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significant repeats (Read 2473262 times)

The Sausage

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#500 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2009, 12:23:59 pm
The point I was trying to get across was the style in which she did the problem. She turned up, worked out her own beta in the blink of an eye, and had it bagged up and was moving on to Lou Ferrino within half an hour. Very impressive indeed.

BenF

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#501 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2009, 01:15:45 pm
The point I was trying to get across was the style in which she did the problem. She turned up, worked out her own beta in the blink of an eye, and had it bagged up and was moving on to Lou Ferrino within half an hour. Very impressive indeed.

Yeah, that came across - and I agree that her approach and style is excellent, very mature indeed.  I think we in Liverpool are all just so impressed by Shauna that we end up singing her praises at any opportunity. 

Monolith

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#502 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2009, 06:09:22 pm
Stubbs, I'm just voicing personal frustration. Ignore me. Shauna will go as we all know very very far. For years she was always saying how she was desperate to get outside but had to stick to her training programme. Very disciplined and from a young age, it's great that she'll be a role model to other young female aspirants. Keep beasting beast!

Nike Air

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#503 Re: significant repeats
July 15, 2009, 09:53:34 pm
Gaz Parry repeated the 8c-True north at Kilnsey on Tuesday!!

Good holiday tick :thumbsup:

uptown

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#504 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2009, 09:14:00 pm
Gaz Parry repeated the 8c-True north at Kilnsey on Tuesday!!

Good holiday tick :thumbsup:

Well done Gaz, I saw him breezing up the lower section at the end of last week - he didn't have much of a rest on the weekend either did he! Pats on the back for 8c Brits - or should that be ex-pats?  ;)

Adam Lincoln

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#505 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2009, 09:15:44 pm
or should that be ex-pats?  ;)

He spends more time in the Uk than Spain!  ;)

Gareth Parry

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#506 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 01:10:01 am
Was at Kilnsey yesterday, pretty wet now and TN is soaked. Thank f**k i did it before it rained this year. Sooty got it on film so might have something on my blog soon. There is a vid of The Spider on there at the moment. Did a fun link yesterday there, 50 for 5 into the top of the Ashes, mega combo and a great pump. About 8a. Off back now thank god...the weather has got the better of me. got a new (blonde) drill to test and a cave to play in.

Adam Lincoln

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#507 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 08:29:33 am
Did a fun link yesterday there, 50 for 5 into the top of the Ashes, mega combo and a great pump.

Dal did this a few weeks back. She also did Sticky Wicket into The ashes too.

(Nice one on TN by the way)

andy_e

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#508 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 11:07:23 am
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

Jaspersharpe

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#509 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 11:19:41 am
Funny to think of why Wiegand called it that now that The Ashes is not such a synonym for Pom bashing. Fucking funny actually and a reminder that route names last forever.

Probes

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#510 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 12:11:50 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle, i didnt see him do it but he appeared at the other end of the crag after looking mildly pleased.

Andy F

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#511 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 12:27:54 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

It is, and Pete did flash it, after crushing Grooved Arete second go.

Adam Lincoln

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#512 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 12:48:45 pm
Topical route names! The Ashes looks like an awesome route.

It is, and Pete did flash it, after crushing Grooved Arete second go.

The welsh team has a good day, caff and mule also doing GA.

Marky

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#513 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 04:26:53 pm
Caff also had a good morning at Malham on Sunday when he ticked both Zoolook and Mid Ledge Spread before lunchtime!

Jim

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#514 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2009, 07:17:11 pm
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,

Pete generally makes most things look a doddle, don't delude yourself that its easy

Pantontino

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#515 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2009, 10:47:43 am
Just to clarify, this is what Caff and Pete (Robins) did:

Friday, Malham: The Groove (Caff), Overnite Sensation (Pete)
Sat, Kilnsey: Grooved Arete (Caff and Pete), Ashes (Pete-os), Biological Need (Pete-os), Rubble (Caff-os, Pete-flash)
Sun, Malham: Zoolook (Caff), Mid Ledge Spread (Pete)

Not a bad weekend, eh?

Probes

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#516 Re: significant repeats
July 23, 2009, 11:12:47 am
Apparently Pete Robbins (no relation!) onsighted it last sat, making it look a doddle,

Pete generally makes most things look a doddle, don't delude yourself that its easy

to look is not to be.

PATRuL

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#517 Re: significant repeats
August 01, 2009, 09:49:22 am
Hello
I once belayed a chap on True NOrth

monkey boy

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#518 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2009, 10:46:15 pm
Mina did atomic playboy at buthiers today!!



saltbeef

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#519 Re: significant repeats
August 02, 2009, 11:52:06 pm
yay! was raining this morn but temperatures were a bit more sane! good effort!

Johnny Brown

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#520 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 09:05:33 am
http://bleau.info/y/697.html

Wow. 8a+ in font, you can retire off the back of that.

First british ascent? Any other british females done an 8 at all in the forest?

Sloper

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#521 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 09:20:18 am
That's very seriously impressive and I'm really not trying to dminish the effort I'm just wondering whether the nonsense about traverse grades being 'soft' in Font is now historical anomoly.

I'm sure I remember being told 'if you can do a 7a up problem you can do an 8a traverse'.  Personally I think that's load of rubbish and just a crap effort at a sandbagging, thoughts random and rambling or otherwise?

nik at work

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#522 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 09:27:57 am
On her 8a card it is down as Atomic Playboy Raccourci which gets 7c+. I  don't know which she did, either is very impressive. I get the impression that Raccourci is the more logical start though I've never seen the problem in the flesh, essentially I know nothing but whatever she's done nice effort.

Sloper from what I recall in Font traverses are graded two grades above up problems. I.e. a 7c traverse would roughly correlate with a 7b up problem. In my experience this is quite an inconsistent rule, I dunno why they do it like this, seems a bit silly to me. I prefer the Peak bouldering guide approach where traverse and up grades are equivalent.

Anyway bon effort.

ferret

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#523 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 10:19:10 am
Quote
On her 8a card it is down as Atomic Playboy Raccourci which gets 7c+.

yeah this gets 7c+ on the website, i was never sure if this was a trav grade or a bloc grade, wud get 7c+ in the peak imo.
the 8a+ version is ridiculous startin on the top of the boulder (cliffband) and climbing down and across through not great quality rock. very long but the raccourci bit is the meat and potatoes and the obvious start.
best trav in font?

good effort

reeve

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#524 Re: significant repeats
August 03, 2009, 03:08:20 pm
I hope this isn't too much of a maverick report for a bouldering forum, but I'm sure some people will be interested. Tom Randall got the first repeat of Green Spit in Orco last week, touted as one of the worlds hardest cracks, at around F8b+.
Congrats Tom, some true crack-fanaticism! 

Photo of it: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=67451

 

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