crimpinainteasy
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2017
- Messages
- 124
Will Hunt said:To me, grades generally make complete sense. As a way of comparing problems with other similar problems I think they generally work really well. Grades make less sense when obvious outliers aren't robustly challenged. These tend to be newer problems or things where there's been a sequence change/altered holds/cleaner holds etc. Things like Renaissance at Baildon - if that was left at 7B+ then everything else starts to fall apart because similar climbs of 7A or 7A+ feel about the same.
Trying to make sense of grades by thinking about how hard they feel to you (instead of how hard they feel compared to other similar problems) leads to confusion. People have so much knowledge about their physical strength ("I can do X% BW on a Y mm edge so I'm strong for grade Z") that it makes them feel entitled to a particular grade - if they then struggle it leads them to assume that the problem should be upgraded. I cannot touch Crystal Method, but that doesn't mean it isn't 7B+. I'm just shit at shouldery rock-overs.
Maybe this just makes me a bad grader then, but I cba trying to grade problems on how hard I think a move is going to feel for someone else, I just grade on how hard something feels for me. I find even among problems that on are on paper in the same style and in a similar grade range there is still a significant amount of variance in how much effort me and my friends spend on each individual problem.