[JohnM]

Yeah Simon Says is the route in mind and I was also under the impression that the same thing had happened on the Grand Canyon extension?

[Luke Owens]

Yeah Simon Says is the route in mind and I was also under the impression that the same thing had happened on the Grand Canyon extension?

Who supposedly did it on GC Extension? When was this?

When you're at your limit and giving it everything you just don't need it.

Agreed, mental redpoint pressure is bad enough as it is without other people making it worse.

[petejh]

Fuck it, just claim it Lee! No-one will hold it against you, then the anxiety will be gone and you'll probably cruise it whenever you feel like.

I've never climbed any of mine.

[Luke Owens]

I've never climbed any of mine.

[Ally Smith]

Yeah Simon Says is the route in mind and I was also under the impression that the same thing had happened on the Grand Canyon extension?

Who supposedly did it on GC Extension? When was this?

I was chatting with a well known Peak based photographer at Malham this spring and conversation somehow came around to Devils Gorge. Photographer asked if it Devil's Gorge was photogenic - i warned him not to go on a trip especially as conditions are so hit and miss - just as likely to find it dry in a windy rainstorm than on a sunny (but still) summers day.

Talk then turned to the GC extension. Photographer was aware of the protracted project status of this route and was slightly more generous in his opinion on how long it'd taken after finding out about the unpredictable conditions.

Now, here's the interesting bit, photographer then said "oh, uberwad might have done it, I know he's climbed a few projects and jumped off the top and not claimed them..."

So, no direct evidence that GC Extension has been done (and hence no names to implicate the innocent) just anecdotal.

Lee - good luck with the project - IMHO the FA is still up for grabs.

[Doylo]

What is the purpose of this so?so? jumped off the top shite. Just forget it, even if it's true its not an FA and it seems the only point of such talk is to demoralise Lee.  It's easy to be flippant about a 4 bolt extension that 'anyone could have bolted' and 'everyone could piss' but this is obviously a life goal for Lee (in his climbing career anyway).  It really doesn't matter a jot to anyone else at the end of the day, there's a 3 star 8a/+? just to left that any fucker who wanted a proj down there could have done!  Jeez

[Ally Smith]

Easy tiger!

That's my point, although I've heard it from others that GC Extension had been "done" in this style, in none of the discussions I've had about it has there ever been a name or date attached so such an "ascent".

[Doylo]

If it's hearsay then keep it to yourself. If someone posted that online about my pigeon's proj i'd feel like throwing in the towel. 

[nodder]

Your all mean.  Leave him be.  Or I will tell teacher on you. 

GO LEE. 

(Official supporter of all underdogs everywhere, even Doylo)

However I heard that a kid jumped off the top of your project while soloing pissed, so if you can find your towel you should throw it.

[Doylo]

Your all mean.  Leave him be.  Or I will tell teacher on you. 

GO LEE. 

(Official supporter of all underdogs everywhere, even Doylo)

However I heard that a kid jumped off the top of your project while soloing pissed, so if you can find your towel you should throw it.

Was it that fat girl who had to get helicoptered out?

[JohnM]

Now now, noone is trying to demoralise anyone, just establish the facts.  It would be unfair to demonise Davo as a project vulture for wondering whether he could try it (having previousley left it alone) if someone has already climbed to the top and jumped off.

I was in a cave in the Peak the other day and I heard someone say that a 9a uberwad (maybe the same one Ally is talking about) had climbed it (possibly onsight?) without realising that it was someone's project.  On reaching the top someone informed him of it's project status and he duly jumped off with out clipping the anchors. 

[Doylo]

Now now, noone is trying to demoralise anyone,

coming from the man who said

Christ on a bike, it is a short limestone extension, which by all accounts is not that hard.  It is not as if it would have been a massive effort to bolt that top section.  Someone just do it and have done with it.  Dave and Matt if you really want to do it, climb it and don't tell anyone.

 

[Falling Down]

I can't believe that Lee has had to (a) write a lengthy post explaining how he's approaching his project and (b) that anyone is questioning how long it's going to take him.

It's his project until he decides its not. End of...

[petejh]

Typed a reply but deleted it.

I strongly disagree with the above, there's such a thing as humility.

[SA Chris]

1) I live 5 mins from Pantymwyn (Devils Gorge) and can check on conditions quite regularly

4) The gorge which in essence is a muddy hole in the ground is not everyones cup of tea to spend day after day belaying. My main climbing partner also has a project there, is equally as motivated and lives only about 2 mins from the crag.  This is great for me but unfortunately he badly broke his ankle bouldering at the gorge 4 months ago and has only just started climbing again this week.

Sounds like if people are so desperate to get on this after you have done it, they should be offering you belays in exchange for up to the minute twitter feed on connies reports! Win/win

[John Boy]

Sounds like there two points here

1. Is it reasonable for anyone to stake a life time claim (8 years+) to a piece of rock they share with the rest of the world? I'd say no it isn't.

2. Is it reasonable to respect someone's claim to a have a good 'crack of the whip' at a Project they've bolted up? I'd say yes.

Sounds like everyone is respecting Lee's right to a fair crack of the whip; which next year will be getting on for more than 9 years!

Am I a reasonable chap. No. Fuck Lee, he's got till next year then that route is fair game.

[Luke Owens]

Am I a reasonable chap. No. Fuck Lee, he's got till next year then that route is fair game.

Are you for real? Have some respect for other people.

You make that sentence sound like a personal attack and that Lee has done something wrong.

[lee proctor]

Am I a reasonable chap. No. Fuck Lee, he's got till next year then that route is fair game.

This response really makes me feel very sad!

Maybe one day John Boy you will find something in life that drives and motivates you, something that is really worth fighting for something that you will remember with perfect clarity for the rest of your life when you’ve achieved it. I genuinely hope this is the case because if your life is spent living vicariously through other people’s dreams and ambitions I would personally find that a very shallow existence!
 
Your post does appear very tasteless to me even if it was meant with humour!

[John Boy]

OK, I take back the fuck word, but to be fair fella' you should share this quality route with the world rather than denying others their opportunity to enjoy it.

Folks on here are willing to give you a good crack of the whip; they are showing you respect.

You should take your 'whipping' opportunity and make the most of it and if after giving your 100% you are unable to make the tick you should reciprocate the respect.

Good luck with the training 

[tomtom]

I've no view to express - other than the way this thread has progressed is a tribute to UKB. Views expressed both ways - emotions conveyed and all in all a good debate. Take note t'other channel...

[abarro81]

Maybe one day John Boy you will find something in life that drives and motivates you, something that is really worth fighting for something that you will remember with perfect clarity for the rest of your life when you’ve achieved it. I genuinely hope this is the case because if your life is spent living vicariously through other people’s dreams and ambitions I would personally find that a very shallow existence!

Not sure what that's got to do with anything since the above can occur on things other than first ascents too.

[outlawed]

Been following this.

Coming in from the cold.

I dont recognise all this it's somebodys 'project' leave it alone thing.

It's a line. Open to all comers. Doesn't belong to anyone.

If you want a pop, go for it.

Not denigrating Lee. Still a project for him, and good luck with it. If someone does it before lee, his personal achievement won't be diminished,

A good route is a good route. Dont matter who did FA

[Serpico]

So someone else spends their time and money equipping and cleaning it and you think it's OK to come along and steal the FA?
Welcome to UKB, have a punter point.

[outlawed]

So someone else spends their time and money equipping and cleaning it and you think it's OK to come along and steal the FA?
Welcome to UKB, have a punter point.

you can't 'steal' a FA, just complete a line before someone else. Way it's always been.

[petejh]

Thankfully you're in a tiny minority. Nearly all route-climbers understand that a certain grace period is apt for sport routes. The grey area is how long.