Collateral ligaments

[cofe]

Wondered if anyone had any advice for how to expedite the recovery of a finger collateral ligament strain? Ulnar side of the index finger, right (dominant) hand, discomfort mainly between PIP and MCP joints, but aches right at base of finger too (I do wonder if the MCP was implicated more than thought). I think I strained it mildly in early July doing something random (not climbing), then the finger collapsed in on itself mid match on an edge in mid July. Scan 10 days later showed no tear/rupture but inflammation, and finger wasn't happy (couldn't bend it fully for a couple of weeks). Didn't climb for about 5-6 weeks and have been building it slowly, going OK at the moment (indoors), strictly buddy taping, no crimping or fingery stuff. Finger is 'strong' in the usual plane.

Problem with it being the index is I use it for everything, and it's very hard not to catch it on stuff without thinking. It hasn't really been a problem climbing but it does ache persistently on and off through the day which can do my head in a bit.

Coming up to 12 weeks now. Bit worried the answer is time/patience, but wondered if anyone had any experience or advice. There's not a ton of info out there. I might need to be taking it more slowly than I have been doing with the climbing.

Ta.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Pretty sure I had a collateral ligament strain about 5 years ago. I tried all sorts of stuff. icing, resting, voodoo flossing, those julian saunders stretches (which were kind of helpful but also painful). It used to hurt like fuck in the morning and then ease. I climbed on it but occasionally the pain was quite bad. In the end what sorted mine was 3 months climbing in spain on jugs. I've barely felt it since, but I do still religious tape the finger either side of the PIP joint, which stops me crimping too acutely on it. No idea if this is scientific but I think it does something.

Based on my experience I'd say 12 weeks is nothing. I did mine in September 2017 and I think the last bad flare up I got from it was summer 2019. It didn't hurt all the time during that period though. So unfortunately I would say patience is the way and unfortnately tolerance of some background pain ... :sorry: That said there are probably things I could have done to speed the process up!

 

[SA Chris]

3 moths in Spain then Cofe, doctor's orders

 

[cofe]

Based on my experience I'd say 12 weeks is nothing. I did mine in September 2017 and I think the last bad flare up I got from it was summer 2019. It didn't hurt all the time during that period though. So unfortunately I would say patience is the way and unfortnately tolerance of some background pain ... :sorry: That said there are probably things I could have done to speed the process up!

Cheers. Kind of confirms my time suspicions, sadly. Problem is I'm rather impatient. And 3 weeks in Spain is a non-starter! ;D

 

[haydn jones]

I injured mine in 2016 and the only time it goes away is after prolonged Spanish jug pulling. If I do a sustained period of bouldering it comes back.

 

[Paul B]

I think you can switch three weeks in Spain for Duncan's TM Easy Trad (weather allowing).

I've also had this but I can't remember what fixed it I just remember it feeling totally fine and then doing something that would cause lateral loading followed by intense "don't do that" pain.

 

[cofe]

Maybe I will have to go sport climbing in Spain for a few months after all.

 

[Paul B]

Does operating a brake lever hurt? :

 

[cofe]

It does, actually. I can't one-finger brake on the MTB so haven't been on it, and have to buddy tape for the gravel bike.