[monkey boy]

Have to say I find the Hulk nails! Tried that crazy right foot cam but that didnt work, simply pulling on with left foot and slapping up is how i try to do it.

Significantly harder than seans and the pinch in my opinion. I find it harder than the Thing too (that must be a height thing tho)?!

[The Sausage]

Surely pulling on and doing a move to the sloper is far harder than jumping to it from the ground, which is what is in effect being suggested.

What I suggested, and Bonjoy too mentioned, is that it is important to NOT jump into the first move if you are not using your right foot on anything. To be fair, getting the distance is not an issue, holding the sloper when you hit it is.

Anyway, thanks for all the beta - i guess i'll just stick with trying the various methods until one wins out...

[Andy Harris]

The original way tio do the 1st move and fully desparate is left foot only on spike and horrid move to sloper with right. However the likes of Malc & Jerry could lock this. Think it was Zippy who worked out rocking over on right toe was the only way he could do it. I would guess 99% of people do it this way because it's easier. Some people do use a cam but i guess this is a little bunched if you are taller.

If you're a purist Jerry always used to say the little square cut left foot hold for the pop move was chipped and not in. Unfortunately the original foothold fell off and the subsequent foot hold makes this even harder.

I'd say easiest variation with cam and chipped hold is deffo 7c+ and original contrived way is closer to if not 8a.

[The Sausage]

As is always the case, just a load of blah blah blah until Mr Harris clears things up. However...

...when you say "for the pop move", I presume you mean the move to the top sloper with your left hand? Not that it matters, I'm not quite up to eliminating footholds yet!

[dobbin]

Not a problem thats on Roy's list, so not something I should be entertaining really - but still on the secret Morton list of things I want to do, I pull on as standard - left in pinchy hurty thing, lf on square edge (downturned cheating shoes help here), right sort of pinching the remains of the superman hold, then right foot toe and claw on the dish, if I get this right I can casually move to the pinchy sloper before falling off in a heap. Actually, its not that bad, I sort of have a wave at the top sloper before unceremoniously slumping. Really got to get this one done. Tis good problem.

Obviously, not done the Hulk, so cant really comment that its harder or not, but I found Sean's steady, took ages on the pinch and havent done the hulk.

[(woz)]

joe:
I'm reasonably tall, and trying to put my right foot on pushes me away from the rock. Just go for a left toe. And no jumping off the floor as someone was suggesting!

[Paul B]

I don't think anyone was meaning actually jump off the floor. Its pretty clear we're not in France.

[(woz)]

Surely pulling on and doing a move to the sloper is far harder than jumping to it from the ground, which is what is in effect being suggested. Could you apply the same logic to The Thing or to The Press ie jumping for the first hold and count that as a valid ascent?

[The Sausage]

Just to re-iterate my original comment:

It seems a much better move not using the foot cam, but extreme care is needed not to just bounce of the floor and straight into the move.

It seems n-man was suggesting this was being suggested, which it clearly wasn't. No actual suggestion of a jump start anywhere. And as Paul says, we're not in France, so why he thought it was being suggested, je ne sais pas. Peut-etre, parce-que je suis un saussison (?)

[John Cooke]

I did it by pulling on with just my left foot on and flagging with my right then throwing for the crimp with my right hand. My left foot then comes off and onto goes onto the break (where moony rocks with his right foot on the vid) and from there i slap for the sloper, match the crimp thing next to it and throw my right heal up (same as moony) I then make the last two moves Gaston and Pocket off the heal.

Out of interest, what are the holds used for Superman and Superwoman?

[Jaspersharpe]

Had a look at this is in minging conditions last Friday (literally a look rather than even trying to pull on). There seem to be loads of different holds since I last did it which is unsurprising seeing how long ago it was, so what's the score with what's in and out? On the start is it LH on the high pinch thing RH on the broken Superman hold and no using the seemingly new little crimps as it looks as if they might make it easier?

I did it by pulling on with just my left foot on and flagging with my right then throwing for the crimp with my right hand.

What crimp is this? Is this in or do you have to go to the sloper with RH?

Out of interest, what are the holds used for Superman and Superwoman?

Seconded? 

[travs]

Jasper, the small crimps have always been there it's just your memory that's crap. Basically left hand high sidepull, right hand top of superman hold, left foot little spike. Pull on, right foot into superman starting hand hold, lock and right hand to superman sloper. Now you can go left hand to high sloper and right hand to edge next to it. Or left foot high and go right hand to edge and then left hand to sloper. Now right foot or heel onto sloper hand hold and stretch out to high slot and back left to finish.

When you've done this try 'In Bulk' 8a, same starting holds, no sloper for right hand, just flick right handed straight to the edge right of the sloper and finish as before.

Good luck.

[travs]

For superman and superwoman. They are essentially the same except when you have the sloper with your right hand and left on sidepull, for superman flick left hand straight to top sloper. For superwoman firstly take your left hand to the hulk side pull and then go to the top sloper. This makes a suprising difference, I could always do superwoman but never did superman.

[Jaspersharpe]

Jasper, the small crimps have always been there it's just your memory that's crap.

  Probably right, sure I'd have noticed them before though!

Basically left hand high sidepull, right hand top of superman hold, left foot little spike. Pull on, right foot into superman starting hand hold, lock and right hand to superman sloper. Now you can go left hand to high sloper and right hand to edge next to it. Or left foot high and go right hand to edge and then left hand to sloper. Now right foot or heel onto sloper hand hold and stretch out to high slot and back left to finish.

Nice one Neil that clears it all up.

For superman and superwoman. They are essentially the same except when you have the sloper with your right hand and left on sidepull, for superman flick left hand straight to top sloper. For superwoman firstly take your left hand to the hulk side pull and then go to the top sloper. This makes a suprising difference, I could always do superwoman but never did superman.

Aha. Yeah I can see how that would make a big difference. Do people use the LH crimp instead on these problems now then or soldier on with the horrible broken hold? And what grade are they? Shame it couldn't have been fixed really as I remember it used to be a really nice hold and now it's minging. 

[travs]

The problem has been repeated, but as far as I know only by Tim Clifford. Sequence is two low dishes for hands, right foot on heel hook. Left hand to edge up and left of broken side pull. Keep right heel on and go to sloper with right hand. Abou a grade harder ie 8a+/b? I looked at this earlier in the year and thought that with a bit of work it would be doable but distinctly harder than before. I spoke to Ben about the hold and he said that he thought Jerry still had it and had contemplated gluing it back on - get on his back and get it sorted.

[Jaspersharpe]

Thought it'd have to be that crimp. It would surely be better for such a classic hard problem to be returned to it's original state if possible but I know Jerry's not really interested in climbing now. Perhaps Falling Down can get on his case about it when  they're next surfing?!

[travs]

Bloody hell were in pseudonym city again. Who is "falling down"?

[Jaspersharpe]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=335

[Jaspersharpe]

On a similar theme (my shocking memory)......Is there an approved sequence on Sean's?

Went yesterday afternoon and did something that may or (more likely) may not have been this problem. Felt too easy and I have a vague recollection of there being rules. Help please. Also, how does the sitter go?

[travs]

I don't know Jasper, am I compiling a how to climb at C********k guide book here so that everyone can go and climb these problems quickly, declare them piss and downgrade them?

Firstly the sitter. Start sitting down -  . Obvious undercutty side pull thing under roof and something else. Pull up into roof and pull round to the sloping hold with the good obvious edge on it. Match and then you're into Seans. Now Seans can be done facing right or left the only real rule is that you can't use a heel and toe! So my sequence from hands on the low scoops just round the lip is right toe on hold out right. Left hand up get hold as pinch with thumb underneath. Lock and bring right hand to next hold. Change left hand to a crimp. Right hand to sloper pull a bit more right hand again to pichy thing at roof intersection. Left foot up, left hand round roof right hand to finishing hold. Now it's also possible to do the top by facing left and going left hand to the pichy thing from the 2 obvious good holds. Then swing right foot right and roll over the top to the finishing hold with your right hand. Given your height Jasper I suspect the latter option is the best.

When you can do Sean's move onto 'Spiderman' at about hard 7C, I did this about 5 years ago. Same sit start to obvious good edge on sloper with right hand. Left hand to really good hold at about same height out left. Big split with feet, right hand to good high edge, left hand to vertical edge just above. Get your left foot onto good hand hold and finish round the upper roof via small 2 finger edge.

Good Luck

[Jaspersharpe]

I don't know Jasper, am I compiling a how to climb at C********k guide book here so that everyone can go and climb these problems quickly, declare them piss and downgrade them?

Yes.

Thank you Neil. Most helpful.

[travs]

No probs Jasper, was your sequence close to the above or do you have to go back and do it again? Anyway if you're now on Sean's you must be getting a lot stronger. I know some taller people think this is quite straight forward but I always thought Sean's was where it started getting hard down here. Have you been on 'The Pinch' yet? I would have thought would have suited you quite well.

[dave]

I thought the rule on seans in addition to the heel-toe thing was that the first 2 moves have to be done footless? or is that just convention rather than rule?

[travs]

Ooh - I don't know about that Dave. If it's the case I may have to go back and repeat it myself!

[Bonjoy]

I thought the rule on seans in addition to the heel-toe thing was that the first 2 moves have to be done footless? or is that just convention rather than rule?

It's a recent (contrived) convention masquerading as an old school rule. By 2015 there'll be kids telling you that Ben and Jerry always did it one handed whilst milking a goat.