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significant repeats (Read 2477891 times)

a dense loner

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#550 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2009, 07:42:58 am
can a crack come under the heading of a boulder problem, even if its on a boulder? the climbing is simply too hard, no matter how easy its supposed to be

slackline

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#551 Re: significant repeats
August 21, 2009, 08:58:05 am
can a crack come under the heading of a boulder problem, even if its on a boulder? the climbing is simply too hard, no matter how easy its supposed to be

Sure it can, no need for ropes here...


Adam Lincoln

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#552 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 05:33:06 pm
Smitton has done another 8c+. Bah Bah Black sheep at Ceuse.

GCW

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#553 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 06:13:25 pm
Awesome.  He should get himself down to Rivel........

benpritch

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#554 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:03:14 pm
Pete Robins climbed Liquid Ambar today.  Awesome effort.

cofe

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#555 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:24:17 pm
fucking wad. now that's a significant repeat. well done pete!

north_country_boy

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#556 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:39:08 pm
Pete Robins climbed Liquid Ambar today.  Awesome effort.

 :bow: Big Tick!! Great effort after what sounds like a period of determined dedication! Good Work Pete!  :thumbsup:

Falling Down

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#557 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:45:19 pm
Waddage due  :thumbsup:

Doylo

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#558 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:55:19 pm
I saw it from the road, wish i'd been down at the beach to see it. Proper war of attrition! Mega

SA Chris

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#559 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 09:56:13 pm
Awesome.  He should get himself down to Rivel........

lol. Big ticks both, top effort.

slackline

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#560 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 10:35:35 pm
Well done Pete!  :bow:

I'm sure some more robust reporting will come out in due course, but I met Toru in the Millstone Inn this evening so he's not left the UK just yet!!!

He's been staying at the North Lees campsite and Zaf (who I've got to know recently) is also staying there and has been out with him over the past week.

Apparently he racked up a "few" more E points today with....

Parthian Shot (w/direct start), placing gear on lead (!!! is this the first such ascent in this style?  Not sure if those Oz boys did similar in the dusk a year or so back?) and Meshuga between showers.

They were head-pointed, but not too many practices from what I understood.

Showed us a short vid of him flashing Brad Pit too (not sure if that was today or somewhen else though), but exceptionally smooth climbing.

Friendly and very humble guy, heading home tomorrow, and get this, apparently his brothers better than him!!


Forgot to ask where he was bouldering when he lost his mat though, sorry Alan.

butters

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#561 Re: significant repeats
August 25, 2009, 11:51:14 pm

Showed us a short vid of him flashing Brad Pit too (not sure if that was today or somewhen else though), but exceptionally smooth climbing.


This was done a few days ago I think - pretty sure that I read that on the other channel anyway.

220bpm

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#562 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 12:14:34 pm
Parthian Shot (w/direct start), placing gear on lead (!!! is this the first such ascent in this style?  Not sure if those Oz boys did similar in the dusk a year or so back?) and Meshuga between showers.

Pretty damn special by any standards, never mind a 15yr old.

'Kin good stuff  :bounce:


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#563 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 12:17:45 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.

slackline

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#564 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 12:20:09 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.

Surely this recent show of form negates the need to ever call grit season again  :shrug:

Think he's 16, but its semantics, what an amazing set of routes to have ticked, irrespective of age.  :bow:

dave

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#565 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 12:25:22 pm
it really is some antics.

SA Chris

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#566 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 12:26:48 pm
especially bear in mind the grit season hasn't officially been called yet.

Wich makes me wonder, is JB still in hibernation, or has he flown south.

Recent pic of JB emerging


grimer

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#567 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:08:53 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

slackline

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#568 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:09:28 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

No fucking idea, I've not even done Byne's Crack yet  :lol:

Doylo

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#569 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:14:37 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

Its quite long for a grit route and so fingers can get too cold on the lead in winter with the aspect of the crag. Thats what i've been told anyway. Probably best in spring /autumn

Jim

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#570 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:41:12 pm
you just wanted to go home grimer

dave

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#571 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:54:04 pm



cofe

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#572 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 02:59:14 pm
the parthian thing is impressive, but i think i'm still more inspired by pete and LA. hard work paying off.

T_B

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#573 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 03:05:16 pm
Is summer not the best time for Parthian? I know Seb did it in the summer to get the best conditions.

Seb told me that when he first tried Parthian, he did so in the winter, but his fingers got cold. I geared everything (in terms of training and prep) around doing it in early October when it wouldn't be too warm, nor too cold. That meant TRing it in September when it was still warm and getting abuse on this forum from know-alls about "some tw*t trying Parthian Shot when it was clearly too warm etc". No names no pack drill eh ;)  Sellers did it on a June evening too.

T_B

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#574 Re: significant repeats
August 26, 2009, 03:08:13 pm
the parthian thing is impressive, but i think i'm still more inspired by pete and LA. hard work paying off.

Same here TBH. Especially the change in physique - lean n mean!

 

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