[jimpopeonarope]

A few months ago John Welford mentioned a slab project to me at Wyming brook. It's right next to the road/track and looks like nothing from above, but is a really impressive wall when you peer over.

It's such an obvious feature, John seemed to think it hadn't been done yet but may well have been and slipped the radar.

It's been wet for ages but this morning I climbed the left arete and the center line. You could squeeze in a more direct finish, but what I did felt like the best way to climb the wall.

Does anyone know if it's been done before?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/156943872@N06/51952742499/

[Fiend]

That looks very proper! 

[Bonjoy]

I've seen this. It's a big slab for a boulder, and fairly blank looking. Looks good!

[Johnny Brown]

Looks great. Can we have some more specifics on location please? Presuming below the path?

[Bonjoy]

It's somewhere near here 53.37165033302072, -1.5930553867963329
On the downhill side of the path/track below the crag on the north bank. The top of the boulder touches the path/track.

[Johnny Brown]

Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom. Given the obvious uncertainties regarding electrons, I'm guessing you're spragging a quark? Is 7A+ a massive sandbag?

[Fiend]

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom.

good stuff guys.

[Andy B]

I’ve done the left arête, but didn’t manage the centre. I intended to go back, hence not reporting the arête yet, but my body fell apart in the meantime. It’s a great slab.

[jimpopeonarope]

Is 7A+ a massive sandbag?

It's a bit of a guess. I think if anything it could be a little easier as it felt quite height dependent. The first 3/4 are very steady, the difficulty all revolves around the last few moves. I had to do a tricky step to leave the good feet and reach the top, but if you were taller could just reach from the big footholds. The stricter direct line felt hard for me but would be a path if you could reach the good edge of the big footholds. It's all dry at the minute and is worth getting on, there's a good circuit of boulders there now.

'Superbrook' is really dry and moss free at the moment too, for a change!

[Bonjoy]

Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom. Given the obvious uncertainties regarding electrons, I'm guessing you're spragging a quark?

Give or take a few Planck lengths

[SA Chris]

Thanks a lot, that's where I guessed.

Curious about the level of precision you've provided though, 14 decimal places of lat long is considerably smaller than an atom.

A bit more accurate than giving wibble.creature.goose

[cofe]

Nice work. I think I spotted this when biking up the path last week but I didn’t stop for a look. Good to know Superbrook is clean too.

[Johnny Brown]

Cofe and I failed to get up this last night. It was a bit warm but we made short work of Superbrook so not too bad nick. A bit scrittly but should settle down. Impressive block.

Seemed like the easiest line was up the left which is more like the arête without using it, once in a high bridge the middle blanks out making a right-hand exit look like the way? I think you'd have to be really tall to lank it though. What did you do Jim?

[cofe]

I'd like to say I read it the riot act, and by riot act, I mean it got a bit hard high up and I chickened out as I'm knocking on a bit these days. Impressive bit of rock though.

[Bonjoy]

I read it the same criminal justice act. It's safe to say the ruckus wasn't brought, and the rig remained unfired.
Did you try my new highball arete just up the bank? I'll send you a pic. Good 7a+.

[cofe]

No, didn't know about it. Did Superbrook, and I complained about how warm it was.

[jimpopeonarope]

What did you do Jim?

I started in the middle and climbed up to that stable bridge position, then reached to the top left from there. I had a few goes at trying to jump for the crimp up and right but wasn't getting anywhere.

[mark20]

Repeated it with your 'comp' beta from the Wedge vid this morning. Cool!
Matt Ferrier magicked his way up the direct finish- some foot wizardry to get the gaston in the middle as a sidepull with LH, then up to that sloping crimp via an intermediate pebble, and top. I couldn't touch it
I thought the left arete was a nice problem too.

[Will Hunt]

Has Matt learned the secret of levitation but he just makes a big show of pulling on the holds to convince us it's the real deal?

[Jacqusie]

Couple of a years ago in first lock down, I stopped by this rock by the trail, propped my bike up and perched atop and almost fell down the other side. It's a big old unit to be sure and a hidden gem. I gave it a bit of clean & was sure that it would be on someone's radar then.

Good effort Andy, Jim and Matt on the lines

[Johnny Brown]

What did you do Jim?

i

I started in the middle and climbed up to that stable bridge position, then reached to the top left from there. I had a few goes at trying to jump for the crimp up and right but wasn't getting anywhere.

Thanks dood. With that and the vid did it first go.

Any deets on the foot wizardry Mark? How tall is Matt?

[jimpopeonarope]

I went back today and did the direct, its great! Nice work Matt 

[CapitalistPunter]

a

[Bonjoy]

b

[Aussiegav]

Here’s two highish lines I cleaned up and did with gear at Wyming Brook

Did intend to boulder them but decided to lead them. Not hard but nice to climb. Both have crux move at the top

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyming_brook-889/#saving_buttress

[mark20]

Any deets on the foot wizardry Mark? How tall is Matt?

He's quite short.
From the bridged position in the middle, RH to small sidepull above the good crimp, LH thumb pressing something, LF at the top of the flake thing where RF is, then really high step for RF to vague smeary spike (I couldn't do this at all). Press LH out to get stood on the RF, and LF up to a pebble. LH to the big sidepull. RH high crimp (if you can reach- Matt used a small pebble) weight LF and get RF on the good crimp and reach top.

Full video on my OnlyFans

[BAndy]

Did you try my new highball arete just up the bank? I'll send you a pic. Good 7a+.

Is this the arete on the bit of rock right of Dumbo's Ringpiece/The Man In The Woods? I tried it today and thought it was (a) excellent and (b) hard/reachy. It took me a while to get to the crimp rail and I promptly fell off going for the sidepull below the break. Definitely one to go back for.

[BAndy]

Did you try my new highball arete just up the bank? I'll send you a pic. Good 7a+.

I also meant to ask how you started it. I was trying it fully on the right side starting with my right hand in a small pocket. There was chalk on a left-hand start.

[Bonjoy]

Yeah, that's the one. Cheers.
I started up the arete, using some holds round left to reach a thin crimpy break on the arete, then up to the crimps on the front face with rh and then go for the sidepull. There's a possible line up the wall in the gully from these start holds (did the moves on a rope) but it's harder than going up the arete, so the sequence I used seemed the line of least resistance to me. The start you were trying (which is the start of Ned's 7c prob up the wall) would make a good alternative start to the arete. I expect it might push the grade up a notch.

[BAndy]

I tried your start at the end and got to the crimps on the face but had already run out of skin. The wall without the arete looks very hard!

Has something been done on the arete of the overhanging block to the left? UKC has this logged through the middle but the arete is cleaner than in the photo.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyming_brook-889/to_pull_or_not_to_pull-575097

[Bonjoy]

The wall takes the sidepull as a gaston. I think the top holds might need recleaning.
Nothing other than that prob on UKC. Hard proj.

[highrepute]

Any deets on the foot wizardry Mark? How tall is Matt?

He's quite short.
From the bridged position in the middle, RH to small sidepull above the good crimp, LH thumb pressing something, LF at the top of the flake thing where RF is, then really high step for RF to vague smeary spike (I couldn't do this at all). Press LH out to get stood on the RF, and LF up to a pebble. LH to the big sidepull. RH high crimp (if you can reach- Matt used a small pebble) weight LF and get RF on the good crimp and reach top.

Full video on my OnlyFans

I repeated this when it was a bit cooler. Meant to post here for beta. I couldn't do it the way Matt did but figured out this more manageable way, for me.

[Aussiegav]

UKC has this logged through the middle but the arete is cleaner than in the photo.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyming_brook-889/to_pull_or_not_to_pull-575097

This is my problem. I tried to climb it without the obvious block, but it was too hard for. So I looked at this line and cleaned it then sent it.
It’s easy but lots of fun. You can find on YouTube

[Aussiegav]

Yeah, that's the one. Cheers.
I started up the arete, using some holds round left to reach a thin crimpy break on the arete, then up to the crimps on the front face with rh and then go for the sidepull. There's a possible line up the wall in the gully from these start holds (did the moves on a rope) but it's harder than going up the arete, so the sequence I used seemed the line of least resistance to me. The start you were trying (which is the start of Ned's 7c prob up the wall) would make a good alternative start to the arete. I expect it might push the grade up a notch.

I cleaned up that section of rock during March/April 2020 then realised how hard it’d be.
I did manage to do the sit start up to the 2 finger pocket then traversed out left to the arête. The original plan was then to continue up the arête using a crimp edge on the right face as well. Then gaining the high break. Then over the top.

I tried the arête on its own but the mid section felt desperate & the block below provided some worry even with a pad on it.
The slab in gully was done on a fixed line, but I never bothered going back to it. Really dirty & damp.

A long while later, Jim Pope then showed me a clip of Ned cruising directly up the face. 

In regards to another topic- I spent ages cleaning these lines. 2 sessions just digging out the top out, a bout 3 days of scrubbing away the dirt & moss on abseil armed with spray water bottles and brushes . More effort than routes that I’ve bolted.

But I’ve always known that someone else could do it before me. I have always accepted this risk as it’s normal ethics in cleaning up boulder problems.

Personally, while I did not complete the line as I had dreamed, I enjoyed my time cleaning.
So seeing & hearing about others doing it is great. 

Nice one Bonjoy & Ned.
Bonjoy - have you got footage of your send, I’d be keen to see how it eventually went.