Duma
Well-Known Member
M - Siurana, Herbolari. Bit hot in the sun but we wanted a gentle intro and there's a bunch of low 6's. High quality but a bit run out for some of the team's taste. I kept it easy with a couple of 6a's to warm up, then Remus showed the way on the gloriously positioned Cojón Prieto 7a, I managed a flash without feeling like I was risking the finger. The harder stuff looked very fingery though so just finished off on (the excellent) Arrebato 6b+
T - Siurana, Siuranella. Friendlier bolting but pretty cold especially in the wind. Feeling pretty broken after 7 out of 9 days on, but rain forecast for Weds and psyche of new team members got me out. El Mareao 6a to warm up, then the excellent and continually interesting Kun 7a. Remus got the draws in Memorias de Una Sepia 8a and I dogged up, mostly testing out whether the holds were ok for my finger, pleased that not only was there only one hold/move that felt dodgy (and that was very low down) but also to do all the moves quick. Will be back. Knackered after that though and looking forward to a proper rest tomorrow.
W - rest
T - Siurana, Primavera. Couple of easies to warm up, sadly gf tweaked her back on the second so helped her back to the accommodation. Nipped back to the crag in time to look longingly at Mandragora 7b+, think it sensible to avoid hard onsighting this trip though. Did fit in a quick flash of Se M'apaga la Baldufa 7a, fun jug hauling to a surprisingly tough boulder before the chains.
F - Siurana, Ca la Isabel. A 5 on the left to start, then Diedre 6c+ wasn't the warm up I was hoping, tough low crux. Moved the clips over to the adjacent 7b, Death Metal, while lowering. Decent flash go but off a couple of moves before easy ground. Terrible 2nd attempt, too casual, faffed clipping just before the crux, too boxed to get through. Easy 3rd try. Remus smashed out the epic looking Boys Don't Cry 7c in the meantime, should have used my beans on that tbh.
S - rest.
S - Siurana, Siuranella. Warmed up on the excellently positioned Mort de Gana 7a, was in the cloud for this, but it burnt off quick to leave Memorias de una Sepia in the full and blazing sun. Despite that we both had good first attempts, Remus getting impressively through to the 6th bolt but then ruining it all by succumbing to the lure of the resting jug out right (this is only marginally off route, but the pure of heart (and those of us who want the 8a tick) know it's not in). My go wasn't quite as good, fell going to the good pocket you clip the 6th from. Chuffed to get there so quick though, also linked from 5th to dropping the last delicate rockover. Then hid from the sun for a few hours, once it started to cool had a really good 2nd RP, feeling good through the low crux, but overly casual at the 6th and came up short on the pocket again. Tweaked sequence there and refined the top rockover crux. Remus' second go was sabotaged by thin skin (or was it the gods punishing him for lack of moral fibre?) I snuck in a final attempt as the sun got low, slightly worse through the tricky crimps up to the second, good 3rd to 5th but carrying the effort from the early mistakes. Better sequence got me past the 6th this time, bit of a fight though the last of the PE section, then lots of resting through a couple of clips of good holds, trying to get as much back as possible before the final rockover, also drinking in the awesome views of sunset down the valley, trying to fix it in the memory as these are the moments I'm here for. Final crux was fine in the end and a romp to the belay. Brilliant day, and one of the aims for this trip ticked off.
? kg.
T - Siurana, Siuranella. Friendlier bolting but pretty cold especially in the wind. Feeling pretty broken after 7 out of 9 days on, but rain forecast for Weds and psyche of new team members got me out. El Mareao 6a to warm up, then the excellent and continually interesting Kun 7a. Remus got the draws in Memorias de Una Sepia 8a and I dogged up, mostly testing out whether the holds were ok for my finger, pleased that not only was there only one hold/move that felt dodgy (and that was very low down) but also to do all the moves quick. Will be back. Knackered after that though and looking forward to a proper rest tomorrow.
W - rest
T - Siurana, Primavera. Couple of easies to warm up, sadly gf tweaked her back on the second so helped her back to the accommodation. Nipped back to the crag in time to look longingly at Mandragora 7b+, think it sensible to avoid hard onsighting this trip though. Did fit in a quick flash of Se M'apaga la Baldufa 7a, fun jug hauling to a surprisingly tough boulder before the chains.
F - Siurana, Ca la Isabel. A 5 on the left to start, then Diedre 6c+ wasn't the warm up I was hoping, tough low crux. Moved the clips over to the adjacent 7b, Death Metal, while lowering. Decent flash go but off a couple of moves before easy ground. Terrible 2nd attempt, too casual, faffed clipping just before the crux, too boxed to get through. Easy 3rd try. Remus smashed out the epic looking Boys Don't Cry 7c in the meantime, should have used my beans on that tbh.
S - rest.
S - Siurana, Siuranella. Warmed up on the excellently positioned Mort de Gana 7a, was in the cloud for this, but it burnt off quick to leave Memorias de una Sepia in the full and blazing sun. Despite that we both had good first attempts, Remus getting impressively through to the 6th bolt but then ruining it all by succumbing to the lure of the resting jug out right (this is only marginally off route, but the pure of heart (and those of us who want the 8a tick) know it's not in). My go wasn't quite as good, fell going to the good pocket you clip the 6th from. Chuffed to get there so quick though, also linked from 5th to dropping the last delicate rockover. Then hid from the sun for a few hours, once it started to cool had a really good 2nd RP, feeling good through the low crux, but overly casual at the 6th and came up short on the pocket again. Tweaked sequence there and refined the top rockover crux. Remus' second go was sabotaged by thin skin (or was it the gods punishing him for lack of moral fibre?) I snuck in a final attempt as the sun got low, slightly worse through the tricky crimps up to the second, good 3rd to 5th but carrying the effort from the early mistakes. Better sequence got me past the 6th this time, bit of a fight though the last of the PE section, then lots of resting through a couple of clips of good holds, trying to get as much back as possible before the final rockover, also drinking in the awesome views of sunset down the valley, trying to fix it in the memory as these are the moments I'm here for. Final crux was fine in the end and a romp to the belay. Brilliant day, and one of the aims for this trip ticked off.
? kg.
