[a dense loner]

Just watched your blind date vid shark  tell me you did it tonight? It was one of them were I knew you fell off but still couldn't believe it when you did! If not tonight you'll get it soon enough, quality.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions.
MTG: Don't get broken.

Mon: Quick 4x4s session at TCA.
Tue: Max hangs (13kg 16mm 10s).
Wed: TCA, Woody, short power problems. Not a bad session, felt like I was able to do more than two moves.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: Wye valley esoterica with a couple of mates. Lovely day out, didn't do anything particularly hard but felt I climbed reasonably well.
Sat: 4km run.
Sun: Max hangs (15kg 16mm 10s). Good session, felt strong.

Not a bad week all in all - feeling like my energy is coming back. Time to get out on some hard problems again

[k2ted]

A few weeks of chest infection so little done...

Fingers are way behind so repeaters on the bm for 4 weeks then so simple campus on the big rungs, then few weeks limit bouldering. Need to do weigh in, hopefully under 14stone 10.

Mon - fb repeaters on bm. 1/2 crimp cheated last 2 of 7, slopers, drag, mr (all x2)
tues
Weds
Thurs - same as Monday, little easier.
Fri
Sat - birthday, Mrs made carrot cake, balmoral chicken so few lbs added.
Sun - more carrot cake n pizza

[shark]

Just watched your blind date vid shark  tell me you did it tonight? It was one of them were I knew you fell off but still couldn't believe it when you did! If not tonight you'll get it soon enough, quality.

Thanks dense

Unfortunately not. Conditions strangely glassy. And it rained. Tried to dog the move up from the slots - not easy. 

 

[Luke Owens]

M: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Knee tucks
50 Crunches

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Press ups
3 x 10 Shoulder Rotations (3.5kg)
3 x 12 Bent over flys (3.5kg)
3 x 20 sec L-Hangs
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
10 Leg raises (Feet to bar)

Eve: Plas Power - 15 mins ARC traverse Warm-up

20' Board - 3 x 7A

45' Board - 6B+ repeat, then made replica of the moves I keep falling off on on Left Wall Trav, managed to replicate it pretty accurately. Did about 6 reps of it.

AeroPow - 20 moves x 6 reps (Rest between reps equal to work time 1min on 1min off)

W: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
2 x 10 Knee tucks
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
2 x 10 Knee tucks
8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
50 Crunches

T: Lunch - 3 x 10 Shoulder Raises (5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Flys (5kg)
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
2 x 20 sec L-Hang
2 x 8 Leg raises (Feet to bar)

Eve - Plas Power

20 mins ARC Traverse warm-up

Did a new problem on the 20' board around 7A/+, took awhile to do it.

Tried to come up with some new problems on the 45' Board

F: Lunch - Stretching

S: Rest

S: Talfarach - Amazing place. Almost too hot to climb! Did:

Cable Stripper - 6A+ (Flash)
Left Arete - 5B (Flash)
Mr Beanie - 6B
Ministry of Silly Hats - 6C+ (Flash)
Where's My Pogo - 6B+/C
Cream Seam - 6B+
Billy Boy Arete - 6A+  (Flash)
Billy Bunter - 6B+  (Flash)

Did all the moves easily on 'Brethren Court' (7A+) but mate had to leave so didn't have pads/spotter to link it.

Happy to do all the easier classics, keen to go back for the harder stuff.

Just a word of warning, don't try and park/drive on the grass on the right hand side of the road opposite the normal parking layby on the left, I tried turning round on it and my car basicly sunk... Luckily the farmer in the house down the road (the one you walk through to get to the crag) is a real nice chap and towed me out.

[nik at work]

Just to add to the bottom rung middle crimp BM debate. I find it very hard to hang with all four fingers, I have to go into a (for me) very crimped position and struggle with rotation. However if I drop the little finger I can get a more dragged hang and can hold it in more comfort for a fair bit longer with far greater rotational stability. My little fingers are very much shorter than the rest.
I'm also slightly intrigued by Randalls 'this correlates to an 8-whatever climber', any stats/participant numbers disclosable Tom? I ask this out of curiosity, not criticism.

[shark]

I'm also slightly intrigued by Randall's 'this correlates to an 8-whatever climber', any stats/participant numbers disclosable Tom? I ask this out of curiosity, not criticism.

Gotta be 50+ by now

[nai]

Sure he says hundreds on his TB podcast.

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Ticked all bar 3.
W: 9 Degrees. Ticked most of the black comp circuit. Couple of hardies in there that I didn't get.
T: Rest.
F: St Leonards. Just some light core, front levers, campussing and handstand work. Very short.
S: Frontline. Early morning. Stupid summer. Good warm up circuit up to V7 inc a V6 I'd not been able to repeat in 2.5 years (Who Killed The Kennedys). Very close on If the Shoe Fits and had a couple throws on Rocket Man but was heating up too much by this point.
S: Alfords Point. Very early morning. Warmed up by falling off a long V7 that I've done before (Thankfully....). Then tried Strung Out, long long prob that links the V7 into some tiring link moves into a very burly V7 to finish. Gets V8. I've fallen off the last move of this at the end of last season, so thought I'd see how I'm going. Have better endurance but am fatter and weaker and its hot as fuck so came off 3 moves from the end. Next attempts got progressively worse and I was getting increasingly annoyed at myself. Called it a day as it was already boiling hot by then.