubicon.