Power club 762: 15 - 21 July 2024

[oldfella]

Howdy Rangers

Monday -
Fingerboard at home
18mm edges
Six 10s hangs @ total weight 89kg
Six 7s hangs on 12mm edges @ total weight 81.6kg.

Tuesday
Rest day

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
Six 10s hangs @ 91.7kg
Five 7s hangs on 12mm edges at 81.6kg

Friday
Rest

Saturday

Colehill Quarry with Phil
I am a Poser and I Don't Care. 5c flash
This side of 30. 7a two tie ins. could not stick the crux. linked to the top from there.
What a Pity. 6b. tough for the grade awkward flash
another Roadside Attraction 6a. excellent climb. flash
Farty Towels 6b. tough in places. flash
It's a Hamster Mr. Fawlty. 6a+. Got a bit stumped between 3rd & 4th bolt & committing for the grade. Just got back to the ground when thunder and rain started.
Soaked by heavy rain at the end of the afternoon

Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym.

Evening 40minute peloton ride

 

[Wellsy]

Monday - Rested

Tuesday - Gentle indoor session then board up to 7A+. Pleased.

Wednesday - Indoor session, pull training. 40kgs for 3 on weighted pulls; PB

Thursday - Rested

Friday - Indoor session on easy volume (whole new red circuit at works)

Saturday - Gym session. Benched up to 90kgs (70 for 10, 80 for 5). 20mm edge pick ups, first time I've done any finger training for ages due to injury; 70kgs right, 65kgs left. 50kg 1 RM on weighted pullups, PB. Cleans, sets of 3 up to 60.

Sunday - Indoor pottering. Pretty knackered.

 

[Duma]

Thanks Gav.

M - lunch, TCA, 90 min. Very low psyche when arrived but perked up a bit. Mostly trying 2 problems, no ticks but good workout on one and fun movement on the other. 12 hr night shift.
T - aft, TCA, 90 min. Whites, Blacks and Blues, slabby to slightly overhanging. 8 problems, flashed 4, 1 quickly, the other 3 didn't have time to try properly but did all but the last move of all of them. 12 hr night shift.
W - 12 hr night shift.
T - aft, TCA, 60 min. Tidying up after Tuesday. Did 2 out of 3 quick and a good link on the last. Would have been nice to get all 3, or at least link the first two moves of the last one, but ran out of time. Good session anyway. 12 hr night shift.
F - aft, TCA, 40 mins. Dragged self there to wake up after nights, but felt awful and couldn't get any enthusiasm or snap. Billion degrees too, so sacked it. Slight sore throat.
S - definite sore throat, hard to tell if fogginess is nights or illness.
S - less sore throat, feeling a bit better. Went to the wall while daughter at a birthday, but couldn't face it.

71.5 kg.

Shame not to get anything done on my days off, but the cold at least seems to have been mild and short lived (touch wood)

 

[monkoffunk]

M - Night shift. Yoga.
T - Night shift. Simple stuff at home before. Yoga. Recruitment pulls. Push ups. Hammers. One crimp pull up when warm. First one since elbow injury probably more than a year ago. Issue before was volume. Felt ok. Campus moves between edges.
W - Nothing I think
T - Maybe nothing again?
F - 12 hour shift. Elbow physio before work, three sets 7,3 repeaters half crimp. Maybe three crimp pull ups. After work brief Project session, super hot. Really missed the Portland sea air. Few very easy comp style problems. Few board problems with long rests. One of my mega hard 6B projects turned out to be mega easy, despite a note on my phone saying it was the hardest 6B ever. Some moves on a 7A that actually felt like proper board moves, needed some tension to stay on, using holds that almost could been considered small. Progress for sure despite the heat.
S/S - Off with kids, nothing.

Nearly made it out Sunday but wasn’t to be. Next opportunity likely to be 31st, will aim to train reasonably hard this week if elbows allow.

 

[duncan]

Thanks Gav. Just This Side of 30 has a basic hard start if i recall correctly, but once you manage that it should be in the bag.

M - Gentle shoulder conditioning (side planks, handstands), fingerboard pick-ups to 36kg with both hands. Down to Weston.

T - Short swim in Weston Marine Lake. Very windy, the sea was rough, and I was taking on water so stopped early.

W - Uphill Quarry with csl. Warmed up with Judgement Day (Fr6a) and Experience Ron Burgundy (Fr6a+), followed Images of War (E3 Fr6b). Had thought about Uphill Racer but shoulder wasn’t happy.

T - Back to London. Gentle shoulder conditioning/rehab.

F - Fingerboard pickups to 39kg both hands. 10km walking. Gentle shoulder conditioning/rehab. First night of the Proms with The Lad.

S - Gentle shoulder conditioning/rehab. Hip flexibility.

S - Fingerboard pickups to 41kg both hands.

Left finger is 95% better but left shoulder is still a bit sore so had an easy week. Basic finger strength is quite good. Back in Weston again Tuesday-Thursday if anyone is around and needs a belayer.

 

[csl]

July goals: Got a trip to N Wales planned for end of July and I'd like to be in the right headspace for something like Right Wall.
- Stick with the training, including lots of aerocap/arc
- Stop being lazy on weekends, its not hard to get the yoga mat out and do some stretching after childs bedtime/during naps
- 1x day out before Wales - hopefully High Tor, some questy wall climbing is what I need I think.
- Wales at end of month, do something off the lifetime list.

This weeks goal was: Get outside, do some trad routes or sportily bolted sport

Mon: Nothing
Tue: Nothing
Wed: Uphill Quarry. Did a couple of sport routes, Images of War and took a large-ish upside down fall off Uphill Racer before the sun came round - a crucial hold was very slippy, I think I could have brushed it on lead but had left my brush on the floor. In the afternoon I did a few top rope solo laps on the juggy top half of Jimi Hendrix Experience in the sunshine. Uphill is surprisingly good, keen to come back to do Uphill Racer and Jimi Hendrix when its a bit cooler.
Thu: Nothing - bruised arse/scratched back from hitting stuff on the way down the day before so felt a bit stiff
Fri: BlocFit. Projecting a 7C, got in 2 halves. Some other problems then 1 on 1 off on the circuit board. Some shoulder stuff in the gym afterwards
Sat: nothing
Sun: lots of stretching and some pickups with 40kg.

This week goals: 2x wall sessions, lots of vertical crimping. Do some stretching throughout the week rather than one big session on Sundays.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: More adventurous trad if possible - a little bit but felt very timid. Normal trad/sport otherwise - a little bit and was mediocre.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - no. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nowhere near, easy stuff is daunting me. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - struggling to due confidence. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - a tiny bit but still scared. Look after injuries - a little bit, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2 - x1 and should have done more, shoulder rehab x 2 - x1 and should have done more, stretching x 3 - x1 and should have done more.

M - Attempted F7b redpoint without success. 2 practise falls but still put off by stress and fear on lead. Generally feel 2 full grades worse on redpointing than a few years ago. Shoulders and elbow tired and achey after mixed sleep, but not much worse after climbing.

T - Rest. Nothing. Demoralised and lazy.

W - Active rest. HVS, E2. Punting.

T - F6b x 2, E2 x 2. Punting. Elbow a bit sore.

F - Active rest. E2. Punting. Elbow and shoulders a bit sore in cold evening.

S - Rest. Shoulder rehab (bench and OH press), elbow rehab, stretching. Depressed and lazy following anxiety overnight, but at least did something. Elbow and shoulders okay.

S - Active rest. F6b, F6c, failed on F6c. Utterly bleak mood after the latter - after starting the day with positive, relaxed, and enthusiastic vibes. Getting up another F6c just about stopped me quitting. Shoulder / arm doms from pressing.


Rubbish week with an overall trend - after resting more, re-focusing on climbing rather than cleaning, trying to get organised better, adjusting my aspirations well down to a sensible level, etc etc - that my climbing and confidence is still steadily declining.


Next week STG: None.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[oldfella]

Thanks Gav. Just This Side of 30 has a basic hard start if i recall correctly, but once you manage that it should be in the bag.

The humidity was really high and I got not purchase on the slopes. But felt it’d be very different in different conditions.

Hoping to find someone to go with tomorrow afternoon.

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T. Evening session - 1 arm max hangs, plus 30 mins on the board, pressups and levers.
W.
T. Evening session - warm up then 1 hour on the board. Made light work of 2 problems conceived in the last session and that I thought would be hard, not so much!
F.
S.
S. Took the lad swimming in the morning and then a quick bike ride in the afternoon.

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - 531 week 15. Torrid. The barbell was warm! Pull ups.
Wed - BW gymnastic.
Thu - bentover rows, high pulls.
Fri - dumbbells GM, loaded carries.
Sat - push ups, track riding.
Sun - BW gymnastic.

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Not getting out climbing much... Club

M: Routes @ AW - Mostly F6a+ - F6c+, fell off F7a+ again, stupidly forgot the crux beta... Doh!
T: Running in't Peak - 5 hilly miles in the clag over Burbage/Higgar etc. Lovely!!
W: MB @ AW - 2 x 5+, 2 x 6A, 2 x 6A+, 2 x 6B, 1 x 6B+ (then multiple tries on another 6B+'s and 6C's that I didn't do...) Tired!
T: Rest
F: Running in't Peak - Good low level trail run round Shillitoe Woods and Bar Brook with the GF...
S: Routes @ AW - F6a+ - F7a+... Good session with a pure fight to onsight a new F7a+, pumped out of my tiny mind!
S: Running in't Peak - Low level route around Hope with the GF, involved a bit of walking and sightseeing - nice!

Good week of getting outside but not climbing, enjoying the feeling of moving quickly especially when the weather is shitty... Not climbing too badly indoors but need to actually step up and get on some rock soon...

 

[oldfella]

Thanks Gav. Just This Side of 30 has a basic hard start if i recall correctly, but once you manage that it should be in the bag.

Hoping to find someone to go with tomorrow afternoon.

Little update: thanks to Roger & Jack for offering to go climbing. Roger dropped the Onsight but did it next go. Jack flashed it.
The pressure was on me to do it. Especially as this was the purpose of coming out to Colehill.
First tie in I couldn’t work out a solution. Next tie in I tried a few different foot options. As it was hard getting off the ground. It was just like bouldering. I did the move and then finished the route off.

Very pleased. Hardest route I’ve done since elbow surgery in late Feb.

Big thanks to the guys for offering to come out. :icon_beerchug: