[Kingy]

Top three boulder problems, UK

36 Chambers Sit 8A, Tremeirchion
Hatchatrocity 8A, Parisella's Cave
Lou Ferrino sans Pocket 8A, Parisella's Cave

Top three boulder problems, abroad

None

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

None

Top three sport routes UK

The Quick Fixe 8b, Kilnsey
La Connection 8b, Kilnsey
Four Door Dostoyevsky 8a+, Cheedale Cornice

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

White Wedding 8b+, Smith Rock
Lourdes 8a, El Chorro
Churning in the Ozone 8a, Smith Rock

Top three new routes/prolems put up

None

Top Spankings

Just Do It 8c+, Smith Rock - 2 trips this year in Spring and Autumn resulted in a lot of progress but no cigar. Getting shut down by a 2 finger pocket crank on the upper crux. A replica has been built of this move and training plans laid for a rematch in the autumn!
True North 8c, Kilnsey - wet rock stopped play prematurely in mid August just as I had broken through to the last move for the first time. Hopefully this year will be drier.

[jimmykay]

Top three boulder problems, UK
The Alliance, Burbage South. I actually thought I was going to die at the top. Panic set in from the pocket up, which was about the same time I stopped using my feet.
Lizard King, Cromlech-ish. 10minute walk up hill from the roadside boulders and you're rewarded with gems like this?
Lou Ferrino, Parisellas. I put it off for years. Rightful classic - excellent. I thought the sans pocket eliminate was equally decent.

Top three boulder problems, Font
Big Golden, Cuvier Rempart. This was one of the - I wish I could climb that - kind of lifetime ambitions I set myself when I first started climbing. Brilliant.
Fata Morgana, Coquibus. Basic as fuck.
El Poussif, Isatis. Classic font climbing on crazy sculpted rock.

Top three one sport route and two boulders on a rope UK
Realm of Chaos, Wallsend. I really really enjoyed this climb. Every single inch of it kept me interested. At the top of my UK sport routes.
Why Me?, Cheedale. Thuggy and almost worth wadding through the freezing cold river.
Hall of Mirrors, The Cuttings. Thuggy.

Top two sport routes, Spain
Mar de Ortigas, Desplomilandia. I was psyched out of my mind to clip the chains on this. I felt like I snatch victory from the jaws of defeat. Spent about 5 minutes shaking out on each hold for the last few minutes. I may have let out a small victory whoop.
Poema de Roca, Frontales. How much fun is this? Excellent!

Top Spankings
Roof of the Baby Buddha, Betws. Why won't the heel stick? Why?!
Mussel Beach, LPT. I had another bash at this, and I failed again (granted it was too cold, but I went back a couple of times after and psyched myself out and didn't get on it. Weak)

[cjsheps]

Top Sport Climbs: I have no shame in saying that my top 3 are all from a 3-week trip to Rodellar.
- Mal de Amores: Ticked off a route that felt too hard during last year's trip. Doing it so quickly was so unexpected that I only wore a kneepad on the low-crux side and had to change sides on route. Memorable!
- Kings of Metal. Another unexpected fast tick. One of the few times I've felt borederline heroic while climbing was on those amazing crux moves.
- Philipe Cuisinere. My first 8b, did 5th burn. Felt impossible a year ago. Basically did it twice in a day after I slipped out of a kneebar on the victory-lap finish.

Top Sport Climbs Not in Rodellar
- Palace of Swords, Foxhole: Really great to tick off an old nemesis. Unexpected, given that I'd worked the last 4hrs at Boardmasters with little sleep.
- Cannonade, Shipwreck Cove: Another past spanking put in its place. 2nd ascent.
- The 7b/+ at Regina in Terradets. I mean, it's just fucking amazing.

Top Non-sport Climbs
- Ejector Seat, Diablo (DWS). Such a memorable bounce to the tufa.
- Kitten Claws, North Pembroke (Trad). My favourite route from getting into trad over the summer. I've fallen back in love with climbing!
- Trust, The Roaches (bouldering). Tufa stamina boy climbed a slab!

Top Spankings
- Every boulder or bouldery route I've tried since coming back from Spain. I mean seriously, it's only now that I'm starting to feel less completely shit at climbing.
- Achilles, Shipwreck Cove. I was expecting to pull on, find it fairly steady and do it with some effort. Instead, it felt harder than ever before, and I gave up without even dogging to the top. More oomph required.
- Every Cat is Black, Diablo. Why the heck didn't I do "the" move?

[BRidal]

Top Boulder problems UK
Tsunami - Never thought I would be able to do the crouch let alone this. Finally feel i'm making progress on peak lime, still can't do the press though...
Renegade Master - Its renegade... Pooed myself on the top to make it extra memorable.
Full Power - Probably the most time I have spent on a boulder, very satisfying to finish off, only half the tick though.

Top Boulder problems abroad
Riverbed - First of the grade and pretty much a dream tick, even if it is the softest 8b ever.
Atresie -Went super quick and is amazing. More significantly, did this along with Tristesse and Big boss in a session to complete the big 5.
La platte -Its the hardest climb in the world and anyone who says otherwise is wrong.

Top routes
I only did 3 and they were all on peak lime and therefore a bit shite.

Top trad routes
My balls aren't big enough for this stuff anymore...

Top spankings
The press - Its definitely impossible.
L'apparement Very nearly did it at Easter, came back at Christmas and couldn't get as far, need more friction (strength).
Steppenwolf - Tried incredibly hard on it and got kinda close, but ran out of time. Will be back.

[haydn jones]

I only did 3 and they were all on peak lime and therefore a bit shite.

  

[thirtytwosrule]

First time replying to this list. Despite having some fairly bad back and hip (sciatic) problems this year and taking quite a bit of time out I have had one of the best years climbing!

Top three boulder problems, UK

Tetris - This was my big winter goal for 16/17 and did at start of deceember 2nd session. Very happy!
Famous Grouse - Big one for me as it was one when I was growing up that "only really good people from Sheffield will ever do that!" Felt Significant!
Velvet Crab - Tried a couple of time before and felt hard took a big lob off the top and with a knackered back that was quite scary. Composed myself got back on it and executed it properly!

Top three boulder problems, abroad - Didn't do much went to font with a hurt leg came back with a hurt back!

Attention Chef - Wanted to do for ages. Not really my style very happy to get it done!
La Baleine - Had tried before really love the moves on it!
Fosse Ailleurs - Really good climb actually never heard of it before getting on it, ticked really quickly.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK - This may be a few more as I seem to have had a year of ticking life time goals!

Old Man of Hoy Original Route - Just an amazing experience and a life long goal. Done in under 24 hrs from Sheffield in a 3! The whole trip adds to this route though - unforgettable!

A dream of White Horses - What a route at that grade. Outrageous!

Wuthering - Walked away from it so many time because it was too hot, too windy, too cold, too sunny, too Saturday, i was too rusty etc etc. Got on it and loved every seccond of it!

Gogarth - First route on Gogarth main cliff and first route on anglesey - Felt like i was a real climber after this!

Promontory Traverse - A route as a kid I thought I would never be good enough to lead or second. Being a perpetual VS leader when I finally did it one evening after work I just thoroughly enjoyed it!

The Rasp - 3rd go ground up and god I had to fight for it! Never tried so hard on a route and made it up. Very Happy!

Commander Energy - Again walked away from this many times in the past did this year July 30th on my birthday and it was ace!

Snakes and Ladders - Day after Dream of white horses it was raining and horrible. How to make the best of a bad situation! Great fun day out!

Top Winter Routes

Only did a few really but:

Tower Ridge - Another bucket list route and boy does it deserve it's reputation. Done in pretty foul weather but was just incredible!
Aonach Eagach Ridge - Wanted to do it since the first time I drove into Glen Coe. Big day out harder and longer than expected in beautiful weather but with very soft fluffy snow made it hard work!

Top Spankings

My Apple - Still can't do it. 5 sessions maybe? Nails, never 7a+ Brick hard with whatever sequence you use. I've tried them all!

Brad's Rib - Injured my leg just before going to Font and twinged my back again! Twice!

Big Jim - Hmmmmmmm

Lady Big Claques - Hurt my back lobbing off the top and also nearly broke my wrist (Doc said the x-ray 2 months later was satisfactory, still don't really know what that means)

[shark]

Top boulder problems

Last boulder problem of the year comes first to mind. Mine was Acid Reign 6C at Rivelin. I had never bouldered at Rivelin as I’d formed the impression that it was all green, obscure and with bad landings. We only went because it was claggy in the Peak and so instead of having a miserable time at a world class crag we had a great few hours in the Winter sunshine at Rivelin. Acid Reign was a tease and Mark figured out the top move first. 5 minutes drive from my house and I never knew it existed.

King of Drunks 7a Wavelength Couldn’t do the sit start in 2014. Came back for a week of glorious weather with Tommy in May and at first it felt like I couldn’t do the sit again at first without loads of moves but then found I could do it the basic powerful way (and TPM couldn’t!). Great views, superb rock and the golf ball hold.

The Shepherd 6c+ Roaches Skyline Another trip out with the boys and to satisfy their preference for novelty locations took me back here for the first time in 20 years. Biting cold wind in an exposed location with fab views. Lovely rock and a loooong sketchy reach. Very satisfying.

Top new boulder problems

Walrus 7A+ Rue Des Masques. Summer trip to the Braincon area of the Alps by which time Tommy had gone off roped climbing. On the back of some vague beta on the web we quested and bushwhacked around the conglomerate boulders below the sport crag Rue Des Masques. I stumbled across an attractive 30 degree overhanging boulder with a great looking central line. It took us a second visit to do it with Ben getting it first naming the problem after the large grey textured stone in the middle which reminded him of a walrus. Further googling suggested the stand may have been done before but maybe not from sitting as we did.  Vid below.

Parapet Buttress eatswood Proof that even in the Peak there is still new stuff to do right under your nose – in this case right by the approach path and untouched. All it took was 30minutes of bramble clearing and brushing to yield two decent burly 6b traverses. Vid below   

Top sport routes

On the Road 7a Lorry Park Quarry Seeking shade on the hottest day of the year this was an unexpected treat. If you like funky thought provoking moves and bridging like I do, then you’ll love this.

Los Caminantes 7c – Knew nothing about the route except a German climber at the crag said it was good and that if you could do the bottom 7b pitch then the you could do the 7c extension – 50meters in total. The bottom 7b pitch was hard and the extension required fighting for every inch using half remembered offwidth techniques using armbars and cunning to gradually udge up shallow tufas which seemed to go on forever. A great start to the year.   

Walking with Barrence 7b It pains me to recommend a Moulding route but it was a good and intense route and it was a pleasure to go back to the Eglwyseg valley after so many years. Typical pretentious route name from Moulding 

Top trad routes

Ceramic E4 Chee Tor Big up to Rob Greenwood for instigating a crag clean up. Ity almost felt like 1985 again. Pleased to have got back enough into trad mode to repeat this classic though had to switch my brain off to do the runout.

Crib Goch – Does this count as a rock climb? Rest day outing with Tommy and my first view of the Snowden Horseshoe. Magic. Pic below.


The Brasser E2 First trip to Fairhead! Been meaning to go for decades. I was scared getting back into trad climbing. The clag meant that the west side of the headland was grim so we headed over to the the other side and found it surprisingly dry and had the cliff to ourselves. I warmed up on this and whilst we did harder routes on the trip that were probably better but I enjoyed this the most as it was easy enough to romp up without being scared.

Roadrunner E6 High Tor – I've always been a bit dismissive about this route partly because it is a strange line but probably more because I kept failing on it over the years. Now Ive done it I think its brilliant (funny that). Really had to pull the stops out on the A6 headwall above old pegs when I was pumping badly. Could so nearly have been another failure   

New routes
High Tor has been a long been my stomping ground and I have been putting up new routes there for 30 years. The two new ones Ive done this year have been up with the best.

Big Cigar 7c Highlight of the year for me (apart from Tommy doing Raindogs) Never underestimate how much effort is required to do a substantial new route and big up to Conners for his support and Mike Hutton for the photo. The hanging pocketed rib was obvious every time I abseiled down the crag from the Debauchery abseil tree but figuring out a suitable start wasnt. It was Neil Foster’s suggestion to access it from Castellan itself (and preserving the independence of his own route!)  I had virtually flashed Castellan in 1987 with Seb but it was a skin of the teeth job and I felt sick from the effort by the time I got to the belay. It still felt desperate in 2016 -Conners certainly thought so (French 7b) and you still need to have enough left for 40 feet some of the best pocketed climbing in the Peak (not that is saying much!). Just before doing it I happened to meet Steve Bancroft at a party of Seb’s and chatted to him for the first time. He recounted how John Allen and he had freed Castellan as teenagers. The ascent was spread over two days which led Geoff Birtles to describe it in Crags magazine as a “good effort but no big cigar!”. There is a great account of their shenanigans by John Allen in Extreme Rock. It was unfortunate that I wasn’t able to make it a fully bolted sport route but most of the trad gear can be placed on abseil and it is very easy to top rope the upper rib from the Debauchery abseil tree.

Big Cigar by TheUKBShark, on Flickr
[/quote]

Dementia E5 6a, 6a, 5c. I first conceived of a big counter diagonal running at a lower level to Delicatessen back in the 80’s and on a winters day persuaded Seb out. I remember there was snow on the ground and I deliberately rubbed my hands in it to get hot aches so I could get the blood flowing to my fingertips once the pain had subsided. We abseiled onto the Lyme Cryme belay and I quested rightwards onsight at E1 or E2 to a hanging rope with a rucsac and thermos in the Original Route groove. Once Seb joined me I madfe a few attempts to swing around the arete into Tales before calling it a day. the route would be too disjointed to make it worthwhile and I never recorded the pitch I did because it was meh. In 2013 I did a couple of routes starting up Lyme Cryme which then climbed over the bulge of Bromptons Cocktail before taking different lines above. I later realised that I could use the start of the right hand one to connect up into my old traverse making a long hard E5 and suitable companion to the next pitch crossing Tales and Bastille at a similar grade. My first attempt with Bonjoy was an abysmal failure. I was strong enough to keep reversing the Bromptons bulge but not got the head to do the runout above. Fortunately Jon was willing to come back and I managed to MTFU and do it but not without some wobbles. The pitch crossing Tales was much shorter and exquisite pocket climbing and I didn’t want it to finish.     

Top spankings 
This is the category where I am consistently world class
 
The Oak 8b Malham. Yet again been dealt out the mother of all spankings. There was one session in the Spring and another in the Autumn when I came close but it somehow slipped between my fingers. Again. This year it will be different – he says. 

El Guide Direct E3 and Rembrandt Pussyhorse E3 Craig Cwm Glas Bach
My trad head has been a fragile thing for many years requiring a gradually build-up of confidence or the motivation of a new route. Physically I’m a far stronger and better climber in every other way than when I did E5’s as a matter of course in the 80’s and 90’s but now those routes are too terrifying. I managed a build up this year but it was a house of cards and my decline at the end of this summer was ignominious. Fortunately only Nick was there to see my loss of savoir faire on a cold November day in the Pass. I've not been able to talk about it till now.

eatswood Reverse 7B+/7C (8a/8a+) Repeatedly dropped the last couple of moves over a number of sessions. It finishes on a slopey ledge (despite what Dave says) and the ultimate fail was when I got the ledge with my right hand and then went to cross through to match it with my left and somehow managed to knock my right wrist off mid move. Vid below. Fortunately I managed it on a subsequent visit but not before a dabbed ascent.

[Gus]

Yay it's that time of year again! Good work everybody! Also good to see some first time posters on this thread, get psyched!!

I had an awesome year, so was lots and lots to choose from, but if I had to narrow it down:

Top 3 trad uk

"Gecko Blaster" E7 6c, Shining Cliff: Another one ticked off my "mates rates" ticklist, and yet another one from that man Seb Grieve! My spotter/extra pad supplier Ben had run out of time and was about to have to head home, so had to step up and dispatch despite feeling a bit rushed. First time pushing it high up with the new hip so was a bit nervous, as it turns out there were no dramas!

"Cockblock" E5 6b, clogwyn y grochan: been on the list for years, ended up slipping over whilst belaying Howard on "quantum jump" and totally fucked my ankle just before, however the desire to do it was strong so I just got on it before it swelled up/stiffened up fully and somehow managed to onsight it. Didn't find the climbing too bad but was absolutely terrified, you're definitely trusting a lot to that one or two wires!

"Reach" E2 5c, Treen, Cornwall: this was a really special one, as treen beach was one of my dads very favourite places. I saw some guys climbing in the "Charlie's Chank" area when I was a small kid, and it had always stuck in my mind. Was really nice to go back to such a special place with special memories. Emotional! Cheers dad! X

Top 3 sport uk

"GBH" 8a+, Malham: it takes a lot to make me properly project a route, but this definitely had what it takes! One of the better sport routes I've done! Took about 5 or 6 sessions and I understand why people get into projecting, as there are no questions or decisions of "where do we go today? What do we try?" It's already decided, the warm up routine is dialed, and in some ways it's less stressful!

"The sea is a brown paper bag" cheedale, 7b+/c: wanted to do this for ages, what a great route, and no pushover! Good after work scenes with good friends, as was:

"The third order" 7b, cheedale: this one was less about the route quality and more about the general scene, just a simple after work session down cheedale with cbr, no stress, good banter, and a pint of abs in the red lion afterwards of course!

Top 3 boulders uk

Andle stone wall, 7b, Stanton moor: after a year off bouldering it was time to get back in the game, and this was first up. Can't believe I'd never climbed on Stanton moor before, what a great venue! Great problem!

"Brass monkeys" 7c, stanage: wouldn't want to have any less reach for this one! Taking that cut loose with your feet all the way in the back of the roof takes some serious beans! One of a trio of ascents that day so always good group psyche scenes!

"Ron side force it" 7b/+, burbage: always good to do new moves in the burbage valley. This was at the very limit of my reach, basically having to one arm the right hand crimp! Again a really good scene with old and new friends at the crag, followed by a twilight reemergence session (and witnessing JB's "best day on grit") 2 pints in the Norfolk arms, a full works circuit, a curry and more beers, and then more beers and ranting. Dynamite!

Top 3 sport abroad

"Ourania" 7c+/8a, Kalymnos: I'd previously tried this before when my hip was pretty bad, with my wife belaying. She was belaying again this time and said she couldn't believe the difference in the way I could move. This is a great route with some sneaky beta at the top which I only figured out after dropping it right at the end a few times!

"Rumba" 7c+, dryavano monastery, Bulgaria: one of the highlights from an awesome short sharp trip to check out the climbing in there. A great, super interesting country with some great climbing. Nearly got the flash on this but just didn't quite have the minerals, and completely burnt myself out for the east of the day. Had to head back the next day and scrape up it third day on!

"Real Fight" 7c/+, dryavano, Bulgaria: a solid route at a great steep sector, with routes named in a Bruce lee theme, so right up my street! My neglected fitness was absolutely shambles so very well named!

Top 3 deep water solos

"Lotta" 7a+, ponta Garcia, Portugal: the very last route of an awesome, if eventful, trip to check out Portugal DWS. Can't believe we nearly missed this one, featuring a very low, very wet traverse in to a cool mini cave (with full "sea assisted spot " occurring!) and a ridiculously wild swing over to apex of the cave. Magic!

"Fergal Sharks" 7b+, Ingrina, Portugal: another cracker, added by non other than Adam wainwright! I took a couple of rides on this due to breaking holds, which wAs a right laugh! (Pissing yourself with laughter whilst still underwater never gets old!) apparently named after a big hammerhead that was swimming under the crag when Adam arrived! Eeeeeeek!

"Magnum" 7b, Garcia, Portugal: wow wow wow! This one is just simply outstanding! As good or better than anything in Mallorca, with a wild feet off dyno to a glory jug to finish! Well psyched to get the flash on this after others had offered themselves up to get the beta and take the splashdowns! All about the tactics

Top 3 first ascents:

Bit cheeky these as I didn't do any of them, but it was great to try, and watch mates get the first ascents of these super high quality DWS additions in Portugal, after a bit of a battle for who was going to be first up:

"Squuuuaaaawk" 7c
"Spunkey monkey" 7b+/c
"Solero" 8a: the Jewel in the crown, portugals best and hardest!

Top spankings:

The grit in general this year, need to get the flow going. Getting "out lanked" on a lot of problems!

Adrenochrome, 8a, lulworth: always good to fail on though!

"The pump" E4 6b, clogwyn y grochan. Jeeeeez, not quite the "safe and hard" challenge that I was after that day. Ended up in full on danger, and jumping off on some blindly placed, dubious cams!

Right then you 'orrible lot, that's your lot. Keep em coming!
Gus

[Reprobate_Rob]

Top three boulder problems

Tetris - Hadn't tried it for years then had a couple of sessions on it with a bunch of mates. Fully punted the top-out having got the juggy sidepull then trying to adjust for some daft reason. Went back on a speculative solo mission one evening as the sun was going down. Mint conditions, floated up it after a few warm up goes then did it again immediately after. Perfect gritstone evening!

The Mentalist - Tried on and off for while, sacked it off for a bit and did a few weeks fingerboarding. Went back one morning and warmed-up by doing the top section. Then crux bump into the pocket. The crux to top. Then bottom to top. 100% success rate for the day, so sat down, watched Mrs Reprobate crush Crazy Horses, then went to the pub. Great example of targeted training paying off.

La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!

Top three spankings

Mirf's roof - No matter what i do on this i just can't stick the 'flick' to the lip under the roof. Made even more painful by watching Mrs R repeatedly make it look piss, whilst ticking Mirf's, Burly McMirfy and Witness. Three great problems I can't do coz of that one fekkin move! 

Diversion - Came close in 2015. Went back the moment we arrived in April and dropped the last hard move. Repeated visits went backwards over the week, then by the time we returned in November the start hold had broken rendering it nails/impossible 

Symiobse - Been meaning to try this one for years. Came SO close to doing it in a session on the first day of the November trip. Back at dawn the next day, pulled on then it started raining. Then snowing. Then raining. Spent Thursday cleaning the bouldering while it was still damp then went back on Friday to watch a few other lads crush it while i repeatedly came up short on the last hard slap. Just praying no-one breaks this one before I can get back to it.

[shark]

Yay it's that time of year again! Good work everybody! Also good to see some first time posters on this thread, get psyched!!

Word 

[shark]

• Globeros en Alaska, Pared del Catalonia, Montrebei. I'm pretty sure that this is the only route I used gear on this year, even though the crux-pitch is almost entirely on fixed pro. At least the only route with removeable pro I actually completed. Full write up http://steepground.blogspot.fr/2016/03/globeros-en-alaska-7a6b-250m-mont-rebei.html

You certainly got about this year. Looks class from the photos on your blog.

[duncan]

Some people have had great years, really inspiring, thanks for taking the time to post. Mine wasn't bad at all from a climbing perspective, though most of the best bits happened in July and August.

Top three boulder problems, UK

Erm...


Top three boulder problems, abroad

White (children's) circuit - Roche aux Sabots. I can think of no better introduction to climbing. Wonderful to see the lad completely getting it. Perhaps a sign for the future.


Top three trad. routes/solos UK

A Few Dollars More, Old Man of Hoy - Roaring Forties was great too, but this route was cool for the impenetrable fog that had come down that day. It started to clear when we were on top.

That's me emerging through the mist. Even though we didn’t try our target, this was a great trip with Wil.



Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.

Forbidden Fruits - St. Govan’s East, with seankenny. Two star routes are great: often as good as the classics but more fun with less pressure and fewer expectations. This climbed really well, I was in the flow, and it was very satisfying as I’d just restarted after 4 months off.


Top three sport routes UK

Plenty of pleasant puntering at Portland. Nothing of note.


Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Excalibur - Wendenstock, with AJM. A flawed ascent but a great experience. We nearly didn’t try it at all due to iffy weather and a tight timetable, so glad to have made the effort.





Rabadá-Navarro - Naranjo de Bulnes, with hugo. It's been on my radar since 1978. A great day out.

Zagrab - Ceuse, with csl. Representing an excellent trip. Pleased to do this in good style.


Top Spankings

L'angle à Jean-Luc - Sabots. Tenuous 6C on a hot sunny day, what was I thinking. As enjoyable as a spanking gets!

Supersonic - High Tor. Mixed feelings. I was a bit overwhelmed at the prospect of a first E5 for decades. Glad to have given it a go and fallen off, shame I wasn't on it a couple of weeks earlier as I had gone off the boil. Hope to have learned from all this. Aspire to do a better job this year.

Biggest ‘failure’ was spending too much time in my comfort zone. Must try harder.

[Eddies]

Slim pickings this year 

Top three boulder problems:
Picnic Sarcastic – 7A+ – Styan – Went up to visit my best buddy who had just moved up the Kendal. Desert island boulder with a few other folk to have a laugh with... a great day.
Horror Arête 6C & Cleopatra 7A – Bridestones – A great day trip to Bridestones and Widdop. Great to go and bag a load of new classic ticks. Fought the snooze on the way back home in the car!
Andle Stone Wall – 7B - Stanton Moor – Big Ron Tick! One I’ve been wanting to return to for a long time. It was a good strength test which confirmed that my knee is fully healed.

Top sport route:
I spent the 2 weeks prior to my knee op after work at the Tor working ‘Out of my tree’… I didn’t get it dialled enough to go for the redpoint but I unlocked the moves and had a lot of fun.

Top Spankings:
I tore the meniscus in my left knee last October. Didn’t waste any time in seeing a physio and then GP / knee specialist. Had the operation to remove most of it in April.
All throughout and ever since I’ve been training hard and climbing outside as much as possible so it hasn’t set me back strength wise, just limited the type of climbs I could get on.

Anyway, I’m all fixed now and really enjoying the grit connies at the moment as well as being ridiculously psyched on several steep projects at the indoor wall 

[Luke Owens]

Being probably the weakest person to ever climb 7B and 7c this year was quite an achievement! (I can barely hang a 20mm edge 2 handed)

Top Five Boulder Problems, UK

Left Wall Traverse - 7B - The Cave

3 months of effort, from not being able to link any of it or do all the moves to doing it in a oner a week before our 2nd child was born was deeply satisfying. More like a route than a boulder problem really.



The Hitcher - 7A/+  - Roadkill Block
Great powerful roadside problem on sidepulls, did it in a few goes which was nice.

Monkey Do - 7A - Milestone Boulders
Awesome highball with he crux right at the top.

Lopan - 6C+ - Penmaenbach Boulder
Great moves on great rock, great find Doylo!

Billy Boy Arete - 6A+ - Talfarach
Big highball arete on amazing orange rock, right next to the sea in a 5* location.

Top sport route UK

Barely got to the top of any routes due to projecting and bolting...

Flowers are for the Dead - 7c - Dinbren

Put to bed after sporadically trying it for 3 years. First of the grade.



I did a couple of other easier routes but nothing of merit...

Top Two New Routes

Children of the Corn - 7b - Little Orme
About 6 shouldery gaston crimp moves in a row for the crux, techy wall climbing, brilliant!

Evergreen - 6b+ - Little Orme
Not the best route ever but an alternative to jugging out.

Top Spankings

Non-Tidal Screamer - 7c - The Diamond
Think I had 7 or 8 sessions on this in a month. Came agonisingly close falling from the very last hard move in bad conditions. Experienced for the first time on a project being hideously pumped rather than powering out. Went back after a rest and in good conditions and failed to get to a high point, sacked it off and went on a new routing mission instead...

Grand Canyon - 7b+ - Devils Gorge
Not really a true spanking due to the fact I only had a handful of goes in 2 sessions, went back twice after this and both times it was wet, I know if I had the chance to get on it I would of been shut down anyway, true anti-style route.

Visiting Raven Tor...

A2 Strains
Finally through lack of sleep and back to back sessions on the moonboard I strained my A2's on both my middle fingers at the end of the year.

Top Near Death Experiences

A couple of near death experiences on the Little Orme added to the year a bit...

First was using the pulling out rope on the Diamond without a back up every time I went then one day after I went up a fella did back up going up and the pull out rope snapped on him. It's a long way down when the tide is out...

Second was new routing on the Little Orme, After a full day bolting it had gone dark, I had no head torch and I hadn't realised how much it had rained, the ground below the crag had turned into a mud death slide, the end of the slide being a 60m drop into the sea. I had already committed to the mud before realising it was so bad, ended up being stuck on a small not so slippy bit of ground with a couple of meters of slippy mud between me and the jug out rope I sort of ran/slipped and jumped to the rope with a backpack full of equipping gear and 2 drills, thankfully I grabbed it but it was one of them horrible "do or die" moments. Actually caused me to have nightmares afterwards...

[cheque]

Good old seacliffs. Luke's not even a trad climber and he still has two near-death experiences to report.  Glad you're OK Luke. The second one sounds harrowing!

[Luke Owens]

Good old seacliffs. Luke's not even a trad climber and he still has two near-death experiences to report.  Glad you're OK Luke. The second one sounds harrowing!

Cheers 

Not a patch on what Rowland Edwards used to get up to on the Ormes back in the day but terrifying none the less!

[haydn jones]

Both of those sound terrifying. Would give me nightmares too.

[Rocksteady]

Great thread for psyche!

Top three boulder problems, UK
Didn't do much this year, didn't finish anything hard though had some good days out, especially exploring Nesscliffe.
G-Thang 6B+ at Gardoms was the best problem I actually finished, and felt easy once I did it right.
Need to get back out there this year, want to tick some 7A+s.

Top three sport routes UK
Top of the list is Nightmare Scenario at the Cuttings which was my first 7c. Took 10 goes over 4 sessions, and represented a plateau breakthrough at 7b for four years. Very very psyched to get this.
Other than that I mainly climbed easy sport in the UK this year:
Kit Kat 6b at Blacknor Central was a surprisingly great climb, and Monsoon Malabar at the same crag was fantastic at 6a.
I was also super-inspired this year by my dad, who climbed his first 8a aged 63 (Fighting Torque at the Cuttings, Portland). And followed it up with a 7c later in the year. Beast!

Top three sport routes abroad
Had a great trip to Kalymnos with my brother in September/October.
Lucky Luca at Odyssey - my first 7a+ flash, considerably beating my previous best at 6c. Belayed by Alex Megos 
Amphora 7b at Odyssey - took about 8 goes over two days and after starting confident I really began to doubt I would do it. Kept making mistakes, really suffered from redpoint pressure. But got it in the end which I usually fail to do on holiday redpoints so was very pleased.
Feta 6c at Odyssey - just really enjoyed this route, had a bit of a fight on the flash but it felt easy to repeat. Which was nice.

Top Spankings
Anything on gritstone this year - didn't climb enough to get the knack and got spanked on everything instead, particularly Mark's Roof, after starting the day feeling pretty confident on it.
Max Pax 'em in 7a at Chee Dale - managed to spend a day cocking up the crux of this in about 5 different ways, really didn't get my redpoint head in and was broken instead
Ivi 7a+ at Grande Grotta - I think I was tired, warmed down and psyched out on this - felt exhausting to dog up and even worse to strip. Blows my mind that Alex Megos campussed this!?

[Stu Littlefair]

What I like about this thread is the surprise I get when I look back at how much actually got done each year:

Top 3 Boulder Problems

Low rider

With the first of a series of illnesses almost behind me I was in a rush to get this done before the body collapsed. Straight home to bed. Excellent.

Roof of a Baby Buddha

Part of a trio of Welsh Problems climbed on short raids with Ru. Was great because we both did it, but mostly just because whole days away with Ru are what it's all about.

Back Street Mime Artist

Memorable for being one of those days where no-one else is climbing outside. Hail, snow and howling wind but it was perfect in that little hole...

Top 3 Sport (U.K.)

Vennerne and Airshow, Shipwreck Cove

Fantastic to find un-ticked routes of this quality in the U.K after all these years. A perfect weekend away.

Dominatrix

Route #23 of my 40th birthday extravaganza and the one I was really worried about. In the end it was fine, I still felt perfectly fresh and it was just dry enough...

Top 3 Sport (abroad)

Fiesta de los Biceps

Been meaning to do this for years and years. Finally did it with Jules on an epic weekend away. Didn't disappoint.

Punsola Reniu, Montserrat

Not as famous as fiesta but a fantastic route. Amazing free standing pillar and loads of history behind it. Climbed the same weekend as Fiesta...

Les Clowns, St Leger

One of those routes that should feel much easier than it did, but was all the better for being a real battle. 35m of tufa swimming, followed up by an afternoon of the real thing.

Top 3 trad

Balas, Kilnsey

An old classic I'd put off for ages. All the better for the hour I spent on a rope stripping vegetables out of the corner.

Queer Street, Chee Tor

Spent some brilliant days here thanks to cleaning efforts from Rob Greenwood and others. This was probably the best route.

The Weaver, Tremadog

See below.

Top 3 spankings

The Weaver, Tremadog

Spent hours back and forthing and couldn't figure it out to save my life. Much mirth was had at my expense. Got quite angry. Had to come back the following weekend to sort it out.

Big Issue, Pembroke

Yet Another Weekend failing to get conditions on this.

All the 8b's, France

My big goal this year was to onsight 8b. Needless to say it didn't happen, but in the space of two weeks I dropped the last moves on five or six. Much rage ensued.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jwi]

Les Clowns is an amazing route. I branched off left up to the wrong anchor, downclimbed and managed to keep my stuff together and climb up to the correct anchor. Rarely been so tired as after that.

[Duncan campbell]

Fergal Sharks" 7b+, Ingrina, Portugal: another cracker, added by non other than Adam wainwright! I took a couple of rides on this due to breaking holds, which wAs a right laugh! (Pissing yourself with laughter whilst still underwater never gets old!) apparently named after a big hammerhead that was swimming under the crag when Adam arrived! Eeeeek!

I am never going DWS in Portugal!! Fuck that!!

[turnipturned]

The numbers game was weak but the spankings are strong:

Top three boulders (UK)- felt like I did very little compared to previous years

Ill gotten gains- mega, pleased to improve my flexibility
Brownian motion- always thought this was going to be nails, it went fairly stress free
Snapdragon- probably the best I climbed in the U.K.

Top five boulders abroad

Partage- Fontainebleau- as good as it gets I suppose
Bleau sacre- Fontainebleau- never thought I would climb 8B in Font (albeit soft). End of a very good day and a happy drive home
Tostaky- Fontainebleau- new one from 2015, recommended by Noble, didn't disappoint
Vice- Rocklands- so flipping good, popular for good reason
Basic instinct- one of the best from the trip, rarely done, big walk

Top three FA's (Boulders)- only did three

Path of daggers- tintagnel- good to see a few others have enjoyed it
Diskevra- tintagnel- might have been done the day before but never written up. Starts as for purple haze then goes left. Good to do an FA in South West, came close but Newberry always nicked them before I could return.
Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun

Top route (only one)

Militia- Giggleswick- a Boulder problem

Top spankings- (basically been a year of spanking and poor head game)

Voyager sit- agonisingly close before xmas. This thing is really testing me mentally/breaking me. So much self doubt and some pretty miserable drive homes.
Bloodsport- Christmas Eve I rattled the crimp twice again. Just plain hurts but I will do what it takes
Monkey wedding- the realisation that I could possibly climb V15, came pretty close two days before I left, then got unlucky with weather.

[SA Chris]

Hammerheads won't eat you - Pathetic Sharks sharks.

Love this, so much good shit done, great for psyche.

Unfortunately my year was fucking dire due to injury, I could stretch the brief to include ski descents etc but I won't

Top three boulder problems, UK

Repeated Bad Buoys 6a SS a few times at Clochindare Bay, never gets tiresome.

Top three new routes/problems put up

Dirtbag Ballet 6b eliminate done when crucial holds were wet on the below. Great moves, great line though...

Top Spankings

Double Tap into PPE linkup. Couple of sessions on this, first screwed due to seeping holds, then when it was in good nick I promptly forgot crucial sequence and started blowing the top moves. After watching an old vid I was all ready to go back, but them I destroyed my thumb joint.

[Fiend]

Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.

It was you and your bloody down-to-earth supportiveness that overcame my doubts!! By the time I got to the last moves I had some decent gear in I think. Did I mention it was a bloody good effort on Eroica as that crux is nails (and a nice motive for doing it ).

Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).

Glad to see midgets is still going strong with the shockingly low grade trad spankings. E2 and E9 on the same list, ace

[andy_e]

Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun

What's this please?