[shark]

Thing is Simon isn't weak. He's done one armers, some fairly heroic deadhang feats, 1-4-6 on the second rungs from the right at the foundry, and 1-3-5-7-9 on the really small rungs at the foundry (you need good fingers too for that). Yet he's somehow crap at bouldering.

Only you would describe these pedestrian campus benchmarks as heroic feats.

Can you define what the Shrew view of "non-crap" at bouldering is, so I know what I should be aiming for.

[Three Nine]

Crikey I dunno. I still am nowhere near 1-3-5-7-9 on smalls, and I've done a few sub 10 move 7Cs on limestone, and quite a few 7Bs in a session.

You are wasting your time at eatswood; of that I am certain.

[Three Nine]

Each time you do a set of moves on a route or boulder problem, you get better at them (up to a point where this flattens off). So when you try a boulder problem you are principally training being better at that specific problem, and get a tiny weeny bit of crossover to other bits of climbing. So you need to try lots of different hard problems ie. don't do a Simon

[SA Chris]

I'm starting to think I'll be happier than Simon when he finally does it so we can find something else to talk about...

[tomtom]

I'm starting to think I'll be happier than Simon when he finally does it so we can find something else to talk about...

I think we need to EU-referendum-up this conversation.

Simon - how dare you blatantly lie about how many RP's you've had on the Oak. The Office for Malham Statistics says you are are over estimating by 31.23%. Furthermore, if you don't do the Oak this year it will trigger a recession and a major run in the Anasazi Whites futures. I'm bored of this now....

[moose]

Healthy skeletal is good  I am confident that Ted, Toby and Moose will all be kicking sand in my face by the end of the summer

I'm a far-from-healthy skeletal.. if I tried to kick sand in anyone's face my foot would likely fracture!

[monkoffunk]

Haven't really looked much into ketogenic diet, no expert, etc, etc, but just so we are clear: keto-with-a-twist basically isn't keto at all is it? If I eat all the keto stuff I'm supposed to and then drink a load of guinness (say 3000 calories over a week), or really any carbs at all, I'm essentially undoing any of the supposed physiological adaptations that I am trying to induce. Is that the point?

(I'm skeptical of the benefits of a strict ketogenic diet for climbing, not saying it doesn't work, just that I'm uninformed and naturally dubious. More trying to understand what you think you are doing/trying to achieve here).

[shark]

C'mon guys - lighten up!

[tomtom]

C'mon guys - lighten up!

Fat chance of that happening!

[monkoffunk]

Ha, I'm not saying don't eat chocolate and drink Guinness if that's what you want to do, just instead of saying 'I'm on a ketogenic diet' say 'I like cheese'.

[shark]

I'm a slave to fashion - judge me if you must

[tomtom]

I'm a slave to fashion - judge me if you must

Ah, You like cheese?

[shurt]

Sorry I've nothing to add to the Oak debate....

First entry for a while, in fact first climbing of any description (including training) for a while

Sunday: Managed a quick hour or two at Beacon Hill as was back at my Mum's good sunset and did a load of the 'routes'. Its all bouldering really although without a mat it can feel a bit sketchy (I was without one). Did most of the harder problems (font 6a) although still couldn't do Starship Trooper. That felt sketchy without a spotter or mat. I thought the routes Moonshot and Moonshot direct were really cool and did them both about 4 times each. It as a bit of a trip down memory lane as I did my first ever E1 at this crag. Looking back it was just a very slightly highball boulder problem, it seemed a big deal at the time though.
 

[TobyD]

I don't think he, me or anyone else thinks that. Given the choice (which we have) we tend* to spend our time on other stuff that we are better at and enjoy more.   

are you saying you like dieting more than board climbing?