[Fiend]

You know the drill. Post your best of's for the recent year.

E.g. Top 3 boulder problems UK, Top 3 boulder problems abroad, Top 3 sport routes, Top 3 indoor parkour-style problems, Top 3 hangs on a BM2K small pocket etc etc

Remember it's all about the grade so no facetious nonsense about easy bumbles you're pretending to like so you don't look elitist. Screw that. Boast about big numbers only.

Yes it's a few days early, so feel free to delay any replies until after the current spell of mint connies.

Previous years:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013
Best of 2014
Best of 2015
Best of 2016
Best of 2017
Best of 2018

[Fiend]

Welsh highball Bloque:
Blood Scream, Rhinnogs - This would be a sought after classic even in Font.
Tempest, Tan Y Grisiau - As would this. The best rock in Snowdonia?
Inkerman, Craig Penniel - Easy but committing cranking, cool boulder, great landing, lovely view.

Welsh normal Bloque:
Frostbite, Crafnant - As good as gritstone slabs get.
Riley's Arete, Crafnant - As good as gritstone slopey prow lips get
Supercrack, Beddgelert - Another beautiful line with great burling

Grit Bloque:
Beauty, Stanage - Almost as good as Frostbite. Classic extreme walking.
The Balls Test, Baslow - A hidden gem as good as any balancy grit arete.
Boris Or Bust, Brimham - Worryingly named and excitingly committing razorblade

Elsewhere Bloque:
Half-Life, Garheugh Port - As good as ANY slabs get. Beautiful rock, location, height and delicacy

Grit:
The Egg, Bamford - The usual Fiend "off-piste" obsession, lots of gear faff and cool techy climbing.
I'm Back, Rivelin - Inspired by the old Dawes photo. Chuffed to work this one out.
Old Fogey, Ramshaw - Brilliant all round, classic grit committment with good "benightment" possibility.

Lime:
Dies Irae, Stoney - The good climbing starts at the bottom and continues to the very top.
Dewdrop, Wolfscote Dale - Unusually steady, fair, and reliable for Peak Lime. Go for it.
Fever Dream, Wolfscote Dale - Horrendous start, great remainder, more like balancy quarried grit.

Lime sport:
Afloat In The Moat, Moat Buttress - Cool spot and vibes despite the crowds, really good climb.
Scratch Race, Plum Buttress - Bouldery moves and a great position.
Dreamcatcher, Stoney - Really surprisingly good for mid-grade lime. Lots of mini-cruxes escalating to the finish.

Redpointing Wankery:
Good Times Emporium, Lorry Park Quarry - Great value - 5 cruxes including a cool spooky teetery middle.
Super Dupont, Chapel Head - Good cranking and hands-off rests.
Don't Look Back, Moving Buttress - Genuinely nice climbing and a fine position.

Near Wales:
The Mangler, Helsby - Lovely. Chuffed with this one as I had to hang around and reassess mid-way and still kept going.
Pirates Of Pen Trwyn, Pen Trwyn - Fierce! Two mono moves and a lot of cranking. Satisfying.
Bananas And Coffee, Devils Gorge - Steady! Fun varied climbing with an aesthetic finish.

Proper Wales:
Samurai Groove, Carreg Hyll Drem - Absolutely super mini-adventure, as wild as it looks.
Rapture Of The Deep, Red Wall - Just brilliant, methodical and mad Type 1 fun to put a smile on my face.
Natalie, Penlas Rock - A similar ethos, classic ledge shuffling.

Top successes:
Moving to Manchester - just a relief
Mostly healing double tennis elbow - not bad for a fat weak undisciplined oaf
Great mini-season bouldering/exploring in Wales - saving grace of a year of uber-punterage

Top spankings:
Mostly having the most mediocre trad season since 2012 - dire, didn't tackle most inspirations.
Not getting my fitness back after tennis elbows - contributed to the above. Heavy and weak as ever.
Wank days failing on DNA and backing off Alec Trench - shit, confidence-knocking days.
STILL ill with broken digestion - shit on a stick, still inhibiting climbing and self.
The FUCKING WEATHER this autumn/winter - <insert torrent of swearing here>

Christ what a pile of waffle. Fuck that.

Top 3 anything:
2 seconds on BM 6mm edges - a novelty gimmick of skin conditions and pulp pain, but amusing enough.
20 seconds on BM2K small edges - pretty decent for me especially since a year ago I couldn't have done 2 seconds without my tennis elbows exploding.
Un-specificed on LH BM2K 30' sloper, RH small edge - didn't time it but was chatting to a mate at the time and felt quite comfy, I like doing asymmetric grips.

[36chambers]

Cheers for kicking it off Fiend, looking forward to reading about the crushing (and the spankings).

All bouldering and no grades because I'm lazy grades aren't important to me...

top 3 grit:
The Stone Hand - Scout Crag. When the beta is to cut loose 3 times it must be a good problem. Sketchy mantle is the icing on the cake.   
Great White - Curbar. Wasn’t really on my radar, but we ended up at the crag and a local mentioned he was off to try it. Great grit climbing and a big surprise to actually stick the top. Sent on my 9th "last go".
Bulbhaul - Almscliff. Palmstrong's shorty beta makes the climbing on this brilliant. Nice one to piss around on whilst the rest of Yorkshire was damp.

top 3 limestone:
Primitive Notion - Kilnsey. Main aim of the year and ended up being a smooth incremental process spread over 4 sessions. Big psyche.
Tsunami - Rubicon. Years ago the stand version shut me down, so it was sweet to get this done (and stick the finish second time I got there). Love the climbing on this.
Hulk - Crag X. Same day as tsunami so was already buzzing from that. After many attempts, I stuck the first move and then somehow fell my way to the top, having not done the other moves before. A once in a blue moon climbing moment. So psyched I gave Footwork a big hug afterwards...

top 3 other:
Preparation H - Hepburn. Great fun taking big lobs off this whilst the GF was doing the same on Northern Soul. Inched my way upwards until I eventually dragged myself over the top. 3 star process.
Carnage - Hartland Quay. Cool moves, cool rock, cool place.
Kyloe In - Nesscliffe. Enjoyed figuring this one out with a good team, a sketchy top out is always fun too.

Top 3 abroad:
Human Energy, When The Day Breaks, The Golden Rail - Rocklands. There are some pretty sweet problems down there.

Top 5 new crags/destinations
Churnett
Crag X
Rocklands
Hartland Quay/Tintagel
Nesscliffe

Top Spankings
Rocklands. Great trip, but came back with a sprained knee and two bad finger injuries

[remus]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Bens Roof Extension, Raven Tor. This was a nice consolation prize after puntering off the top of my project in Kalymnos after 2 weeks of attempts. Felt a bit masochistic going there in the dark every week while it was shitting it down with rain but at least it was consistently dry (unlike pretty much everything else in the UK this winter).

Assorted Nudas Tartan Link ups. Had some really fun sessions here going round in circles.

Tarantula, Nudas Tartan. Had a few failed sessions on this in previous years so nice to come back and get it done.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Currently on a last minute font trip which also happens to be my one and only foreign bouldering excursion this year, so a few choice problems from the last 2 days:

La Coquille (+ assis), Franchard Hautes-Plaines
Langouste Royale, Bas Cuvier
Little Karma, Franchard Isatis. Struggled with the first move on previous trips, cool to womble up it this time.

Top four DWS UK

Mark of the Beast. Fell off the top a few times before doing it which really added to the experience. Latching the top has got to be up there with the most satisfying moves out there.
Assorted easier stuff above the pink block, Berry head. No idea why I hadn't been on these before as they're all ace. Little bit high for that added spice but always some good holds to aim for.
Magical Mystery Tour parts 2 and 3, Berry Head. Very worthwhile extension to part 1 (the bit that everyone does). Part 3 was especially good.
Waiting for Charlie, Long Quarry Point. Got committed above probably-ok-but-doesnt-look-very-deep water because I got bored of waiting for the tide. Good to pull it out of the bag. Reminiscent of spicy trad days.

Top three sport routes UK

Bit of a dearth of UK sport for me this year.

Sunset Brown, Giggleswick.
New Dawn, Malham. What a friggin ace route! And cool to have a little dabble on Malham, should really pull my finger out and get back there more often.
Grand Canyon, Devils Gorge. Great day at a new to me crag, topped off by flashing this. A shame the conditions are a bit fickle.

Top route abroad (any genre)

The Craic, Kalymnos. Cool route, but mostly memorable as my gf did it for her first 7b+. Proud boyfriend!

Top three new routes/problems put up

I wish.

Top Spankings

Rendez with Platon, Kalymnos. 2 weeks of plugging away, stuck the redpoint crux then fell off the last droppable move. Id go on about the process etc. but I really fucking wanted to do it and didn't. Got another trip planned in April but not sure I can face going up it again.
Pedigree Chum, cheedale. The full link was never really on the cards but had some fun sessions working out the sections. Maybe in 10 years time.
Adrenochrome, Lulworth. Half hearted attempts that never really came to anything. Need to try harder if Im ever going to get up it.

[Duma]

Top boulder problems, UK

Not loads this year, but couple of trips to the Churnet in the spring gave some fun stuff, in particular:
The Mentalist 7C, very not my style, so really satisfying, esp as I'd tried it a fair bit a couple of years before and not made much headway.
Spellbound 7A+, amazing line jutting out above the valley, had wanted to do this ever since seeing the guide.
Amazing Tree Bulge 6A, for the tree rather than the problem tbh, it really is amazing!
Simple Simon and Bizarre get honorary mentions just as they'd been on the list for so long.

Top boulder problems, abroad

Obvs all from Rocklands in June - despite the carbon guilt of the flights, and the uncomfortable inequalities of SA, this is still the greatest place I've bouldered by a distance. The quality of rock, lines and movement, and the sheer amount of it is unparalleled in my experience. Perfect weather too which is great for a Western European on holiday.
Prob most of what I did would get onto my UK list, but a few that stick in the memory:
Sublime 6C+, not the most unique movement but climbs perfectly, good line, in a lovely spot and with another world class line at the same grade a few metres away.
Kung Fu Hustle 7C, for the 3Dness of the climbing, more like sport in a tufa infested cave than bouldering.
Kiesl 7A, roofy fun to an ace move to the eponymous pebble to an easy finish up a glorious face.
Alpha's Stone Free 4, amazing little slab, not many of these in Rocklands, felt more like 6a to me but loads of fun working it out.
Golden Wave 6A, not the best climbing but a feature you just can't ignore!
Throw Yourself Away 7C+, Rocklands classic so partly for that, but also the start move is so gloriously unlikely it made me laugh every time I did it.
The Fin 7A, for the terrifying cutloose!
Caroline 7C+ and Sunset Arete 7C, these prob wouldn't have made the list separately just for the climbing but I did them in the same session and they both meant a lot as uber classics, and the process on both was really enjoyable, Caroline really chilled just me and one other (lovely) guy working it out bit by bit, and then Sunset Arete the full Rocklands pad party experience, l generally run a mile from this sort of thing but the genuine enthusiasm and shared joy in each success (think 5 or 6 people did it while I was there) was a great thing to be part of and thawed my miserable British heart a little. Cheetham would have fucking hated it.
Hellfire 8A, tbh more 7C+, and not the greatest problem, but a great line, couple of lovely moves on it, and done in a session, the last session of the trip. So a great and unexpected tick to end what'll probably be my last trip here while I can still climb these grades .

Top DWS UK

Had a fun day at Lydstep over the Aug BH:
Restraint of Beasts 6b+ S1, was ace, though the traverse in felt a lot harder than 6b+ and scarier than S1! The high swell may have necessitated a higher line than usual which may explain. Once on the route though it's brilliant and safe.

Top sport routes

Again not loads this year, first half was focused on training for SA and then my elbow blew up. Though I was pleased with:
Right Hand Man 8a, by far the hardest I've had to work for a route in Cheddar, and actually a pretty decent one.
Had a good weekend in Dinbren too, Climb High 7a (great rock) and The Bandits 7b+ prob the stand outs.

Top new routes/problems put up

Actually added a couple of things to the Rhino boulder at Hartland, though they're probably "previously unrecorded" rather than new tbh. Also neither is that great, but they both do use a truly glorious starting hold.

Top Spankings

My elbow. Golfers appeared a week or two before the Rocklands trip in June, I ignored it and had a great trip, but it pretty much wrote off the rest of the year performance wise. Only really saw improvement from mid Oct and have gradually been ramping it up over the last two months but still a way off strength wise and it's not quite better.

[turnipturned]

Pretty poor year for me in terms of performance, however I did do some great bits of climbing:

Top 5 Boulder Uk

Stellar Dweller (8A+), Sampson Stones- big walk, great line and climbing.

Caseg groove sit (8A), Caseg boulder- lovely holds

Where the wild things are sit (8A), Lower Tossin- not sure I have ever been so cold climbing, absolutely stunning.

Manou (7C), N Wales- cracker, good line and pretty scary.

Jerry Problem (7C+), Sheep Pen- not for the line, just the fact about 5 years ago I couldnt pull off the ground, did it in a few goes

Top 5 boulders aboard

Ubuntu (8B), rocklands- what a line, scary too. Great to climb and battle with b4ree just like the good old days

I portici (8A+), Switzerland- great problem, always wanted to climb it but never knew where it was... cheers Mr Stephens.

Great Shark Hunt (8A+/B), Chironico- merely because I set a replica and did it quick (for me).

Strategic balance (8A), Rocklands- nice to do something slightly technical in a world of power snatching

Reve de Mario (8A), Switzerland- first 8A is Swiss- FRED

Top 3 boulder FA’s

In the heart of darkness, Brimham- thought this was flipping great and enjoyed cleaning it over a couple of evenings

Bilberry buldge, Brimham- apparently this has been done before at 7A+, which it defo is not. Anyway great problem and requires a lot of cleaning.

End Game, Kilnsey- hardest link up at K, thought it was 8B+ but new beta might have dropped it down a grade.

Top 3 routes UK

Urgent Action (8a+), Kilnsey - first of the three

Supercool (8a+), Gordale- second of the three. Dunning had to rescue me first go up hahaha

A smarter martyr (8b)- Kilnsey- quite cool.

Trad routes

Marrowbone Jelly E7- fun, scary and probably did it wrong.

Pretty much the only reason I went sport climbing was to get fit enough for some lakes trad routes, never materialised.

Top spankings

Monkey Wedding- with my hand on the final hold. Absolutely gutted. Quite a bit of pressure going out there knowing I might not get a chance to return again (expecting our first shortly). Came so so close and was pretty consistent on it and just punted. Bit pathetic as it’s just a boulder but it really effected me and struggling to get my flow back.

Generally adapting to sport climbing, I suck on a rope.

[T_B]

Slim pickings in 2019...

Boulder UK

Jonboy’s 7B at Baslow left of Hot Ziggerty. End of August after-work windy conditions with Dave and Cofe. A knacky crux, then fluttery top out. Like the good ole days of highballing where it’s as much in your head (and following on the coat tails of your mate) as your crimp. It’d gone dark by the time I got up there, so climbing by headtorch added extra spice. I really recommend this problem, it’s a brilliant addition.

Dry wit in a wet country 7a – did this first go on my birthday back in January as part of a fun circuit in great conditions.

Cave Problem Sit Start – The Tor. My only UK Font 7c this year, but it’s at the Tor and I don’t find the stand easy. Consolation prize for not doing Under the Greenwood Tree (which I tried twice and felt like I could do, but it was pretty ming on one of those attempts).

Boulder Abroad

Etrave a Sucre 7b+ – Beauvais. I. Love. This. Problem. Tried it BITD and got up to the last hard move last year (featured in my Top Spankings). This year I felt weaker on the start, but conditions were cooler and I eventually started to be able to get my left foot up. The go I did it was so touch and go… creeping my left toe up onto the foothold, catching the peeling edge of the boot rubber on the rock as I desperately compressed the left-hand crimp and right-hand pinch of loveliness.

Le Merou 7a+ – Long Boyau. Failed on this last year with wack beta. This time used the heel. Another classic Font prow and worth seeking out if you’re at nearby Mont Aigu.

Le Sot-l'y-Laisse 7a+ - Long Rocher. Last day in the forest doing many of the brilliant red circuit problems interspersed with gems such as this (Cracoucass 7a and La Boullasse 7a+ are also excellent). A bit scary with a great sloper move.

Sport UK

The Wimp 7c. Couldn’t match the crimp on The Sissy. And that was it for UK sport!

Sport abroad

Alpendurst – last day of work in the Alps doing some filming. A lovely 13-pitch route on the Jegihorn, Saas Grund.

Bidochons News 7b – Scaffarels. Limestone sport crag near Annot. Early morning session, bouldery pitch.

Le Gros Niqueur de l'extrême 7c – Also at Scaffarels. Quick redpoint, nice n soft.

Trad

Perrons Traverse. Mega Alpine rock ridge. Perfect day out.

Breithorn Half Traverse. Consolation for not going on the Matterhorn due to rockfall.

Races

Trigger – Marsden to Edale 40Km. Back in January. Really windy (60mph at Snake Pass). Known as the ultimate fell race for those not very good at running! I did a lot of preparation in terms of recces and it paid off. Nailed all the nav/best lines and fought through some pretty foul weather to place higher than I expected. A very memorable day.

Lakeland Five Passes Ultra – 51Km/2600m. Since I got into running I wanted to do an ‘Ultra’. This is a really nice course, with a mix of decent paths, bridleways and some more ‘technical’ ground. I paced it well, holding back until half way when we reached the higher fells, then started to ‘race’. The best moment was descending 40Km in to Kirkstone Pass as the clouds parted, feeling strong and realising I was going to get round.

Fell ‘n’ back 17Km/530m. Off the back of consistent running all year, I managed to hold a pace that I wasn’t sure I could hold. Totally confident and ‘in the zone’ passing people on the technical descents in biblically wet conditions. My best result all year really, placing well up the first half of the field.

Spankings

Megalithe at St Germain in Font. A couple of sessions this summer. Not sure how many sessions I’ve had on this now, but I think I’ve given up. Tickled the pocket, but not really nearly held it. On paper it’s my bag, but there’s a reason it’s 7c+ I guess.

Salomon Ubaye Trail. 40Km mountain race in Provence in August. I knew it was going to be hot but the combination of running on a southerly aspect at noon, at 2600m was debilitating #sufferfest

[kingholmesy]

Didn’t get much done in 2019, but here goes ...

Bouldering

Evening Song (7B+) (Carn Brea).  Brilliant, unlikely moves, the hardest thing I’ve done, and only 15 minutes from my house - great stuff.

Snoopy (7A+) (Carn Brea). Also deserves a mention.

Trad

Kagutsuchi (E7, 6b) (Bosigran Ridge). A cool little headpoint as my first route of the year.

Kafoozalem (E3, 6a) (Bosigran). This packs so much climbing in for a single pitch, with interest sustained from start to finish.

Reflections (E4, 6a) (Pentire). Overlooked in favour of its more famous neighbours, but deserves more attention.

Feed Me To The Birds (E6, 6b) (Predannack Head).  Probably only 1 star, but satisfying to do the first ascent of an obvious unclimbed line.

DWS

Lovelocked (E4 / 6c+ ish) (Predannack Head). Had a great after work session on the Lizard, the highlight of which was climbing this straight after Danny had done the first ascent.

Abroad Not in Devon or Cornwall

A brilliant day at Crookrise highballing / soloing Massive Attack, Small Brown and all the other stuff on that buttress.

Top spanking

Breaking my arm falling off Demolition at Sennen in March.

Best epic

Declining helicopter rescue while retreating from attempting a new route at Willapark.

 

[kingholmesy]

Best epic

Declining helicopter rescue while retreating from attempting a new route at Willapark.

This probably requires a bit more explanation.

For those that have bouldered at Tintagel, Willapark is the huge tottering cliff that you can see on the far side of the bay. For those who’ve not been, it may give some idea to say that Mick Fowler has visited and done routes here, but they skirt around the edges and the highest section of the cliff remains unclimbed.

Determined to breach it ground up, my friend Lee had made two previous attempts on the main cliff, each time getting a bit higher before retreating by abseil. I agreed to join him for his third attempt.

Approach is down 100+ metres of steep grass bank from the coastal footpath, then a boulder hop across the tidal bay, before scrambling up 7 or 8 metres to ledges below our intended line.

Lee led first, a huge 50 metre pitch on which the gear was spaced but just about adequate. Sections of loose rock were interspersed with sections of excellent climbing.

I led through, initially taking a rising traverse line rightwards on good rock to reach a wide crack, which I climbed upwards to reach a niche and a bunch of tat marking Lee’s previous high point.  From here I continued up, hammering in a warthog into talcy rock to reach undercuts and large cams. Above this the climbing got harder, the rock was poor and there was no more gear for 6 or 7 metres. At one point I eyed a dubious jug and decided that I had no choice but to pull on it as the pump started to rise. It held as I heaved past it, only for it to disintegrate and tumble into the sea when I then stood on it. This wall terminated at a huge undercut and poor cams, from where I had to make more hard moves to pull round rightwards onto a small ledge of loose rock.

I built a belay here as best I could, although all I managed to get in was a half buried warthog and two questionable pegs. I urged Lee not to fall off as he seconded the pitch. Upon reaching me he put his greater experience to good use, chipping out two more peg placements, with life then feeling much better.

Above us was another five metres of unprotected climbing on poor rock, leading to below the lip of a huge hanging slab that when tracing our proposed route from the ground we had hoped to cross. With no idea of the difficulties above the lip and with it now nearing 8pm, we decided to retreat.

We made a first abseil to the tat at Lee’s previous high point, pulled the ropes and abbed again to the starting ledges. However, by now the tide had come in and it was impossible to get back across the beach. We decided that we would simply have to wait for the tide to go back out in a couple of hours.

This would have been fine, but after sitting there for a while we spotted several high vis jackets starting to appear on the coast path opposite us. We guessed that some well intention passerby had called the coastguard, and learned later that someone thought we were shouting for help (we weren’t - I suspect this was just us shouting to each other when the abseil was free).   The coastguards were several hundred metres away though and there was no way of communicating with them so we had no choice but to sit tight. Lee did however have signal on his mobile, although only 4% battery. Before it ran out I managed to call my dad and told him to call the coastguard to say we were fine. Unfortunately I later found out that although he spoke to them, the coastguard said it was their policy not to call off a rescue until they had made contact directly with the persons concerned.

Anyway, 45 minutes or so passed and then a helicopter appeared. We tried to wave it away, but it was impossible to be heard over the din of the rotor blades. Instead after a long time hovering around, spraying us with sea water from the intense downdraught and causing loose rocks to come showering down on us from the cliff, they eventually lowered a winchman down to us.

When we politely explained that we were fine and didn’t need rescuing, he was understandably not best pleased, asking “well what the fuck am I doing here then?” Incredulously he asked again whether we were certain that we didn’t want winching up. I was certainly tempted by this point, but Lee was adamant that he didn’t want to be rescued and I couldn’t leave him by himself. I was also mindful that my car keys and rucksack etc were at the other side of the bay and my car a short distance away, whereas I suspected we would be dropped by the helicopter at its base at the other end of Cornwall.

Once the helicopter had departed I did wonder if we had made the right decision, but after another half an hour or so the tide had receded sufficiently for us to make a final short abseil to the beach and make our escape, with me arriving home after midnight to a most displeased wife.

I’m not sure what the lesson is to be learned from this. I feel guilty for wasting the coastguards’ time and resources, and for putting the crew in a potentially dangerous situation. However, ultimately we were safe, we didn’t need rescuing and we tried to get this message to them. I think all we could maybe have done differently was to call them direct, but with little battery left calling my dad (himself a climber in his younger days) seemed like the best thing to do.

The only other question I have for myself is whether I’ll go back for another attempt at the line next year?

[ashtond6]

amazing story!

[Duma]

I've often looked over at that cliff and wondered at quite how deranged you'd have to be to attempt to climb it...

[Will Hunt]

This is from a Canadian website but it's probably an internationally recognised signal in case you need to send them away again.

[tomtom]

Will, apparently this is also the internationally accepted gesture set for ‘no thanks’ 😃



Kingholmsey- I sympathise - having been in one chopper rescue scenario the downdraft makes it near impossible to do anything when they are close...  Except cower and cover your face etc..

(Please note smiley 😊)

[kingholmesy]

Thanks Will, that’s useful. We did wonder if there was this type of symbol, although I honestly don’t think they would have left anyway. From their perspective all they knew was that there were two climbers seemingly stranded at the bottom of a cliff in the dark, cut off by the sea with a heavy swell running.  And as TT says, the downdraught and din was quite incredible.

Duma - so now you know. Not very, although the climbing is quite “adventurous”. 

[Wil]

Top 3 Trad

Most of my climbing was trad this year, so a difficult choice!

Black Magic at Pentire. Easily the best route and performance of the year for me. Went down intending to do Darkinbad, but couldn't figure out the start and thought I might break my legs if I went for it. There was no chalk on the cliff, we'd already done Eroica to warm up. I thought I'd "have a look" at Black Magic, but I know a couple of people who I consider to be better than me who've fallen off/not finished it. I figured I could climb into the finish of Darkinbad if nothing else to make a better protected pitch. I scoped out the line stood back from the cliff, but I didn't actually read the description and had no idea how runout it was higher up. By that point I was committed anyway and all of the tiny wires slotted in well enough that I just kept moving. I had a long pause at the top of the groove, desperate not to fuck it up at that point and pacing back and forth swapping feet. I eventually committed to one of the options and made a tenuous step through, drawing on all of those off balance finishes to a boulder problem at the wall. What a ride, I'd emptied my rack into the face and been in that proud bubble of determined concentration for longer than I've managed in a while.

Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth, Huntsman's Leap. On the list for years, and always conveniently occupied when I wanted to try it. Even though it's got a reputation for being soft the idea of it had made it a big deal in my mind. It felt pretty straightforward though and it was good to feel I climbed it in control.

Heaven's Door, Stackpole. That second pitch is just lovely, feels really out there for an E3, but everything you need comes to hand when you need it. I was pretty intimidated by this despite good form this summer, I think I'd had a few weeks off before doing it.

Top 3 Sport

Didn't do a lot of sport this year, one trip to Spain and odd days here and there.

I Walk the Line, Blacknor. I found the moves to and from the big flattie very satisfying.

Nightglue, Pen Trwyn. I got spanked by this when "hill fit" but not "sport fit" a few years ago.

Si vas niquel fas tard, Sirunella Central. Got a bit of a spanking from this, mate got a good "elbows up" picture of me on a failed attempt. Exposed some weaknesses, but I got it in the end, including one heartbreaking fall from the final jug.

Top 3 DWS

Did the Magical Mystery Tour and Rainbow Bridge (both parts, fell off the crux). What a great day!

Top Spankings

Oh dear, oh dear. I was pleased to be uninhibited with getting on stuff, but I fucked up a fair few routes this year!

Right Wall. NNFN! Messed up the gear, missed an important runner and couldn't commit. Was going well though, one for this year.

Barbarella. Tried this over a couple of weekends and got totally shut down by the crux. I think a lack of sport power was to blame.

The Axe. Stupidly listened to my mate that this would be a good warm up. A pretty chilly and misty day and enormous numbers fo blackflies about, a deservedly unpleasant belay for him and a spanking for me! Got to the top at least, but I got flash pumped on the traverse after the initial overhang when I couldn't find any gear and struggled to commit to the next move.

[jwi]

Haven't done enough good routes for a top three of anything, so I collated everything to

Top three climbing memories of 2019:

1) Climbing "No war, more love" at Super manjoc. Twenty attempts this spring. Probably more than twenty attempts during autumn. Fell at least three times on every move from the penultimate to the last bolt on link. Fell seven times on last hard move before doing it. Most tries I have had on a route since I sieged Spacecowboy in Niemisel, some 18 years ago.

2) La fête des nerfs in Verdon.
I had three hangs, two that were unfortunate and more due to circumstances, one that served me right on the bulge on pitch 7. Extremely sustained climbing. The 10m 5c pitch is easy, the rest is not. We were lucky enough to be the first to climb this after sustained rain, so the route was completely free of chalk. Even though I was prepared for the climbing to be harder for me than the grades would imply I was surprised how hard it actually was. OTOH, I expected the climbing to be runout, but it wasn't – one extra bolt on the last pitch would make it just perfect. We climbed the route in just under eight hours, which I feel is decent. Teams climbing this in much less than six hours are either both monsters, pulls on draws or have skipped the extremely time-consuming 50m slab that you have to do an extra rap down to start (we spend more than 2h on this pitch alone!).

3) Discovering the new-ish secret crag ?? near Ainsa. Long steep limestone routes of the kind you only seem to find around the Mediterranean basin. Some of the best high sevens I have ever done.

[moose]

Boulder - UK
Turbulence (7b+/c, Woodwell O'ert Road)
Mono-tastic. Only tried because I could not make any progress on a couple of 7a+s. Keen to return and get back to work on Butternut Squash.
Guliver's Travels (7b+, Church Crag)
Interesting moves, annoyingly I came very close to the sit, split a finger tip, and I have been nowhere near it on subsequent visits.
Grape Nut, sans block (7b, Earl), and Nazgul LH (7b, Anston)
Both unfinished business from years ago... I suspect finally ticking them was less to do with better strength / technique, and mainly due to now having bouldering mats big enough to embolden me for the final moves.

Routes - Abroad
L'Imbecil (7c, Siurana Village crags)
A really good line up a narrow wall, got it 2nd go, which was a nice bonus for the last day of the holiday when I was pretty beaten up.
Avatar (7c, Siurana Village crags)
Complete choss to a cave; a thin, sustained crux; joyous moves on the upper headwall. Great stuff.
Massa temps sense piano (6c, Siurana Village crags)
Hideous, compelling, and near ungradable overhanging crack action... I aged 10 years doing this.  I'm tempted to buy that Wideboyz book in the hope that a bit knowledge will mitigate such low grade horrors.

Route (I only did one!) - UK
Bullet (8a+, Kilnsey)
Only really tried as a keep-busy task. The ascent was an unexpected end to cold, wet, and windy day.  I'd never fully linked through the crux in isolation, and had only managed the first part, Man With A Gun, once this year.  But somehow I found myself at a dripping-wet finishing hold, rain lashing around the crag, stretching for the belay... and five times having to reset and rechalk when my left hand started to slip. Finally made the clip and was physically and mentally ruined for the rest of the day. 

Spankings
Main Overhang (8a, Malham)
By the time I was fit enough, it was wet... and then too hot.  Maybe next year.
Mandela Training Traverse (8a+, Kilnsey)
Invested a lot of effort into this, in the hope that a pair of soggy pockets would dry out and permit proper RP burns... they didn't.

[duncan]

Not a vintage year in lots of ways but here are some of the more notable climbing-related events:

Best trad. shuffles:

1. Central Rib at Wintour’s, with the lad. His first roped climb. Five pitches, so not quite in the long, hard and free category, but a great adventure for both of us.

2. Edge of Time (a rather trad. E4 up on Cyrn Las).  My annual long, hard and free trip with H was telescoped into two half-days in Wales. We were both under the cosh with work and struggling to get free time but, just for a moment, the sun shone and The Pass was beautiful. Great to be up there again for the last hard classic of the crag I’d not yet done. Ran down from the route and drove back to Birmingham to make the train with 15 minutes to spare.

3. Scenic Cruise 5.10+ Despite not cruising it. Scratched a 40 year itch.


Top 3 boulders:

1. La Voie Michaud 6C at L’Elephant. Most of you lot would flash this but it took a bit of work. Last day early start.

2. and 3: Any two of another dozen in Font. It’s always great there.

Top 3 partners I let down:

1. Robbie, we’ve been planning to climb together for years and when it finally happens I fall off and crack my wrist! Which meant I also had to bail on...

2. Andy, with whom I’ve been planning to try Paradise Lost at Cheddar for about 4 years and it’s still not happened.

3. Wil, when I had to cut my Spain trip short as work decided to reschedule a bunch of exams.

Top 3 spankings:
1. Life.
2. Work.
3. Sport climbing: didn’t do much, was rubbish when I did. Could the two be related?!

Looking for improvements in all three in 2020.


kingsholmy: the spirit of Fowler lives on! Of course you have to go back to finish it.

moose, your Massa temps... tale makes me very happy. I always recommend that route!

[Stabbsy]

Not done much, particularly with a rope, but I'll take it given the circumstances.

Trad

Not sure my rack has left the house.

UK Sport

Did a couple of routes at Masson Lees. They were OK.

UK Boulder

Griff's into Bovine (7B) - Link-up, but I hadn't done it before and climbs well when the slots aren't full of mush.
Smallfield Roof (7A/+) - Did most obvious things, then the starts of things into the finish of other things,etc., but it was a nice day and I didn't have to move the pads much.
Art of Japan (6C) - Had a nice session repeating Gorilla stuff and maybe doing one of the start/finish combinations I'd not done before, then headed up to do this. Just lovely.

Abroad

Haven't left the country for the first time in years, don't think I even made it to Wales!

Races

Hope Winter - Tore my calf about 5 minutes into this in 2018 and had 4/5 months of rehab to get back to any sort of form, so it was good to close the chapter. Also my first race as a dad. Ran the first descent like someone with a 4 day old baby at home, but got back most of places on the next climb and then ran well on the second descent and picked up a few more. Good cake selection at the finish.
Fairfield Horseshoe - I struggle in the Lakes races, but this one seemed to suit me. Didn't overcook it on the first climb and then paced it pretty well and worked up the field a bit. I'd have taken finishing just outside the top 30 in a Lakes classic anyday.
Sheffield Half - I don't normally like road running, but Sheffield half is such a good atmosphere. This was my 3rd year after missing out on my 80 minute target in the previous two. Almost perfect conditions, cool with minimal wind. Ran well to Ringinglow, lost a bit on the way to Dore, then one of my clubmates came past me as I turned onto Eccy Rd. Turned myself inside out to stay on him as long as I could. Got dropped going down to Hunter's Bar, but he'd dragged me back onto target pace. Buried myself for the last 2 miles, but it wasn't until rounding the corner to the finish and seeing the clock that I knew I was going to make it. 4 seconds inside.

Top Spanking

Grisedale Horseshoe - I struggle with Lakes races and this one really didn't suit me. 1500m of ascent in 10 miles, so I knew it would be tough. Ran conservatively to 10k (up Catstyecam and Helvellyn and down to Grisedale Tarn), then reached the climb up St. Sunday. Stopped just before the summit with a collapsed runner and then tried to get moving again, but my legs were having none of it. The descent off St. Sunday destroyed my quads and then I got cramp in both calves when I reached the bottom. Hobbled/shuffled the last 2 miles in interminable pain with people streaming past me. An experience I don't want to repeat, so I need to either stop racing in the Lakes or do more hill reps and descents.

[moose]

moose, your Massa temps... tale makes me very happy. I always recommend that route!

Your recommending that bolted abomination would technically qualify as a "hate crime", you should be on trial at the Hague!  At the rux, rarely has so much energy been expended gaining so little height.

[Fiend]

Is Massa Temps Sans Piano that sort of slightly overhanging slightly stepped corner crack groove thing on a sector just before a big drop off to the right?? I remember it being a nice HVS 5b sort of climb.....

[Wood FT]

Top three sport routes (UK):

I've been on teacher training for the majority of the year and was expecting to tread water with climbing but in UK terms it has turned out to be one of my best years (4x 7b, 6x 7b+, 6x 7c, 2x 7c+ and an 8a). As such it has been hard to choose just three but there's the fun...

Celebration (7c) - A Peak District and UK classic. Holding my breath as I balanced around the top bulge with nettle bites itching on my ankles makes me laugh now. Tough to choose between this and Arch Enemies but the dale feels like home and this route has real character to it.

The Call of Nature (8a) -I first tried this in 2014 and over the years just used it as something to get on when stuck for something to try elsewhere. After declaring Ring of Fire the better route I decided I should put in a conscious effort or else it's just sour grapes. After a few enjoyable sessions with Stone and others I ticked it with just a simple change of foot placement. Those watching thought I was taking some time to reflect at the top when I was really just dying of vicious hot-aches. Verdict: RoF better but this experience and the preceding few weekends top it.

A Bigger Thud (7c) -  Ah, Moat Buttress... busiest Peak crag of the year 2019. Neo-classic Garderobe was surely the highlight of many a Peak climber's year while it was Bigger Thud which inspired me most. Featuring desperate crux for the short (7c+, please) over genuinely immaculate limestone it deserves both more attention and a direct start. Thanks to Kristian for both of these routes.

Top Three Sport Routes / Multipitch (Switzerland):

Einarmiger Bandit, Ofen (8-pitch, 7b) - Much hyped route in Schweiz Extrem that we hadn't heard of anyone going to. Need to write it up for the ukb thread for these things but had a great experience, mostly falling off. Picture havin' it on cordless madness with 150m of air below you and a golden eagle circling above. Harsh grading but ***** and recommended.



Pulsar, Cheselenflueh (10-pitch, 7a) - Climbed the day after the above. Steep and varied route with two long and contrasting 7a pitches back-to-back. Big day with the whole crag to ourselves, got back to the van at midnight after a late start to climb in the shade. Shattered.

Floh, Hintisberg (7-pitch, 7a+) - Coming to terms with the fact I wasn't capable enough to climb Deep Blue Sea yet we drove up high across the other side of the valley to sleep and watch the clouds slowly reveal the Eiger in the moonlight. In the morning we climbed this steep and impeccably equipped route with one of the best views in the world behind us. I really learnt some multipitch craftwork this trip and it felt like it was all coming together on this route.


Top Three Boulders:

The Shield 7B - A good day of ticking at the little Church Crag. I felt like I climbed this quickly (4th go) and with my own beta. Went back to try Gulliver's again but lost interest with bouldering save a trip to Anston to repeat problems I'd done before.
Art of Japan 6C, Curbar - Such a stretch I hadn't ever pulled on, turns out it's just dirt crimpin' really, winner!
Paul O Grady 6C+, Ogwen - Wow, now that's a boulder problem. What a beautiful spot on the hillside.

Top Three Spankings:

GBH - Drove to Malham quite a bit before term started to make some progress and fell-off twice tickling the flake after the run-out above the skipped clip. Big Whips. Rain and work stopped efforts thereafter. It has made me a better climber and I look forward to hopefully ticking it quickly in a few months. Great to be at Malham and getting into a routine, regardless of what some people feel I find it immensely inspiring watching people trying hard on their projects here.

DWS - shambles this year, fell off Rainbow Bridge for the first time ever then hurt myself falling off the pirate-rope we put up only a few years ago, which is now in tatters. What with this and a poor effort on Mark of the Beast at Lulworth it was not a great year for my favourite climbing genre.

Trad or Gritstone - I just don't feel it at the moment, y'know?

[moose]

Is Massa Temps Sans Piano that sort of slightly overhanging slightly stepped corner crack groove thing on a sector just before a big drop off to the right?? I remember it being a nice HVS 5b sort of climb.....

Sounds like the one. Steady to start, the finish is just linking a load of slopey breaks on the right-hand side wall.  But the mid-height crux was a horrendous burly-but-precarious udge - at least for a crimp loving ganglefest like me (and judging by some comments I have heard, I  am not alone).  Eminently predictable that you would have liked it... pervert!

[AJM]

I didn't really do any bouldering this year and I don't think I really did enough DWS to qualify as a separate category either....

Best 3 sea cliff routes:
- Colours, Wallsend. Scorching hot day but the route was dry as a bone, I tried as hard as I could try, and I got the onsight. Hardest onsight in ages, great route, perfect Wallsend day
- Bare Reputation, Cave Hole. My dws highlight of the year really, didn't do that much but I got this second go on a day when I'd driven down in the rain, found the crag running with water on arrival, and then like magic the sun came out and within half an hour or was game on.
- Riders on the Storm, Stennis. I hurt my shoulder at the start of what was supposed to be my big bang trad weekend of the year, bank holiday in Pembroke with Duncan. No enormous ticks as a result - First Blood being probably the hardest - but I really enjoyed Riders.

Top 3 inland UK routes:
- Video Kills, Split Rock. Having had an epic flashpump scrappy start to the day on Certain Surprise I was a bit nervous but it climbs really well, great gear, all that.
- Amanita Muscarina, Avon. My first E4 in years, done not too long after doing Yellow Edge, 2 long day trip missions to Avon with Dave. Classic adventures - some choss, some hard moves, some strange gear, and ice cream at the summit
- Great Western/Overhanging Groove, Almscliff. We went to the Dales sans child at Easter. I did all of the top50 routes at hvs or below in Northern England at Almscliff, which provided ample excuse not to try one of the big E3s, but I enjoyed these the most. Highlights of an excellent weekend.

Top 3 "foreign" adventures:
- Pensola Reniu, Cavall Bernat, Montserrat. A long weekend hit with my wife, we wanted to do this the last trip we did before my son was born so good to come back and finish it off. A great day out, some wild pitches, cool positions, really enjoyable. I fell off the crux pitch, which is a bouldery sandbag, but not really fussed, I thought the long pumpy pitch below was excellent and the whole experience great
- Ocean Boulevard, Fairhead. I know it's not foreign but I didn't do much abroad this year and I got there on a plane  Favourite of the routes we did at Fairhead, tried very hard, pulled it off.
- something else from Fairhead. Hard to pick really, so many good routes.

Top 3 spankings:
- Calcitron. And everything around it. Went down there when I thought I was going well thinking that doing a few thread-em-up E2/3s should be pretty steady, but somehow couldn't seem to find any holds or much gear in the right place and generally had a bit of a nightmare. Failed to get more than 6 foot up anything. A big confidence dent.
- Chapelle St Gras, near Morzine. Basically got spanked by everything here.
- Underbare, Cave Hole. Climbed this like a spanner and this was the start of shoulder knackeredness that dogged the end of my trad season. It's amazing, but I need to use my feet next time and not try to just campus things when I'm tired, because I'm too weak to do it with good form and that's just not cool for the shoulders.

P.s. Duncan - Paradise Lost 2020?

[monkoffunk]

Some great reading here!

Positives from this year:

Top sport climbs

1. Fighting Torque - 8a

First 8a and completion of something I’ve wanted to do petty much since I started climbing. Was a great process with all sorts of setbacks, like breaking the crux hold off, that made it all the more worthwhile. Felt good to be at a performance peak and actually feel really fit!

2. Ninja Warrior - 7c

Bit of Bristol esoterica. Had tried before and been shut down, unable to get foot high enough or stuck the crimps. After a few months of finger boarding and yoga was a totally different route.

3. Playboys - 7b+

Not a big number, but one of those routes that was unfinished business for me. One that all my friends had done but me back in the day. Did it in two goes at the end of a session, little bit skin of teeth, but a lot of fun.

Top bouldering problems.

1. Ladies Night - 7B

Most unexpected ascent for me. Struggled to work out every move, and then did it after a night shift on three hours sleep, right after I thought I was done for the day.

2. Beatle Juice - 7A+

Unfinished font business.


And some negatives...

Top spankings

1. Victims of Fashion - 7a+

Genuine sparking because it’s not really hard and I’ve been more than capable of doing it most of the year.

2. Wrist Business - 7c+

Should have tried harder.

3. Myself in the last few months

Not making the most of training opportunities, stopping doing yoga, getting fat and being unhealthy and low mood for no real reason. Generally being a bit useless.


Overall it’s actually been a great year, getting a bunch of stuff done. Foot off the peddle at the end, but made some good progress at the start, and should be able to come back reasonably quickly!