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Best of 2016 (Read 42801 times)

cowboyhat

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#125 Best of 2016
January 12, 2017, 04:31:43 pm


Greatest success is overcoming the elbow tendonyawn that blighted the first half of the year.

Top three boulder problems, UK
The Terrace
When Huffy first did this I tried it and quickly realised its exactly the sort of thing I'll never do. Heels, compression; my anti-style. Add to this going try it once a year with a stable of show ponies who would nip up it, glance at me floundering on the mat and immediately mumble 'shall we move on'. Enter a new me with a couple of new shots in the locker, bon conditions, local knowledge from a willing chum and crucially now the problem itself has literally crumbled down to my level. Nevertheless a great feeling.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

Top three trad routes UK

Heart Of Gold, Left Hand red wall
Great technical climbing and gear just where its needed.

Hunger/Citadel, Main Cliff.
What a couple of pitches! I didn't climb either cleanly; seconding the first pitch I broke a hold reaching round the roof and leading the second pitch I ran out of concentration. I've never been a big drinker and unsurprisingly the effects of two nights on the red wine followed by broken sleep on a cold concrete floor caught up with me just around the last hard move of the Citadel 2nd pitch. I just decided I needed a little rest. Regretted it immediately but then resting I realised that actually I felt completely fucked. Not scared or even pumped really just an empty mind. Despite this it was thoroughly enjoyable, a great line and a brilliant day out. Note to self: if someone offers an inflatable mattress check you aren't being utterly sandbagged.

Tales of Yankee Power
Get Johnny Brown to place the gear up to the crux, wait for him to come down shaking his head with the mug firmly on, remember that you may have some form on Peak Limestone, bask in the sun on the belay chatting to friends on adjacent routes.
Question for the eagle eyed among you: How long do you think elapsed, in minutes, before he reminded me that I'd had a little rest on Citadel...?

Honourable mention: Cratcliffe
Not the most expansive crag but what quality the routes are down there. A dozen mid grade routes that rival anything on grit. Lovely day out and those are the four days I had tradding this year. Not bad really.

Top three sport routes UK


Top three routes abroad (any genre)


Mandragora, Suirana
Also a great technical and involving 7a 100m to the right that I can't remember the name of.


Top Spankings

Jermyn Street
Another stunner. I came to this unfit from the elbow and got a tiny bit sandbagged but really just let myself down. Brilliant route though, so involving it feels like three routes in one. Anyone in the Peak thinking of heading off to Wales should get on this first.

Continual failure to post images into ukbouldering. I have some great ideas and more or less always just give up. This should be easier right? It shouldn't require a 90's computer science degree.
« Last Edit: January 12, 2017, 04:56:55 pm by dave »

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#126 Re: Best of 2016
January 13, 2017, 09:42:13 am
3.5 ??


cowboyhat

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#127 Re: Best of 2016
January 13, 2017, 11:31:56 am
3.5 ??

To be fair to him he waited til we were back on the ground chatting to a few other people so it was probably more like twenty.

Johnny Brown

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#128 Re: Best of 2016
January 13, 2017, 01:08:59 pm
Yeah and I didn't fall off seconding the first pitch either  :jab:

Fucking limestone.

cowboyhat

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#129 Re: Best of 2016
January 13, 2017, 05:12:18 pm
Yeah and I didn't fall off seconding the first pitch either  :jab:

Fucking limestone.


 I didn't climb either cleanly; seconding the first pitch I broke a hold reaching round the roof

I know you are you said you are so what am I?

 

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