Simon Lee
insect overlord #1
Below are links to the UK climbing performance coaches I am aware of, books that I recommend and articles on the web I found. The articles are listed and grouped by the authors I recognised followed by a Lucky Dip section. It is an updated version of something I did on UKC a few years ago.
Let me know and I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites/coaches and we can post it up as an article on the front page for future reference and keep it up to date by linking new articles and taking out deadlinks.
UK Climbing coaches:
John Kettle (Lakes) www.johnkettle.com
Simon Rawlinson and Paul Walters (South Wales) info@makethenextmove.co.uk Coaching site
Nik Jennings (Yorks/Lancs border I think) AKA nik at work UKB Profile nik_jennings@yahoo.co.uk Coaching site
Johnny Dawes dawesjohnny86@gmail.com
Mark McGowan (Scotland) markmcgowan01@gmail.com UKB profile Coaching site
Dylan Fletcher (Sheffield) Dylanfletcher@gmail.com AKA Dylan UKB profile
Drew Haigh (North England) drew@chalk-bags.com AKA Drewski RootbitchUKB profile
Tom Randall (Sheffield)AKA Tommy UKB profile
Steve Golley (South England) info@climbingmasterclass.comAKa SteGUKB profile
Mark Reeves (N Wales) mark.reeves@mac.com
Robbie Phillips (Scotland) robz@robbiephillips.co.uk
Katherine Schirmacher (North England) katherine@lovetoclimb.co.uk
Steve McClure (North England) verticalglobe@hotmail.com
Ben Heason (North England) benheason@googlemail.com
Mark Pretty (North England) markzippypretty@hotmail.co.uk
Gareth Parry (North West) gazclimber@hotmail.com
Lucy Creamer (North England) lucy@lucycreamer.com
Neil Gresham (South England) info@climbingmasterclass.com
Tom Greenall (Sheffield) workforcepda@thearches.org.uk
Italian Climbing Coach !
Roberto Bagnoli (Firenze) info@climbingtraining.it AKA GuruUKB profile
Recommended Books:
(US) Performance Climbing – the book that got the ball rolling
(US) Self Coached Climber – the successor to Performance Rock Climbing
(UK) 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes –Macleod’s ball buster - gold dust. Idiots will complain about lack of editing and pretty pictures. Ignore them
(Sp) Planificacion del Entrenamiento en Escalada Deportiva by David Macia – No official translation. Impressive but hard to use to construct a training programme
Presentations from BMC Coaching Symposium 2011
Competition Preparation by Ian Dunn
Periodisation by Tom Randall
Principles of Training by Dave Binney
Articles on the web:
John Kettle (Coach)
Movement Inprovement
Doug Hunter and Dan Hague (authors of Self Coached Climber) categorised blog site:
Physical training
Movement training
General
Competition
Arran Deakin (Scone maker)
Principles of traing
Strength and power
How we get stronger
Endurance Part1
Endurance Part2
[/quote]
Steve Bechtel (Coach)
Climb Strong
Pull-Ups Are A Waste of Time
Exercises
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part one
Hangboard Training for Finger Strength - The Basics
3-Tier Plan
Less is More - One Reason Your Training Plan is Failing
Six Week Strength-Endurance Build
Adrian Berry (Coach)
Time to Train
5 things you can do at the climbing wall to improve your outdoor leading
Eva Lopez (Fingerboard designer and researcher)
Her blog on training
Series of fingerboard instructional videos
Her research paper (payment required): The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
Training Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing. Are dead hangs the right way to do it?
Series of articles on locking off:
Lock-off Strength Training (I). Does Static (lock-offs) Training have any Effect over Dynamic (pull-ups) Performance?
Lock-off training (II) Does our locking-off ability have any influence on our performance? Is it so important to train it?
Lock-off training (III) Do you really lock-off?
Lock-off Training in Sport Climbing (IV). A Review of several Methods and an Introduction to Explosive Lock-Offs
Dan Varian (Beastie boy #1) aka Carlisle Slapper
[http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training]General fingerboard advice[/url]
Ned Feehally (Beastie boy #2)
Video:Fingerboard Training – Beginner
Fingerboard Training – Advanced
Stretching
Fingerboard training plans
Crusher Holds / Paul Robins
A comprehensive guide to fingerboard traing
Heather Clark
Weight Management for Climbers
Nutrition for bouldering
Steve Bechtel / Climb Strong
Off-Season Build 1 (4 weeks)
Six Week Strength-Endurance Build
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part one
Exercises
Forearm Hypertrophy Training
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part two
About
Hangboard Training for Finger Strength - The Basics
Leg Strength as a Limiting Factor, Revisited
Call It What You Want, Periodized Training Works.
The Simplest Climbing Training Plan
Pull-Ups Are A Waste of Time
Neil Gresham
5 Things you can do to improve your bouldering
Neil Greshams Planetfear articles
Self-coaching
Learning From Other Sports
Mid season training
Building a home board
Foot off boards
Warming Up
Training Juniors 1
Training Juniors 2
Working Weaknesses
Arm Movements
Isolation Training
Weight Training
System Training
Bouldering for Strength
Advanced Bouldering Exercises
Campus Boarding
Finger Boarding
Finger Strength Training
SACC Training
Interval Training
Endurance Training
Competition Training
Mid-Season Top-Up
Articles by Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing )
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
Complex Training
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers
Prof Juan Martín Miranda (Marvin)
Training: Boulder or routes?
Core Training
Campus board training
The training load in sport climbing
Strength training for climbing: The system training method
Contact strength Part 1 and 2
Programming and organisation of training
How much last a boulder session?
Maximum climbing performance. A matter of head
Interbloque: special boulder training
Creatine supplementation
Restoring the work capacity after a climbing session
Strength training methods for elite climbers
How to accelerate recovery?
Stiffened forearms in climbing
From athletics methodology to climbing. Fartlek method.
Training for climbing competitions
Speed Climbing Traing Part 1,2 and 3
Training for climbing. Is really necessary?
Nutritional aspects to optimize climbing training and performance
A wrong way of life
Adding extra weight to your climbing training session
Bad luck for campus
Dave MacLeod
Dave regularly posts on his training blog
He has sub-divided the blogs into the following searchable categories including: Planning your training (27) Physical Training (25) Perspective (21) Practical (20) Injuries (19) Tactics (16) Web Resources (15) Inspiration (13) Pro-tips (12) Reviews (12) Technique Drills (11) Coaching (10) Young climbers (7) Beginners (5) Interviews (5) New research (5) overtraining (5) Body composition (4) basic technique (4) mental training (4) rock shoes (4) strength (4) periodisation (3) endurance training (2) fingerboarding (2) rest (2) Female climbers (1) Rock 'til you drop (1) finger pullies (1) nutrition (1) weight (1)
He has also written six ‘coachwise’ articles here
Introduction to the CoachWise Articles
How to get the best from these coaching articles
Part 1: Don't Stray Off-Route
The 'Big Three Factors' of movement, finger strength and body mass.
Part 2: The Work is the Easy Part...
Preventing everyday life sapping your motivation to train whether your'e starting from scratch or have reached a plateau.
Part 3: Creatures of Habit
Ingrained habits that are holding you back
Part 4: Fail well, climb it next time
The fear of failure and turning failure to your advantage
Part 5: Choose Your Heroes and your Coaches Carefully
Dave's advice on who to look to for the best advice - great coaches or great climbers?
Part 6: Count Your Battle Scars
Climbing walls have been a godsend for modern training, but you have to go back to climbing outdoors to become 'Battle Hardened'
His undergraduate paper is
here (Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance)
Ben Moon’s site
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Endurance Training
Core body – the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training Questionnaire
Training and Goal Setting
Power Training
Training Plan
Warming Up
Warming Down
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Campus Boarding
Fingerboard
Fingerboard Training Plan
Bouldering Training
Systems Training
Systems Training Plan
Audry Morrison (Scientist)
Review of the physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers – abstract of paper
Marius Morstad OTE articles
Training Endurance
Training Strength
Lucky Dip
http://www.8a.nu/site2/ Click>articles Click>training:
Steve McClure Training – engrams
Training 40+
Five common gripping positions
Technical Endurance advice
Hangboarding
Training and performance in Slovenia
Stativ vs Dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Specific finger position training
Recruitment finger training
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Lactid Acid
Shortcuts to 8a
rockclimbing.com
The making of a Rock Prodigy (Classic !)
Finger & Back/Arm Strength]Finger, Back and Arm Strength
Evaluating and choosing training activities by Doug Hunter co-author of the Self Coached Climber
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,0,4,0,training.html
Theraband - Training the Opposing Muscles
Josune Bereziartu on Training
John Gill on Training
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon/Lynn Hill/Francois Legrand/Josune Bereziartu/Jerry Moffat/Malcolm Smith
http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
pdf download: Training Manual for Competition Climbing
http://www.bodyresults.com/S1Climb.asp
Program Development
Unilateral and Bilateral Climbing Exercises
Stretching, Injury Prevention and Rehab
Climbing Drills
Outdoor Sports Conditioning
General Strength Training Guidelines
Increase Your Pullups
www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/training/
Strength
Burst or Explosive Power
Endurance
Strength and Endurance
Aerobic Capacity
Counting Food Carbohydrates
Hand exercises and grip strength training
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/how-to-guides.html
Training Guide
10 Minute Training Sequence
Training with Simulator
Training with Pure Force
Training with Rock Rings
http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm (Italian site)
Power
Strength
Endurance
Technique and flow
Intensity
Recovery
Dynos
Plyometric training
http://www.climbingwalls.net/training.html
Power & Power Endurance, Strength Training and Endurance Training
http://www.climbing.com.au/science_climbing.htm
Collection of science articles
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/training.html
Chin Ups
Climbing Exercises
Climbing Games
Climbing Technique
Forearm Exercise
How Muscles Work
Mental Control
Muscle Stretching
Overtraining
Route Setting
Training Plans
Training Principles
Carbohydrates
Carbohydrate Loading
Daily Protein Requirement
Food Fats
Protein Foods
Huw George (Who he?) on core stability (Planetfear)
Let me know and I can add any other links to other useful articles/material/sites/coaches and we can post it up as an article on the front page for future reference and keep it up to date by linking new articles and taking out deadlinks.
UK Climbing coaches:
John Kettle (Lakes) www.johnkettle.com
Simon Rawlinson and Paul Walters (South Wales) info@makethenextmove.co.uk Coaching site
Nik Jennings (Yorks/Lancs border I think) AKA nik at work UKB Profile nik_jennings@yahoo.co.uk Coaching site
Johnny Dawes dawesjohnny86@gmail.com
Mark McGowan (Scotland) markmcgowan01@gmail.com UKB profile Coaching site
Dylan Fletcher (Sheffield) Dylanfletcher@gmail.com AKA Dylan UKB profile
Drew Haigh (North England) drew@chalk-bags.com AKA Drewski RootbitchUKB profile
Tom Randall (Sheffield)AKA Tommy UKB profile
Steve Golley (South England) info@climbingmasterclass.comAKa SteGUKB profile
Mark Reeves (N Wales) mark.reeves@mac.com
Robbie Phillips (Scotland) robz@robbiephillips.co.uk
Katherine Schirmacher (North England) katherine@lovetoclimb.co.uk
Steve McClure (North England) verticalglobe@hotmail.com
Ben Heason (North England) benheason@googlemail.com
Mark Pretty (North England) markzippypretty@hotmail.co.uk
Gareth Parry (North West) gazclimber@hotmail.com
Lucy Creamer (North England) lucy@lucycreamer.com
Neil Gresham (South England) info@climbingmasterclass.com
Tom Greenall (Sheffield) workforcepda@thearches.org.uk
Italian Climbing Coach !
Roberto Bagnoli (Firenze) info@climbingtraining.it AKA GuruUKB profile
Recommended Books:
(US) Performance Climbing – the book that got the ball rolling
(US) Self Coached Climber – the successor to Performance Rock Climbing
(UK) 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes –Macleod’s ball buster - gold dust. Idiots will complain about lack of editing and pretty pictures. Ignore them
(Sp) Planificacion del Entrenamiento en Escalada Deportiva by David Macia – No official translation. Impressive but hard to use to construct a training programme
Presentations from BMC Coaching Symposium 2011
Competition Preparation by Ian Dunn
Periodisation by Tom Randall
Principles of Training by Dave Binney
Articles on the web:
John Kettle (Coach)
Movement Inprovement
Doug Hunter and Dan Hague (authors of Self Coached Climber) categorised blog site:
Physical training
Movement training
General
Competition
Arran Deakin (Scone maker)
Principles of traing
Strength and power
How we get stronger
Endurance Part1
Endurance Part2
[/quote]
Steve Bechtel (Coach)
Climb Strong
Pull-Ups Are A Waste of Time
Exercises
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part one
Hangboard Training for Finger Strength - The Basics
3-Tier Plan
Less is More - One Reason Your Training Plan is Failing
Six Week Strength-Endurance Build
Adrian Berry (Coach)
Time to Train
5 things you can do at the climbing wall to improve your outdoor leading
Eva Lopez (Fingerboard designer and researcher)
Her blog on training
Series of fingerboard instructional videos
Her research paper (payment required): The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers
Training Pinch Grip Strength for Climbing. Are dead hangs the right way to do it?
Series of articles on locking off:
Lock-off Strength Training (I). Does Static (lock-offs) Training have any Effect over Dynamic (pull-ups) Performance?
Lock-off training (II) Does our locking-off ability have any influence on our performance? Is it so important to train it?
Lock-off training (III) Do you really lock-off?
Lock-off Training in Sport Climbing (IV). A Review of several Methods and an Introduction to Explosive Lock-Offs
Dan Varian (Beastie boy #1) aka Carlisle Slapper
[http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/pages/training]General fingerboard advice[/url]
Ned Feehally (Beastie boy #2)
Video:Fingerboard Training – Beginner
Fingerboard Training – Advanced
Stretching
Fingerboard training plans
Crusher Holds / Paul Robins
A comprehensive guide to fingerboard traing
Heather Clark
Weight Management for Climbers
Nutrition for bouldering
Steve Bechtel / Climb Strong
Off-Season Build 1 (4 weeks)
Six Week Strength-Endurance Build
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part one
Exercises
Forearm Hypertrophy Training
Strength Training for Rock Climbing, part two
About
Hangboard Training for Finger Strength - The Basics
Leg Strength as a Limiting Factor, Revisited
Call It What You Want, Periodized Training Works.
The Simplest Climbing Training Plan
Pull-Ups Are A Waste of Time
Neil Gresham
5 Things you can do to improve your bouldering
Neil Greshams Planetfear articles
Self-coaching
Learning From Other Sports
Mid season training
Building a home board
Foot off boards
Warming Up
Training Juniors 1
Training Juniors 2
Working Weaknesses
Arm Movements
Isolation Training
Weight Training
System Training
Bouldering for Strength
Advanced Bouldering Exercises
Campus Boarding
Finger Boarding
Finger Strength Training
SACC Training
Interval Training
Endurance Training
Competition Training
Mid-Season Top-Up
Articles by Eric Horst (Author of Training for Climbing )
Training in Accordance to the "SAID" Principle
Three Cornerstone Principles of Effective Training
An Overview of Power & Strength Training
How To Increase "Pull Strength" by 20 Percent!
Is Climbing the Best Training for Climbing
High-Value Training: Working the Antagonists
Bouldering as Training for Climbing
Hypergravity Isolation Training for Max Grip Strength
HIT Workout Details for Maximum Grip Strength
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 1
Sport-Specific Training with Pump Rocks - Part 2
Effective Fingerboard Training - Part 1
Training the Core Muscles
Eastern Bloc Training: Heavy Finger Rolls
Training at the Crags
Effective Pull-up Training
Developing "Limit" Strength
Low-Risk Campus Training for Power & Grip Strength - Part 1
Campus Training for Strength & Power - Part 2
Best of "Pump Rock" Training
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 1
Training Muscular Endurance - Part 2
Complex Training
The Benefits of Pilates for Climbers
Physioball Exercises for Your Core
Research: The Physiology of Difficult Rock Climbing
Pilates Training for Climbers
Prof Juan Martín Miranda (Marvin)
Training: Boulder or routes?
Core Training
Campus board training
The training load in sport climbing
Strength training for climbing: The system training method
Contact strength Part 1 and 2
Programming and organisation of training
How much last a boulder session?
Maximum climbing performance. A matter of head
Interbloque: special boulder training
Creatine supplementation
Restoring the work capacity after a climbing session
Strength training methods for elite climbers
How to accelerate recovery?
Stiffened forearms in climbing
From athletics methodology to climbing. Fartlek method.
Training for climbing competitions
Speed Climbing Traing Part 1,2 and 3
Training for climbing. Is really necessary?
Nutritional aspects to optimize climbing training and performance
A wrong way of life
Adding extra weight to your climbing training session
Bad luck for campus
Dave MacLeod
Dave regularly posts on his training blog
He has sub-divided the blogs into the following searchable categories including: Planning your training (27) Physical Training (25) Perspective (21) Practical (20) Injuries (19) Tactics (16) Web Resources (15) Inspiration (13) Pro-tips (12) Reviews (12) Technique Drills (11) Coaching (10) Young climbers (7) Beginners (5) Interviews (5) New research (5) overtraining (5) Body composition (4) basic technique (4) mental training (4) rock shoes (4) strength (4) periodisation (3) endurance training (2) fingerboarding (2) rest (2) Female climbers (1) Rock 'til you drop (1) finger pullies (1) nutrition (1) weight (1)
He has also written six ‘coachwise’ articles here
Introduction to the CoachWise Articles
How to get the best from these coaching articles
Part 1: Don't Stray Off-Route
The 'Big Three Factors' of movement, finger strength and body mass.
Part 2: The Work is the Easy Part...
Preventing everyday life sapping your motivation to train whether your'e starting from scratch or have reached a plateau.
Part 3: Creatures of Habit
Ingrained habits that are holding you back
Part 4: Fail well, climb it next time
The fear of failure and turning failure to your advantage
Part 5: Choose Your Heroes and your Coaches Carefully
Dave's advice on who to look to for the best advice - great coaches or great climbers?
Part 6: Count Your Battle Scars
Climbing walls have been a godsend for modern training, but you have to go back to climbing outdoors to become 'Battle Hardened'
His undergraduate paper is
here (Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance)
Ben Moon’s site
10 Ways to revamp your climbing
Principles of planning your climbing year
The 3 training phases for climbing
Using a training diary
Endurance Training
Core body – the missing link
Introduction to Training
Training Questionnaire
Training and Goal Setting
Power Training
Training Plan
Warming Up
Warming Down
Flexibility and Stretching Intro
Stretches Lower Body
Stretches Upper Body
Campus Boarding
Fingerboard
Fingerboard Training Plan
Bouldering Training
Systems Training
Systems Training Plan
Audry Morrison (Scientist)
Review of the physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers – abstract of paper
Marius Morstad OTE articles
Training Endurance
Training Strength
Lucky Dip
http://www.8a.nu/site2/ Click>articles Click>training:
Steve McClure Training – engrams
Training 40+
Five common gripping positions
Technical Endurance advice
Hangboarding
Training and performance in Slovenia
Stativ vs Dynamic technique
Pump and how to avoid it
DYNOING - A ballastic science: Fly, baby fly?
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms
Power Endurance - McClure
Specific finger position training
Recruitment finger training
Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus
Lactid Acid
Shortcuts to 8a
rockclimbing.com
The making of a Rock Prodigy (Classic !)
Finger & Back/Arm Strength]Finger, Back and Arm Strength
Evaluating and choosing training activities by Doug Hunter co-author of the Self Coached Climber
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,0,4,0,training.html
Theraband - Training the Opposing Muscles
Josune Bereziartu on Training
John Gill on Training
Listen to the Master series: Ben Moon/Lynn Hill/Francois Legrand/Josune Bereziartu/Jerry Moffat/Malcolm Smith
http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
pdf download: Training Manual for Competition Climbing
http://www.bodyresults.com/S1Climb.asp
Program Development
Unilateral and Bilateral Climbing Exercises
Stretching, Injury Prevention and Rehab
Climbing Drills
Outdoor Sports Conditioning
General Strength Training Guidelines
Increase Your Pullups
www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/training/
Strength
Burst or Explosive Power
Endurance
Strength and Endurance
Aerobic Capacity
Counting Food Carbohydrates
Hand exercises and grip strength training
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/how-to-guides.html
Training Guide
10 Minute Training Sequence
Training with Simulator
Training with Pure Force
Training with Rock Rings
http://www.jollypower.com/jollyhomeI.htm (Italian site)
Power
Strength
Endurance
Technique and flow
Intensity
Recovery
Dynos
Plyometric training
http://www.climbingwalls.net/training.html
Power & Power Endurance, Strength Training and Endurance Training
http://www.climbing.com.au/science_climbing.htm
Collection of science articles
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/training.html
Chin Ups
Climbing Exercises
Climbing Games
Climbing Technique
Forearm Exercise
How Muscles Work
Mental Control
Muscle Stretching
Overtraining
Route Setting
Training Plans
Training Principles
Carbohydrates
Carbohydrate Loading
Daily Protein Requirement
Food Fats
Protein Foods
Huw George (Who he?) on core stability (Planetfear)