resources: Training (Coaches, books and web articles)

[Nibile]

I found this interesting, although mainly addressed to the lower body. Bodyweight excercises with a few routines.
https://usagym.org/pages/home/publications/technique/2009/01/16_bodyweight.pdf

 

[Nibile]

Still on T-nation, a site with a lot of useful information, and the only site I've ever found in which they make clear the difference between being big and being strong.
A nice article about training power in commercial gyms.
http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/commercial_gym_power

 

[Big Dave]

There are some excellent articles and information on the t-nation site/blog. However, they do like to advertise some of their products in the articles sometimes which is a bit annoying, but I just ignore that.

 

[thekettle]

Steve Betchel of Climbstrong has recenty published a rather good mini-book on interval training for power endurance:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Climb-Strong-Endurance-Steve-Bechtel/dp/1470046156/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348341994&sr=8-1-fkmr0

 

[Nibile]

This could easily pi** off many ones, but I think it's interesting.
Opinions? Science?
http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/most_recent/conditioning_is_a_sham

 

[Muenchener]

loading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the work

What's that Tony Yaniro quote? Something like "if you can't do the moves, there is nothing to endure"

 

[sebpoch]

very useful list with some of very good links :goodidea:

 

[krymson]

I thought this was a good interview with advice along the lines of Dave's 9 out of 10.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68093&utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

I guess the interview is notable in that it is not about training performance at all, but a more gestalt view - that there is more to athlete development than the pure development of performance, and that it is important to recognize the importance and impact of things like --the "human relationship"(your social environment), your motivations, and balancing hard training with the oft neglected injury prevention.

There is some more details in this other interview as well.

If you're looking for specific performance advice this isn't it, but for thoughts about long term development i think it's good.

 

[mrjonathanr]

loading 200 bales of hay is only an endurance task to a guy that's strong enough to actually perform the work

What's that Tony Yaniro quote? Something like "if you can't do the moves, there is nothing to endure"

Here's a Yaniro quote:
" Never, ever pass up an opportunity to get pumped. "

Maybe route climbers should train the lot...
8a+ in 1979...

 

[krymson]

http://scoobysworkshop.com/

Really solid advice about lifting and working out in general from a guy who knows what he's on about, taught in an approachable way.

Besides a good understanding of whats important and not, he really goes into depth about how to properly do exercises. For example, he doesn't just coach you on shouder raises, but on how you should concentrate on the pinky and lift slowly. He doesn't just teach you the motion of a dumbbell press but explains the importance of keeping your shoulders packed while doing the press.

 

[krymson]

http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/training/protips.asp?article=2

An older and more mature Malc on training for bouldering

And more on the main pro tips page: http://www.climbingmasterclass.com/training/protips.asp

 

[Muenchener]

Steve House: Training for the New Alpinism

Amazon page already up for Steve Houses's training book.

Not much to do with bouldering I know, nor can I imagine why the book won't be released until March when review copies apparently already exist. That isn't going to help anybody's pre-monsoon season..

 

[SA Chris]

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Useful_Injury_and_Training_Articles

I've edited the wiki so if anyone finds any especially useful stuff it can go in there now.

 

[slackline]

http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/Useful_Injury_and_Training_Articles

I've edited the wiki so if anyone finds any especially useful stuff it can go in there now.

There are already training and injury pages linked from the Bouldering FAQ section.

Just started moving the link you included around and Julian Sanders pages are already linked from the Elbow page, I've now included it on the Shoulder and Pulley pages.

I spent some time reformatting what GCW wrote on pulleys a while ago, if you want to re-write the three separate injury pages into one coherent one that would be useful.

 

[krymson]

A nice rundown of training apparatus including analysis of fingerboards, different types of campus boards, pinch trainers, dumbbells, and more obscure pieces like swivelbars, rings, and so on. Good read!

http://www.restjug.com/2013/12/the-ideal-gym-part-1-upper-body-conditioning

 

[slackline]

A nice rundown of training apparatus including analysis of fingerboards, different types of campus boards, pinch trainers, dumbbells, and more obscure pieces like swivelbars, rings, and so on. Good read!

http://www.restjug.com/2013/12/the-ideal-gym-part-1-upper-body-conditioning

Added to the Wiki

 

[Muenchener]

I just looked at the table of contents of Steve House's new book Training For The New Alpinism

I know it's somewhat off-topic for us here, and the idea that there might be any threat of me engaging in "The New Alpinism" is to laugh, but just look at some of the people interviewed/quoted: Tony Yaniro. Peter Habeler. Vojtek Kurtyka. Will Gadd. Barry Blanchard. Ines Papert. Colin Haley ... a complete Who's Who of Gnarliness. I am totally buying this book.

 

[Nibile]

http://www.t-nation.com/training/negatives-youre-doing-them-wrong
An interesting article about negatives.
I finally understand why they never worked for me en route to one armers. I was doing them wrong.

 

[erm sam]

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/slow-and-eccentric-strength-training.html

She says that unless your negatives are done with more weight than your er, positives you are wasting your time. I think.

 

[Nibile]

I have not read the Lopez's one, but if she says so, she agrees with the one I linked.