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significant repeats (Read 2476083 times)

a dense loner

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#525 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:13:30 pm
yep mina did raccouri, which is the only place to start. the rest is nonsense. fantastic problem

thats not the first repeat reeve but don't let your floppy hair and headband get in the way of a good story

duncan

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#526 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:26:29 pm
I hope this isn't too much of a maverick report for a bouldering forum, but I'm sure some people will be interested. Tom Randall got the first repeat of Green Spit in Orco last week, touted as one of the worlds hardest cracks, at around F8b+.

Very much interested!  It's been a goal for some time from what I understand, he must be delighted.

He will be fourth (?) ascentionist after Didier Berthod, Nicolas Favresse and Sonnie Trotter which puts Tom in a pretty select group.



« Last Edit: August 03, 2009, 03:32:31 pm by duncan »

slackline

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#527 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:39:18 pm
Good work Tommy  :bow:

SA Chris

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#528 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:53:07 pm

He will be fourth (?) ascentionist after Didier Berthod, Nicolas Favresse and Sonnie Trotter which puts Tom in a pretty select (and godly) group.

Great effort Tom, you crack loving freak you. Need to tick the local list now.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10869.0.html

butters

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#529 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:56:22 pm
A fine effort by Tom there - it has had at least one repeat that I know of but still a fine bloody effort regardless.

Fiend

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#530 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 07:05:13 pm
Nice one Tommy, well deserved fo sho.

saltbeef

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#531 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 10:04:55 pm
...


Tommy

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#532 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 11:11:34 pm
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)

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#533 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 08:42:04 am
Ondra's flashed two confirmed 8Bs in Rocklands. In fifteen minutes.

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#534 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 10:05:15 am
At what point do we have to recalibrate amazement levels for Ondra achievements? For anyone else this would be amazing.

(not that I am negating the efforts, which is pretty astounding, but you know what I mean).

Drew

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#535 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 10:06:09 am
Ondra's flashed two confirmed 8Bs in Rocklands. In fifteen minutes.

Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?

Monolith

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#536 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 10:09:30 am
When he gets himself on the train to Carnforth.

Jaspersharpe

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#537 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 10:22:35 am
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?

Well he did fail on Amandla apparently.

Quote
   Yes! Being angry after failure in Amandla, I flashed this one! could not have been more lucky, huge fight! thanks to Marijus for beta!

It's not clear how long he actually spent trying it though.

Fiend

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#538 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 11:45:43 am
The Sheep at Burbage South is utter shit tho.

nodder

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#539 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 06:46:52 pm
Quote
Fuck! When is anything actually going to challenge him?



When he tries to buy booze...

Jim

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#540 Re: significant repeats
August 04, 2009, 09:37:59 pm
Good to see you thinking outside the rhombus there Nodder and getting life's priorities right

Bonjoy

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#541 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2009, 10:37:33 am
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)
You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests  french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.

grimer

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#542 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2009, 01:16:22 pm
I just wrote the 8c bit in the guide cos I was there one day with Sean Miles and he was tring it and that's what he said. He also said the problem would be placing gear. He said it would be easier with some pre-placed pre-clipped runners but it was around the time he had been involved in some ethical ramblimgs about Rodney Mullan so he didn't feel he wanted to get involved in any ethical grey areas

Bonjoy

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#543 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2009, 01:59:14 pm
 Perhaps it is that hard after all then. The gear situation didn't look too bad to me though. Cos of the rise in the ledge you can place high gear before pulling on and would only need to place one more bit on route (whilst stood on the only half decent footholds), from which you might be able to reverse or jump (!) the couple of moves back to the ledge and hence leave in place. Such an amazing line but I've hardly heard of anyone trying it.

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#544 Re: significant repeats
August 12, 2009, 02:01:43 pm
Sounds amazing/awful. Any pics around?

monkey boy

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#545 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2009, 07:55:51 pm
Mina did the sissy today!

Tommy

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#546 Re: significant repeats
August 17, 2009, 11:08:20 pm
Cheers dudes. I think Reeve got a bit carried away with ascents as it's the 3rd ascent. Only The Sheep at Burbage to tick now and I can retire  :)
You ever tried the crack project right of Ramshaw Crack? Looks like THE obvious challenge for a crack fiend to me. The guide suggests  french 8c but it looks a fair bit easier than that to me.

Bonjoy - yeah I have tried it briefly earlier this year. It is indeed pretty flippin' hard! Not quite as good line as I thought and perhaps the climbing is not quite as satisfying, not to mention excrutiatingly painful. It's on the list for this winter...

Bonjoy

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#547 Re: significant repeats
August 18, 2009, 08:10:49 am
How so, is Ramshaw Crack within reach? Does look like some pretty knarly finger jams.

Tommy

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#548 Re: significant repeats
August 18, 2009, 02:20:46 pm
How so, is Ramshaw Crack within reach? Does look like some pretty knarly finger jams.

Yeah ramshaw crack is within reach and usable at the start. It would seem logical to make 2 moves up this and lean into the thin finger crack - still brick hard. If you were to do anything else it would just end up being an eliminate. Essentially a very hard boulder problem on a rope!

SA Chris

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#549 Re: significant repeats
August 18, 2009, 02:22:29 pm
Essentially a very hard boulder problem on a rope!

You say that like it's a bad thing. :)

 

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