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[Sheffield] [Wyming Brook] [7a+ Ish] (Read 7306 times)

jimpopeonarope

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[Sheffield] [Wyming Brook] [7a+ Ish]
March 21, 2022, 09:07:55 pm
A few months ago John Welford mentioned a slab project to me at Wyming brook. It's right next to the road/track and looks like nothing from above, but is a really impressive wall when you peer over.

It's such an obvious feature, John seemed to think it hadn't been done yet but may well have been and slipped the radar.

It's been wet for ages but this morning I climbed the left arete and the center line. You could squeeze in a more direct finish, but what I did felt like the best way to climb the wall.

Does anyone know if it's been done before?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51952742499/

Fiend

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That looks very proper!  :yes:

Bonjoy

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I've seen this. It's a big slab for a boulder, and fairly blank looking. Looks good!

Johnny Brown

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Looks great. Can we have some more specifics on location please? Presuming below the path?

Bonjoy

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It's somewhere near here 53.37165033302072, -1.5930553867963329
On the downhill side of the path/track below the crag on the north bank. The top of the boulder touches the path/track.

Johnny Brown

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Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom. Given the obvious uncertainties regarding electrons, I'm guessing you're spragging a quark? Is 7A+ a massive sandbag?

Fiend

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Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom.
:lol: good stuff guys.

Andy B

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I’ve done the left arête, but didn’t manage the centre. I intended to go back, hence not reporting the arête yet, but my body fell apart in the meantime. It’s a great slab.

jimpopeonarope

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Is 7A+ a massive sandbag?

It's a bit of a guess. I think if anything it could be a little easier as it felt quite height dependent. The first 3/4 are very steady, the difficulty all revolves around the last few moves. I had to do a tricky step to leave the good feet and reach the top, but if you were taller could just reach from the big footholds. The stricter direct line felt hard for me but would be a path if you could reach the good edge of the big footholds. It's all dry at the minute and is worth getting on, there's a good circuit of boulders there now.

'Superbrook' is really dry and moss free at the moment too, for a change!

Bonjoy

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Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom. Given the obvious uncertainties regarding electrons, I'm guessing you're spragging a quark?
Give or take a few Planck lengths

SA Chris

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Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom.

A bit more accurate than giving wibble.creature.goose

cofe

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Nice work. I think I spotted this when biking up the path last week but I didn’t stop for a look. Good to know Superbrook is clean too.

Johnny Brown

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Cofe and I failed to get up this last night. It was a bit warm but we made short work of Superbrook so not too bad nick. A bit scrittly but should settle down. Impressive block.

Seemed like the easiest line was up the left which is more like the arête without using it, once in a high bridge the middle blanks out making a right-hand exit look like the way? I think you'd have to be really tall to lank it though. What did you do Jim?

cofe

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I'd like to say I read it the riot act, and by riot act, I mean it got a bit hard high up and I chickened out as I'm knocking on a bit these days. Impressive bit of rock though.

Bonjoy

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I read it the same criminal justice act. It's safe to say the ruckus wasn't brought, and the rig remained unfired.
Did you try my new highball arete just up the bank? I'll send you a pic. Good 7a+.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2022, 02:33:43 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Typo »

cofe

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No, didn't know about it. Did Superbrook, and I complained about how warm it was.

jimpopeonarope

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What did you do Jim?

I started in the middle and climbed up to that stable bridge position, then reached to the top left from there. I had a few goes at trying to jump for the crimp up and right but wasn't getting anywhere.

mark20

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Repeated it with your 'comp' beta from the Wedge vid this morning. Cool!
Matt Ferrier magicked his way up the direct finish- some foot wizardry to get the gaston in the middle as a sidepull with LH, then up to that sloping crimp via an intermediate pebble, and top. I couldn't touch it
I thought the left arete was a nice problem too.

Will Hunt

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Has Matt learned the secret of levitation but he just makes a big show of pulling on the holds to convince us it's the real deal?

Jacqusie

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Couple of a years ago in first lock down, I stopped by this rock by the trail, propped my bike up and perched atop and almost fell down the other side. It's a big old unit to be sure and a hidden gem. I gave it a bit of clean & was sure that it would be on someone's radar then.

Good effort Andy, Jim and Matt on the lines




Johnny Brown

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What did you do Jim?
i

I started in the middle and climbed up to that stable bridge position, then reached to the top left from there. I had a few goes at trying to jump for the crimp up and right but wasn't getting anywhere.

Thanks dood. With that and the vid did it first go.

Any deets on the foot wizardry Mark? How tall is Matt?

jimpopeonarope

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I went back today and did the direct, its great! Nice work Matt  :2thumbsup:

CapitalistPunter

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Bonjoy

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Aussiegav

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Here’s two highish lines I cleaned up and did with gear at Wyming Brook

Did intend to boulder them but decided to lead them. Not hard but nice to climb. Both have crux move at the top

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyming_brook-889/#saving_buttress


 

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