[205Chris]

Time for a look back on the best of 2014, wad or punter, vdiff or E9 it doesn't matter, just list your highlights in the usual categories or make up your own

Top three boulder probs, UK
Top three boulder probs, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new route/prob put up
Top Spankings

The previous lists:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013

[205Chris]

An average year for me, picked up a pulley injury at the Foundry in January which meant I didn't get on many of the things I wanted to. Although to look at it more positively it might also have forced me to seek out some other problems I might otherwise not have done.

Top three boulder probs, UK
McNab Sit, Lord's Seat - Just a brilliant problem in a great location. A moors classic.
Powerband, Tor - So on paper it's an eliminate traverse with an arbitrary start and finish point but the history behind it means it's much more than that. And it's a Power of Climbing tick.
The Rib, Burbage South - Tried this on and off over the years, sticking the last move is a real buzz. Then mild panic set in as I topped it out through a load of green slime.

Top three boulder probs, abroad (including Scotland)
Malc's Arete, Torridon - It's Malc's Arete - what more do you want?!
Gargantiot, Font - A brilliant problem with a crux off the smoothest of font slopers.
Futbol, Font - Shoulda, woulda, coulda flashed it but didn't. Sent 2nd go.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Disappointing lack of trad this year, in fact I only seem to have highballs on the list:
Isla Grace, Froggatt - Went out to clean it one morning planning to meet my mate / spotter out there. He bailed so I ended up soloing it with a helmet and no spotters. At least it wasn't far to the road if I spazzed myself. Possibly 2nd ascent?
Shy Boy, Chatsworth - Esoteric gem
Sick Arete, Derwent - Walked up after work one evening with Mark20. A great highball which deserves more attention.
Top three sport routes UK
Roof Warrior, Cheedale - Probably a bit soft but who doesn't enjoy yarding across roofs on jugs and knee bar rests?
Taylor Made, Cheedale - Had to be done, a route by my namesake.
That was the River, Cheedale - Should have done it second go but due to an unbelievable amount of redpointing incompetence it took 2 sessions.
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
As I didn't go abroad I'll go with 'outside of the peak'
Illywacker, Giggleswick - Euro tufa climbing comes to yorkshire.
Wargames, Chapel Head Scar - Although the crux is lowdown it maintains interest throughout. Good value.
Trowgbirge Wall, Trow Gill - Probably better than anything at Malham or Kilnsey at the grade.
Top three new route/prob put up
Phoenix Nights, Hillcar Woods
Bigger than a bee, Endcliffe Quarry
Kodos, Filthy Crag Q
Top Spankings
Jerry's Roof, Llanberis Pass - Going down this year

[abarro81]

A slightly disappointing year for me in some ways - my endless collateral ligament issue kept me out of UK sport, and my October trip consisted of me endlessly failing to get anywhere near doing Era Vella. Despite that, there were some ace moments too.

P.S. I love this thread. I just looked back through some previous years, well fun reading the old posts! They bring back some great memories. Makes me regret the years when I've missed the thread or not contributed for some reason.

Top three boulder probs, UK
36 Chambers SS - 2 hours drive, 1 hr hold drying, totally worth it. Loyal to the game.
Dark Reservation - 'cos I burnt Stu off, and it didn't feel too hard.
Don't Think, Feel  - good weekend in the mountains, even if we got lost for ages finding Paul o'Grady afterwards.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
No foreign bouldering this year.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Rainbow Bridge - Steve, Jordan and I all punted out of the DWS comp so went for a spur of the moment smash down to Berry Head. Hid the car keys in a bush, walked down barefoot, had glorious conditions on rock way better than I'd expected, did the Barrel trav and the extension over to white rhino tea, wandered back to the car as the sun was going down. Brilliant.
End of the Affair - First headpoint since I was about 19. Turned out to be roasting hot so pulled the rope to sack it and come back in colder conditions, thinking it would be reckless to do it. Pottered for a while and the sun started to go down, the rock went cold, and Nate kindly offered to delay going back to work to belay. Steady but exhilarating, really enjoyed it. A reminder that danger can be fun too. Keen for another headpoint or two this winter.
Mint 400 - Not really a solo as we had a load of pads, but a fun day out with a good crew.

Top three sport routes UK
Virtually no UK sport this year  Fuckin' stupid injury that rules out serious crimping. On that basis, I'll count the Stamina Boys as a route, so..
Stamina Boys - The very definition of 'one for the locals'. Arbitrary start, arbitrary finish, hard not to dab a tree..but it's a good challenge, and turned out to be much harder to link than I expected. I really do love getting pumped too.
Let's get Fossilised - in by default, but I did actually enjoy it quite a lot. Nice butch climbing, and fun to be on a rope for once this year!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Maskoking - bitches. Fought hard, got lucky. Great day in a big poo-filled cave getting boxed out of my mind and psyched out of my face.
Kings of Metal - Final day of a damn good 2.5week trip to Figols, Tres Ponts and Rodellar. Perfect weather, climbing well, good company, nice and quiet at the crags, Bonobo essential mix and Kolsch for the soundtrack. Stamina climbing on good holds up the middle of a freaking amazing wall. Always just in control but never too in control, just how I like my onsights.
Hard Crit - Having spent nearly 3 weeks failing on Era Vella, it was nice to know I wasn't just totally shit. Is there anything better than staming your way up a big onsight??

Top three new route/prob put up
Still a parasitic leach

Top Spankings
Era Vella - trained all summer for it, got beaten up by it. Turns out it's harder than I thought it would be! Stamina at another level. Hopefully this wont be in the same category again in 12 months time!
Louis Armstrong - found a nice lanky method, thought it was a goer, drove to Wales lots, didn't do it. Fuckety fuck fuck. At least it buys me some time before DC firebombs my house or something.

[csl]

Top three boulder prob, UK

Only did about 5 problems all year... None really warrant mention.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth - Pembroke. I just love climbing in the leap, and this was fantastic.
Ocean Boulevard - Swanage. a good early season day out.
Mizen Star - Fairhead. 4 days in Ireland, 3 days of rain. This was great, perfect hand crack on first pitch, nice boldish wall climbing up top.

Top three sport routes UK

House Burning Down - Cheddar. Quality climbing.
Still Waters Run Deep - Cheddar. Fantastic wall climbing.
Troll Team Special - Portland.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Fiesta de los Biceps - Riglos. Maybe the most fun i’ve ever had on a rope!
Sayonara Baby - Rodellar. Best route of the best trip i've had, such a satisfying tick. Victory whip and elevator down, of course.
Arnalada - Collegats. Love climbing on tufa's.

Top Spanking's

Chulilla - Brean. Came home from Rodellar thinking i was a beast, and then realised plodding up jugs for 40 meters does nothing to prepare you for UK sport.
Tennessee - Portland. Tidal, conditionsy routes never make the best projects...
Darkness at Noon. 4.5 hrs. Tide up to my waist belaying first pitch. Impromptu hanging belays. Grease. Factor two(ish) falls (not taken by me...). Totally fried my brain this one!

[Wil]

I had a top time in 2014. Trip to Spain, Swedish trad, lots of tick in North Wales and ate into some of the harder stuff I'd wanted to do for years.

Top three boulder probs,
I didn't boulder a lot this year. And when I did I wasn't very successful. I redid Conan the Librarian this week, which was good.
Finally went back to do Nicotein Stain - about 10 years on from last trying it.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Resurrection at the Cromlech was a big one for me. Spent an unnecessarily long time on it as I kept expecting it to be hard, but I found it quite steady.
A weekend in Pembroke saw a few good ticks, Bloody Sunday had been on the list for ages (and despite my mate's suggestion was not a good warm up, esp with the tide in and morning grease). I think The Minotaur takes the prize though, as although it's soft for E5, and I had a lot of beta from belaying my mate on it before my ascent, it was a big moment to feel that Pembroke E5 is in reach.
Yukan II - Headpoint at Nesscliffe. Saw a pic of this years ago and thought I'd have to try it sometime. Went down in June and did the moves, went back in August with more sport fitness and did it easily on a toprope, then more hesitantly on lead! Nearly peeled off the crux, but regained focus and powered through. A good fight.

Top three sport routes UK
Obsession at Malham, great to finish it.
Cosmopolitan on the Cornice, felt really hard and had a really wobbly ascent, but had it wired for when I did Cordless Madness.
Countdown - tried a few years ago and only failed due to belayer pulling the rope tight on the crux. Thought I'd piss it now, but took ages to work out the move!

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Granite Bitten - E3 fingercrack in Sweden. Fantastic rock.
Zeppelin, El Chorro. A grand day out, and surprised us both by being quite hard and a little scary.
Placuneo sin fronteras - A 7b at the Arab Steps that I'd always fancied. Old school crimping with big runouts on a vertical face. Beautifully thin in places.

Top three new route/prob put up
We did 3 new routes in Sweden when we stumbled up a big crag while looking for something else. A good experience. One HVS which was a little loose but would get stars on Peak Lime at least and on the opposite face we did a diagonal E2 crack and a steeper one more like E4, but we also fell off both as they needed more cleaning!

Top Spankings
Body Machine. Got really close. Ate a lot of salad and did a lot of 4x4s, got even closer, then got ill.
Abbing into Wen Zawn to do Dream on the promise of being able to walk across the zawn at low tide. Tide wasn't low enough and by the time other parties had come down, reascended our ropes, and we'd decided the tide was coming back in we'd wasted nearly 5 hours down there! We went home.
Cream - Led the top pitch, placed an unnecessary wire in a strenuous position a pumped out despite getting to the jugs!

[Oli]

Since getting a job and moving away from Sheffield, my climbing has been in terminal decline over the past few years. Other than occasionally having a look on UKB to see what's been going on, I don't think I've posted for years.

Rather than fill in all the categories, as I don't think I've done enough to fill each of them, I'll just stick in a few highlights.

1. Despite being generally a bit unmotivated for the past few years, putting the effort into getting to a wall regularly and finally having some sessions where I felt like I was actually making progress in getting stronger again.

2. Surprising myself every time I've been outside this year by getting up stuff I thought I wouldn't; be that flashing sport routes or bouldering. This comes with the realisation that I might have been overstrong and underachieving in the past, plus I've retained enought technique/knack/knowledge to make up for a lack of strength.

3. Rediscovering that climbing is fucking awesome because of the people you meet. Going to random crags and bumping into people you know, having a good laugh, making progress on routes/problems and generally having a good time every time I get out.

Definitely need to make an effort to get out more this year!

[kingholmesy]

Best routes for me this year were Rainbow Bridge at Berry Head and America at Carn Gowla.

Rainbow Bridge was a beautiful day out with friends, with a party atmosphere with loads of people DWS-ing.

America was a more lonely experience, but brilliant.

[jimmykay]

I haven't posted in this thread since my last decent climbing year in 2011. As barrows said though, it's good to look back on what's been done in previous years, so I'm contributing again this year. Especially as this has probably been my best year of climbing so far.

Top three boulder problems UK,
West Side Story. It has to be in here. That problem is a sheer utter joy to climb. For me, catching the jug was so unexpected. Classic.
Sloping Beauty. A great trip up to Yorkshire on May bank holiday included this great problem. I went right hand over the top for the glory jug which - if you've seen the landing - is one of the most audacious moves I've ever done. Brilliant.
The Joker. Now I didn't think I'd put this in the list, especially given the sheer quantity and quality of problems I've sent this year. But it meant a lot. I was already celebrating at the peak of the horizontal swing. What a buzz.

Top three boulder problems EU
Tristesse. My first of the big four. Hunted out the early morning conditions in a warm spell in October. Sitting on this boulder after topping it out was a great feeling. A truly world class boulder.
L'arrache Coeur. This scared the crap out of me. So doable but the worryingly high knee bar (with a make shift knee pad out of my sock rolled up in my trousers). One of the best thank god finishing holds. A climb I'd thought about doing ever since seeing it on my first trip to font.
Rubis sur l'ongle. Yet another amazing line. Stylish and hard. Another boulder that would be classic anywhere. Glad to get it finished relatively quick after plunging off it at least 50 times on the previous trip.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
I only did one during a injury rehab period. The Sloth. Mega classic and still managed to scare the crap out of me when trying to place gear in the big roof. Didn't know why I was making so much fuss when I pulled round the roof on some of the biggest holds known to man.

Top three sport routes
Nothing to write home about this year. 2 short trips to Spain and a day trip to Brean.

 
Top Spankings
Low Rider. It kicked my arse. It was one of the most miserable days ever in blizzard conditions. I could barely feel my toes at any point that day. Next year if I can bare the walk in again.
The Storm. Again. So many excuses, it was damp, the topout had ice on it, it was too cold, it was too warm, the holds were greasy, it was too windy, it's too reachy. At the end if the day, I was too shit to climb it again.
La conexión pelirroja. Got past the crux 3 times. Including on my second attempt. My ridiculously poor endurance meant I fell off every time. This killed me for the entire trip. 2 days I spent flailing around destroying my hands on it when it really should have gone down second go. Balls.

[Stubbs]

Funny year, grit season was shockingly wet, but made up for it with spring and summer climbing in the Lakes, Wales and Cornwall

Top three Six boulder probs, UK
As I didn't go abroad this year I think I deserve 6!
Jason's Roof, Crookrise: Had to patiently wait until March for it to be dry and in condition, was really happy to get it finished off quickly last season. Gritstone heels and beef at its best

Horror Arete, Bridestones: A total classic that I forgot about due to avoiding the venue because of the deteriorating condition of a lot of the rock. Felt pretty exciting even with a big stack of pads.

Carnage, Hartland: Had wanted to try this ever since seeing Stu's photo of Ru on it many years ago http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=17041 it didn't disappoint, great climbing on bullet hard rock in a beautiful setting.

Cosmic Wheels, N Wales: One session 2013, one session 2014, was happy to get this done relatively quick so I didn't have to walk up the hill again! Nice to top out on such a big boulder, wouldn't be out of place in the Buttermilks!

Worldline, Queens Crag: Managed to shuffle my hands and feet in the correct order first go on this one. Wish there were more at Queens of this quality in between this and Queen Kong or Red Dragon! Great rock, amazing outlook from the crag.

Picnic Direct and a few others, Bowderstone: I love the Bowderstone, I never get bored of climbing there, I do get bored of being told 'it's easier to walk up the ladder'.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Seconded some routes at Almscliff, that was it for trad or sport!


Top Spankings
Grand Opera, Bowderstone: Still holding out on me, I think I'm a bit scared at the top!
The Flakes, Earl: Another million sessions with no success, I suck at rock climbing

[Richie Crouch]

Top three boulder probs, UK

1. Diesel Power - about time!
2. Grey house - great deceptively tricky 2 mover in a nice setting.
3. Chopsaw - fantastic leg flick move to a boss sloper.

Top three boulder probs, abroad Didn't get abroad for the first time since 2007. Going to count Anglesey and England as abroad as I only climbed 1 day outside N Wales!

1. La grande Fissure (Fontainefawr) - great find and sounds foreign, so I'm claiming it
2. Not your problem (fedr Fawr) - good burly slap
3. Zippys traverse (plantation) - my only boulder attempted outside Wales in 2014

Top three trad routes/soloes UK spent 1 day at Stainage in summer...

1. Tower Face Direct - really enjoyable and felt committing for a fairy like me. May get brave enough to try an E3 in 2015 
2. Agony Crack - short and fun
3. The Asp (2nd) - fun moves, quite easy on a top rope!

Top three sport routes UK 1 day at penmaen head

1. Flowstone Shuffle - really immaculate rock, great tufa features and I got a good pump on!
2. Flaschenburste Crack - nice jug climbing
3. Helyg crack - only other one I can remember doing

Top three old nemesis done:

1. Wavelength - The most desperate v8 finally conquered
2. Diesel Power - finally clung on to the finish
3. Don't think, feel - didn't think I'd ever climb this

Top Spankings

1. Louis again
2. Corridors of Power - everyone else pissed it, I kept punting and losing fingertips!
3. Malteser-last rites - thought it would go fast but kept dropping move up to crimp, need to try in winter

[Will Hunt]

Top three six boulder probs, UK

Pistol Whip - Sometimes the door opens and you can walk through. A lovely feeling.
Undermined by Rabbits - A great day at Hawk Stones making up problems for the new guide.
Rudolph/Millstone Grip - Tried this many times. First go and quite steady on a day that wasn't a greasefest!
Bird Flu - Just gorgeous. Such sublime movement. Can't sing its praises enough. And in such excellent company too.
Trust - Gorgeous friction climbing
Fluide - Thought it would take a while but got it pretty quickly. It feels great to be doing 'the move' and watching the top get closer and closer and realising that you're going to nail it. A fantastic feeling.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Pottered around for a morning at Castle Hill but nothing to write home about.

Top three seven trad routes/soloes UK

Eavestone Wall - Wanted to do for ages and thought it would need brushing. Clean as a whistle and a fantastic problem to solve. Latching the crack is unbeatable.
Crazy Paver - As with Eavestone Wall, wanted to do it for ages! I looooove Eavestone. Makes all other grit crags (bar the Roaches) seem like such insipid specimens.
Comet Wall - Such a surprise to find this clean. Feels like a big route, even though its very soft at its grade. Steep, exposed, awesome.
Equus - A long and lonely lead which I didn't think I'd have the minerals to try (classic underachieving). I think I'm getting a lot better at seizing opportunity when it presents itself.
Kipling Groove - Long awaited and I'm really glad I didn't do this earlier when HVS was my grade. It felt fantastic to hang around mid-crux and drink in the situation and history - following in the footsteps of The Great Man.
Psycho - Solo/boulder problem/whatever. Full on mindfulness achieved. Dreamlike. The holy grail of climbing.
Track of the Cat - As for the above. Utter calm. Udging and popping for the top feels like waking up from a deep sleep.

Top three sport routes UK

Cold Turkey - Flash, first 7b. Classic underachievment. Really enjoyed it, not knowing whether it was in the bag till the top.
Barguest and Barguest Direct - On the whole, Troller's knocks the shit out of Malham any day in my book.
Angel Dust - Brilliant line. Feels a bit out there.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Lluvia de Asteroides - Just incredible. Moving through some crazy terrain at the grade.
Arabesque - Restoration of faith in my abilities.
Yogur de Coco - As for Arabesque

Top three new route/prob put up

I've done absolutely stacks this year. Most of which isn't recorded yet. However there are three stand out climbs that I feel really lucky to have done the FA of. They're all really good. For goodness sake go and repeat them!

Northern Rail




Spirit of Kinder

Absolutely delighted to do this. Fantastic piece of rock and a great line.




Prime Suspect




Top Spankings

Bachelor's Left Hand - How can flash pump be so bad on an HVS.
Wasted Youth - Malham lower-off runouts. Grumble grumble.

[B0405413]

Top three boulder probs, UK

Crimpy Roof- Not sure but think this may have been my first proper 7b...awesome how a small change in footwork can make the most powerful moves feel easy

Trust- Awesome problem, soft for 7b mind.

Phoenix Wall- first 7b+, what a cracker.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Poetry Pink- First e5 onsight. Yeah boi! Nothing compares to that feeling of running it out, teetering across the rainbow. Can't wait to do more slate/e5s.

Desperation Crack- The best and hardest HVS i've ever done, felt like learning to climb again. Can't wait to do shit loads more offwidth cracks.

The Strangler- Think this was my first e4 onsight, and what a beauty. Slapping for the break felt amazing, was completely in the zone.

Top three sport routes UK

Didn't do much sport but looking forward to doing more this summer, would be good to get a few 7Cs done.

Yosemite Wall- First onsight of the grade, definitely my favourite. Made me realise how rewarding climbing long routes can be.

Hoodoo Guru

Smooth Torquer

Top Spankings

All 3 visits to Earl Crag, this place is utter nails. Looking forward to going back and finishing off at least some of what I started.

Silly Arete at Tremadog- need to start doing routes that are longer than the 10m gritstone routes i'm used to, can't deal with exposure at all!

[Hoseyb]

I meant well this year, but got sacked back into the search for new stuff...

Top three boulder probs, UK
You know when you can't actually remember what you've done the last year, I must have done some repeats.. So I'll hazard:
Dog shooter- sheep pen
Central wall - braichmelyn
A V4 on the barrel.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
The smile - lower sharpnose
Non metallic silver - irismans walls
Cormarants traverse low - Clogwyn y Fulfran

Top four new route/prob put up
Twll love E5 - Twll Mawr
The wall of something dead F6A+! - Porth Howel
Erodeo F6B -Marchlyn mawr reservoir boulder
The Filling F6C - James' boulder, Cwm y glo


Top Spankings
the groove- wavelength
Edge problem - Cromllech
Projects at trefor, cwmffynnon, Cwm y glo, Dyffryn mymbyr and many other esoteric backwaters never to grace a guide..
 

[JackAus]

Top four boulder probs
Nappy Nuggets Traverse V7 - Lot 33, Nowra. Not a great problem but it was my first of the grade.
Smoothie V6 - Red Rocks, Canberra. Water polished rhyolite... Suited me really well, did it 4th go. Very fun problem.
Wish You Were Here V5 - Jannali Reserve, Sutherland. Very cool 3d climbing, nice and shouldery with a tough top out that came off of on the first 2 attempts... Should of flashed it...
Black Heart V3 - Flat Rock, Nowra. Great line at a crag that I found. Really fun moves.

Top three new probs put up
Crab Nebula V4 - White Whale, Jervis Bay.
The House That Jack Built V4 - Flat Rock, Nowra
60s Spiderman V3 - Lot 33, Nowra. Great little climb that I'd cleaned up in 2013 but never tried. Nice balancey vertical climbing to a dyno finish.

Top Spanking.
DWS project... Still...

[nik at work]

Top three boulder probs, UK
Don't think I did any, certainly nothing of note springs to mind.

Top three boulder probs, abroad
Went to Font, can't remember climbing anything in particular.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK
You Said Moist(E8 7a), Isle of Man. Not a huge line or anything but very hard, very steep and given the landing pretty bold despite the small stature. Still not a classic route or anything, but pleased to get it...
The Subtle Knife(E7 6c), Isle of Man. Thin arete climbing that you actually face climb.
Sleeping Sickness(E2 5c), Trowbarrow. I just enjoyed this one.

Top three sport routes UK
The Riddler (7c), Isle of Man. Steeper than expected start then tech headwall.
Gotham (8a), Isle of Man. More steepness, steady 7b-ish start to a rest then the big roof is a bit powerful and a final tenuous arete, yum num.
Errrr

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Sikau Tot (7c), Margalef. The most arbitrary route ever but silly fun.
Miguel El Casero (7c+), Margalef. Good bouldery schnizzle.
Errrr

Top three new route/prob put up
Mostly repeating myself here but...
You Said Moist (E8 7a), Isle of Man
The Subtle Knife (E7 6c), Isle of Man
Gotham(8a), Isle of Man

Top Spankings
Time, despite pretty decent weather this year I barely got out climbing due to work, kids, diy, life. Hopefully better balanced for 2015...
The weather, just as temps dropped and the years uber trad project came together the rain started and seepage appeared and never dried back...
Margalef, not really a spanking as I actually got on with the climbing really well but a weeks trip with just 2 ticks is hardly earth shattering. Although despite the spanky nature of the trip it was what I was expecting as I was making a BIG step up in terms of grade and it went pretty well in a non ticking way so actually a massively positive spanking.

[kelvin]

Top Spankings

The rain in Swizzy this summer. Totally nailed any plans I had and I came back dispirited, weaker and two weeks early.

Honourable mention goes to Brown and Whillans routes however - defeated by the lot of them apart from 3 Pebble Slab. Barbarian, Maupassant... dear god, I'm just not that strong and my technique is shit.

There was also a night at Torture Garden back in February...

Top Boulder

I'd been rather excited to have ticked 6A in Font itself, proper buzzing like but then I checked Bluea.info and it turns out I'd managed 6A+ a few hours earlier in two goes. Straight up the slab to take the banana. Looks rubbish but wasn't polished to hell with pof or the feet of a million boulderers.

[nai]

Top three boulder probs, UK, England, Peak

Odd year, only climbed in Peak, Scotland & Font.

Diamond White Left Hand - a nemesis, could have ended up in Spankings, probably been up there 6-8 times over 3 years to try this. Did the crux a few times and failed to top it out, after a slight sequence change it came down to find a spotter, man up or give up. Nice to topout to a herd of grazing deer glowing in the sunshine.
Pogles Wood (stand) swinging around on blobs & slopers - what's not to like?
Kudos special mention for this repeated so many times in pursuit of Hot Fun, now done this one problem more times than every other problem >7B I've ever done, good job I like the heel-hand match on it. No cigar on HFC though.

Top three boulder probs, Scotland
Poor Font trip following injury, only Le Jeu du Toit would qualify so....

Big Lebowski - Ruthven. Last day of holiday and a second consecutive 5am start from Aviemore, knowing I'm unlikely to ever be back. Long pumpy problem, I start tweeting to kill time between attempts but not expecting anyone to be listening at that time. But tomtom starts replying from Australia and his encouragement from 10,000 miles away sees me over the line.



Thirlstane - Jihad & Bad Seed, visited about 10 years ago and said I'd never return. Ended up staying 2 miles away so went for a look and glad I did, some quality problems despite the generally smeggy nick.  Wasn't strong enough to campuss Bad Seed but found a cool heel/hand match and they're always good.

Top two trad routes/soloes UK
Insanity, Curbar - months of circuits on a steep board but it turns out trad cracks are the best way of getting absolutely pumped stupid.
Left Unconquerable, done it previously so not for the climbing, but while belaying a young Kestrel/Falcon/Harrier landed on a ledge a few metres away and sat, seemingly puzzled, watching flying ants for a while, and I watched it rather than my leader.

Top four sport routes UK
Indecent Exposure - Would have been impossible any other year but now I can recover at shake outs and the value of hours of boring Aerocap training becomes apparent.
Sturgeon - should have done it 2nd go 4 years ago then couldn't touch it on the few occasions I returned over the years. Fairly steady and fuss free in the end.
Armistice Day - a former nemesis that I never used to be able to rest on and found desperate but turns out to be ok with the right tool set.
Old Man River great technical sequence that feels grades harder until you work it out and all becomes apparent.

Top Spankings
anything over 7a and 7C.
The heat

[Gus]

YES!! 

Sat at home recovering from having my hip replaced so this thread is just what the psyche doctor ordered!!

My knackered hip really kicked in this year and started to cause me some issues, which was really hard at first as I was still trying to push my level, which was a bit like ice skating uphill. As soon as I chilled out and dropped my grade slightly in June-ish, I was really enjoying climbing again and got some great stuff done!!

Top 3 Boulder Problems UK
T Crack, 7b, Cratcliffe Even though it was my right hip that was f**ked, it really affected my strength and flexibility on my left side too, meaning that on this problem, I had to do the campus move, then do a comedy 3 swings of my whole body ("a one, and a two, and a three and a kick) to get the left heel on. Topped out laughing my head off at the general shambles of the situation!

Electrical Storm, 7b, Burbage Always wanted to do this one, pretty tough I though. Broke out the "last go psyche" and burnt off 2 8a+ boulderers, which is always nice. Still got it!

Northern Soul, 7a+, Hepburn The highlight of a high commitment Northumberland trip with Andi T and Eddies. Weather forecast was shambles but the commitment paid off. "If you don't go you won't know!"

Top 3 Boulder Problems Abroad
Managed another big tick this year by visiting Ibiza for the first time (and got served a drink in "Space" by Richie Hawtin, RESULT!)
Did a bit of research and exploring and discovered a place called "Sa Punta", basically bouldering above the sea, with a bar/ restaurant on the crag. Did the following stuff there (details on UKC if anyone's interested):
Sa Punter, 6c
Exit, 6b
Summertime, 7b+ This was actually a long traverse with some really hard, thuggy moves. Did all that to the jugs at the end, then a hold snapped and I went headfirst into the soup screaming/ laughing!

Top 3 Trad Routes UK
Gathering Sun, E7 6c, Nesscliffe So good, was pleased how steady this felt, I think kalymnos trip fitness helped, thought hip issues were gonna thwart me on the top move but it worked out OK!

The Night Prowler, E6 6a, Hen Cloud OOOOOoosh! Very pleased and proud to get the 2nd ascent of this, as much to honour the first ascentionist, the (in)famous Mark Sharratt than anything else. Absolutely stunning route and line, and by far the boldest route I've done, it could even be E7 6a!! If you dropped the last reachy bit you'd fall the entire length of Hen Cloud at it's biggest point, all the way onto the deck! This route might as well BE Mark, in the way that some dogs are like their owners. Amazing!

The Beast of Bauston, E6 6b, Bauston Tor Got a bit locked on to doing some esoteria, so had a couple of drives to check this out. It was always too warm for the top crimps, even on the actual ascent, which made it nice and memorable. it's even got an all out dyno lower down. Well good!

Top 3 Sport Routes UK
Wild in Me, 7c+, Raven Tor As usual, gotta have a Tor route in there (you either get it, or you don't). This is definitely not the best route of the crag, but I chose it after getting back from jug hauling in Kalymnos to work a weakness, literally, as I couldn't crimp. Wild in Me defo does that, youch!!

Let the Tripe Increase, 7c, Moat Buttress, Had never climbed at Moat Buttress before, great crag! Had to try surprisingly hard on this, good power endurance exercise and a seriously ratty crimp. Youch again!!

Taylor Made, 7c, Cornice After putting a lot of effort into getting this clean, being shut down with wet crux holds, and using the completely wrong sequence, it was nice to smash this one in. Yarding through and across the top roof is amazing!!

Top 3 Sport Routes Abroad

Joggel and Toggel Extension, 7b+, Panorama Flippin 'eck! There's nothing like a tough, reach boulder problem after 36 metres of pumpy tufas! the routes 40m long, and I nearly dropped it at 39 metres. Psyched that I hung on for the insight!!

Marmornie, 7c+/8a, Irox Awesome day out involving a boat trip, swimming, and a great crew. Team send psyche, although thought I was gonna get left out at one point, managed to pull it together and smash through!

Mr Souvlaki, 7c, Arhi This was a classic example of turning up to a crag in Kalymnos, not very psyched about how busy it was, so rather than sit around moaning and unpsyched, grab the guidebook and walk somewhere quiet. Sure enough after a 15minute walk, there's an amazing quiet crag with 4 star routes on it!

New Routes Put Up

Ivi Ole, 7c, Grand Grotta Still not sure if this one's mine or not, but I hope so! Spoke to the relevant people and it seems that it hadn't been done so time will tell. Great new route either way, an all out dyno "Loskot and two smoking barrels" style, from raven for crimps, to a huge bucket. Fun squared!

Also cleaned and climbed a load of routes from 7a-7c in the new area for the "Legends Competition" at The North Face festival, as ace to see some of my heroes like Yuji on them later that week!

Top Spankings

Bim Bam Boum, 8a+, Saint Photis definitely not a Kalymnos jug fest. painful and hard as sin, still awesome though. Was cool to see Gaz Puffin Parry smash it in with no less than 6 power screams at the end of a big day!


Well, that's it, sorry for the ranting, but great to relive the memories!

Keep 'em coming, I love this thread so much, always read it from start to finish As usual, don't be shy and big up yourselves.

Right, I'm off to hobble down to the Works on my crutches and do some pull-ups. COME ON YES!

here's to a streng 2015! Cheers

[cheque]

Always an amazing thread and one that gets me planning/ daydreaming for the year ahead.

Top three boulder prob, UK

Art of Japan, Curbar is the only one that I'd really call "top" (only started bouldering again very late in the year)- great position, cool moves, all very satisfying. Took me all afternoon, too, which made it feel like more of an achievement!

Top three zero boulder probs/ routes, abroad

I only went abroad with my girlfriend this year. I'm not going to count heaving up some chalked jugs under a bridge in Seville!

Top three five trad routes/soloes UK

The Arrow, St Govans Climbed this as the sun set on one of the best days climbing I've ever had- blissful belay at the top looking out to sea, totally knackered. One of the many Pembroke classics I'd not done despite going down every summer. Placed 17 runners!

Billiard Buttress, Stanage I've long had this or Pot Black in mind as cool routes to do but they always seem to be occupied when I'm there. On a deserted June evening soloing I "had a look" at the bottom, found myself on the ledge, took a deep breath and smeared to the top. Once there I had a special moment, looking across the crag at every buttress in turn, with a memory from each drifting into my mind. Then I got savaged by midges.

Central Buttress, Black Rocks Anyone who knows me will be familiar with just how much time I've spent at this mental crag and I climbed this route, which epitomises the place, so many times in 2014. Like all the routes at BR it's an awkward bugger- a sandbag at it's lowly grade, unclimbably green for half the year, needs to be done in two pitches if you use a rope (and needs a size 5 cam for the belay!) and, despite following a beautiful natural line, is climbed almost entirely on manmade holds. Mandatory conversation with stoned local kids/ "earthy" local family at the top. Ace. 

Riders on the Storm, Stennis Head Did this earlier on the amazing Pembroke day. Shirtless in the sunshine. It was my mate's first seacliff experience and as I headed across the traverse he yelled "That looks so fucking epic!"  I'm terrified of deep water so these sort of "it's a bit bold but it's essentially DWS" routes are a real buzz.

Great Buttress, Dovestone Tor Red River Gorge 5.7. Doing the slab pitch at the top unbelayed seemed like a great idea 'til I simultaneously committed to the sloping top and clocked the potential sideways fall. 

Top three two sport routes UK Not sure either of these would have made it if I'd have had more than three days clipping bolts, but still..

The Bournemouth Flyer, Portland Cuttings I really like the Cuttings even though I never seem to climb well there! Enjoyed this one- the first thing I'd done that actually felt difficult since hurting my finger. After I did it my mate took a huge whip into the corner and tore a knee ligament though! 

Mother's Milk, Blacknor South, Portland was good too. First real pump of the year.

Top Spankings

Didn't get properly spanked on anything this year- didn't try (anything) hard enough really.

Amorican, Craig Caerfai Traversed at the wrong level on this and was very close to falling off. I'm never going to talk down slabs with cracks in again! 

Maupassant, Curbar Didn't have the balls to do the layback move on this. Reversed it, got angry with myself, went up again and still didn't have the balls so reversed it again. Classic case of expecting a route to climb itself really. 

[Grubes]

Top three two boulder probs, UK

Old Lace 6C Holmfirth. After finally trying this problem properly instead of knackered at the end of a session. I did it in a few attempts and instantly down graded it from 7A to 6C. its 6C when you know how.
Cleos arete 5+ second go on the day after not trying t for 3 years.

Top three boulder probs, abroad

La surplomb du lepreaux 6A L'elepant, after trying it on 4 visits neil tells me I am using the wrong holds and do it next go
L'eminence grise 6A buthier tennis - tried on a few trips walk round the top to see where the hold is and tick it. nice moves and high enough to make you think
la Moreau 6A l'elephant - my first 6A in the forest.

Top three one routes abroad (any genre)

Viejos y puretas 7a Desplo, First 7a in chorro. very soft but nice to do a long route with no route fitness.

Top Spankings

My job which I hated with a passion then got made redundant.
My mind sapping all my psyche and want to climb.

[T_B]

Managed another big tick this year by visiting Ibiza for the first time (and got served a drink in "Space" by Richie Hawtin, RESULT!)

Good tick that

[Fiend]

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Granite Bitten - E3 fingercrack in Sweden. Fantastic rock.

This was mine in 2012, amazing route 
We definitely need clear seperate categories for trad routes and highballs 

I got ready in advance and wrote a long list, and left it on my laptop, derp.

[T_B]

Overall I've had a really good year due to some focussed training and maximising my outside climbing time well. Despite having 2 kids under the age of 3 and a full-time job I managed to repeat my hardest boulder trav (Staminaband), do a couple of 8a+s (my hardest RP grade) and do some 8as quickly. Plus I've climbed 7C again on the 50 degree board at the Schoolroom and done 1-5-8 (25mm rungs) again for the first time in 13 years. Oh, and we had an extension built on the house. 2015 should mean I have a bit more time for evening climbing, as the kids get older and putting them to bed is no longer a two person job

Top three boulder probs, UK

I mostly failed on harder stuff this year, but these ones I got up/along:

Flatword, 7B+, Baslow. Back in Feb. First new problem on grit since breaking my heel. Baltic cold and hammered it into submission, not very pretty.
Moffatrocity, 7B+ (though I think it deserves 7C personally), Crag x. Been on the list for years. Two sessions, subtle drop knee key to success. Ate a whole bag of Haribo on drive to the crag.
RZA Roof, 7A+, Cratcliffe. Satisfying to be able to hold those crimps on a relatively warm September day when in the past I would’ve struggled #deadhanging

Top three boulder probs, abroad

Didn’t boulder abroad this year.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Scraping the barrel here as basically haven't done any trad. Have lost the love for the time being and don’t have much time for it anyway. Might try something hard and dead safe next year.

The Weaver, Tremadog. Did at the end of a day of work.
The Rasp, Higgar. For a daft photo thing for work.
Crackstone Rib, Pass. Again, work.

Top three sport routes UK

Agent Provocateur, 8a+, Crunch Buttress. Great to find this little PE route on a buttress I’d never seen before. A 7B+ to a rest, then a 7A? dyno. Pleased to do it quickly in a couple of sessions.
Cider Soak, 8a, Anstey’s. Been on the list for years and finally got the opportunity to visit Anstey’s, en famille. Had a 2.5 hour slot before beach/childcare and crushed it, despite it being wet and needing loads of drying (by my mate Dave – thanks Dave!). My kind of route – got two moves above the jug on the flash. Psyched to try Tuppence next time I’m down there.
Dominatrix, 7c, Kilnsey. Been saving this one for a long, long time and decided I may as well have a go at the on-sight, having been training for my Spanish trip. I had a brief warm up and went for it, relying on just pulling/sprinting to get to the break. Just managed to wobble over the roof and clip the chains.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Chacals, 8a+/8b, Rodellar. I secretly wanted to do this route having read about it being one of the best at Rodellar, despite officially being on a onsight/flash trip. When I saw it I knew I wanted to try it and as it soon became apparent early on in the trip that I’d be doing quick redpoints instead, I got on it. Two working sessions on the first day, then a rest day, then a thorough working session and then fired it first RP with lots of screaming (not like me!). Surprised, but it felt like I’d earned it after all the training I’d done specifically for this trip. Can’t think of a better sport route anywhere. Sprinting between rests and ‘hero’ drop knee moves on the headwall. Just awesome!
A Cravita, 8a, Rodeller. Had all the beta on this, but fell on the flash at the crux throw for the jug. Next go fell above, then did it next go. Like 3 Works comp wall problems on top of each other. Good fun.
Gracia Fina, 8a, Rodellar. Fell on the high crux, then poor tactics meant falling off again a couple of times due to trying at the end of the day and then in the sun. Did after a rest day.

Top three new route/prob put up

None. Looked at an obvious unclimbed thing on Stanage early on, but it’s too hard/scrittly for me. I’m gonna replace this with top 3 indoors/comps

CWIF 2015. 231 points. Came 43rd. Climbed really well (cough.. lanked a few things.. cough) and enjoyed it.
The Schoolroom. 40 sessions since it re-opened on 1 June. Chuffed to have so far repeated one 7C on the 50 degree board. Modern comp style walls are fun, but I will get stronger here.
Highball comp. It’s sort of become a Christmas tradition for me and the missus to do this friendly comp each year. Love the wall/atmosphere and the setting tends to be very good for the comps (Yann Genoux this yr). Last year we both came 2nd, this year we both won. My target had been 200 points and I managed 205.

Also enjoyed taking part in the DWS comp in Exeter, qualified in 2nd for the semis but couldn't climb Sunday due to family commitments. Two-day comps not really viable for me.

Top Spankings

So many… but the big ones were….
Lou Ferrino (3 sessions). Kept cutting loose on the move from the ‘shelf’ to the right hand pocket. The time I did get the pocket my left foot slipped off the massive rail!
Zeke the Freak. One session in March to confirm I can’t pull on those holds. So much for my first 8b.
Paint it Black. Just don’t know what I’m doing on this other than not getting beyond the first move.
Press Kneeling. The Low Left is my long term ‘hard’ bouldering project. I have done from the start into the left-hand press gaston and I’ve done the stand up. I got really close to the Kneeling and sort of hope the low left won’t be that much harder. I have a plan for getting this done and it involves bench pressing, assisted one-armers and Russian twists.
Subculture at Kilnsey. This is my bogey route. It’s actually the sort of route I despatch quite easily, but this year on my sole trip to Kilnsey I punted off the ‘easy’ top about 3 times in a row (not like me, but it was hideous greasy conditions and my left ankle was massively swollen from a decorating injury). I punted off the top previously the last time I was at K and overall I think I’ve had 4 or 5 days on it as I definitely had previous working sessions. Arggghh!

[Stabbsy]

Bit of a strange year for climbing - was quite keen at the start and end of the year, but struggled to get motivated going to the same crags again and again over the summer so went running instead. Think I need to go back to trad climbing!

Top 3 trad routes :-

Grand Illusion, Almscliff (E3 5c) - The stand-out route of the year, but I was only climbing for a few minutes. I left this for ages as it looked intimidating, but finally got on it to discover all the holds are, in fact, huge!
Poetry in Motion, Rylstone (E2 6a) - Boulder problem or route? - who cares? The holds get better as you get higher, but the top-out still makes you think.
Maupassant, Curbar (HVS 5a!) - Couldn't remember if I'd done it before, but got on it having not climbed on the grit for some time. Curbar grades are always quite a fight!

Top three two sport routes, UK :-

Seemed to end up at all the same crags as always, but without enough regularity to break new ground so a bit of a dry year in terms of quality new ticks.
Ice, Dinbren (F7b) - One of my few trips away from Kilnsey. Great route and everything I'm bad at.
Offwithereds, Attermire (F7a+) - Some proper esoterica. Not the finest climbing, but the solitude and the view make up for it.

Top three sport routes, abroad :-

Du Miel Entre Tes Seins, St. Leger (F7b+) - Not a great trip due to cold weather, poor preparation and splitting a tip trying this on one of the few warm days. However, things started to come together towards the end of the trip and dragged myself up this with a couple of fingers wrapped in tape.
Chasing the Dinosaur, Castellet de Calp (F7c) - Having spent many trips in the Costa Blanca, it was good to find some new crags where we could escape the sun! Looks like a strange little crag from a distance, but the rock is generally good and the routes pack a punch.
Cuestion de Estilo, Wildside (F7c) - Something I'd tried on two separate trips over 10 years ago, both resulting in finger injuries. It was my first thought on returning to Wildside and really pleasing to tick it quickly, using exactly the same sequence as I'd been trying back in the day!

Top 3 boulder problems, UK :-

The Keel (7B+) - I'd put off trying this for years, but went surprisingly quickly when I put some effort in. Still managed to drop it 3 times with my hand in the pocket!
Whalebak (7A+) - Ticked at the end of a great day. Even average problems on Simon's Seat seem good because of the surroundings, so top quality problems up there are pretty special.
Electrical Storm (7B) - Went from thinking this looked easy to finding it impossible to ticking it in the space of an hour. Catching the final hold as the rain started to fall made it fortuitous timing!

Top spankings :-

Underhand, Almscliff - I'd never really given this much effort, having struggled to make the heel stick. A change in footwear and a slight change in beta had me really close. Then I knackered the heel on the one right shoe I had with me (rookie error!), so returned the next day only damage a pulley tendon after not warming up properly.
Ian's Traverse, Brimham - This might have been my top spanking last year as well. Having flashed Happy Days when I first did it (8/9 years ago), I've now fallen off this on the Happy Days finish on at least 3 sessions.
The Bandits, Dinbren - First time up this was a massive shock to the system! While it improved on the following attempts, it made me realise that Dinbren really finds out my weaknesses.[/b]

[Fiend]

3 best trad climbs Scotland:
Frustration, Glen Shian - this delectable slab had been an obsession for a few years, and lived up to it's appearance, especially on this route, easier than expected but simply perfect crimpy slab climbing.
Thelonius, Mungasdale - another obsession that took 6 visits to get both myself and the crag in condition. Even then the boulder start took some effort, but what a reward of super-steep juggy romping.
Lorelei, Loch Tollaidh - climbing anything tricky had all but been dismissed on this mid-heatwave day, but I just gave it a look and that turned into a hugely enjoyable ascent.

3 best trad climbs England:
Wheels of Fire, Bowderstone Crag - all out slapping and power-screaming, miles out from the gear. Life-affirming.
On Secret Sand, Y Foel Penolau - beautiful subtle line, technically exacting climbing, on great rock in a stunning location.
Thumper, Eastby - the very essence of run-out gritstone.

3 best sport climbs:
El Arquero Y El Pez, La Pedriza (F6c+ slab) - finally getting to grips with the holdless horror that is Pedriza.
Aintza, La Pedriza (F6c+ slab) - ditto, and climbed straight after. A great day.
Long Good Friday, Weem (F6c+ slab) - many grades easier than Pedriza 6c+ but still a brilliant technical challenge.

3 1 best boulder problem:
Physical Graffiti, Dumbarton - 7 pads and it still felt committing. Lovely climbing.
...I didn't boulder this year.

3 best first ascents:
Careless Orc, Rhinnogs - roadside 3 star easy classic gritstone arete? Yes please!
Who Rattled Your Cage, The Tiger - quintessential aesthetic choss at it's most remote and beautiful.
Serenity, Serendipity Crag - abseil inspected so felt a bit strange but good climbing in perfect gneiss.

3 best supporting acts:
Belaying Smally on the second ascent of Nerve Damage E7 / E8+++, Ardmair - the most impressive climbing I've seen in person. Abbed down to clean it before aborted onsight attempt and was shocked how bold and hard it was. Smally actually admitted he was scared doing it!
Not spotting Stevie Weir on Physical Graffiti, Dumby - sat on the Eagle boulder, watching what we thought was another tentative attempt, until he started doing it with no spotters and the pads all wrong.
Belaying Steve Perry on The Snake, Loch Tollaidh - at his grade limit, complete sandbag, totally run-out. Inspired me to get on Lorelei afterwards.

3 best trips/days:
Mull, early summer - brilliant weather, no midges, strong coffee, posh whisky, camp-stove curry and loads of good climbing, just as I recovered from a tweaked wrist.
Ullapool, early winter - the last great weather of the year, Assynt glowing in the autumn sun, and some really great climbing.
Reecastle, mid-summer - drove down, led 3 great routes in a few hours, belayed my partner, watched Caff do his solo thing, drove home. A slick operation!

3 that got away:
Bladerunner Direct, Auchinstarry - fell off the final semi-tricky move after doing all the hard bits and pissing the start. Gutting.
The Screaming Weem, Weem - saved for years for the flash, but never really stood a chance. Relentlessly desperate and never worth it's downgrade.
Pugilist Direct, Floors Craig - the climbing was piss, placing a cam was stupidly hard and exhausting, resulting in a slump of the 5b move past it, a waste of good moves.