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Looks very similar to the Lopez protocol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4Gh8hOjIsg

My own Lopez derived regime, employed when enthused / ovewhelmed by the difficulty of a project, is to calibrate by finding the max added weight for a 13s hang. Then, each session, after a suitable warm-up (I do 6x7/3s repeaters on a 18mm edge, followed by the same on 14, 12, and 10 mm edges) I do a progression of 10s hangs at 50%, 80%, and 90% of the max.

The meat of the session is then 10s hangs at the max added weight (as many as I can manage, generally 5-8).

Every 3-4 weeks I change to a different sized hold (I tend to alternate between 18mm and 12-14mm - any smaller and skin loss / pain raher than finger strength seem to become limiting).

Main problem using big holds is that the amount of added weight for 2 arm hangs can become intolerable. I had a few sessions of putting on the weight belt / weighted harness etc, falling over, and being unable to stand up! One-armers with a pulley and assistance are more comfortable - the sessions just take a little longer.

Currently in such a "max hang" phase, scared into it by how weak I feel after a long hiatus from fingerboarding (just used a woodie instead over winter). Thankfully, I am slowly reverting to my old marks. When I do, given that I have a power-endurance project, I think changing to Probes' 5x5x5x5 routine would be appropriate - I recall that programme felt horrendous, which suggests it was beneficial! Incidentally, although the calibration routines are different, I found that the actual amount of added weight (or assistance for one-armers) was similar to the Lopez routine (i.e. similar added mass for 10s hangs 3 mins apart and 5x5s/5s repeaters, 5 mins apart).

http://crusherholdsclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/
 
Fantastic link there Slackline, I would wad you if I could work out how :kiss2:

Recent resources I'd recommend are http://simplestrengthbook.com/ by Mercedes Pollmeier:
A good strength-progression book for those on the road or expedition,as no exercises need equipment. A nice profiling progression for coaches too, split into three basic movement categories: The press, the squat and the back bend. Not sure why pulling and the hip hinge have been excluded though. For serious climbers I think most of the progressions will be a bit too easy (hardest squat option is pistol, hardest press is 1hand/1leg push-up), but the back bend should give most a good challenge! All in all loads of good mobility and strength exercises well presented.

And also https://theclimbingdoctor.com/product/climb-injury-free-5/ by physio Jared Vagy:
Another injury book to complement Dave Macleods and Volker Schoffels, this one is very much a DIY rehab book, with good clear progressions for a selection of common injuries. Nice to see nerve glides in there alongside the usual stuff. The movement advice given at the end of each program is very basic and sometimes dodgy (eg 'to avoid pulley injuries, perform more static movements'), and sometimes contradicts a different piece of advice. Also slightly too many [43 pages of] glossy-photo'd celebrity endorsements (what do they know about injuries, are they doctors?) and shirt-off finger rehab shots for my uptight English tastes.
 
Nice article about how supplements likely make you a worse athlete, even when they have some small positive effect on average.

https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/sweat-science-performance-supplements/

paradoxically, taking what seems like a shortcut to better performance can nudge you toward doing a worse job on the basics.

A 2011 study in Taiwan illustrates this. Researchers gave a group of volunteers an inert supplement, telling half of them that it was a multivitamin and the other half that it was a placebo. Both segments thought they were helping with consumer product research, providing feedback on the size, shape, and texture of the pill. Then they completed a series of bogus consumer tests while the researchers monitored their behavior. While testing a pedometer, for example, those who thought they’d taken a multivitamin didn’t walk as far as the placebo group; at lunch, they were more likely to overdo it at the buffet table than to select the healthy organic option.
(here is a link to the study: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/0956797611416253 )
(The litterature on the self-licencing bias is substantial and rapidly growing.)

I've always said that the way to figure out if a supplement work is to check if it is on FIDE's list of banned substances, but I think this argument might be even better:

These disadvantages might be worth tolerating if any of them really did deliver a significant edge. What would that look like? Think of the recent furor over carbon-plated running shoes: a demonstrated performance boost of as much as 3 percent has completely upended the sport. The reason supplements haven’t had a similar impact isn’t because they’re a secret that only Andrew Huberman’s listeners know about. It’s because they don’t work in any meaningful way.

Argue how much Creatine help you below this line
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I did a full year (2022) of non cycled creatine and a year without (2023) and I couldn’t tell any difference tbh
 
jwi said:
Argue how much Creatine help you below this line
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Interesting. Whilst the study confirms that most people in a population will take a supplement then train less hard / eat worse / etc., this cannot apply to those who are completely devoted to the church of training and diet! I (for example) would never miss a training session or try less hard due to using creatine because I train with set percentages or RPE caps and record everything I do in a training diary and count my macronutrient intake every day. Therefore, the proven benefits of creatine should apply, as have been shown in countless studies and meta analyses and are now almost universally accepted.

Bias disclaimer - I've been using creatine monohydrate daily for over 10 years based on the positive research and trivial financial cost. Whenever I've taken a small break, I lose around 1-2kg and a few reps off of my strength exercises. Of course this could be placebo but that does not matter to me.
 
Out of interest, how much do you take daily, Liam? And do you have a view on the merits of mono hydrate vs fancier versions? Asking for a friend. Thanks.
 
I always found I got worse forearm pump when taking creatine.

If using weight of evidence as your guide then there's more weight of evidence showing a performance benefit for creatine, beta alanine or high nitrate than there is for them showing worse performance due to 'licencing bias'. One study - which wasn't using creatine/BA/nitrate - showing a 'licence bias' is interesting but not very convincing.
 
mrjonathanr said:
Out of interest, how much do you take daily, Liam? And do you have a view on the merits of mono hydrate vs fancier versions? Asking for a friend. Thanks.

The fancier versions are just marketing. Well, they might offer the faster absorption that they promise, but this wouldn't actually be much of a benefit. Creatine taken daily builds up in the body to reach peak concentration in around a month and would similarly take around a month to leave the body after discontinuing use. This means that the rate of absorption isn't important for long term use. Just take the cheap monohydrate once a day at any time and let it do it's thing. I use 5g daily.
 
Thanks, I thought pretty much the same. I take less but might up the ante and see if it does anything noticeable for recovery.
 
I've never dabbled in supplements before, but give how much difference to my mood, energy and general well being 6 week of keto did for me, I'm considering all options.

Seems like low dose creatine is reasonably regarded for power aspects, and beta-alanine for the 1-3 min endurance. Does it matter where you get it from? Any good online shops to trust?
 


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