[csl]

STG - the next 6 weeks

Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb Privilege du Serpent
Lose a bit of weight - was around 73kg > down to around 72/72.5kg
7c outside - away this weekend if weather plays ball so hopefully get up something. - done

MTG - next 3 months

Get some routes i've tried ticked off - Tennessee, VoTB, New Dawn, Dominatrix
or
Try some new ones and do them... - Gunfighter, Directoonima

LTG - end of year

8a

Mon

Tue
Arch Building One: Hard Boulders

Got to last move on a couple of V7's and some progress on one other.

Wed

Thu
Westway: AnPow/AeroPow

Boulders to warm up
then:

6a+/b
7a onsight
7b attempt
7b attempt
7a onsight
7a+ onsight (with some cheating on a tricky clip)

Fri
Arch Building One: Boulders

Just did some of the recently set stuff up to V5.

Sat

Sun

Ok week, trying to taper as off to Ceuse in 1 week.

[ashtond6]

Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now

M iced
T  iced
W iced
T iced! Feeling a bit better

F Malham, fell off the top of consenting adults 7a, did the easy 6a+ 'worst route at malham' and tried taking the space 7b which was awesome.

S Malham again, did Heartly Hare 7a+ 1RP. Then hurt my finger more on the pockets of Seventh Aardvark 7b, then retroflashed rose coronary 7a (which I think is really good), then dogged puddle jumper but didn't RP due to time

S now my finger hurts more and I'll probably have to take 2 weeks off.

Hoping to be back for next Sunday
Annoying as I have Monday Tuesday off!

[JackAus]

TG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg. Finger recovery.
MTG: V9. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done. Have a fun NZ trip.
LTG: V11.

M: Gym.
T: Frontline and St Leonards.
Quick session at Frontline. Help a mate do his first V5 (which he did!). Lapped a bunch of stuff up to V7 all first go. Got very very close on El Kooko V9.
Usual new stuff at St Leonards after. Did all bar 3 I think. Abit of lever stuff after.
W: Rest.
T: Rest.
F: Birthday so took the day off and drove up to the Central Coast (~1hr) to check out some crags. Lara Street was my main aim and it didn't disappoint. Underdeveloped and no guide but great climbing. Every problem I did was awesome. Best climb of the day was Mick's Arete at a well under-graded V7. Very hard for 7! Took a lot of attempts and a lot of skin. Fell off the top a bunch of times, mantle isn't easy! Stopped in at 2 other crags: Blackwall and Roadhouse. Wasn't expecting either to be my taste and they were worse than I was expecting. Blackwall, shitty sharp lowball cave. Roadhouse, less shitty, more lowball, less sharp cave. Didn't even pull on to anything at either. Good day. Def keen to go to Lara Street again, still plenty of potential around there.
S: Rest! Skin fucked...
S: Jannali. Great little crag. Love it. More laps for me, showing some people here to try the classic Wish You Were Here V5. Repeated this first go as a warm up (a bit messily though...) then went to the warm up wall and did loads of variations. Repeated an unnamed V7 first go and then repeated the original Wish You Were Here V8 2nd go (dab on first). Somehow over the years the name changed from problem to problem... Had a quick play on the V10 version and quickly worked out that I am nowhere near strong enough.... Jumped back on a V8 dyno that I was a bee's dick from doing a while ago. Got nowhere except blood everywhere.... Negative skin now.


Mick's Arete. From a sit and up the right side. Gets V10 if you finish around left. Desperate.




Catching compression dyno on the original Wish You Were Here.

[csl]

Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now

...

F Malham

S Malham again

Two days at Malham trying hard on routes with a pulley strain is not the best idea, obviously you know your own body better than a random on the internet, but i'd suggest doing some proper rehab rather than just taking two weeks totally off climbing. Hope it recovers well!

[Muenchener]

STG (July): Get a decent alpine route or two in in the Kaisergebirge/Oberreintal
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Half an hour shoulder/upper back mobility, core
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Light bouldering session with M jnr, then ring l-sits, i-y-t's, reverse wrist curls
W: Half an hour shoulder/upper back mobility
T: Wall, Boulderwelt. Another short session. Had a play on a 7B, did all but two of the moves. Presumably they were the 7B bit.
F:
S: Family bike ride 2 hours
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with M jnr. Humid, tired.

[ashtond6]

Last Sunday at Raven Tor tweaked my finger. Think it's some form of A4 strain, but it fucking hurts now

...

F Malham

S Malham again

Two days at Malham trying hard on routes with a pulley strain is not the best idea, obviously you know your own body better than a random on the internet, but i'd suggest doing some proper rehab rather than just taking two weeks totally off climbing. Hope it recovers well!

Thanks CSL, it actually was a cry for help! I'very become quite the expert in shoulders and elbow but I've never had a proper finger injury so I'm a bit clueless.
Any recommendations on the rehab? I take it to start after swelling has gone?

[fried]

A week of continuing D.I.Y and indoor climbing

M- Indoors, don't remember much, but finished with a complete easy circuit 25 probs at about indoor 5Bish
T - Ikea, beds, stress
W- Beds and stress
Th - indoors, nice session, finished a red '6B', did a nice slab problem.
F- Got drunk
S - Headache and finishing all the D.I.Y.
Su - Raining, indoors, a bit sore in one elbow, didn't push it too much.

Pining for the forest. Weather looks crap for the foreseeable future, which fortunately isn't very far.

[tomtom]

Hoped to get back training/climbing this week after resting my back for a week....

M:
T:
We: Went to Logport Wall with Jim as the forecast looked rubbish.. Having not climbed for c.10 days It wasnt as bad as I feared... lots of creaking to warm up, but once going got up a few V5's and had fun working some V6's... though the grading was all over the place..
Th: Rest
Fr: Harmers in the morning - really didnt feel like going once I was there, but got stuck into it and made progress on the hardest V4 wall climb in the world

Had the stitches out in my back (5 of them) at 2pm... all felt great - no pain, no problems. Went home, decided to jetwash the back yard. Bent over a few times (nothing strenuous) and felt the wound stretch a bit - but thought it was OK... checked in the mirror when I was done and my stitches had split. My nice neat ish scar was now a 5cm by 0.5-1cm wide gash, about 0.5cm deep (I have but won't post a picture)... really wasnt sure what to do, so went to local minor injuries unit. There I was seen really fast and they decided to 'pack the wound' which I think means shove some sort of dressing deep into it that helps the flesh grow from the bottom up (no chance to stitch it back together). This now has to be changed every three days - by them - and its more of a seeping mess than a nice dry stitch up now... Unsurprisingly this has stopped climbing for now - again...

Anyway....

[Muenchener]

(I have but won't post a picture)

Thanks, much appreciated. Get well soon.

[tomtom]

(I have but won't post a picture)

Thanks, much appreciated. Get well soon.

Thanks M - its now at the 'when will this bloody thing scab over and heal up' stage

[shark]

Thanks csl

11.2-3

M. PM Foundry Wave bouldering. Tried flouro yellow I tried a couple of weeks ago (left of centre on steep bit) Felt stronger on it but didn't want to get too busted as wanted to campus to top up recruitment. Did a few things then painfully banged my elbow on one of the new wooden blobs. Felt all woozy and had to lie down. It was the bursitis elbow. Decided to finish at that point. Fortunately didnt make bursitis come back
T.
W.
T. Malham. Forecast looked like it would be mint conditions but turned out to be warm and muggy. Cons x 1 then x2. Oak 3 redpoints failing setting up for throw. Only highlight of day was Luke saying "God, you look thin".
F.
S. Dinbren for first time in 20 years. Tiresome bank holiday traffic. Went with Tommy Got there mid afternoon. Hot and hazy. Warmed up (not) on Traction Trauma 6c+ which was desperate. Tommy got shut down on it. Team on Technicolour Yawn 7a+ so jumped on that after they finished. Fell off near start then dogged up it. Tommy had a go on TR then I redpointed it. Tommy TRed again and I Tred the route to the right Walking with Barrence 7b. Fingery with a disturbing cross thru and stand up on the left foot on a smear. Managed to get it first redpoint with a bit of puffing. Drove on to Llanberis.
S. Sheep Pen. Hot, hot, hot. First time here. Went on Klems Arete. Tricky. We both had lots of goes.  Tommy got it first. After I got it we moved to the Main Block. Flashed Dog Shooter 6B (same grade as Klems arete). Someone was working a right hand traverse link into it V7. Got involved. Came off going for the top twice and only just held it a third time. Nice to do a 7A+ in a session though probably a soft one.
 
In Lllanberis till weds or thurs (if anyone fancies a drink??) Hopefully antihydral will get me through.

Sacked off Oak till the Autumn. Going to get back into trad climbing over next few months hopefully starting with the Fairhead festival next weekend if good weather holds                     

[nai]

Goals:
this week - not be total shit grow webbed feet in Font
June/July - Powerplant, Peak WIPS, E4 trad.
Autumn - Raindogs, LHS Tor.

M - Tor bouldering. Felt tired. Held the crimps after heal release on R&H which is progress, might have a chance fresher. Quick play on Cave Problem but could barely do a move.
T rest
W - Nettle. Back on Stung, fell off RP x2 after forgetting/messing feet up after all the hard climbing. Disappointing.
Th - AeroPow - foot on campussing. New format 2:1 work:rest. Decent. Construct new portable FB after checking next week's forecast
F - drive to Hull for overnight ferry
S- drive Zeebrugge to Font. 30 minutes at Sabot in evening realising I won't be climbing hard this week in 20+ degrees heat. Did manage a 5+.
S - wake at 6:30 to get out in the cool but find it's pissing down. Rains all day

[T_B]

M -
T - Howshaw Tor pm. Tore hamstring on Black Rhino. Mini Touching the Void descent scene.
W - sofa
T - sofa
F -
S - Lakes stunning weather. Beer.
S - Lakes stunning weather. Hobbled up to Bowderstone and spotted kids/wife. Grange paddling. Beer.

5th injury this year and it's not a minor one. Arse.

[a dense loner]

Harsh set of injuries that T_B you reckon it may be related to all fell running you've been doing lately, just not warmed up proper or not really related to anything?

[webbo]

M -
T - Howshaw Tor pm. Tore hamstring on Black Rhino. Mini Touching the Void descent scene.
W - sofa
T - sofa
F -
S - Lakes stunning weather. Beer.
S - Lakes stunning weather. Hobbled up to Bowderstone and spotted kids/wife. Grange paddling. Beer.

5th injury this year and it's not a minor one. Arse.

Shit !! What's the treatment/ prognosis.

[T_B]

Might have been tighter than usual, but it was cold and leg pulling in not a great position. One of dem things.

[tomtom]

Shit TB - that's rubbish

[monkoffunk]

STG: climb as many 7A/+ and 7b-7c as possible. Find 7c+ project.
MTG: 1. French 7c+, before 1/1/17. 2. Tick unfinished business list (4/13). 3. Font 7B before 1/1/17.
LTG: 1. Cider Soak and Academic, before 1/1/18. 2. Font 7B+, before 1/1/18.

M - Red Spider pre night shift. Trying the comp boulders. Thought needed a day to ease back in before getting back on systems board.

T - Anderson finger board instead of board as needed more sleep. Not the best, failed on some hangs. Either not enough rest since Monday or not trying hard enough. Might be a bit of both, but think guilty of giving up too easily.

W - Or maybe not. Felt worked! And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.

T - Careful to use it less through the night. Still sore.

F - Agony at times. Radiates up arm, horrible dull ache. Responds quite well to 600mg of ibuprofen. Need to be careful though or I might take an accidental staggered paracetamol overdose. Can't remember how much I've had. Think my dad might have some tramadol left over from when he got knocked off his bike though... Hopefully will be miraculously cured by tomorrow. Might cry if I can't climb.

S - Staying at parents in Bristol. Mother has taken all the tramadol for herself. 60mg codeine, 600mg ibuprofen and 1g paracetamol and coffee for breakfast. Nauseating trip down the M5 with Ian. Bad traffic and codeine an unfortunate mix. Long Quarry Point. Slab climbing seems to be the best analgesia. Half way up Up the Styx, Without a Paddle pain in my wrist seems to blissful dissolve into sweet numbness. Styx must be some kinda climbing goddess and has taken mercy on me. UTS,WAP is absolutely excellent by the way. My speed of climbing proportional to the difficulty because I never climb slabs. Took me forever on the top section because I was terrified of blowing the redpoint. One of the best routes I've done.

Went to play on Sole Fusion after that. Didn't redpoint but did every move first attempt on the traverse. Couldn't touch it in November. Didn't even notice that I'd done the first move on it this time. Couldn't figure it out at all before and had to skip it. Progress!

S - Few goes working sequence on Directoonima. One shoddy redpoint attempt. Think I have a sequence that will work. Absolutely incredible. Don't mind that I couldn't do it today, think I might start getting into new age hippy bullshit.
Anyway will definitely be the hardest thing I've done when I do it. Think Sing a Mean Toon Kid alone may be harder than Hall of Mirrors and maybe Valley of the Blind? Was a lot colder when I did those though...

Very happy with this week after wrist scare. Anstey's tomorrow.

Sorry to hear that others have been blighted, hope things heal soon.

[Duma]

Goals:
Summer - lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, tick Neath Abbey, identify (and if possible do) candidates for:
8A and 8b by next June

69kg. (av. Was 70kg on Thurs though)

Body Audit: shoulder seems pretty sorted now, fingers felt bit tweaky after board session on Thursday, but seems to have settled.

M: BBQ, lots of climbers, Si's got a decent board in his garage, I managed to avoid getting sucked in.
T: TCA for hour before work, Joe had started resetting the hard circuit in blue so had a go on those, managed to do all he'd set by then, pretty pleased as there were a few 7's. Finally did the last move of the red slab, didn't manage from the start, but pleased to get the move before it's reset.
W:
T: TCA with Daughter for couple of hrs after school, did a few more of the new blues. Simons board in eve, feel rubbish at board climbing, but should be good for me, and fun session trying hard. RH middle finger felt little tweaky.
F: TCA before nights (fucking nights, again) good session, only 6 blues left of this circuit now, all the moves on a couple of hard ones too.
S: sleep, nights
S: sleep, dragged self to TCA for an hour, took most of it to get going, but productive in the end, ticked 3 more blues, plus did the one move on the other three I'd not managed yet. Nights.

[shark]

And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.

Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too

[tomtom]

And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.

Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too

I thought it was wanking?

[SA Chris]

M- Core, Weights
T - Walk and some Photos. Nice evening
W - Nothing
T - Bouldering session. climbed OK, but thumb still not right, so no crimping and pinching. In spite of consciously not using  it, thumb really sore and swollen afterwards.
F - Beers
S - Ride on MTB, frustratingly thumb hurts so much it's hard to change gears. Weights in evening.
S - Helped out at Triathlon event. Mostly stopping kids drowning, or getting run or cycled over.

Tough call, but decided to sack climbing off for 5 weeks, as thumb is not getting better. Will focus on CV, cycling surfing and swimming fitness in preparation for Lanzarote holiday.

[shark]

And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.

Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too

I thought it was wanking?

Old wives tale. Exacerbation is worse

[monkoffunk]

And then sprained right wrist opening bottle of olive oil. Must have been tweaked. Exacerbated through using it all night, which doesn't mean what you think.

Excessive exacerbation makes you blind too

I'll need to watch out for that.

[a dense loner]

Man in your position shouldn't need to bother with a CV Chris?