[cheque]

Time for, in my opinion, the best thread on UKB.  Tell your stories of fun and/ or heroism from 2016 and get everyone else psyched for the coming year.

In the words of 205Chris:

"Wad or punter, vdiff or E9 it doesn't matter, just list your highlights in the usual categories or make up your own"

Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Top Spankings

The previous lists:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013
Best of 2014
Best of 2015

[tomtom]

[emoji106]

Great lime season for me - Rubicon nemeses of A bigger splash and A bigger tail laid to rest. Decent early grit season - finally did Gorilla Warfare and really enjoyed Late Junction both at Curbar.

Highlight of 2016 was the arrival of this little fella...

[Sidehaas]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Flatworld, Moffatrocity, Paint it Black. Put lots of effort in to all of these and it was well worth it 

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Crazy Horse, La Memel, Attention Chef d'oeuvre - the best of a short trip to Font in March.

Top three sport routes UK
Arch Enemies and Free Monster. I only did two - my first 7c+ and first 8a 

Top Spankings
eatswood Traverse. 13 sessions later still no tick...

Happy New Year all!

[lagerstarfish]

best boulder problem - White 28 sit start at 95.2 - a series of lovely moves not too far off the ground

best route - soloed The File at Higgar without warming up or having done any of that type of climbing recently - turned into a bit of an adventure, but still fun

got spanked by everything and everyone

[Richie Crouch]

Top three boulder problems, UK

1. Main Vein (caseg boulder) - a great font like problem in good connies with the lids
2. Jerry's problem (Sheep Pen) - always wanted to do this classic test piece
3. pr0n makes me horny (Porth Ysgo) - got the beta off madams and dispatched in short time!

Top three new problems put up:

1. The price is wrong Bob (Gallt yr Ogof) - an awesome straight up 2 move board problem
2. Yr Morlo sit start (Porth Ty Mawr) - great shouldery and burly problem that I had to try hard on
3. Shipwreck Prow Sit start (Porth Ty Mawr) - snuck in to nab the fun dynamic sitter to Fatneck's super classic stand up prow. People should really go and repeat this, well boss!

Top Spankings
1. Tide of Dreams - miles harder than PMMH. 2 trips there and no cigar.
2. The Wire - got close falling off after the hard moves then developed a dodgy right shoulder around June and sacked the cave off for the rest of the year.
3. My back from gym/golf/poor sleep - back locked up a few weeks ago and has been shit since. Scared to try too hard and can't do deadlifts or squat for the foreseeable! My lower Core is turning to jelly

[WillRobertson]

Top three UK:
1. Gorilla Warfare. Yes I know it's in a dank pit, but I'd wanted to do it for ages and was proper psyched to flash it.
2. Dancing Queen, Saddle Tor. Class problem that came together unexpectedly soon.
3. The Wave, Bonehill. Classic of its grade on the moor and one I'd struggled with previously. Seemed to be a stepping stone as it's led to me really enjoying Dartmoor granite and climbing more moor classics.

Top three abroad (unsurprisingly all from an Easter Font trip...) :
1. La Joker. Third session over two years and three trips, was so so happy to get up it.
2. Magic Bus. It's clearly not the best problem in the forest but it has great moves and it clearly showed the progression from my previous trip as it felt easy.
3. Indestructible. Fantastic moves again, and set the tone for a really enjoyable week.

[Duncan campbell]

Flipping love this thread!! Really looking forward to reading all the replies as they come trickling in over the next few days!! Hope it's a tricky decision for you all!!

Top 5 UK Boulders

A Northern Soul, Hepburn - absolutely amazing have wanted to do it for years and it didn't disappoint. Should be on everyone's list - it's not that hard!

Psycho, Caley - Again wanted to do this for ages. Very intimidating. Found the initial rockover to be the crux and with some beta the top felt steady but high! Ron is the man!!

Andle Stone Wall, Stanton moor - lovely bit of crimping up a wall

Dancing Queen, Saddle Tor (Dartmoor) - had a great few days out on the granite over Xmas including ticking this problem in a gorgeous day. Absolutely mega climbing on this one.

Trust, Roaches - There's no bloody holds!!!

Top 5 UK Trad routes

Great Wall, Craig y Forwen - Amazing sustained climbing on Leap quality rock, for sure the best quality inland lime I've climbed in the UK. Expected a romp and ended up having to try hard all the way. Fantastic - go do it!

The Cullinan, Lundy - Classy, bold climbing in a wild position. Guidebook cover tick, enough said?

Mean Streak, Stennis Head - one of those moments when everything clicks and you are trying hard without it being a struggle.

Vladimir on the Rocks/Tangerine Dream/Olive Branch, Pembroke - all done during a week in Pembroke all excellent for different reasons. Vladimir was great being in the Leap as per but it was totally unchalked so the lower bold wall felt quests! Tangerine felt like an amazing romp, and olive branch was a tough but amazing hidden littlejohn gem!

Crimson Cruiser, Craig y Clipiau - fantastic steep, bold climbing. Amazing top out!

Top 3 UK Sport routes

Herbie, Malham - great to get this done. Felt like an uphill battle regaining previous highpoint after tooling my arm and not climbing for a month. The surprise at holding the move I always dropped was great.

War Hero, Chapel Head Scar - best 7a I can think of doing in the UK. Almost burnt Nathan off on it having onsighted it as the warm up (great to see him have to really try at the crux!)

War games, Chapel Head - Chapel head is ace!!

Top three routes abroad

Swiss Route/O Sole Mio, Grand Cap - my second Alpine route. Just amazing standing on the summit. Keen to do more on the grand cap with better acclimitisation

Le linceul de Penelope, St Leger - saw a pic of it a couple of years ago flicking through a friend's guide when in Spain. Remember her saying it was hard. Was great flashing it. Beautiful climbing on perfect rock.

Catalonia is not Patagonia, Montsant - was probably battling my way up this, savagely hungover, exactly a year ago! 40m of pump!!

Top Spankings

Main one was falling off The Great Flake at Caley, badly bruising my arm and not being able to climb for a month afterwards. Bit annoying but Looking back like this and the difficulty I have had picking routes shows what an amazing year it has been!

This thread!? Can never keep to the 3 per category rule as some things just can't be excluded!


Get reminiscing!!!

[sjw]

Top UK blocs

Once Upon A Time In The West, Seathwaite - 3* problem, 5* location.
Les Grand Doigts, Froggatt - one of my all time favourites, such great moves.
The Essence, Torridon - Wild and terrifyingly fantastic.
Malc's, Torridon - You wonder whether it'll live up to all the hype, and it really does.
Domes sitter, Rowtor Rocks - Loved how unique the sequence is.

Top blocs abroad

Man of Cow, Magic - Mega moves on mega rock, one of my most memorable 1st go best go blocs.
Blue Sky's Mine, Magic - Just class.
Sur-Prises, Isatis - Lifetime tick.

Top trad (only trad)

Little Chamonix, Shepherds - full value 1.5hr wait at the first belay. Another lifetime tick.

Top FA (only FA)

New Noise, Highcliffe Nab - Went up to have a look at this on a rainy day and was amazed that it hadn't been done before or tried very much by the look of it. Cleaned it that day and went back for it a few days later. Future NY Moors classic for sure:

Top Spankings

Lager Lager Lager, Earl - Finally did it after throwing my toys out of the pram multiple times over multiple months.
El Pousiff, Isatis - Probably tried this every year since 2006 and eventually did it this year.
Zarzamorra sit, Albarracin - Threw myself at this repeatedly with a very injured shoulder and should have walked away but insisted on keeping going until I hated bouldering, myself and made sure I added a few months of rehab onto my spannered shoulder. Lesson learned...until next time.

[fried]

Not a great year, injuries and bad weather being largely responsible, the first year I actually got worse .

Top blocs Font

In order of appearence

La Poigne - Cuvier, it's been a long battle, I usually have a couple of goes before going home, found a slightly different way of holding the starting holds, teetered up, nearly fell off every move, hardest thing I did all year, not a great problem but very satisfying

Les Yeux - Apremonts, The first time I've ever decided to climb a specific problem and actually done it in one (long) session, very good. Used completely difference sequence from anyone else I've seen.

L'incommode - Franchard Isatis, this was much more fun than I expected, heel hooks are the future.

Le Sale Caractere de Marie - Beauvais Hameau, lovely low grade techy wall, could have been set by a route setter, all the holds are perfect, but never more than needed. A surprise gem.


Too many spankings to mention.

[dave]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Stuey 5 Bellies - did it, then came back and did it again first go next session. What a time to be alive.
Red Baron Roof - great problem pulled out of bag after spending an hour and a half working the wrong beta.
Hitchhikers Sit (RH) - minor personal triumph as I had to raise my 2 finger pocket game considerably for this.


Should give an honourable mention to doing Northern Soul at Hepburn first go, because it's a knockout problem I've wanted to do for ages, had to turn on the old climbing ability for the top bit. Wouldn't have been possible without meeting up with Gav (cheers for the spot Gav).

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Eclipse, 36.15 Power, Welcome to Tijuana (all Font). Great family holiday.


Top three trad routes/solos UK Can't think of any.

Top three sport routes UK Don't think I even tied on.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
NW Face of Grand Combin de Valsorey 4181m, Difficile, Swiss Alps. Almost an absolute epic. Hardest thing I've done in the mountains by a long stretch.

Top three new routes/problems put up
Love Is Blind, Burbage
Gene Wilder, Dow Crag, 7c-ish - As far as I know this is new - sit start to Red Clover finishing up Gene. Really good!

Top Spankings
Everything on Peak Lime - Staminahumps (fell off 1 move from jug), Weedkiller Footless (tickled the top jug three times), Influx (tickled top hold), In Bulk (almost hung the big move), The Pinch (shit on it, as per). Also went on Vienna twice and hit the break dozens of times and didn't hang it. Fell off going for top jug (which I think I touched?) on Walk On By due to elbowing the crag half way through top move. Actually this might have been 2015, but still.

[T_B]

Turned 40. First year since 1988 when my main recreational focus wasn't climbing. I started running at the end of January due to frustration with the weather, wanting to just get out and a pulley injury. Stats: 42 outside climbing sessions, compared with 57 in 2015 (despite two trips to Font this year). Only 7 problems 7C and above, compared to 17 in 2015.

Top three boulder probs, Peak
Tetris. I'd wanted to try this for ages. In the end did it over two sessions at the end of July in breezy conditions, when I was supposed to be working in Peru and the family were on holiday in Ibiza. Best 7C on grit for me.
Brad Pit. Ridiculous dabbage in February, then 'not bovered' send in April when I was supposed to be spotting the missus before going for a run. None of the usual angst. Attempted every year for the past 15. What was different this year? Body position of course. Always tried it too front on. Doh.
Working 9 - 5 Standing Start.  A couple of summer sessions, then went back on 1 November and finished it by lamp light on a mint evening with some micro beta adjustment. Release the lank.

Top three boulder probs, non Peak
Peckitt Roof, Huntsham. A great session on the way to some friends' 40th. Did this and half a dozen other esoteric numbers.
Texas Hold Em, Trowbarrow. Better and harder than Vitruvian Man.
The Prow, Carrock Fell. Another new venue for me. Velcro connies.

Top three boulder probs, Font
Double Axel. Classic kung fu kick slap. Had failed on it way back when.
Peter Pan. Failed loads in the past, then again at Easter. Did it in 27 degrees (celcius Dave) on an August afternoon having changed beta to left foot high. Font in a nutshell.
L'Etrave. Pulled back on the start but finished it off. Another classic I'd failed on in the past. Spotted by Bart.

Top three fell races
Buttermere-Sailbeck. First Lakeland fell race with a reputation for being one of the toughest AMs. Just a brilliant experience all round.
Holme Moss. 28.5Km, 1130m of ascent. My first AL. Did it so that I could enter Langdale, though I was not fit enough/still recovering from hamstring tear. Toughest thing I've done for a long time.
Langdale Horseshoe. Trained for it. Nailed it. Not quite as fast as I would have liked, and in hindsight I ran a bit too conservatively, but felt strong at the end. It was an absolutely stunning day.

Top three sport routes UK
Beginner's Wall. That is all.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Nowt. First year in nearly 30 I've not placed a wire? Even sold some of my rack.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Les Artisans. 40th birthday long weekend. A perfect sunny January day in Margalef.
Malasombra. Just keep pulling.
Memorias de una Sepia, Siurana. Work it, wait for the sun to bugger off. Crush. I do like a quick redpoint. My only grade 8 route this year.

Top three new route/prob put up
Nowt

Top spankings
Polish Dave's 8A on 30 degree board - pulled left middle pulley in January. Urggh.
Opium - pulled internal oblique, having pulled lower back two weeks prior to Font, then again on L'Etrave. Probably the low point of the climbing year, having already suffered a pulley and wrist injury as well.
Black Rhino - tore hamstring 'warming up' on a cold, late May evening three days after Buttermere-Sailbeck. OK, maybe this was the low point of the climbing year, except I'd already shifted my focus to running. So it was the low point of the running year! Thought I was going to have to call mountain rescue, but managed to shuffle my way back to the car holding my arse.
Toejam and Earl. Off the pace despite some last-minute training. I guess I would have done this in a session last year, judging by how quickly Dave p*ssed it ; -)
Megalithe - a zillion goes over two early morning sessions.

[stokesy]

Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:

Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:

The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.

Waterworld, Castle Hill -  Unlikely beta, cracking setting, and a proper last ditch effort, fighting all the way to the top. Mint.

Andromeda, Castle Hill - Can't think of many problems where the key was to slap downwards to go upwards.

Top 3 boulder problems, USA:

The Wave, Little Rock City - A great bit of climbing on a cool feature at what was my favourite crag in the States.

The Hulk, Bishop - A brilliant ramble up a proper sized boulder.

Tiny Crack, Mount Rubidoux - A tenuous gem at a real surprise of a crag. Conditions were awful and everything nails, but great climbing.

Top 3 boulder problems, UK:

Egg Arete, Cratcliffe - Palming, pressing oddness, can't believe it took me this long to try it!

Joe's Arete, Froggatt - Quality line, quality problem. Another one I should have made an effort on years ago.

Satin, Stanage - Despite an unwarranted amount of moaning, this went quite quickly really. Satisfying and there's still the challenge of the full route...

Top Spankings:

Quite a few in the States, Flagstaff particularly saw me get up fuck all. Top one though has to be back on the grit. Attitude Inspector has to be the first grit f7A in a long while to show me up that badly. Especially when it clearly ain't that difficult!

[moose]

Top three boulder problems, UK
I barely bouldered this year - only ticks that come to mind are:
Trust at Guisecliffe - a nice bonus from one of my very few afterwork forays of the year,
and most memorably, Scary Canary at Caley - a half-session's work after getting fed up at the roadside area of falling repeatedly into chest-high fern-shrouded pits - a send born of frustration.

Top three boulder problems, abroad; Top three trad routes/soloes UK; Top three routes abroad (any genre); Top three new routes/prolems put up
Didn't go abroad, do any trad, or put up anything (other than a fingerboard and some pulleys).

Top three sport routes UK Malham / Kilnsey
Stolen - more a relief than anything.  After hitting-but-not-holding the break at the end of the crux 8 times (and doing Cold Steal 12 times), I had a bit of a fraught time desperately trying to keep it together and notdrop the very droppable last moves (almost powering out whilst clipping the belay was.... memorable).
Overnite Sensation - brilliant route, so glad to finish it off the session after I fell whilst clipping the chains (as that's the kind of near miss that can lead to horrible self-perpetuating failure).
dead-heat between Last Action Hero and Mighty Fine Ass - two perhaps under-rated routes with really good, sustained and tough climbing.

Top three routes abroad not at Malham or Kilnsey
Slap Happy at Loup Scar - good steep 7a+ in a nice riverside setting (worth the full length soaking I got on the wade out).
Cave Route LH - a long-time ambition ever since I read Fawcett on Rock, my only regret is not making the effort to wear a pair of tiny shiny shorts, red socks, and a fake moustache (that, and not waiting for the repellent upper crack to dry properly.... )
Let the Tripe Increase, Moat Buttress - bouldering on a rope, what's not to like?

Top Spankings
Only unfinished business was Supercool at Gordale and Vorsprung at Yew Cogur - neither of which had enough time spent on to really feel like spankings,  more like "reccys"

[BAndy]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Wangatan, Secret Garden, 7B+ A lovely bit of esoterica just off the beaten track. Quality climbing made better by doing it in a session. Not the best landing on my own with two pads. The topout was protected by a pair of wellies on top of the rock beneath.

Harvey Oswald SS, Milestone Buttress Boulders, 7B+ The sitter makes a great problem even better. Thought I'd done it in a few goes but I got over-excited having latched the jug on top and kicked the rock behind as I topped out.....back around. Thankfully it went in a couple more goes.

Two Rails to Dome/Danny's Wall, Fionnphort, Mull, 6B? Couldn't find any info on this one other than a mention and a photo on the other channel of an indirect version at 5+ or so. A brilliant highball with an awkward mantel move at half height, an elephant's arse topout and a distant sloping landing. Can't wait for the 3rd edition of the Scottish bouldering guide.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Having only been abroad once in 2016, I luckily managed a few problems in the Buttermilks on an aid climbing trip.

Iron Man, Buttermilks, 6B Fun sideways rail shuffling. Nice to flash a classic.
Buttermilk Stem ss, Buttermilks, 6B Fun shoulder-busting sitter.
Easy Grit, Buttermilks, 6C Not grit and not easy.

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK

The Arete, New Mills Tors, E3 5b Run-out, slightly suspect rock, steep, big holds, big smile.

Jeffrey's Dyke, Sgurr Mhic Coinnich, Isle of Skye, Diff Utterly classic multipitch with my dad.

Sirplum, Cheedale, E1 5b Finally got round to soloing it. Mega. I had only ever seconded the main pitch before.

That's His, Hartington Dale Roof, E4 6b/7A+ Very esoteric but very satisfying. I went looking for rock in the dale in May 2015 but didn't walk far enough to find this so I missed out on the first ascent. Never mind. Quality highball roof action followed by an XS-grade topout up steep grass. A brilliant experience on my own at 7.30am with two pads and a steep slope of nettles below.

Top three sport winter routes UK

No sport climbing this year so will do winter routes instead (all on Skye).

White Wedding, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Isle of Skye, IV One off the dream list. An unrepeated Mick Fowler classic from 1986 which saw its second and third ascents within a few days of each other in February. I made the fourth (and possibly first solo) ascent on 27th February. 100m of ice with the crux at the top, followed by lovely snow runnels to the summit.

Ice Trap, Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, Isle of Skye, III and Kibby's Route, Sgurr Dearg, Isle of Skye, III
More fantastic ice in a brilliant winter season on Skye.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Royal Arches, Yosemite, 5.7 A0 Classic.

The Prow, Washington Column, Yosemite, C2+ My first big wall aid route. Hard work, great fun. Fixed the first pitch, went back down to the valley restaurant for a cheeseburger, then slept at the base. Climbed over two days with a portaledge stop halfway. Topped out in the dark and had a fire and beer to finish. Or so we thought....the 'walk-out' in the morning was harder than the route!

Moonlight Buttress, Zion, Utah, C1 Aid climbed over two days with a portaledge for maximum enjoyment. Would be an impressive free solo due to a lot of it being off-fingers cracks. Props to Salt Lake Eric for doing it aid solo on his third try.

Top three two new routes/problems put up

The Kids Are Alright ss, Houndkirk Tor, 7A Only one new eliminate move added to an existing eliminate but it's a fun problem at a nice little venue.

Crystal Eyes, Burbage North, 7A+ I'm particularly pleased with this one. An obvious gap, not eliminate, fun moves and a spicy finish.

Top Spankings

Cuillin Winter Traverse Been trying to do this with my dad for years. He couldn't go when it was in good nick in 2016 so I went up there on my own but couldn't bring myself to do it without him. White Wedding was an excellent consolation.

Old Friends, Stanage Backed off it in 2010, backed off it in 2016. Pumpy, reachy, hard, brilliant. I don't want to ruin it by padding it so it may be a while till I do it if at all.

The Nose, Yosemite, C2 I like to think we'd have finished it if it wasn't as rammed as The Works on a wet weekend. That many climbers in one place is not my idea of fun.

[Wood FT]

Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:

Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:

The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.

Hey where did you stay for Baring head? Might check this place out before the ferry as the rock looks great

[JackAus]

101 days on rock. Not too bad.

Best 3 problems Aus.
Just noticed they are all aretes and all at uncommon crags......

Pickles' Arete V7/8, Lorna Pass, Sydney.
Just fantastic. I think one of the best problems in Sydney. Wild moves on holds that are all surprisingly tough to hold.
This took me 3 sessions whereas Mick's Arete only took 1...




Mick's Arete V7/8, Lara St, Central Coast.
Doesn't look like much but climbs fantastically. Burly as hell too...... And I nearly fell off the top out. Known for being tough for the grade. Good session birthday tick.




Jungle Cat V6, Mt Kiera, Wollongong.
Great technical moves! That sloper eats all your chalk...




Best 3 problems NZ.

Ode To Joy V1, Quantum Field.
The classic highball. Great moves too!!!

Small Fry V5, Wuthering Heights
Great moves overlooking the other fields. Got a fantastic shot of Monkey Boy on it.

Drop Out V8, Quantum Field.
Hardest send of the trip, not the best problem... Tough little 3 mover (then into the stand start V1....)


Best 2 things put up.
Same as last year, put up more but not noteworthy.

Look To The West ~27 (7c), Big Red, Nowra.
Finally. 44 sessions starting in Sept 2013... Gradewise, I honestly have no idea and it hasn't had a repeat yet, so still have to wait. However the 3 move crux felt V7/8. Work that out...
So fucking glad to top it.






Apparently They Can V5/6, Bomaderry Creek, Nowra.
Couple moves into a dyno. Tried it a bunch back in 2013 but couldn't hold the catch. Got back on it and did it 3rd go. Great to finish it off.




Top spankings.

Rocket Man V9/10, Frontline, Sydney.
As usual. Actually didn't try it much this year because of mildly fucked fingers all winter.

If The Shoe Fits V8, Frontline, Sydney.
Low end of Rocket Man.... Just kept falling off the cut again.

Think Tank V4, Quantum Field, NZ.
Got very very angry on this.......

Rave Heart V8, HMC, Gramps.
Got a blood blister on my pad. Hard to crimp through that........

All in all, a good year.

[cjsheps]

That DWS looks amazing!

[Thomnomnom]

Only bouldered this year - one aim of 2017 is to vary my climbing more.

Top Three UK Ascents

Hitchhiker's - Kyloe In
Dog Eat Dog -Bowden Doors
Mugsy SS - Dumbarton Rock

I didn't get as much done in the UK as I would have liked. Mugsy Sit was a long and bloody battle for me and Dog Eat Dog was a memorable sketchfest.

Top Three Ascents Abroad

Worst Case Scenario - Joe's Valley
Attention Chef d'Oeuvre - Font
Bowling Pin SS - Buttermilks

Making up for a poor domestic showing, I traveled loads last year. Worst Case Scenario was pulled out the bag on my third session, sticking the crux felt miraculous and I was shitting myself on V1 top out for fear of falling (the crowd had already cheered my "success" and tuned away. The pressure is high.) Attention Chef d'Oeuvre was a highlight of a sweaty summer Font trip, enjoyable to work out the tricky beta ground up, and sent above one pad. Bowling Pin felt like a miniature Buttermilks experience, pulling onto a slabby top out and feeling high (it's not really).

Top Spankings
About four sessions on a V7 in Joe's. Scouring Mountain Project for beta but only getting cryptic comments like "easy when you know how" and "I'll let you work out the awesome beta yourself". I never did.
Trying Cortomaltese in 25C. Skiting off slopers 1000 times.
Everything, everything, in Joshua Tree.

[nai]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Iain's Roof - B South - Apart from starting in a constricted pit, being eliminate, dabby, scrittley, having a poor landing and being green most of the year this is one of the best problems at the grade out there.
DeExtended Reverse Gorilla Doors - bit of an endurance test I've tried pre-season in previous years.  First confirmation that the training plan was working.
Ten Inch Zombies - nails, nails, nails, nails, click, tick..


Top three boulder problems, abroad
Duel Dans La Lune - slim pickings from Font this year, there in May when it rained for three days solid. Had wanted to try Rudeboy for years, with a crucial hold damp this was a decent consolation prize.
Red 4 Les Bossons - Font in a nutshell, but in Chamonix. Just a shame about the drilled starting hold.
Tourne Ta Main - Col Des Montets. Well named.

Top two trad routes/soloes UK
Five Finger Exercise - one that got away (or I was scared of it's reputation) years back. Just Brilliant, hung off the flake not wanting to top out and for it to finish.  Would have tried to lace it and fallen off years back.
Perseus - not a great idea in full sun at 25c though.   Lesson (re)learned.


Top three five sport routes (redpoint)
Call of Nature / Why Me? - both routes I'd tried a few times previously without success until I signed up for a Lattice assessment & plan. Ended up succeeding on both early in the year.

Obscene Gesture - not for the quality of the climbing, of course, but the circumstances. Just couldn't do the move at the obscenity until it clicked once then I redpointed it about 15 minutes later totally blowing out of my arse for 2/3rds of it. Even forgot to clip the last which would have been close from the top moves. Best fight of the year, pretty much off for move after move after move

Body Machine - Had got the whole route wired but couldn't do the bottom wall and was resigned to take the tick from the break, then an off-the-cuff remark suggesting it was too technical for me spurred me into working it out.
With the start still dry it seemed daft not to try another over that side and it was a bonus to get Proud Whore a few sessions later, hasn't got the history but possibly a better, more balanced route.

Top three sport routes (OS)
Open Gate - remember looking across right at the rockover knowing that if the next holds weren't good I was off.....
Cairn - another that I've been saving for the onsight for years and another close call, nearly came to grief being too complacent before attaining the feature.  Added bonus of never having to back to Harpur Hill..
Nice One Masson - this would be *** if the rock was better.

Top 3 spankings disappointments
Mad Dogs - this one wasn't worth the wait, fiddly gear, short lived difficulties and a guide book description that gives everything away just when doubt might get to you.
Croton Oil - Took nearly 30 years to do it and I'll probably get run out of town but I could wait another 30
Cornice - twat only dried as summer hols started and was wet again by the time they'd finished.

[Wil]

Top three trad routes UK
Godzilla, Rhoscolyn
A Few Dollars More, Old Man of Hoy - Roaring Forties was great too, but this route was cool for the impenetrable fog that had come down that day. It started to clear when we were on top.


The Bardsey Ripple, Lleyn. Looks utterly bonkers, climbs very pleasantly.

Top three sport routes UK
Face Race, LPT.
I did nothing of any note on sport this year, a bunch of low 7s that might be worth a star, but failed on anything else good!

Top three routes abroad
Just one trip, but it was a good one! Finally made it to Greenland.
Grmoland, Ketil Pyramid - Some horribly chossy easy bits for 3 pitches at the start led to a fantastic HS traverse. No idea if this had been repeated before.


The Bad Man from Bodie, Half Dome, Tasermiut - Our new route. 5 star experience, and the climbing was at just the right level.


First 10 pitches of War and Poetry, Ulamertorsuaq. The best pitches of the trip, would have been nice to make it to the Black Heart Ledge, but this was the last day of the trip and we just wanted to have a pleasant time!


Top Spankings
Night Glue, LPT. After getting Face Race second go, I could barely touch this! A different sort of fitness which I certainly lacked this year.
Non C'e Due Senza Tre, Nalumasortoq. We had high hopes that this might go, even if spread over a few attempts. In reality the walk in destroyed us and we didn't stand a chance. We climbed slowly and bailed before we even got to the hard pitches.

[Hoseyb]

Top three boulder problems, UK
Foam party 7A+so this is what 7A+ is..
The Lines Slab 6B+!forgotten classic
Harris ' Arete 6A bit of history
Top three trad routes
Only did one. Wendigo at Red walls,  it was ace.
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Bertleman Slide 6C+! The end of a long patioing project
53Rd & 3Rd 6A!!the one that I'd previously bravely ran away from.
Troubles braids 6B! A chance find.
Top Spankings
All my ongoing projects..

[stokesy]

Another excellent year, only been in the UK for a month and only bouldered this year so will tweak the categories a bit:

Top 3 boulder problems, New Zealand:

The Tower, Baring Head - A 7 metre overhang with the f6B crux right near the top and likely to result in a shocker of a fall if you blew it. One of the best highballs at a crag packed with them.

Hey where did you stay for Baring head? Might check this place out before the ferry as the rock looks great

I was living in Wellington for a year so it was my local crag. If you want somewhere closer, there's a nice campground at Catchpool Valley (in Rimutaka Forest Park). It's a great crag up to about v6. Let me know if you want any more info/recommendations.

[36chambers]

Top three boulder problems UK, Yorkshire
Dialectics - because it felt good to try really hard
Red Baron Roof - A rare treat of having no idea how to do the hard moves to topping it out 30 minutes later.
One Man and his Dogmas - Good team scenes, good height, scary pop to the top.

Top three boulder problems UK, non-Yorkshire
Bus Stop - I don't know why but I just love the move off the left heel. And it felt surprisingly spicy topping out above two badly placed mats without a spotter
Inaudible Vaudeville - because board style climbing is the best
Stretch and Mantel - no hands position pre stretch(/pop) was excellent

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Le Carnage - because it made my feel like a hero.
Sesame Street, Squamish - techy excellence.
The Fuzz/Mantra/The Bulb/Baba Hari Dass/everything else in Squamish

Top three sport routes UK
Smouldering Globulars of Lust - First of the grade, practically the only sport climbing I did this year and it went first RP.

Top Spankings
Gibb's Cave, Squamish - should have flashed it, then proceeded to waste two half days trying it in bad conditions and not doing it. I still think it's soft for 7B. Why was I climbing it in the sun? I'm such a punter.
Worm World Cave, Squamish - completely shutdown. Maybe stuck the first move 4 times out of 50 goes. Learnt an important lesson about trip fatigue.
Crimpy Roof - Only had one session this year, but it makes the cut because it is the only time my good friend burnt me off on something. I'm just not built for this bloc.
Rubbish Secret Link-up Project - Thought I'd do it in a session, 5/6 sessions later and I'm just as close as I ever was. Estimated grade has slowly crept up, but unfortunately it'll be much easier for the taller folk so will have to keep it low, if I ever do it.

[TobyD]

Plenty of good inspiring stuff from everyone! Keep them coming.

Wil, Greenland looks amazing! Better weather than Sicily anyway...

My 2016 (up to June anyway)

top 3  foreign OS
Ying Yang & Nasenbar 7c, Turkey. Amazing tufas, long, long pitches, great place.
Todos Los Caminos 7b+, Wildside, Sella.

top foreign RP
Medierrano 8a Wildside Sella: so nearly done within an hour or getting on it, but went much better second redpoint.
Chasing the dinosaur 7c, costa blanca: a great anti-my style route, big holds basic, thuggy. great fun.
La putita de millau 8a sella wildside: a bit eliminate and easy for the grade even if you are strict, but great flowy climbing,

Top UK RP
Defcon 3 8a, Gordale
Exit to Eden 7c+, Kilnsey

Top 3 spankings
The Groove 8a+, Malham; although i almost ticked it about an hour before i rendered myself incapable of climbing for a long time.
tirali valent 8a+, wildside sella: i'd like to think it was conditions really, too warm on those crimps! wanted to go back this winter...
s-klasse 7b+, turkey: an OS mega battle, and fell off about 6 feet below the belay on a nearly 40m pitch absolutely spent.

[haydn jones]

2016 in a nutshell

Top three boulder problems

Keen Roof 8B

Needed to seriously up my finger strength for this one and so begun a batch of finger boarding in the winter, the first time I actually did what I would consider “training” in over 2 years. 12 board sessions later and my fingers felt like steel and Keen went down in just a couple of sessions. Worked out new knee bar beta on it though which definitely stretches the 8B grade but I’ll take it whilst I still can.



Fat Lip 8B

Nice one to Noble on working out the new beta on this Mclure test piece, definitely can’t imagine ever doing this the original way, took a lot of sessions, ended up doing it in less than ideal conditions with a wet starting hold and left me scratching my head at the grade.



Cornelius 7C

Last year I did Cornelius’ neighbouring route Thumbalina which also made the top three list and this year I went back for the real event, took 3 sessions in total (1 last year 2 this year) absolutely terrific (terrific breaks down into terrifying and fantastic which is an apt description of the climb I feel) This is an absolute must do climb on anyone’s list in the world, truly world class.



Honourable mentions

Amarna, Panopticon(only just done on new years day!),walk on by, pump up the Valium(can’t believe this isn’t more popular I thought it was brilliant), 36chambers sit.

Top three sport routes

Kabaah 8c+

Brilliant early Christmas present, the tor delivers again! This season is flippin’ unreal Its still dry in January!  This has got to be one of the best feelings I’ve ever had from doing any climb, totally euphoric.
 
www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/hadyn-jones-keeps-his-psyche-and-gets-kaabah.html

Sean’s roof 8b+

5 years ago I rocked up at Blackwell dale and there was a chap there climbing Sean’s roof, it just seemed mind bogglingly impossible at the time having only ever climbed 7b and was one of the first hard things I ever saw someone climbing in person. Since then this has been on my todo list and this year I was able to succeed being spurred on my Polish Dave to try it.

Ape Index 8b+

Really happy to do this one, a Steve McClure test piece that remained unrepeated for 15 years then in 1 day it gains 2 ascents from myself and Jon Clark, I foresee it becoming a popular 8b+ now in the future.



Honourable mentions

8b+: Mecca(No knees!)
8b: Rage, Predator, Barbarossity, Waddage, giant haystacks, magnetic fields, Austrian oak, zeke the freak, body builder, Devonshire arms(nice to do this one as it was on my top spankings list last year)
8a+:  Kumquat, Mid ledge spread, Connect 5, albatrossity, G.B.H, In Brine, Overnight Sensation, Tollbar, Energy vampire, fowl play
8a:  zoolook, the spider, the crucifixion(much better than the prow),
7c+: the maximum, Toys for the Boys, A vision of loveliness, Yoot’s Manoeuvre,

Top New routes

The White Knuckle Shuffle 8a+

Wow, what a find, as soon as I saw it I Knew I had to inspect it, a completely unclimbed blank section of wall in the peak surely I must be dreaming! There can’t be many projects of this quality left in the peak. As soon as I was done with Kumquat I already knew I would be back and convinced Jon Clark to help me bolt it so back we both went and my best creation to date was born! The rock was of impeccable quality with only one hold in an 18meter section breaking this is surly unheard of for peak lime! Destined to be 8b (harder than kumquat) but after the hold broke, I glued it back on as similar as possible which I managed except for one difference there was now a thumb catch which made a fair amount of difference to the hold. Down to 8a+ it went and probably for the better, it will be even more popular!



Tributary 8a+

My only other first ascent this year (not counting boulder links) it provides a nice counter diagonal to that was the river. A more sustained version of rapid city, basically does a much harder start to get to the top of rapid city, which you must then do. Beefy but luckily the start boulder and finish boulder is split by a large jug which makes the grade questionable.

Top training links

Staminaboys (original) 8c+/9a

The big link, did this thing twice this year, once with the reach method then returned to finish via the proper drop down method. Was so sure it was 9a right up until I did it and it went without much fuss, again leaving me scratching my head. Either way took a further 10 sessions on top of doing the reach method before succeeding on this McClure test piece.

Ben’s into mecca 8c

Bad skin called for more training links and this was a perfect one, good holds all the way no rat crimps in sight! Felt pretty steady.

Top spankings

Mutton bustin’

Fuck this thing to eternal hell. Really hurt my ankle in the starting heel toe cam and dropped the finish 3 times in one session then became wet.

Make it funky

Hmm can’t get that annoyed with this one as the climbing is really good, it was my own stupid fault for not using the anti-hydral correctly ended up giving me about 7 splits and after 7 sessions on it still hadn’t succeeded, despite the fact it should have gone on the third. Definitely will be back to finish it though ( At the time of writing, 2nd Jan , I looked across to it and couldn’t believe my eyes! It is dry potentially may still happen this season!)