[blockhead]

How does this work now the pinchcrimpedge thing has snapped off. Do you try to use whats left or the dirty crimp next to it? Is it still 7c+... as superman is supposed to be easier since it snapped?

[Ru]

Yeah, just use what's left of the superman sidepull. It's no harder or easier. I've always been totally suprised that this gets 7c+ - maybe it's the fabled "easier for the short" hard problem of another thread.

[wannaclimb8a]

if so ru why didnt ya post it as easier for the short ya git



rich

[Ru]

I don't know whether it actually is easier for the short, I just found it easy. But then again I also find demon wall roof easy, and that's a problem short arses moan about a lot.

[Stu Littlefair]

I think it's easier for the fiendishly crimpy. It's certainly easy for me anyway (why isn't there a 'look at me, looking at me' smiley?). Whilst we're at cragX in beta mode what is the new sequence for superman. Does it use those hideous 2finger sharp crimps? If so it's gone right off my to-do list.

[Huffy]

Think it's a go again move with left hand to catch small crimp if i remember right.

I find Hulk tricky

[blockhead]

Cheers for the beta. I had a look at hulk before the sidepull snapped and thought it was nails where as i did sean's ok...ish. Was there last week - most of the lines were wet but what was left of the sidepull looked pants and very small

[Doylo]

yeah the snapped hold makes no difference, its miles harder than Seans hence 7c+, and if Huffy finds it tricky........

[dobbin]

and if Huffy finds it tricky........

Then he's probably injured?

[al]

its miles harder than Seans hence 7c+

funny that, always felt the opposite to me (did them both for the first time on the same day and sent the hulk ok, but got whipped by sean's till last orders) -  how about the pinch? it is a whole load harder than both, never been able to grip the grip

[The Sausage]

Dragging up an old thread (again)... For the first move, is it de rigeur to pull straight off the floor with left foot on shitty spikey foothold and slap straight to the lower sloper, or is there some sort of right-foot-cam shenanigans in the break (superman start holds)? Presumably, you then slap straight to the higher sloper and match (it seems DESPERATE to hold). Does it continue up from there?

It feels like full value 7c+ to me - for what it's worth I thought the pinch was ok (a bit knack-y), sean's a bit harder (more to it, especially starting under the lower roof), and the hulk feels the hardest of the three.

[Andy B]

Watched Welford on this, amongst other things on Saturday. He used the right foot cam and went to the middle slopey pinch with his right and the higher sloper with his left. Bonjoy happened to mention this as the "approved" sequence yesterday too.

[Paul B]

some sort of right-foot-cam shenanigans in the break

This doesn't sound right, sorry for being a dunce but are you doing this before you hit the sloper?

[The Sausage]

Yes, I can hit the sloper easily without the foot cam, but struggling to hold it. I seemed to remember The Boy using the foot cam last year, so gave that a try. I can get my foot up, but it seems to push me out. To be honest, it seems a much better move not using the foot cam, but extreme care is needed not to just bounce of the floor and straight into the move.

I was hoping for a definitive answer so I could concentrate on one method only! Oh well, will just have to try harder...

[Andy B]

I'm counting Welford as fairly definitive. I intend to be going with the foot cam and lower sloper first sequence.

[The Sausage]

I'm counting Welford as fairly definitive.

True enough. Reckon I need a sustained effort at getting the foot cam in. Decision made. For now...

[Paul B]

what like moon on play hard/work hard?

I'd been told pull on, slap and it was difficult to hold.

[Andy B]

what like moon on play hard/work hard?

Hence the "fairly" in my sentence.

I'd been told pull on, slap and it was difficult to hold.

Welford + Lovejoy = good enough for me

[Ru]

You don't need to cam the right foot, just rock your weight onto the foothold.

It finishes as per Superman (rock up right to crimp).

[The Sausage]

Mr Moon (on his website) rocks onto the right toe. Don't think I'm flexible enough for this.

I'm sure all sequences are equally valid, I just want the most efficient! The thing is Welford's a wad (as are Ru and Ben) - all operating well below their limit on this, and Bonjoy loves a high foot, so i'm non the wiser. Any weedy, unflexible 6 footers out there with an almost infinite boredom threshold and plenty of time on their hands? I want your beta! If not, will stick to my usual approach - seige it into submission (or not, as the case may be...)

[Andy B]

I'm sure all sequences are equally valid

That's a bold statement to make on a peak limestone problem!

Any weedy, unflexible 6 footers out there with an almost infinite boredom threshold and plenty of time on their hands?

DAVE...HEY DAVE!

Where is he when you need him?

[Bonjoy]

I could do the move both ways, but useing the right toe (I think I just put toe on, don't think I found any useful cammage) is more satisfactory than pulling on waiting for momentum to cease then slapping hold, which seems a sniff away from a french start.
Once I got the slap I then went again with RH to the high sloper. This was the way I was shown it. However I was later  told (by some meally-mouthed cheeseweasel) this isn't kosher, so I guess i'll have to go back and do it again the 'proper' way.

[n_man]

Surely pulling on and doing a move to the sloper is far harder than jumping to it from the ground, which is what is in effect being suggested. Could you apply the same logic to The Thing or to The Press ie jumping for the first hold and count that as a valid ascent?

[dave]

Any weedy, unflexible 6 footers out there with an almost infinite boredom threshold and plenty of time on their hands?

DAVE...HEY DAVE!

Where is he when you need him?

Heres my beta for The Hulk:

1.Walk up to problem in trainers, have a feel at the holds, decide they feel massive and it looks piss.

2. Put rock shoes on and chalk up.

3. Fail to pull off the ground.

4. Feel like an idiot and sack it off.

[Jaspersharpe]

Any weedy, unflexible 6 footers out there with an almost infinite boredom threshold and plenty of time on their hands?

I did this a very long time ago. No heel cams were involved and jumping off the ground was not allowed. However if I remember correctly I did it as pull on and slap like Paul B is describing. Having looked at Moony's video I'm pretty sure I didn't get my right foot up first as he does but I don't think this sequence is either invalid or any easier. Hand sequence was how he does it. For what it's worth I thought it was quite a lot harder than The Pinch but whether these problems are still the same now is another matter. Sorry, this isn't much help at all is it.