Only had one argument with Shark about fashion and he didn't even mention the new Armani T shirt I was wearing.
although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions)
Quote from: shark on February 14, 2016, 06:15:05 pmalthough this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions) How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.
Quote from: csl on February 14, 2016, 10:47:27 pmQuote from: shark on February 14, 2016, 06:15:05 pmalthough this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions) How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.It is first joint ie bigger than a campus rung. Maybe you are strong for your grade
Is it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?
I very much doubt I'd achieve 88% on a 18mm campus edge, front on, for 5 s.
I'd say the edge is about the size of a medium campus rung. 25mm or soyou hang it four finger, open or semi crimped using a pulley to stay front-on. Tom mentions in his podcast that even folk who are adding extra weight use the pulley with 1kg loaded to ensure they stay straight.
..to stay front-on.
Back around
BTW Anyone fancy a Remergence lamping session tomorrow evening??
Quote from: jwi on February 15, 2016, 09:57:16 amQuote from: Nibile on February 15, 2016, 09:17:56 amIs it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?+1 Duration of the hang still not spelled out?
Quote from: Nibile on February 15, 2016, 09:17:56 amIs it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?
Quote from: shark on February 15, 2016, 01:55:31 pmBTW Anyone fancy a Remergence lamping session tomorrow evening??Weds?
Quote from: habrich on February 15, 2016, 02:55:10 pmQuote from: jwi on February 15, 2016, 09:57:16 amQuote from: Nibile on February 15, 2016, 09:17:56 amIs it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?+1 Duration of the hang still not spelled out?5 secs
Quote from: shark on February 15, 2016, 03:24:35 pmQuote from: habrich on February 15, 2016, 02:55:10 pmQuote from: jwi on February 15, 2016, 09:57:16 amQuote from: Nibile on February 15, 2016, 09:17:56 amIs it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?Also, on the test, do you hang front on or sideways? For how long time?+1 Duration of the hang still not spelled out?5 secsQuite funny. I've been doing my 1-arm hangs on the bottom center slot of the BM2K, which I measured at 25mm. I can hang 1-armed for 10 seconds at -30lbs, or roughly 83%. I've also been using a pulley to the harness system so I have to engage the shoulder differently. I'll test it on Thursday to see my 5 sec max.
Had thought I'd permanently deleted camera footage of my best go on Blind Date by accident but just found and recovered it
The bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.
Quote from: Nibile on February 16, 2016, 08:52:46 amThe bottom center rung on the BM is a strange hold, IMO. It's good and everything, but I think it's quite hard to one-arm hang, because it's quite incut, and thus you have to half crimp it, you can't hold it more openhanded. The latter being easier.By far.
If you're not averse to using a ladder,
Just watched your blind date vid shark tell me you did it tonight? It was one of them were I knew you fell off but still couldn't believe it when you did! If not tonight you'll get it soon enough, quality.
I'm also slightly intrigued by Randall's 'this correlates to an 8-whatever climber', any stats/participant numbers disclosable Tom? I ask this out of curiosity, not criticism.