[Sam]

in the rockfax this is described as going over the roof, the shiny new bolts & cleaning (thanks to JC) only extend to under the roof, with the lip being dusty and having lots of cobwebs and a large loose flake.  Is this new version considered to do away with some contrivance/crap climbing/bad rock.  7c+? or is the 'fax wrong? Good moves up the groove to said roof (any beta on the best method to get the sloper in control? Ta) 

[Peanuts]

No roof, no tick. This is probably the redpoint crux, usually a bit dirty but I dont remember much loose stuff.

[antham]

Defo not the red point crux....
Anyway a tad cleaner now...using the large ticked undercut in the roof the lose flake (identified by chalk XXX) can be avoided...caution still required. Good finger jug back of ledge (a bit dirty) to clip belay (two old but reasonably looking bolts, one with insitu crab). CARE REQUIRED LOWERING OFF TO KEEP ROPE FROM RUNNING OVER LOSE FLAKE!

[shark]

From what antham said last night the loose flake would benfit from sica.

[antham]

Having been on this again, I'm of the opinion its best to finish at last bolt below roof. Loose rock appears to comprise the whole band on the lip of the roof as oppose to just one flake. Climbingwise it does not alter the grade as the moves over the roof are on large holds (...but possibly not for much longer) so long as the last bolt is clipped from the holds just under the roof and not grabbed!