Yeah, that's the one. Cheers.
I started up the arete, using some holds round left to reach a thin crimpy break on the arete, then up to the crimps on the front face with rh and then go for the sidepull. There's a possible line up the wall in the gully from these start holds (did the moves on a rope) but it's harder than going up the arete, so the sequence I used seemed the line of least resistance to me. The start you were trying (which is the start of Ned's 7c prob up the wall) would make a good alternative start to the arete. I expect it might push the grade up a notch.
I cleaned up that section of rock during March/April 2020 then realised how hard it’d be.
I did manage to do the sit start up to the 2 finger pocket then traversed out left to the arête. The original plan was then to continue up the arête using a crimp edge on the right face as well. Then gaining the high break. Then over the top.
I tried the arête on its own but the mid section felt desperate & the block below provided some worry even with a pad on it.
The slab in gully was done on a fixed line, but I never bothered going back to it. Really dirty & damp.
A long while later, Jim Pope then showed me a clip of Ned cruising directly up the face.
In regards to another topic- I spent ages cleaning these lines. 2 sessions just digging out the top out, a bout 3 days of scrubbing away the dirt & moss on abseil armed with spray water bottles and brushes . More effort than routes that I’ve bolted.
But I’ve always known that someone else could do it before me. I have always accepted this risk as it’s normal ethics in cleaning up boulder problems.
Personally, while I did not complete the line as I had dreamed, I enjoyed my time cleaning.
So seeing & hearing about others doing it is great.
Nice one Bonjoy & Ned.
Bonjoy - have you got footage of your send, I’d be keen to see how it eventually went.
