[haydn jones]

Voyager sit- agonisingly close before xmas. This thing is really testing me mentally/breaking me. So much self doubt and some pretty miserable drive homes.
Bloodsport- Christmas Eve I rattled the crimp twice again. Just plain hurts but I will do what it takes
Monkey wedding- the realisation that I could possibly climb V15, came pretty close two days before I left, then got unlucky with weather.

Getting spanked by one of britains hardest boulders and a v15 its a tough life. 

[tomtom]

La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
.

The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? )

[turnipturned]

Corey Lewandoski- Whitehouses- some eliminated fun

What's this please?

   
Start as for Hercules: Shothole RH, Crimp LH use plinth to jump to crimp on Crazy Leg Crom with RH, finish as normal. FA who knows!

[shark]

Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).

Thanks Fiend

I retreated off it and Nick took over and led it. There is a hidden friend placement mentioned in one of the guides which I only found when following it. Did you find it?

Sorry to read that you had a bad trip to Margalef despite good preparation. 

[Oldmanmatt]

Eroica and Black Magic - Pentire, with Fiend and cheque. Great to see Fiend overcome his doubts on Black Magic. Quite a relief to see him reach the belay without slipping off the last moves as another climbing partner did, with rather serious consequences, 20 years ago.

It was you and your bloody down-to-earth supportiveness that overcame my doubts!! By the time I got to the last moves I had some decent gear in I think. Did I mention it was a bloody good effort on Eroica as that crux is nails (and a nice motive for doing it ).

Shark: Great story AND photo of your High Tor new route, very cool. BTW I found El Guide Direct pretty sketchy, that committing crux really comes out of nowhere (in August let alone bloody November).

Glad to see midgets is still going strong with the shockingly low grade trad spankings. E2 and E9 on the same list, ace

Eroica was my most memorable teenage lead. I grew up in St Tudy, a half hour by bike from Pentire. It was only E2 in those days (89) but I crapped myself on leading the second pitch. A couple years later I did Darkenbad. I loved that crag, dark, brooding, scary in one hell of a setting. Good lead on an intimidating bit of rock. I envy you, you may even have inspired me back into Trad...

Edit:
Actually now confused. Rockfax have it at E4, I remember it as E2 and that's where thecrag.com puts it too. What's the shizzle?
And dug out my 1988 edition guide! Apparently it went down on the 3rd attempt!

All posts either sarcastic, tongue-in-cheek or mildly mocking-in-a-friendly-way unless otherwise stated. I always forget to put those smiley things...

[Sasquatch]

Top three boulder problems, UK Local
Pistol Whipping v9 FA - One of the absolute best problems I've climbed. 

Oral Beast v10 - finishes with a thuggy mantel that I slowly peeled/punted from while whimpering why, why, why... glad to get er done.

Destroying My Apprentice v11 FA -


Top three boulder problems, abroad
Odins Revenge v9/10 Mt Lemmon, AZ - amazing steep compression next to a creek in an alpine forest. 

Was v8 Leavenworth, WA
Soul Train v8, Bend, OR

Top three new routes/problems put up
Anything on this boulder: 12 new lines put up



Top Spankings
Teenage kids - Nuff said
Also trying to climb/stay fit/train whilst adapting to new work/travel schedule...

[tomtom]

La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
.

The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? )

'Kinell that's a autocorrect classic. Should be crimpy!!!

[shark]

Edit:
Actually now confused. Rockfax have it at E4, I remember it as E2 and that's where thecrag.com puts it too. What's the shizzle?

The peg is no longer there

[Johnny Brown]

Top boulder problems sessions

Mushroom block, Arran. Mega session here, everything is worth doing, standout for me was the line left of Dan's new line Breakfast of champignons (aka crack project). Well worth a visit, if this was in the Churnet it'd be my favourite bit.


Breakfast of Champignons

Did all the Hen stones aretes as the sunset at the end of a great day out with a big crew. Exquisite rock.

Summer Dad club session at Tanygrisiau - great highball venue.



Two great days out at Ysgo and Talfarach for Fatneck's 40th. Perfect weather and vibes.

Also a good Burbage circuit (which was not by a long way my best day on grit but...) which might have been a points PB for the crag and gave some hope I might not be completely passed it.

Top trad climbs

Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff. 


Hardlands

Left-hand red wall. Amongst the epic stories I'd not realised this is mostly a perfect shield of golden quartzite more akin to granite, I'll be going back...

Trail of tears, Rhoscolyn Day hit from Sheffield with Dad club, about the only time this year I was actually onsighting something at a testing standard. Otherwise did too much seconding and repeating stuff I've done before.

Top winter climbs

Slightly frustrating, had some great (too good) weather which was spectacular but coupled with partner issues made for little roped climbing. Smith's route on the Ben was the highlight, done with Pat (on his first day on ice).

No sport climbs other than a couple of days in Cheedale trying Cry of despair. No FAs I can remember

Top spankings

1. Tales of Yankee Power. I can't onsight lime E5 off the couch so knew it was a slim chance, but also that I probably wouldn't have another chance to even get on one this year (see 2). Started well, then dithered; fail. Piss easy on second of course, should have trusted my instincts instead of being distracted by the chalk. There may be a metaphor for life here too.

2. Work, family as per usual. The only 'ambition' I've ever had was never to work full time, which I'm squarely failing at. If I had either time outside work or was making loads of money it might be more tolerable. The corollary is I'm sure if I was single in a van the family grass would look just as green. On the plus side family is getting easier and I'm more aware of where work needs to go.

3. Failing to get involved in Cheque's sea cliff project. I was really keen to get involved in any way, but didn't; see 2. Stuff like this genuinely annoys me. For months.

[Will Hunt]

Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff. 


Hardlands

That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.

[Footwork]

Arran. Hardlands was very good, Skydiver not so much, but the South ridge was fantastic. Done with Dad club in the mist whilst the youth slouched off to the cafe in a huff. 


Hardlands

That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.

Yeah that looks MAXIBON (best adjective 2016)

[Duncan campbell]

Hardlands does look very good. Such a cool feature that pocket! Bet it fills up nicely after a bit of rain too so you can wash your hands in it!! 

JB Tanygrisiau looks well good - what's that problem in the pic?? Looking forward to the NWB Guide coming out if/when that happens!

[Luke Owens]

JB Tanygrisiau looks well good - what's that problem in the pic?? Looking forward to the NWB Guide coming out if/when that happens!

Hallt Fono - 6B+ - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=261935

The line on the far left of JB's pic is one of the best 7A's in North Wales

[csl]

Top routes

Privilege du Serpent

Tried and failed for ages on a previous trip, got a new high point on my first go this time. First 7c+.

Blocage Violent

The epitome of Ceuse, so good!

Freeborn Man

Spent a weekend sleeping under the stars, watching meteor showers and sitting round a campfire. The climbing was secondary but this is a good reminder.

Sweet smell of Success

Best i've done on Portland

Valley of the Blind

Best i've done in Cheddar, soft but good to feel like it was v. easy

Top boulders

King of Drunks

Best of a good few days in Wales with old friends, first 7a in a session.

Boysens Groove

Tried years ago on a great day out with Footwork, so good i must have done it three times this time.

Top spankings

Deep water soloing

It's fucking terrifying

Hall of Mirrors

I seem to have one cursory go each visit to the cuttings, not sure why it seems so hard to me given its supposed to be so soft.

Southern sandstone

It's made of sand, and i find it really difficult. Especially topping out into sandpits, and using all the small holds.

[Reprobate_Rob]

La Musee Imaginaire - Lovely day up at Curbar repeating stuff. Spent a while watching people lobbing themselves at the top move on this, then found a nice way to balance up it gently. Great problem!
.

The rock up to the frumpy sidepull? If so that's where I've got to and it feels nails!!! It seems to hurt everything!! (So what's your way? )

Well it's still a pretty stiff pull on that sidepull to match feet on the right as per r-man's vid, but rather than going up to the arete with the left or just lobbing straight to the top, I cross over with the left to a fairly poor edge then just stand up gently and grab the top with RH. Probably not an issue for most but i'm a bit of a T-rex.

[remus]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Swift Undercut - Ticks all the boxes! Esoteric, FA, 1 move long and took a few sessions. https://goo.gl/photos/ksaRcxghDJWiM9WJ6
Hampers Hang, Stanage - What a cool sequence!
The Arete, St. Bees - Phenomenally good! The best of font transported to a sunny little seaside in the lakes.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Slim pickings this year.

Baloo, Manoury - Love that undercut.
Gargantoit/Assis, Gorges du Houx - Brill to spend new years day monkeying around on stuff like this with good friends in the forest.

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Refraction, The Burren - Mainly because it reminds me of this pic that Mike Goldthorp took of a mate on it.

The Promised Land, Fairhead - Naively got on this to warm up thinking it was to E4 as Wall of Prey is to E5. Big fight but pulled through eventually.
Bold as Love + Low Profile, Avon - Amazing after work ramp session.

Top three sport routes UK

Gates of Greyskull, Lulworth - That move at the top! Phwoar!!
Secret Cabaret, Cheddar - Knuckling some tasty little crimps. yummy.
Academic, Avon - Narrowly avoided disaster by doing it shortly after dropping it from the surely-you-cant-drop-it-there jugs. Good to get it done after trying it on and off for a couple of years.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Vadage, Mallorca - Proper full beans onsight above a bit of a swell. Turned the fear off, nailed some little crimps and got pumped at the top. What DWS is all about.
Mandagora, Siurana - Went out with no prep so was well chuffed to get up this onsight, normally shit at the pumpy stuff.
Iguanadon, Mallorca - DOuble heel-toe rest on the middle of an outrageous roof. What's not to like?!

Top Spankings

Howling Hound, Porth Ysgo - Awful tactics and about 20 laps (minus the last move).
Swift Undercut SDS - Just really hard. Managed all the easy moves but nowhere near the crux.
In the Night Every Cat is Black - Easy, easy, easy, rest, try ha...and off. Rinse and repeat.

[Johnny Brown]

That looks amazing. Gets E4 6a on UKC with a note saying it's been in the guides at E5 and E3, and this is just splitting the difference. What does it actually get? If it's E3 I'm keen. If it's E4 I'm cautious. If it's E5 I'm out.

It's probably E4, but not a hard one. E3 would be a bit harsh, E5 a joke. The tricky bits are not quite where you'd expect them, but it's a very high quality pitch.

[SA Chris]

Sleeping Crack just looks amazing too



I've still not been to Arran. I should be arrested for that crime, at least need to do Souwester Slabs sometime.

[James Malloch]

Quite a crap year for me for memorable routes really. Not done much that required lots of effort and everything I did was pretty much 1st or second go.

The only standout route was Espresso in Costa Blanca. Really nice climbing and one I failed on 3 years previous. It was great to come back and remember the sequence and retro-flash it easily.

On the same trip I got four 7a routes (or harder) in a day for the first time. Three flashed up to 7b/+ and one which took two goes due to a soaking crux. Brilliant day which ended in a screaming battle with a 7a followed by a trip to a Spa.

I barely bouldered this year and I've not really had any spankings due to not having a project. Pretty nice year overall.

[i_a_coops]

Loving this thread
 
Trad

Coeur de Lion - bit of a life goal this one.
Blockhead  can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!
Bold As Love   pleased to do this ground up despite the drizzle. I really rate this wall!


FA

Dance Therapy First thought this might be possible several years ago but wrote it off as too dangerous. Took all the manky fixed gear out of the parent routes and it's now (imo) the best way up this wall, it's super pumpy and has exactly the right amount of gear - it's pretty safe (well… if you know what gear to take...), but got some big fall potential!

Space Cadets - mainly a linkup of existing routes (The Hunted, Coeur de Lion, Blockhead, and a new rising traverse finish that takes in most of the Fire Escape), but what a day out. Very memorable watching Robbie split his tip and then forget where all the holds were at the end of the crux runout on Coeur, was so impressed he held it together and kept fighting through to the chains! Also won't forget the crucial gear placement falling to bits leaving me ridiculously run out on crumbly choss on the top pitch. Awesome to do a physically sustained multipitch route in the UK. 

(Long Quarry Point project ~8a+) - I bolted it in 2016, although I only managed it yesterday, I reckon that pretty much counts. Need to decide on a name for it now! Probably my best new route ever (it's between Up The Styx and Shadowbeast at Long Quarry Point. Get on it!)


DWS - Mallorca

Weatherman  Nearly died on this. Fell from the upper roof, landed too well, went really deep and blacked out. Regained consciousness after bobbing back up to the surface and spent 15 minutes dangling on a rope ladder coughing up blood, and then several hours lying down and vomiting seawater. I was too battered to climb for four days afterwards! Simultaneously proud and embarrassed that I went back to finish it off.
Carlos Checa - I LOVE CRANKING ON POCKETS SO MUCH
In The Night, Every Cat Is Black - Really psyched to hear that others on this thread have found this hard - I found the crux brutally difficult, and was a bit dismayed by the '7b+' comments on UKC.


DWS - UK

Herman Borg's Basic Pulley Slippage my anti style. Crimped so hard that one hand cramped up.
Davey Jone's Lock Off   Best rock in the UK?  Incredible position traversing out above that cavern!


Sport UK

Starkiller Base (aka Death Star with a little bit of footwork allowed) Hardest thing I've done on a rope.
Secret Cabaret   been trying this for 6 years, came close several times but was always thwarted my more holds falling off. I think it now climbs better than it ever did before!
Crucifix Kiss !  - another old nemesis, thought this could be my first 7c back in 2010. Turns out I was hopelessly optimistic, I think for my height, it's harder than any 7c+ I have ever done!
Was It You? - Mutlipitch chosseteering in minging conditions  with my old comrade-in-arms from Kyrgyzstan, brought back some memories - I even had an upset stomach to complete the trip down memory lane! Such a good route.


Siurana sport

Aizkolari   Was too ill for Siurana stamina, so found an old school route on pockets instead. I love this style so much!
Pota d'Elefant   Managed to figure 4 past the crux - SO psyched!
Mandragora Just incredible, dreamy onsight experience.


Boulder-route

Arch Angels - Well, it's basically a route, and I had to shave my legs and gaffe tape rubber to my legs in order to stand a chance…. but I enjoyed it!
Looking through my scorecard, it looks like I had much better taste in routes than boulders this year!


Spankings and near death experiences:

Weather Man
Tabou Zizi - Took far too long to work out a sequence, then started making good progress right at the end of the trip - and then got a bit injured from pulling with numb fingers. I will be back. 
Angels Extension - Punted the last hard move too many times. Just before the bat ban, I went back at night for 'good conditions'  - and some goons had lit a massive fire in the cave filling it with smoke and grease!!
Oesophagus - the most polished E1 in the universe. I got up it, just,  but I nearly exploded.

[tommytwotone]

Just realised that I only climbed outdoors about 5 times last year, though that included climbing in Font and Arran so at least it's been a mixed bag!


Top 3 boulders


Pine Tree Arete (6c+), Caley Crags

Attempted once in an afternoon after an early finish at work, but burned out just as I sussed the sequence, luckily got a pass for a week later and got back to finish the job without too much drama.

U2 Wall (6b+), West Vale

Only went there for a look around and wound up trying this. Totally my style and a touch blinkered but put it to bed without too much trouble.

Roadside Arete SDS (6b), Clach An Fhion, Arran

After a week in Arran which was hot, humid, damp and therefore midgy as hell, on the final day it cleared and a breeze picked up so I rushed out. Really hadn't expected this to be as good as it turned out to be, and literally a 1 min drive from our cottage as well.

Top Spankings

Johnny Longer (6c+), Woodhouse Scar

Project from my local crag, and a shit one at that - grovelling start, massive dab potential and an arse-dragging start. Still can't see it off though - perhaps it's my subconscious telling me I actually love it.

De Fil En Auguille (6c), Franchard Cuisiniere

Turned up out of shape, a bit hungover and feeling the pressure if this being a session on "my project" without anyone else there wanting to have a go. Not the ideal situation. Got nowhere on it, then realised when reviewing videos I'd missed a bit of the sequence that'd probably make it easier.

Repeating (in general)

I just need to stop doing this. On the few occasions I've been out this year I've got sucked into trying to re-do something I did long, long ago and failing. Until I'm back in shape I just need to learn to walk away.

[Nibile]

This thread is fantastic, and it's great to see how much people get done on ze rocks.
I'd like to contribute, but having climbed basically two problems in 2016, the choice would be a bit forced...
The trip to the Dolomites at the end of October, though, has been a majestic event, one of the best ever.
Climbing some board projects has also been quite cool.
Oh well...

[peewee]

I think with the effort that goes into your board problems they are worth a separate category, Top 3 Board problems!

[Nibile]

I think with the effort that goes into your board problems they are worth a separate category, Top 3 Board problems!

Ahahah that's quite right, but you'll be somehow disappointed I'm afraid! I think I only climbed three board projects last year!
 

[Duncan campbell]

Blockhead  can't believe this doesn't get done, probably the best pitch I've done in the UK. Has it even had a second ascent? Would be really interested to know!

What makes you say this Ian? Would be surprised if Caff hadn't done it, or some other folk either back in the day or more recently. Think I saw a pic of Dave Rudkin on it on Facebook at some point. Whether he did it or not I don't know.