[a dense loner]

you guys crack me up

[The Sausage]

you guys crack me up

Yeah come on, there's a perfectly good set of rings just off Woodseats Road, what are you doing wondering abut dry crags? Losers.

[Jaspersharpe]

travs - following on from your comments on the other thread about The Pinch sitter I concur that although the moves aren't difficult they certainly make it considerably harder to link. Worked out a decent sequence yesterday but didn't link it. Makes for a good sustained problem. Just wondering what foot sequence you use as I spent ages trying about 25 different variations before realising I could basically lank it off the lower footholds. This then makes the move to the pinch considerably harder as you have to make three foot movements with your hands on the start holds of the stand up before moving LH. Can definitely do it this way, just interested to know how you did it (or anyone else for that matter).

I did Seans yesterday too but not done it with the foot off start yet (done moves but not linked). I had my right foot on the blocky spike for the start. Still felt like 7C this way though (?) and a great problem for sure. Top hold was still damp but totally useable in comparison to last week.

[travs]

Jasper, it's a long time since a did the sitter though I don't know why and I think I'll have a go at the weekend just to refresh my memory. However, I'm pretty sure I get my feet up to the same holds and make the same move, although I am a lot shorter than your good self. What I can't remember is the foot sequence to get into the same position, I will report back Monday.

[dave]

This then makes the move to the pinch considerably harder as you have to make three foot movements with your hands

thats always going to be tricky.

[Jaspersharpe]

However, I'm pretty sure I get my feet up to the same holds and make the same move, although I am a lot shorter than your good self. What I can't remember is the foot sequence to get into the same position, I will report back Monday.

Cheers Neil. Yeah I end up doing the move to the pinch with feet in the same position as the stand it's just stepping up into that position that makes the move it harder. As you say you'll probably do it differently due to height restrictions. 

This then makes the move to the pinch considerably harder as you have to make three foot movements with your hands

thats always going to be tricky.

Yes I'm considering a tentative 8C+ grade for the "making foot movements with hands" eliminate.

[travs]

Hi Jasper, so after a very quick Saturday session I have a sequence which works for me, hope it works for you too.

Start with hands in the big break and right foot on large hold about 8 inches off the deck and directly below right hand crimp. Right hand up to right hand crimp, then left foot to heel hook on sharp flake below left hand end of left hand foot hold of the stand up. Left hand to left hand crimp, then move left foot to big hold about 6 inches below the stand up foot hold. Stand up, right foot to standup right foot hold, left foot to standup left foot hold and hey presto, we're in the stand up.

I really like The Pinch as a problem and I have to say this does actually add some good moves to it, and is well worth doing.

[Jaspersharpe]

Interesting. Thanks again Neil. Will have a go Wednesday, weather permitting.

[travs]

Is my sequence similar to how you were trying it Jasper?

[Jaspersharpe]

Nope!

I started on the same holds, RF on the same thing and LF on another low flat edge. From here, after trying loads of different foot sequences, I finally realised I could go RH to pinchy crimp LH to crimp without stepping up. Then I moved LF in to a hold level with and next to RF, RF to blocky edge LF to slot and that's the stand up position. As I said, the hard bit will be linking into the next move (to the pinch) having done three foot movements in quite a strenuous position.

[travs]

Ah, that being the case I think you will like the heel hook method as this takes a lot of weight off the fingers. I also found that stepping the left foot firstly to the big hold just below the final left foot hold rather than straight up made a big difference and stopped the move from being too powerful. Good luck Wednesday.

[Jaspersharpe]

OLD THREAD RESURRECTION WARNING!!!!

Surprised myself yesterday by doing the first move of The Hulk a few times. Having tried it briefly last year and only managing an ineffectual wave at the slopey pinch thing I was quite pleased to make some progress. I was using the basic method (surprise surprise) of left toe on spikey thing, RF on nothing, pull on, feel like I should be able to static nonchalantly to the sloper and instead pop for it and hold on for grim death. Was so surpised to stick the hold that I hadn't formulated any kind of plan as to what to do next and ended up just getting my RF in the big dishy thing and slapping hopelessly for the next sloper.

Having checked this thread and wathched the Moon vid again it appears that it should be the LF on something instead for this move but what? There are a number of little edges and nubbins around that area so is it just a case of picking one and rocking over? Also, looking at that next sloper, there is a sort of decent sideways flat part to it which you can almost crimp. Do people go for this as it looks like the only bit of the hold I'd have much chance of hanging. Also, does everyone then use the high right heel (as per Ben's vid) after matching the little edge next to the sloper?

Le Sausage I know you've done this and are a similar height to me - is this how you did it?

Rad & syked for this problem now I've cracked the first move.

[dobbin]

OOoh, I have got to finish my current chapter before I'm allowed back on the lime, but am v.keen for the Hulk.

I have never done the second move either. I do know that TC would hit it somewhere in the middle with his left, then go to that sort of wierd crimp thing on the right, and then move his left onto an edgey thing on the left before right heel up and rock...

[Doylo]

I used the high heel, can't remember the other specifics

[The Sausage]

Nice one Jas, this is the best problem in the world. It feels like a great problem when you're trying it, but when you do it, it's feels like you touched some sort of weightless nirvana for a few seconds. For the second move, i cut loose, put my left toe on a little square edge ,then surge through for the sloper, which I just hit somewhere near the middle. I think I put my right foot on the good hold to match, then I adjusted my left hand to the sideways crimp thing. Then it's heel on the moffatrocity flattie, rock over to the good edge, swap heel for toe, and cruise up to the slot.
Brilliant stuff.
I remember jumping off and just feeling like I was Stephan Glowacz or something.
I'm going back saturday to try and do it again.

[Jaspersharpe]

Excellent, thanks for that, I think I know which "square edge" you mean for the second move. It is an amazing problem. I last did it a very long time ago and it certainly feels like climbing something new.

There were still quite a few wet streaks there yesterday but everything important was dry or dryable. A slight dampness in the air gave way to perfect conditions as the temperature dropped at about half five.

[dave]

christ, do all these limestone ticks done in winter actually count? it was always my understanding that if its not BST and you're not sweating like a gay haemophiliac juggling razors in a sausage factory then its doesn't count. play the game guys, play the game.

[Jaspersharpe]

It was 13.5 degrees when I arrived at the crag. It may still be winter on a technicality but it'd never stand up in court against the weight of evidence to the contrary.

[dave]

Damn you people. Go back to your shanties.

[The Sausage]

For the second move, i cut loose...

Just thought I should clear this point up, as I feel I have mis-represented a great problem. There's no cutting loose/swinging about style on it, it's more of a controlled hop with the left foot - I found this quicker and far more pleasing a move than putting my right foot on and then my left.
Sorry to be so anal...

[benpritch]

if you are going to be totally anal monsieur sausage you should do the second move without the square 'chip' for your left foot which was never there when the prob was first done...

[Jaspersharpe]

Not quite though Ben.........

If you're a purist Jerry always used to say the little square cut left foot hold for the pop move was chipped and not in. Unfortunately the original foothold fell off and the subsequent foot hold makes this even harder.

I'd say easiest variation with cam and chipped hold is deffo 7c+ and original contrived way is closer to if not 8a.

 

[benpritch]

Not quite though Ben.........

If you're a purist Jerry always used to say the little square cut left foot hold for the pop move was chipped and not in. Unfortunately the original foothold fell off and the subsequent foot hold makes this even harder.

I'd say easiest variation with cam and chipped hold is deffo 7c+ and original contrived way is closer to if not 8a.

 

we always used to avoid the chip even after the demise of the mini edge, using the roundy shine smear just to the left of the original hold...  but you are right jas.

[Jaspersharpe]

Bleedin purists!

Fair point however I'll not be making it harder than it needs to be for now. 

[The Sausage]

Sorry about the ambiguity, I meant so anal in clearing up my description of how i did the problem, rather than so anal about how it should be done. HOWEVER, i am now even more psyched to get back on it, knowing there's an even purer, and therefore greater, problem to be done. How does that crag do it?!

p.s. ben, I've PM'd you...