Only had one argument with Shark about fashion and he didn't even mention the new Armani T shirt I was wearing.
although this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions)
Quote from: shark on February 14, 2016, 06:15:05 pmalthough this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions) How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.
Quote from: csl on February 14, 2016, 10:47:27 pmQuote from: shark on February 14, 2016, 06:15:05 pmalthough this is still off the 95% which is typical for an aspiring 8b climber (one who can do it in 10 sessions) How big is the edge? I'm intrigued I would have assumed an 8b climber would likely be able to hang one armed on campus rung size holds, i guess it must be smaller.It is first joint ie bigger than a campus rung. Maybe you are strong for your grade
Is it a one arm hang test? Being at 95% means that one is 5% shy of a one arm hang?
I very much doubt I'd achieve 88% on a 18mm campus edge, front on, for 5 s.
I'd say the edge is about the size of a medium campus rung. 25mm or soyou hang it four finger, open or semi crimped using a pulley to stay front-on. Tom mentions in his podcast that even folk who are adding extra weight use the pulley with 1kg loaded to ensure they stay straight.