Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice.I've now had four sessions on Red Baron Roof. This is the first time I've ever really projected something (other than Underhand which I tried for a long period of time with a crap sequence and then did quickly with the right one) and it feels like an enormous step up in terms of difficulty from anything I've done previously. Its not my style at all. Having said that I'm finding it a very satisfying process and with each session I see significant gains. I don't know whether this is all down to working the moves and doing them more efficiently/learning them/refining beta etc etc or whether it is also making me stronger as well?I'm now at the stage where I KNOW I can do it - its just a matter of getting a really good link on it. Last night my best attempt saw me fall off trying to match left foot/hand (can't remember which) to the arete, which is pretty close to the end. I failed on it because I just didn't have any power left in the tank to finish the burly 7A+ stand.So this suggests to me that I need more power endurance - fine. The best training I can think of for this is trying Red Baron Roof, as it would be very difficult for me to replicate how knackered the problem makes me using the pull up bar, fingerboard, and woodie that I have access to. The advantage of having more goes on the problem is that I might actually get a great link on it and tick the thing!The problem with this is that this problem is really eating my skin in three unusual spots. Left hand palm between the base of my ring and middle fingers, right hand thumb at the MCP joint, left hand thumb on the IP joint. These three places are now open and will take a couple of weeks to heal properly. They're unusual places to lose skin and unusual in that, because I don't require any sensitivity on the rock in these place, I can still climb reasonably well on the problem even when they're taped (with the exception of the palm "split"). However, even when thickly taped, the rock still eats skin - so unless I let the skin recover completely this only going to keep getting worse.I feel so close now - I don't want to stop trying the problem. If I stop for two weeks, then I might come back to the problem and be completely out of form for it, or at least won't have made the PE gains I need and could have got through trying the problem; but I feel like in the long term, I need to let my skin recover completely to give me a decent shot at it.If I stop, am I going to doom myself to failure? Or is there a PE routine that somebody can recommend that will simulate the extreme burl of the problem adequately? Lots and lots and lots of pull ups until complete and utter exhaustion?
Stop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place.
Anyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?
Quote from: tomtom on February 11, 2016, 08:51:00 pmStop over thinking it. Sounds like you're at the stage now when you just need a go where it all falls into place. Have a day or two's rest then try again - and repeat. Might be Connies - muscle memory or just getting better at some parts - it'll all fall into place. Spoken like a true anti-trainer. Are you powering out or pumping out? It looks like it takes a minute or so to climb, that's probably AnCap territory rather than PE. Bit of a Obvious thing, make sure you have the stand absolutely wired.You're idea of lots of pullups might work, basic but effective. how about this pullup intervals workout on the BM slopershttp://www.nicros.com/training/articles/training-muscular-endurance-part-1. Try chucking in some pressups after your pullups for added burl.
Quote from: ashtond6 on February 11, 2016, 10:12:48 pmAnyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?No
Quote from: webbo on February 12, 2016, 10:24:29 amQuote from: ashtond6 on February 11, 2016, 10:12:48 pmAnyone else looking forward to mumra getting blocked?NoNo from me too.
Hello Power Clubbers, I need some advice...
Will, you do climb quite slowly. Getting it all wired and climbing quickly does help a lot!
Watching back the send footage of myself on Dialectics
you should nail the moves perfectly
climbing fast is the path to true righteousness WillTom - Agreed. once I had the start nailed I went so fast on weedkiller, man isn't supposed to sloth around at that angle.