[Jaspersharpe]

Ha ha. I realised what you meant Joe but thanks for being even more anal in wanting to clear up your clearing up!

[dobbin]

i went yesterday and had a bit of a do, after doing the right foot on and move to sloper thing (first move), I found that I hopped my left into the chip/broken thing and right wasnt doing anything. the top sloper was (is) wet on the left, but ok on the right. I was hitting it just left of the crimpy ripple thing and nearly holding it. From there I intend to go right hand to edge beside, change left to the little crease and then you know the rest. Great prob. Am psyched to get it done!

[Jaspersharpe]

See you found it was damp. How annoying when it was dry Monday and hasn't rained since! Feckin unpredictable seepage. Going tomorrow anyway.

Do you mean you were doing the first move with the right toe on a la Moon vid? I tried that last year but it seemed to push me out too much so just went with the basic Jerry way.

[dobbin]

yes! its all about getting your leg outside your elbow which is very flexibility dependent, it feels totally 8c until I get any weight onto that right foot and then I can take my right hand off and have a cup of tea (well ok, thats exaggerating, but my point is, theres a sweet spot. Everything outside it feels hideous, then suddenly you are on and its possible)

[Jaspersharpe]

Hmmm. I am quite flexible so it might be possible and certainly sounds like it might make the move higher percentage. However now I've done the move the basic way I sort of like it in a dirty Old Skool crimp and pull sort of way............

[El Mocho]

God, I thought I had done Seans sitter. Someone had told me vaguely where it went (when having a brew at my house, not at the crag. And it was John Wobble so even less trustworthy) and I just started sat down and climbed up. I didn't know any of the problems were eliminates. I will have to print of this entire thread next time I go.

I guess it will be wet tomorrow morning? Raining in Hathersage at the moment...

[ferret]

God, I thought I had done Seans sitter. Someone had told me vaguely where it went (when having a brew at my house, not at the crag. And it was John Wobble so even less trustworthy) and I just started sat down and climbed up. I didn't know any of the problems were eliminates. I will have to print of this entire thread next time I go.

omg why wud u make this problem an eliminate? thought we had enough of those on peak limestone already.

seemed to me startin on the hold under the roof and climbing straight up was a cool problem about 7c, wot more do ya need?

[dobbin]

Yes you can do that if you like, and no doubt it would be a cool problem and probably about 7c. However Sean's problem, and Jason's problem (which follow the same line but have subtle differences in what you use) are different. To puzzle over why you would make eliminates is to completely ignore the history of the place which is that it was used for training, therefore its all about making it harder, missing out certain holds, things to make it easier etc.

What more do you need? well, if you've done the line using everything then something, clearly.

Mocho, I am going this afternoon. I shall report what I find.

[Adam Lincoln]

Incidently Ferret, i keep getting facebook friend requests thinking i am you! I mean how many Adams from the UK travel round America frequently 
You need to clarify your surname i think! 

[ferret]

 

Incidently Ferret, i keep getting facebook friend requests thinking i am you! I mean how many Adams from the UK travel round America frequently   
You need to clarify your surname i think! 

thats quite funny, will be sure to use my full name in future 

[Adam Lincoln]

Incidently Ferret, i keep getting facebook friend requests thinking i am you! I mean how many Adams from the UK travel round America frequently   
You need to clarify your surname i think! 

thats quite funny, will be sure to use my full name in future 

Hi, the names wood, adam wood! got a very bond ring to it!

[dobbin]

I guess it will be wet tomorrow morning? Raining in Hathersage at the moment...

Fine last night (up till about 1830), however big patches of wetness were starting to appear which I would have thought can only get worse. With specific reference to Sean's, all holds on the hard bit dry, but at the top I use a hold out right which was wet. It did get climbed missing that out, but the person who did so is v.tall.

Regards the Hulk, 4 times matched on the top sloper and still didnt do it! I think the way I will eventually do it is thus : hit sloper on lip with left hand, rf in pod, rh to edge on rhs of sloper, then (and this is where it all goes wrong), I think i shall go lh to the ripple on the rhs, heel up and rock. I tried the lhs of the sloper but it just didnt work. People use another edge, but its v.wet so thats out for now.

Worried that it will be wet through by saturday.

[The Sausage]

Punter!!! 

[Jaspersharpe]

NNFN! 

Dob the ripple thing is a really solid hold if you turn your hand sideways and crimp it. It's the only way I can get anything out of that sloper and will certainly be the way for me to do it. Just need a new right tricep for the second move and I'm in with a shout. Was hitting it last Friday but I already knew I was injured and was just making it worse so it was a half hearted effort. Physio tonight..........

 

[benpritch]

anyone been today?

[dobbin]

I hadnt been then, but I went on saturday and it was good. I heard from visiting leeds raider stubbs that it was also good yesterday.

[Stubbs]

Calumny, as if you'd catch me climbing on dirty peak limestone on a day with such good conditions 

Some damp footholds around the Pinch, Jericho Road (which wasn't climbable I don't think) but everything else dry as far as I could tell, not that I could pull onto anything...

[dobbin]

wetter today than at weekend which was disappointing (but not very!)

[dave]

was at said crag today - there was talk on twitter of the superman sidepull being "fixed", yet still looks the same broken hold to me - what gives?

[Doylo]

it was fixed but broke again, dave mason has the piece

[a dense loner]

someone get it back off dave. bonjoy work some magic

[cofe]

Any weedy, unflexible 6 footers out there with an almost infinite boredom threshold and plenty of time on their hands?

DAVE...HEY DAVE!

Where is he when you need him?

Heres my beta for The Hulk:

1.Walk up to problem in trainers, have a feel at the holds, decide they feel massive and it looks piss.

2. Put rock shoes on and chalk up.

3. Fail to pull off the ground.

4. Feel like an idiot and sack it off.

is that still your beta word?

 

[cofe]

incidentally, crag pretty dry today, but doubt it will last...

[dave]

on the subject of jason's start; I get the impression from sperating the wheat from the chaff on this thread, that jason's start at 7c is non-eliminate, i.e. is essentially a sitter into the 7b-heel-toe-enabled commonsense version of seans? I think thats how i read it, but just want to check. word.

[Kingy]

Good nick last night, all dry. The Superman hold is back on which makes the Hulk pull on probably very slightly easier. The Sharples wonder torch was in full effect after the sun went down, atmospheric!