[36chambers]

Thu - climbing class. Foot on campusing, explosive. Some bouldering in horrible conditions. Climbed project in front of girls because I am the best.

  

[cha1n]

Surely you can phone in morning for an appt? Most have slots available if you are feeling really Tom and Dick.

Yeh, I could probably call in the morning but not sure I can justify the emergency appointment. I can function well enough to get through the work day but have no energy to do any high intensity activities.

Thinking maybe I started climbing hard too soon. Had two weeks off trying to get rid of a chest infection then went straight back to trying really hard for a week... at least I can cancel the doctors if I  start to feel better...

[Luke Owens]

M: Core

T - T: ill again

F: Went to Angel Bay for the first time in years. Good to be back there was psyched to do the classics, did Pocket Wall (6B+) and Bridley Arete (6B) then it poured down with rain...

Bailed to the Cave, haven't been since I did Left Wall a couple of months ago, felt good to be back, kinda missed it...! Did Left Wall from the Shothole (7A) straight off and started working Left Wall High, did The Pillar Finish (7A). Keen to do the different starts leading up to doing LWH.

Met some dude who lives in Squamish called Stuart, good psyche talking about Thrash Metal.

S - S: Forecast was rubbish and I still kinda felt ill so rested.

[filz]

M: lunch. push ups, L-sits, tuck planche, dips. Eve. weighted pull ups.
T-T: nothing. My right wrist was hurting so I took some rest.
F: short fb session before work.
S-S: bouldering in the Dolomites.
Gorgeous weather, nice weekend with some friends, lots of fun, but I realized I'm in really bad shape.
I tried a couple of 7a I had done climbed last year and couldn't link the moves.
In the last 3-4 weeks after the trip to the peak my motivation for climbing and training was lacking. A big like this makes me realize it's time to go back to train seriously.

[monkoffunk]

hangboard, not this core shit

I know, I know. Didn't have access to one every day though, but could have done something. Even something just to burn some energy would have been better than nothing.

[mindfull]

BW: 65.5

Loads of biking and light climbing every day. Focus on knee rehab and mobility.

TH:
High volume push:
1. Bench press:
15x38kg
10x38kg
8x38kg
2.. Overhead press:
15x28kg
10x28kg
8x28kg

FR:
High volume pull:
1. Pullup
3x7xBW
2. BB Shrug
3x15x40kg
3. Felt good so some somu deads:
3x40kg
3x80kg
2x90kg
1x90kg (conventional)
1x120kg (conventional/fail)
1x110kg (sumo/easy)

SA:
Push (5x5)
1. Bench press
10x38kg
5x5x48kg
2. Overhead press
10x28kg
5x5x38kg
3. Incline DB press
3x10x14kg

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Power phase

M. Core/mobility workout
T. Boardroom. Campus sesh 4. 125 on smalls. 136 on smalls. 15 (didn't match) on smalls righthand only. 14 slap halfway to 7 on smalls. 12345 double dyno smalls.
W.
T.
F. Flew to Belfast. Boulderworld, campus sesh 5. Boulderworld campus board feels harder, perhaps wider spacing above 4 which would be weird but looks it? 146 smalls. 14 touched 7 on smalls yes! Progress.
S. Surfing at Portrush, brill.
S. Fairhead, easy bouldering/pootling around Promontory area. Luverly.


Progress on campus, hoping to latch 147 on smalls before transition to PE. Week to go.

Question on campus progressions.. I've been going off this:

1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

I find 156 nails - can manage 15 no match - but can manage 14 touch7 (hopefully soon latch it). Anyone else find this?

[Murph]

Not been training (and posting to the club) as much as I hoped when I set out all my plans a few weeks ago. My babies have been keeping me up at night and waking me so early in the morning I have been too tired to find the fingerboard. Seriously like 3-4 hours sleep a night for the last week I've started to lose my sense of humour.

I am assured that these things come in waves so am hopeful that normal service will resume shortly and you can read all about my solid training regime and gains as I blast back up through the grades!

Stay strong people.

[Falling Down]

Been busy with being self (unem) employed and finding a new client and had friends visiting at weekends so haven't done a great deal.  Started a well paid new client assignment this morning which is a relief and its local so should be able to get to the wall once I'm up to speed.

Press-ups and bodyweight stuff most mornings.
A couple of short bouldering sessions at the wall.

Off to Switzerland on Thursday for the first time.  Flying into Zurich early morning then heading to Briasca and climb at Chironico & Cresciano then hopefully meet up with The_Dom and possible Nibs at Magic Wood on Sunday.  I just hope there are lots of easy problems!

TomTom - hope all's well and the prognosis is good.

[dontfollowme]

FD, I don't know about Magic Wood but there is plenty to do at Chironico.

(Think I climbed with you very briefly at Gibb Tor a few years ago)

[nik at work]

Missed last week so a two weeker report, and a bit more to report than of late.
M nowt
T nowt
W nowt
T nowt
F after work get boat to Liverpool and head to North Wales
S Gogarth, The Moon. my climbing partners first E3 lead and she cruised it. Was then hoping to get on to North Stack but it felt very hot so we bailed to the slate quarries, which was nice.
S The Grochan. Did some nice routes.
M Avon Gorge. Met up with Tom and Dan, did a route then drove down to Bude.
T Sharpnose to start, was damp to start and then the tide came in, did a couple of routes though, all very pleasant. Then went to Pentire a did Eroica, got rained off the top pitch so ab retreat, marvellous.
W Blackchurch, Sacre Couer. Probably my fave route of the week, just lovely. Then the tide came in and the rain started.
T Sheffield seeing friends.
F Darlington, family wedding
S Glouster, friends wedding
S liverpool, fly home.
About 1500 miles driving in a week and a decent variety of climbing. Nothing hard but I had a realisation that actually wombling around on low to mid e grades and having micro epics with your mates is often what the very best climbing days are all about. Perhaps a not very power club revelation, but after spending a lot of time projecting things (too?) hard it was a delightful wake up call of a week away. I might not have pushed my climbing to the limit, but I was tired and satisfied Sunday evening. Trad is the best thing ever.

[dave]

Question on campus progressions.. I've been going off this:

1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

I find 156 nails - can manage 15 no match - but can manage 14 touch7 (hopefully soon latch it). Anyone else find this?

I find 1-4-7 nails (only done it once despite trying it a lot) yet have done 1-5-7 a couple of times first try - something about the first move being longer helps me get the back hand pushing down more.

Another ones you can throw in there along the way is 1-2-6.

[36chambers]

Question on campus progressions.. I've been going off this:

1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

I find 156 nails - can manage 15 no match - but can manage 14 touch7 (hopefully soon latch it). Anyone else find this?

I find 1-4-7 nails (only done it once despite trying it a lot) yet have done 1-5-7 a couple of times first try - something about the first move being longer helps me get the back hand pushing down more.

Another ones you can throw in there along the way is 1-2-6.

I'm the same as you Pete, have managed 1-4-7 once or twice, but can't get near 1-5-6. I think it's because I'm quite strung out in the 1-5 position (possibly catching the 5th with a straight arm) and so I struggle to generate the initial movement.

For me it's either a technique, strength or timing thing. Haven't really tried it enough to know. 

[Falling Down]

FD, I don't know about Magic Wood but there is plenty to do at Chironico.

(Think I climbed with you very briefly at Gibb Tor a few years ago)

Cool thanks.  Now wracking my brains trying to remember who I met at Gib. Was I on my tod with the dog? or with someone else??

[Sasquatch]

Question on campus progressions.. I've been going off this:

1-3-4
1-2-4
1-3-5
1-4-5
1-2-5
1-4-6
1-3-6
1-5-6
1-4-7
1-5-7
1-3-7
1-5-8
1-5-9

I find 156 nails - can manage 15 no match - but can manage 14 touch7 (hopefully soon latch it). Anyone else find this?

I find 1-4-7 nails (only done it once despite trying it a lot) yet have done 1-5-7 a couple of times first try - something about the first move being longer helps me get the back hand pushing down more.

Another ones you can throw in there along the way is 1-2-6.

I'm the same as you Pete, have managed 1-4-7 once or twice, but can't get near 1-5-6. I think it's because I'm quite strung out in the 1-5 position (possibly catching the 5th with a straight arm) and so I struggle to generate the initial movement.

For me it's either a technique, strength or timing thing. Haven't really tried it enough to know.

Not I.  I find 1-5-6 easier than 1-3-6... 

[jwi]

This is mostly down to reach, no?

[36chambers]

This is mostly down to reach, no?

Yep, but I didn't want to be the first to say it.

[petejh]

But why would someone with reach be able to do 156 or 157 OK, yet find 147 nails?

[a dense loner]

Cos you have to pull through on the upper arm to do 147, you have to pull through minimally to do 156. To do 15 you just have to be explosive enough to do the initial jerk. I'm very weak pulling through

[petejh]

Makes sense. I wonder though - because I'm pulling through on the first move too - e.g. I'm starting straight-armed on 1.

What does the typical start position look like when people campus? - So I start knelt-down due to the low height of the rung 1 on the three boards I've been on (Mill, Boardroom, Boulderworld) and obviously initiating the first move with straight arms. Does anyone start standing - using rung 3 as rung 1 etc. so they can start from standing? Still with straight arms obv

[a dense loner]

Yes but you're starting straight armed on 2 arms, much easier than one arm above the other. I used to use 3 as 1 when I did a bit of campussing, didn't like starting from 1. Too awkward

[Sasquatch]

This is mostly down to reach, no?

i'm 5'10" with a +1 ape index.  I don't think reach is why.  I think it's closer related to one arm pullup ability. 

[T_B]

FWIW I can do 1-5-8 on a good day but have never been anywhere near a one armer on a bar. I think reach, shoulders and speed are more relevant. Power and strength being quite different.

[the_dom]

Last full week before Magic Wood!

Mon: Weights at lunch (deadlifts, one arm snatches and bench press), followed by 20 mins on the treadmill in the evening
Tues: Evening bouldering on the Moonboard. Good session.
Wed: Weights at lunch (deadlifts, one arm snatches and bench press), followed by a good but shortish boulder
Thurs: 20 hardish mins on the treadmill.
Fri: Exhausted. Rest day.
Sat: Bouldering. The Topside. Ticked off a classic old school 7B that I did (and found very hard) about 10 years ago and a couple of easier 7s first go. Good day out.
Sun: More bouldering in the Topside. Ticked a great 7A first go, a good 7B second go and a very hard, classic 7B/+/C fourth go. Really good, solid day out.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Mon: Warmup and then campus.  Hard doing 1-3-5 - poor at keeping momentum going.
Tue: Nowt.
Wed: TCA, Moon board, limit bouldering. Tired and unpsyched.
Thu: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +22kg x 3. Success rep 1, 2 and 3 Sloper +28kg x 1, success.
Fri: TCA, steep powerful stuff on the mothership.
Sat: Run 4.5km
Sun: FB, max hangs. 19mm 10s +24kg x 3. Success rep 1, 2 and 3! Sloper +28kg x 1, success.

Pretty poor start, but suddenly picked up later in the week. Max hangs seem to be paying off again.