UKBouldering.com

The best of '06 (Read 41336 times)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9933
  • Karma: +561/-8
The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 04:41:22 pm
The year's end is upon us and what did it bring you in the way of climbing? This is a climbing discussion board after all, so modesty/embarassment etc aside, if you please i'd like to know all/any of the following as applicable:
  • Top three boulder probs, UK
  • Top three boulder probs, abroad
  • Top three trad routes/soloes UK
  • Top three sport routes UK
  • Top three routes abroad (any genre)
  • Top three new route/prob put up

To kick things off:
  • Brad's Wall - Stanton, My Buddy the Apple - Rowtor and Great White - Curbar
  • Beresina - Cuvier, Noir Desir - Rempart and Eclipse - Cul du Chien
  • Priapism - Blue Scar, Balas - Kilnsey and Powerplay - Yew Cogar
  • Pistol Fingers - Long Tor Quarry, Soft Option - Kilnsey and GBH - Malham
  • Nuit de Temps, Les Couilles au Cul and Le Tresor du Zebra, all Gorges Du Tarn
  • Forest Casual - Black Garden, Pistol Fingers - Long Tor Quarry and Fearful Orange - Gardom's

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#1 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 05:07:48 pm
Personal favourites:

Brit boulders: Suckerpunch (Guisecliff), Sing a Rainbow (Carrock), Pinky (Brimham... probably more a case of deferred gratification than quality of climbing).

Brit Trad: Darius (High Tor), Rock Island Line (Peel Crag), Arcturus/Golden Slipper link (Pavey Arc... the most perfect belays on a perfect summer's day).

Sport (only had a few days in Spain at Easter so from a very limited pool!): Tecnocratas (Sella), Pepestroika / Aramarda del Pillar (Gandia, v. similar can't decide between them), El Sol (Gandia).

Non UK Trad... only two routes but worth mentioning as they are both great: Espalon Central (Puig, Costa Blanca), Deidre USBA (Penon, Costa - lots of hideous grit-esque chimneying... with added bird shit!)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#2 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 05:10:28 pm
Bonjoy you put me to shame, i hardly done enough climbing to fill all your criteria  :'(

Top three boulder problems UK - Trigger Cut, Ain't No Party on the Orme, Solace Arete at Talfarach.
Top three boulders abroad - Harry Spotter, and Boulette - Cresciano, Raindogs right at Chironico
Top Trad - The Boldest and Midsummers up at Cloggy (Nic led all of midsummers though but the traversy bits felt scary to second)
Top routes UK- Haven't done many but Little Plum at Stoney and Hot Fun at rubicon- both for the history. Also doin bad bad boy for the 40th time was pretty special (sad bastard)  :)
Top routes abroad - Vas o Vale siurana and two of them pumpy fuckers at Terradets (think ones called Jam Session)
Top three FA's - Ain't no Party, The Malteser and The Highlife - all on the orme

It all amounts to not very much but i was injured for three months in the summer so that pissed on my bonfire. Roll on 2007.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#3 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 05:14:45 pm
This should maybe go in a different thread but i'd like to add my worst moment (apart from being injured) was spending 6 hours on a VS on Llech Ddu. Shit crag i hope it falls down.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9933
  • Karma: +561/-8
#4 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 05:22:00 pm
 Worst moments for me would be the bloody hip popping out on Soul Power and dropping Keenus at LTQ, fortunately he caught the rope and avoided decking!

(woz)

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 500
  • Karma: +25/-4
#5 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 05:35:22 pm
Here goes...
Top three boulder probs:
Suavito(Gardoms), Pedestal Arete(Caley) and Quasar(Sampson's Stones)

Top three boulder probs, abroad:
Jokari Droite(Sablon), Chasseur de Prises(R Canon), El Poussif (Isatis)

Top three trad routes/soloes:
Veal Thing(Curbar), Bancroft's Roof (Almscliff), Rouse's Wall (Carrock Fell)

Top three sport routes:
N/A
Top three routes abroad:
N/A
Top three new route/prob put up:
Creep (Tube), That Boy Needs Therapy, Dawn Raider (Tube).

Top three climbing moments/memories:
Summer lakes trip with t' old man.
Summer evenings at the tor.
Font fun and games

Oops, my new years resolution should be to get abroad more, and do more trad and sport climbing!

Edit: Worst Moments:
Dropping Tom P. down the hill at Caley from Guacamole twice in a row. We thought he had broken his arm.
Visiting Boulderhog's Pen Of Pain and not being able to get from the bottom to the top, even on the sub V3 warm ups. It goes up to V12 :o
Topping out on Ben's Groove on a very warm evening in the dark :'(
« Last Edit: December 31, 2006, 05:56:02 pm by (woz) »

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#6 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 07:21:26 pm
Top Three: (Does this mean hardest or favourite?)
Hardest: Pigswill, Pigswill Eliminate, Not My Stile; Favourite: Razor Roof, Not My Stile, Pigswill

Top Three put up (also second/third ascents of quarried esoterica)
Dinosaur Adventure 3D 6c+, Lower Montcliffe on christmas eve, first ascent
Snakey B 6c+, Wilton 1, third ascent, really nice problem
(OK, only two, but both very very good problems)

Best moments:
finishing Pigswill on a beautiful day in April, with Martin Boysen and Steve Bancroft watching
falling off Smooth Torquer at Kilnsey, repeatedly, including a huge lob
summer days at Kilnsey
summer days at the Wiltons
autumn days at Caley and Almscliff, flashing V4s and V5s
winter days at Brownstones doing the classics again
rainy days at BoulderUK, falling off the sodding V7s...

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9933
  • Karma: +561/-8
#7 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 07:39:11 pm
Top Three: (Does this mean hardest or favourite?)


Favourite, but they often coincide anyway

Serpico

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1229
  • Karma: +106/-1
    • The Craig Y Longridge Wiki
#8 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 08:13:05 pm
Top three boulder probs, UK: Not the most succesfull year bouldering as I got injured very early on, but:
Caley, the left arete of the horn boulder. Slopy and a bit dynamic - exactly what I'm really shit at.
Almscliff: Eliminate on the front face of the Virgin using crimp for LH and a footlock - exactly what I'm good at, so it was a real gift at the grade and a good bit of ego massage.
Raven Tor: The Weedkiller traverse, it's a sickness and I'm sorry.
Top three boulder probs, abroad:
Font: Pensees cachees. Holy Moly.
Cresciano: Some 7a+ OH trav opposite La Boule. Good problem but special because I did it on New Years day.
Top three trad routes/soloes UK: Embarrassingly haven't done a single trad route this year.
Top three sport routes UK:
Kilnsey: Urgent Action, has to be one the top 3 sport routes in the country.
Kilnsey: Grooved Arete, done a few days after having a wisdom tooth out.
Malham: The Oak, awesome route. The holds are all big, the crux is moving your feet
Top three routes abroad (any genre):
Only one sport climbing trip this year, to Nice. It's ruined Yorkshire for me.
Deverse:Mekanik Destruktiv Kommando, big fight at the end of the redpoint.
Any of the amazing 30m, overhanging 6cs I did at Peillon, Castillion or La Turbie.
Top three new route/prob put up:
Only one:
 Kilnsey: OTT, a link from WYSIWYG to Vanilla Path via the rising traverse of Heresy. Features an amazing 12' of new climbing! It's actually a good line, and stays drier than most things on North Buttress.

The Low point of the year has to be this feckin cold, which I can't shift.

dave

  • Guest
#9 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 09:32:09 pm
UK best: Bens roof, eatswood traverse, a roof thing at back bowden.

abroad best: double detante (font - flash), zilliman (magic wood), red roses (flash).

trad/solos: black chimney, castle chimney, Cleft Wing Superdirect, at stanage.

Uk sport: first bit of chimes.

abroad sport: 6a thing on happy island, mai pen rai in the defile, 6b thing at muai thai, thailand.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#10 Re: The best of '06
December 31, 2006, 11:33:14 pm
uk: brad's wall - stanton, double bum - gardoms, mammoth book of ufo's - stanton
abroad: golden eye - magic wood, double detente - mont pivot, salathe wall - rempart
trad: white slab - cloggy
sport: n/a
routes abroad: n/a
3 probs put up: n/a i think

worst trad: getting dragged kicking and screaming up some shit crack at cloggy. a lot of screaming

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1987
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#11 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 10:38:45 am
UK: The Nose, some eliminate on the Virgin, Mothership Reconnection
Abroad: n/a
Trad: only one so it's got to be Central Wall, Kilnsey
Sport UK: Raindogs (obviously), The Ashes (got to be the best route of it's grade in the country IMHO), The Maximum
Sport Abroad: n/a
First ascents: n/a

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#12 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 11:38:54 am
  • Top three boulder probs, UK
Deliverance, the terrace, Ben's roof
  • Top three boulder probs, abroad
Grottes des soupirs, la boule (not finished), dreamtime stand (unfinished)
  • Top three trad routes/soloes UK
hahahaha! does clipping a thread on stoney count?
  • Top three sport routes UK
Caviar, PUTP (v.close but sadly unfinished)
  • Top three routes abroad (any genre)
didnt go abroad to climb routes this year.
  • Top three new route/prob put up
dobbin's big pink suprise at the school. Neo classic.

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#13 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 11:53:07 am
Andy F you tease, i forgot about thorn crag. i would like to swap mothership for book of ufo's please

Falling Down

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4887
  • Karma: +333/-4
    • bensblogredux
#14 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 12:47:18 pm


Top three boulder probs, UK: Brads Arete @ Eagle Tor; Silk Start @ Stanage; A little Extra Direct Start (not because it's good but because I'd been trying it a long time).

Top three trad routes/soloes UK: Stairway to Heaven on Dinas Mot; a damp Weaklings Wall on Brown Crag in Aberdeen which was a bit of an adventure after work; Regent Street at Millstone.

Top three sport routes UK: Flashing Martial Music @ the Cornice - didn't succeed on any of my projects which was a bit of a disapointment.

Top three routes abroad (any genre): La Fronta de Popula People of Judea and some other 6b+'s at El Chorro in Feb.

Also paddling out in heavy surf at High Rocks in Barbados with two Hawaiian Nth Shore Veterans who couldn't make it out... one got swept down the coast and the other just couldn't get through the shorebreak - I caught two mackers :-) .  Surfing with the dolphins and having perfect head-high surf at Easky for a whole week; catching a hefty one at 6ft Rodiles amongst the super aggressive locals..

Learning to play the banjo.

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#15 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 01:02:31 pm
Home:  Soft on the G, Gardoms.  Pocket Creme, Talfarach (done before but still up there).  Can't think of a 3rd (not been in UK much) OK, The Gimp, Caseg (done before but still coolest prob of the year).

Abroad:  Mantis, koh Tao.  Skyla, Koh Tao. Some arete in Finland (name lost).

All routes:  N/A

New probs:  Pauls' Boutique, Koh Tao.  Houdini, Beddgelert.  Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.


bigphil

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 241
  • Karma: +2/-0
#16 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 01:24:59 pm
Arete of Ultimate Cuntitude, Koh Tao.

What a great name.  Is there a background?

The Sausage

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 645
  • Karma: +72/-1
#17 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 04:29:57 pm
...
« Last Edit: January 01, 2007, 04:39:03 pm by The Sausage, Reason: wrong log in »

Stubbs

  • Guest
#18 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 04:40:41 pm
    * Top three boulder probs, UK
Picnic Sarcastic SS (was well psyched at the end of a looong weekend), Zoo York standing start, Caley and All Quiet at Burbage.

    * Top three boulder probs, abroad
Shiver Me Timbers, Camp 4 (An oddly seldom climbed highball classic), Wasabi, Washoe Boulders, Tahoe and Go Granny Go at the Buttermilks.

    * Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Sucessor State, Brimham, Bancrofts Roof at the cliff (scaring (woz) half to death as my feet swung off!) and Wall End Slab at Stanage.

    * Top three sport routes UK
Only did three, so I guess it's Dead End Job and Frankenstein at Malham and Smooth Torquer at Kilnsey

    * Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Snake Dyke (the walk almost killed me), Some Bachar route at Owens Valley and one of the steep Juggy ones at Big Bear

Great year, but would, like to get abroad more this year, back to Font first off!

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#19 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 04:58:47 pm
  • Top three boulder probs, UK
perfect day start, picnic sitter, weedkiller footless (from one move in) this bit depresses me somewhat, implies i haven't actually done much at all this autumn, winter... stop fucking raining!!!!

  • Top three problemos abroad

berenzina (didn't do it, will do) centaur, carnage all at font....

  • Top three sport routes UK
comedy, raindogs, brachiation dance

  • Top three routes abroad (any genre)
galaxy, changement de look, corps etranger all ceuse, what a shit crag.
goals for 2007,  consolidated font 7c, get back to ceuse, avoid injury,and to not get rained on so fucking much.

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1693
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#20 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 06:39:37 pm
Why are people writing about what they failed on? There must be things you have climbed that you are more proud of than what you've failed on???

Dobbin, did you actually climb  dobbins pink suprise? Because I think to put up a new problem implies you have done it, although in this peculiar case you are technically correct. You did "put it up" so I'll let this slide...  ;)

  • Top three boulder probs, UK
The Keel (because it was suprisingly hard for me), Crazy Legs Crome (wild moves + excellent seqence), Pete's Power Pull (because it involved no feet but plenty of power) 
  • Top three boulder probs, abroad
Hypothese (ultimate classic 7C+), Eclipse (best 7C in font?), Berezina (first 7C in font, classic status)

I've kept it to bouldering only because I can't remember anything else I've done and because this is ukbouldering. But I also failed on some amazing problems. They will be in next years achieved list.

ferret

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 549
  • Karma: +40/-4
#21 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 06:55:09 pm
uk

brad pit - finally!!!!!! didnt intend to try it n it went 1st go ;D
lou ferrino - if only it topped out
tetris - how good is this!!

Abroad

psoass mole, targa - 1st 8a+ so beautiful, nearly screamed the crag down!!
the egg, squamish - blew pulley on this last year, 4th go this year, double psyched
the flame, hueco - easy for v12 but so good

trad

hmmmmmmmmmm, wot was that again

sport

too much like work 4 my liking

FA

across the pond, hueco - obvious line with cool moves maybe soft v11

best moments

brad pit, psoassmole, the egg, the flame, chilled day at st bees 4 my bday, maybe in that order

worst moments

pulley (again) torn hamstring (couldnt heelhook, my worst nightmare!!!!) carrying a shoulder/elbow injury 4 7 weeks of my dream states trip

JR

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 702
  • Karma: +22/-2
#22 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 07:39:51 pm
2006 finally saw a return to some amount of form after a nearly 2 year injury recovery...

    * Top three boulder probs, UK
Undercooke (St Bees), Deliverance (only 'cos i could still do it)
    * Top three boulder probs, abroad
Untem Beim Ziller 7c (Zillertal), U Boat 6c (Magic Wood)
    * Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Skeleton Ridge (Isle of Wight), Tower Chimney (Stanage), Crab Crawl Arete (Stanage - the last route of the VS challenge)
    * Top three sport routes UK
Tufa King Hard (Chapel Head Scar), Englands Dreaming (Blacknor)
    * Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Ula (Verdon), Sarre Roof (Italy), Baisser Sanglant (Verdon - mind blowing exposure and encounter with a gryffon vulture nest) 


AndiT

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 666
  • Karma: +33/-3
#23 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 08:51:05 pm
Sport Abroad:

Magic Flute on the Bernia Ridge, it was just such an amazing experience, everything, not just the route. An untouchable memory for me I think.

Sport UK:

Thormans Moth, absolute top-notch quality, thanks AP but probably more, thanks Jon :beer2:

Trad:

Black Magic @ Pentire Head, it just went on and on and on; Inaccessible, surely the Churnet's finest offering and unrepeated for sooo long; Catharsis, yes, get in! There are more, but OP states three...

Bouldering:

Don't think I've done a new one this year, the pad has stayed stashed all year really :oops: at a push, perhaps Ina City Riot at Ina's because it's a highball really or something in Northumbria early in the year.. In that case I'll take a general 'Leek Lads' tick and include Martin's final decade long siege and final success on Inertia Reel Traverse, he totally deserved that :thumbsup:

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5763
  • Karma: +227/-4
#24 Re: The best of '06
January 01, 2007, 09:50:52 pm
Home:
Brads Wall (Stanton), Autumn (Eagle), Yabbadabbadoo! (Burbage)
Away:
Iceberg (Isatis), Froggy Dick (Isatis), Futur Anterieur (Apremont)
Routes Home:
None worth mentioning
Routes Away:
Can't remember names but they're all awesome tufa lines in Turkey

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal