Here’s some more new ones. Ranging from the scrappy to the excellent. Thought I’d make an effort to document while the decent conditions prevail. I’ll put some more pics on insta to assist with ID.
Froggatt
Marrowfat – 7A
The left arete/prow of the Jetpack roof from a low sit start on opposing edges
Blue 48 - 7B (7A+ stand)
The right arete of the Green 45 roof from a sit start (no ledge on right at start). It’s a big move, the grade is for average height climber.
Climby Fissure - 6C
On the downhill face of the Jetpack boulder. Left to right traverse finishing up the arete. Start at the left end of the lower horizontal break (Scandalous 7B follows the upper break r to L). A reverse link of this into Scandalous is an obvious fierce project.
D for Damager – 7A
Left to right traverse of the main break on the Renegade Master block. Start sitting left of Screaming Dream, finish round the corner at the end of the break. Tricky section passing Dave’s Dyno.
Rampeau – 6B
Almost certainly done before (possibly by Mark Brigham Smith) but good and unrecorded. On the the slabby wall just under Rambeau. Climb it left of centre via the ramp (no left arete).
Wyming Brook
** Wym Crime – 7A+
Highball left arete of the righhand bit of Broken Bottle Buttress (the wall to the right is Ned’s Heinz Sight 7C). Starts on the left side and quickly moves onto the right.
Downing 10 Street – 6C
50 right of Broken Bottle Buttress is a small steep wall. Climb this from a sit start via edges and ramp to the break (topout heavily overgrown).
Padley Quarry
Longshaw Zombies – 7A+/7B
In the middle of the quarry is a fairly obvious blank slab with an undercut. Climb this till a good hold and escape left once the thin break is reached. Adam managed the more direct finish which finished by gaining the curving crack (climbed by Adam at about 6B I think, looks good) on the right. Squeezed in super-direct finish still to do. FA direct version – Adam long
Yarncliffe
Ant Another Thing - 7A
Link up on Anty Gravity block. Sit start as for Ant Agony and follow a rising diagonal to topout at the end of the sloping ledge.
Burbage North
Croissant Arete – 6C
Past Boyager, at the far end of the woods, almost as far as Three Blind Mice, is a slab with and undercut curving left arete. Climb the arete
Croissant Slab – 7A
The slab right of the arete, with a hard pull on (no pad stacking).
Lawrencefield
Pucker Off - 6A+
The left groove of Simmer Down and Pucker Up (on All the King’s Horses boulder). Fairly trivial.
Osmosis Direct - 7A
Direct version of Olly G’s arete. Stay on arete and avoid good hold round right. Decent.
Wharncliffe
Lookout Roof – 6C
Right side of Outlook Roof. Big reach and cutloose above a bit of a spicy drop off. Very reach dependant.
Curbar
These are all in the same rough area as Petit Jesu.
Bump n Grind – 6C
Sit start on flake under the little steep block directly right of Petit Jesu. Gain slopey lip and then top.
Jutland – 6B
Below Crispy Noodling is a prominent jutting block. Climb this via the good hold to an exciting finish.
* Scroll Power – 7B
Further below Crispy Noodling is an undercut prow, vaguely reminiscent of Sole Power. Climb this from stood on the shelf. Really good.
Sep Arete – 6B+
Right arete of the block right of Scroll Power, from sitting. File under random warm-up.
Scroll On – 6A
The crack left of Scroll Power is good and tougher than expected. The arete to the left is also about 6A.
Petit Jesu – This has been reclimbed since losing a hold on the lower section. I’ve also cleaned up and stabilised the other flaky bits, so should be solid and stable now. Harder and better than it was originally, but still 7a from stand or sit.
Petit Nut Crack – 6C
Link the sit start of PJ into Crunchy Nut Crack. Linky.
*Big Jesus – 7A+
Start up PJ sitter then head left at the lip to finish up juggy flutings at the apex of the block. Good, exciting. FA – Dave Parry
Skipper – 6B+
The right arete of Hopper climbed on it’s right side. Decent.
Baltic State – 6C
The far left side of the face with Big Friday on has an undercut groove. Start in the break down and right, climb up into the groove, exit right out of it. Decent.
The Beagus Has Landed – 7A+
About 30m below Petit Jesu is a steep little prow with a nice round pocket. From a low sit start on the right (easier from higher sit with hands in edgy break) work left into pocket and up the prow. Small but good.
Mono or Nono? – 7B
Little wall with drilled mono below the path, below TBHL (on the way to Ultimate Gritstone experience). Obvious hard sit start remains to be done.
Black Tor
Bella Emberg – 7A+
Fridge hugging sit start to Molly Sugden on Baby Wolverine slab.
Bitholmes Wood
See UKC database for crag description, access etc. It’s basically the woods opposite the RH end of Wharncliffe. Big crag with one really good block. All the variant are top draw, especially the harder two.
** One Redeeming Feature - 7C+
Climb the steep prow via uneven compression, from a standing start with a foot on the small stuck block at the back of the roof.
* Block Stander – 7B+
Entry level variant using both the large blocks under the roof.
* One Block Sitter – 7C
A sitter, starting on and using the largest of the base blocks only.
** Total Redemption - 8A
The full squeeze. Stand start on lowest undercut and arete below the prominent overlap. FA - Ned Feehally
Froggatt
Marrowfat – 7A
The left arete/prow of the Jetpack roof from a low sit start on opposing edges
Blue 48 - 7B (7A+ stand)
The right arete of the Green 45 roof from a sit start (no ledge on right at start). It’s a big move, the grade is for average height climber.
Climby Fissure - 6C
On the downhill face of the Jetpack boulder. Left to right traverse finishing up the arete. Start at the left end of the lower horizontal break (Scandalous 7B follows the upper break r to L). A reverse link of this into Scandalous is an obvious fierce project.
D for Damager – 7A
Left to right traverse of the main break on the Renegade Master block. Start sitting left of Screaming Dream, finish round the corner at the end of the break. Tricky section passing Dave’s Dyno.
Rampeau – 6B
Almost certainly done before (possibly by Mark Brigham Smith) but good and unrecorded. On the the slabby wall just under Rambeau. Climb it left of centre via the ramp (no left arete).
Wyming Brook
** Wym Crime – 7A+
Highball left arete of the righhand bit of Broken Bottle Buttress (the wall to the right is Ned’s Heinz Sight 7C). Starts on the left side and quickly moves onto the right.
Downing 10 Street – 6C
50 right of Broken Bottle Buttress is a small steep wall. Climb this from a sit start via edges and ramp to the break (topout heavily overgrown).
Padley Quarry
Longshaw Zombies – 7A+/7B
In the middle of the quarry is a fairly obvious blank slab with an undercut. Climb this till a good hold and escape left once the thin break is reached. Adam managed the more direct finish which finished by gaining the curving crack (climbed by Adam at about 6B I think, looks good) on the right. Squeezed in super-direct finish still to do. FA direct version – Adam long
Yarncliffe
Ant Another Thing - 7A
Link up on Anty Gravity block. Sit start as for Ant Agony and follow a rising diagonal to topout at the end of the sloping ledge.
Burbage North
Croissant Arete – 6C
Past Boyager, at the far end of the woods, almost as far as Three Blind Mice, is a slab with and undercut curving left arete. Climb the arete
Croissant Slab – 7A
The slab right of the arete, with a hard pull on (no pad stacking).
Lawrencefield
Pucker Off - 6A+
The left groove of Simmer Down and Pucker Up (on All the King’s Horses boulder). Fairly trivial.
Osmosis Direct - 7A
Direct version of Olly G’s arete. Stay on arete and avoid good hold round right. Decent.
Wharncliffe
Lookout Roof – 6C
Right side of Outlook Roof. Big reach and cutloose above a bit of a spicy drop off. Very reach dependant.
Curbar
These are all in the same rough area as Petit Jesu.
Bump n Grind – 6C
Sit start on flake under the little steep block directly right of Petit Jesu. Gain slopey lip and then top.
Jutland – 6B
Below Crispy Noodling is a prominent jutting block. Climb this via the good hold to an exciting finish.
* Scroll Power – 7B
Further below Crispy Noodling is an undercut prow, vaguely reminiscent of Sole Power. Climb this from stood on the shelf. Really good.
Sep Arete – 6B+
Right arete of the block right of Scroll Power, from sitting. File under random warm-up.
Scroll On – 6A
The crack left of Scroll Power is good and tougher than expected. The arete to the left is also about 6A.
Petit Jesu – This has been reclimbed since losing a hold on the lower section. I’ve also cleaned up and stabilised the other flaky bits, so should be solid and stable now. Harder and better than it was originally, but still 7a from stand or sit.
Petit Nut Crack – 6C
Link the sit start of PJ into Crunchy Nut Crack. Linky.
*Big Jesus – 7A+
Start up PJ sitter then head left at the lip to finish up juggy flutings at the apex of the block. Good, exciting. FA – Dave Parry
Skipper – 6B+
The right arete of Hopper climbed on it’s right side. Decent.
Baltic State – 6C
The far left side of the face with Big Friday on has an undercut groove. Start in the break down and right, climb up into the groove, exit right out of it. Decent.
The Beagus Has Landed – 7A+
About 30m below Petit Jesu is a steep little prow with a nice round pocket. From a low sit start on the right (easier from higher sit with hands in edgy break) work left into pocket and up the prow. Small but good.
Mono or Nono? – 7B
Little wall with drilled mono below the path, below TBHL (on the way to Ultimate Gritstone experience). Obvious hard sit start remains to be done.
Black Tor
Bella Emberg – 7A+
Fridge hugging sit start to Molly Sugden on Baby Wolverine slab.
Bitholmes Wood
See UKC database for crag description, access etc. It’s basically the woods opposite the RH end of Wharncliffe. Big crag with one really good block. All the variant are top draw, especially the harder two.
** One Redeeming Feature - 7C+
Climb the steep prow via uneven compression, from a standing start with a foot on the small stuck block at the back of the roof.
* Block Stander – 7B+
Entry level variant using both the large blocks under the roof.
* One Block Sitter – 7C
A sitter, starting on and using the largest of the base blocks only.
** Total Redemption - 8A
The full squeeze. Stand start on lowest undercut and arete below the prominent overlap. FA - Ned Feehally
