Bosiwad

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Fiend said:
teestub said:
yetix said:
Somewhat hinted in the comments at terranova being 9a or I'm reading too much into it...

Oh no. Does that predate Burden? If so can we just pretend it doesn’t exist so at least the first Font 9 is something cool!
I agree :2thumbsup:

That's what we're doing with the 9a+s which predated Biographie, so why not?
 
Just confirms what we already know: real, hard climbing is grinding away on some disgusting polished limestone hovel. Everything else is just fun.
 
remus said:
Just confirms what we already know: real, hard climbing is grinding away on some disgusting polished limestone hovel. Everything else is just fun.

The 9’s could have been Action Directe and Burden, now we are going to left with a 4 bolt non line at the Tor and an eliminate trav on the Moravian Karst
 
Is instagram like Twitter for climbers now or something? I’d be terrified to tentative suggest a personal/down-grade now. Didn’t Brooke get accused of misogyny after Box Therapy?
 
monkoffunk said:
Is instagram like Twitter for climbers now or something? I’d be terrified to tentative suggest a personal/down-grade now. Didn’t Brooke get accused of misogyny after Box Therapy?

Same as anything really, it's mostly sensible people with a handful of jeb ends in the mix who get a disproportionate amount of attention.
 
Liamhutch89 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMIIffUMV8g&t=324s

Webb seems to get into the slot ok towards the end of this. Perhaps it's more of a height thing? It's also pretty funny how much Bosi looks like he's barely trying on his attempt compared to this (day 2 vs day 11). Next level.

It's interesting that they claimed that Sleepwalker was America's ahrdest boulder. Hypnotised minds has always looked way harder to me.
 
[quote author=drewruana]
…. Same thing as normal, different body types will have a different experience. I have a -1 reach which means I had to do a few extra hard adjustments to reach the slot crimp, and I couldn’t pinch the top hold since my hands didn’t span. It felt 16 for me compared to other climbs but also it doesn’t mean it’s 16 for everyone, as seen by wills post. Doesn’t mean any of us are right or wrong the grade just gives a relative experience on it
[/quote]
 
I mostly climb with someone who’s almost a foot taller than me and it’s kinda hilarious how different things feel for us, we mostly just laugh at grades because they’re obviously pretty personal and meaningless outside of that personal experience.

Sure they’re a vague guide to the difficulty but they’re never 100% spot on. Look at West Side Story, basically harder than most of the peak 7Cs especially if you’re shorter :lol:
 
Ova Arm, Les Grand Doigts, zaff skocylas, Mossatrocity, cap gun, truffle, spring voyage, submergence, bens wall, domes sit, brass monkeys, echo chamber, diagon alley etc etc these are all easier than west side story :lol: and it’s no secret that most people consider west side 7C especially after the pebble on the face broke making the move to the break even harder if you’re short.
 
Will Hunt said:
Which are these 7Cs that are easier than West Side, please?

Brass Monkeys, Tetris, Hannibal, Pigs Make Nests (and the sit), Domes Sit and maybe Master Kush. For me anyway.
 
If the problems being pointed out as easier aren’t in a similar style to the supposed sandbag, it just makes one look technically deficient, rather than indicating an upgrade is required ;D
 
Dingdong said:
Ova Arm, Les Grand Doigts, zaff skocylas, Mossatrocity, cap gun, truffle, spring voyage, submergence, bens wall, domes sit, brass monkeys, echo chamber, diagon alley etc etc these are all easier than west side story :lol: and it’s no secret that most people consider west side 7C especially after the pebble on the face broke making the move to the break even harder if you’re short.

I thought west side was ok at 7B+ and I'm 5'7''. Maybe you are technically deficient at vert climbing, just like I'm technically deficient at squeezing.

Also whatr stubs said, build a list of vert 7Cs you think are easier...
 
I wouldn’t say I’m technically deficient at vert, I actually climb most of west side quite easily but I still think it’s harder than 7B+ My point was more that things feel different to different people who are of different sizes etc going back to wills downgrade of sleepwalker
 
I was fortunate enough to come to it with decent skin, decent rubber, and good connies and it felt low-end 7B+ to me. I'm sure I'd find the steep squeezes you've listed harder. I am crap at steep squeezing, that doesn't mean I declare all the steep squeezes I can't do a grade harder.

Dingdong said:
I wouldn’t say I’m technically deficient at vert

Didn't you also leave a comment on The Storm on UKC saying "7C all day"? That was downgraded years ago and rightly so.
 
Didn’t the storm used to be 8A originally? Seems like quite the mental downgrade. Again I found the storm easy, doesn’t mean I can’t give my opinion on the grade :lol:

Also Will don’t forget you’re about a foot taller than me… oh and thanks for the pebble beta on the storm, actually helped loads!
 
Arguing over 1 grade is pointless, even within a given style. Reducing the scale to 'low 7', 'high 7', 'low 8', etc. still wouldn't completely eliminate debate. How many more debates do we need to see for this to be obvious to everyone?
 


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