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UKB Power Club Week 327 23rd May - 29th May (Read 14649 times)

petejh

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STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Power phase

M.
T. Mill. Campus sesh 6. Hoping to progress to 147 but didn't. Managed 14touch7. Double dyno 12345 on smalls.
W.
T. Boardroom. Campus sesh 7. Same as previous sesh, 14touch 7. Double dynos 1-3. Dissapointing, feel like power's plateaued below where I'd hoped to be. 4 hours sleep.
F. Easy stuff at Castle Inn in morning with girlfriend and daughter. Scorcio. Drove to Pembroke in pm. 3 hours sleep.
S. Pembroke. St Govans East. Did Ganymede. Pembroke rammed and I felt on edge the whole time about girlfriend/duaghter gettign taken out by rockfall. Got sunbaked. Walked round to Mowing Ward to do Diedre Sud but too sunblasted to look after them properly so decided better of it at the ab. Went swimming in Broadhaven and went from mildly heat exhausted to fucking baltic in 30 seconds. 4 hours sleep - woken in campsite at 2,3,4 am by valley scumbags no's 1 and 2 screaming 'Bastard' 'Cunt' every 20 seconds to laughing like a hyena from valley scumbag no 3.
S. Zombified by 3 nights lack of sleep. Walked to Saddle Head, fell asleep in sun. Too knackered to look after folks so went to Freshwater West surfing. They had a blast, I slept in the shade. Drove back through mid Wales in glorius evening sun - just as I was feeling really smug showing off mid Wales in it's evening splendor we decided to check out Borth for dinner. Turns out this is where all the fat bastards from Birmingham go to drink fosters and eat hot dogs on a bank holiday.
M. LPT easy stuff with GF and daughter before dropping them at airport in pm. Met an odd skeletal fellow with pale sunken cheeks hiding in the shade of an overhang, wearing a t-shirt over his head just in case he might stumble into the light.


Disappointed with campus results, hoped to nail 147 on smalls before end of power phase. Pembroke was hard graft - on edge about rockfall due to so many people around, and generally looking after GF and a ten year-old. No sleep and too much sun meant no energy to climb. Most exhilarating part of my weekend was wandering over to ask valley scumbag's to keep noise down at 4am to be greeted by three bollock naked valley scumbags pissed as fuck and high as kites telling me how they'd just sucked each other's cocks. Did Sean's campsite always used to be like this or am I just getting old?!

Fiend

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Bloody hell that campsite bullshit sounds grim. What is it with so-called normal people turning into utter fucking cunts at bank holiday campsites?? Surely they could simply not do it and just shut the fuck up??

Sunday you should have been nu-routing at Llawlech in mid-wales - was catching a nice breeze, easy track walk-in, lovely family picnic spot. Plus Harlech Tandoori at 10:25 pm  :yes:

webbo

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Mon. Sore from yesterday. Spent all evening trying to index the gears on my bike.
Tue. More farting about with my bike gears.
Wed. Take bike into shop. Board few harder things. Turbo 40 mins. Train to Manchester to see Bruce. Spent £100 on 2 sandwiches and 2 bottles of wine back at the hotel. Still it was cheaper than stuff at the stadium.
Thu. Travel back and pick bike up from shop.
Fri. Board struggling so 2 sets of warm up problems 30 in total then 5 sets of repeaters with 25lbs added. Bike intervals one hour.
Sat. Bike 76.01 miles 4 hrs 32 mins.
Sun. Board same as Friday. Bike 60.64 miles 3 hrs 31 mins.
Things keep improving just need to train my recovery better.

petejh

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Bloody hell that campsite bullshit sounds grim. What is it with so-called normal people turning into utter fucking cunts at bank holiday campsites?? Surely they could simply not do it and just shut the fuck up??

Sunday you should have been nu-routing at Llawlech in mid-wales - was catching a nice breeze, easy track walk-in, lovely family picnic spot. Plus Harlech Tandoori at 10:25 pm  :yes:

Was a bit but I'm a light sleeper at the moment. My girlfriend and her daughter didn't notice anything! They were proper twats though.

Llawlech? Bloody hell Fiend you're the new Martin Crocker


Fiend

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Who, me?? If I had a tenth of his determination and discipline I could climb quite well I reckon...

36chambers

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STG: training?
MTG: Walk up Zoo York 8A next winter
LTG: 8B

M:
T: Caley. Last decent connies day of the season? Did all the moves quickly on Pedestal Arete Sit 7C, using a cheeky left heel. Said heel move felt piss in isolation, didn't work on the link. Consolation tick of Scary Canary 7B+. 
W: Bouldering Indoors. Tired.
T: Full body workout
F:
S: Caley. Jungle conditions. Ferns out in force. I won't return till winter now. Pedestal Arete was wet, repeated a few 7's.
S:

RIP Caley. Long live the Cliff.

Coops_13

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TobyD

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M - day 1 in sella, sector wildside warmed up on the 7a groove, then did oceano 7b retro-flash, and dogged the 8a extension, did it second redpoint, flashed black is black 7b+ afterwards just before sun came round. A great first day after awful day of arrival on sunday, when we got robbed in carrefour car park.
T - same warm up, dogged putita de millau, redpointed it first go, should gone for the onsight really, but still felt like a nice style to do it in; tried watermark, but too hot for little crimps on that, onsighted a 7b+ at end of the day
W - much needed rest on the beach reading books and sunbathing; proper holiday
T - tried romocop 8a+, in 3 sections at best, too warm and humid for the slopers, monday and tuesday's cool breeze failed to turn up; flashed a 7b as consolation tick for the day
F - went to  Castellet de Calp, onsighting (or trying to); did a very soft 7c+ and a burly not so soft 7c, along with nice 7as and bs
S - tried tirali valent 8a+, great edgy wall climbing, but no tick; flashed a great traddy 7b+ after. utterly knackered getting on the plane in the evening
S - tried to sleep in after overnight journey, but way too sunny and nice; went out for about 30 mile ride in the peak on bike, not the best recovery perhaps but a great day

excellent trip and week, keen to head back to wildside in slightly cooler conditions, but pleased to find out its not too bad at all in late May, as long as it is catching a bit of wind

 

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