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significant repeats (Read 2439788 times)

dobbin

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#475 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2009, 01:50:55 pm
...wasn't/isn't Nick good?

Yes. Blummin captain talent himself - we went to buoux last year and whilst I know he has been many times before and knows it well an so on, it was quite dismaying the speed and precision with which he climbs.

Anyway, well done Drew! which is actually what we are on about.

Fiend

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#476 Re: significant repeats
June 20, 2009, 10:59:01 pm
Something about some bloke from Pickering doing something somewhere in Yorkshire which was last done by some strong Scot about a decade ago?

This isn't UKC. Whats with all the cloak and dagger bollox?

Pot, KETTLE!!!

hairich

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#477 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2009, 07:12:51 pm
dom wragg repeated kudos today at rubicon.bloody good effort when you consider we were there with nacho who cant do it.

oh ben moon repeated it too but i think he may have done it before

Paul B

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#478 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2009, 07:22:49 pm
nice once again.

dave

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#479 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2009, 09:20:13 pm
dom wragg repeated kudos today at rubicon

i don'tget it, everyone's done kudos. do you mean something else?

Paul B

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#480 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2009, 09:32:26 pm
he's not very old dave

account_inactive

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#481 Re: significant repeats
June 21, 2009, 11:32:12 pm
And Kudos (easy) is really hard

Adam Lincoln

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#482 Re: significant repeats
July 01, 2009, 09:19:50 pm
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

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#483 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 07:38:22 am
Has 2nd female ascent of rockatrocity not been mentioned yet. Young lass (Shawna?), first visit to the cave (I think), spent about 15 minutes sorting out the moves, fell off the final go-again move to the slot on her first go, then pissed it next go. No whooping, no fuss - all very cool-ly done.

Was warm as well.

Andy F

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#484 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 08:10:40 am
It's Shauna Coxsey. Expect big things of this lass in the future, watch this space.

Andy F

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#485 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 08:12:30 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Effort. Well done Naomi. Proper finish (i.e. clipping the belay from the jug) or jump finish?

Adam Lincoln

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#486 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 08:54:38 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Effort. Well done Naomi. Proper finish (i.e. clipping the belay from the jug) or jump finish?

She did the harder version with the jump finish. The same as on the first ascent.

monkey boy

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#487 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 09:38:38 am
Has 2nd female ascent of rockatrocity not been mentioned yet. Young lass (Shawna?), first visit to the cave (I think), spent about 15 minutes sorting out the moves, fell off the final go-again move to the slot on her first go, then pissed it next go. No whooping, no fuss - all very cool-ly done.

Was warm as well.

Was 3rd ascent after that lady who did it a few years ago and mina. Effort to Shauna!!

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#488 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 09:52:55 am
Not seen mentioned anywhere, but an Aussie lass did Jerry's Roof in the Pass (wot I heard). 2nd female ascent? Don't know her name but apparently she's done Serpentine and we watched her stroll up Bloody Sunday in the Leap "learning to trad climb".

Johnny Brown

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#489 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:09:56 am
Learning my arse, went to Cratcliffe with her a few weeks ago and she strolled up everything there too. Andrea, dunno surname.


Richie Crouch

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#490 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:11:45 am
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:

Probes

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#491 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:18:09 am
Naomi Buys has joined the 8a club by doing Dead Calm at Kilnsey today. Cack conditions too.

Good Skills! Well done.

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#492 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:20:52 am
Andrea Hah is her name.


Andy F

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#493 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:22:35 am
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:

'Bout time she got on something hard though  ;)

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#494 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 10:29:18 am
Good work to all recent significant repeaters.  :bow:

Learning my arse, went to Cratcliffe with her a few weeks ago and she strolled up everything there too. Andrea, dunno surname.



Why hasn't this been posted to DFBWGC III  :shrug: :spank:  Sorted now, but if you've any more pics lurking in the vaults get 'em up JB.


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#495 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 01:36:09 pm
Ola,

Malc Smith repeated Mr Tickle 8a the other day at Dumbarton rock. Apparently he reckons that the grade is about right.

This info is all from Will who put up the problem very recently but he can't post cause he's away getting smashed in Wales for a week. He's pretty chuffed that malc repeated his problem and wanted the world to know asap.

There you go Will....the world now knows.

J

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#496 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 06:50:07 pm
Nice one Shauna, that is mightily impressive, Millso will be amused!  :thumbsup:

The girl's a mutant!

I wish I could agree that RA was a 'hard' problem Andy, but it really isn't. It just has an ending move that hates you. In context of Shauna's age etc, it is of course hard and I don't mean in any way to belittle what is a boomtown effort. She's certainly racking up a beer tab with all these sends if she's to be duly rewarded!

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#497 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 08:39:09 pm
RA is a hard problem. The last move of RA is hard because the rest of the problem makes you fucked by the time you get there! Doing RA in a session is super imprrssive IMO, I bet other people who have done this will have been climbing in the 8's.  Inspiring stuff!

Richie Crouch

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#498 Re: significant repeats
July 02, 2009, 09:28:51 pm
After Tuesday's shenanigans I have convinced myself that Parisella's Original is a lot harder than RA... as I failed on it yet could wink and french blow to Millso before casually matching on the latter  ;)

BenF

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#499 Re: significant repeats
July 03, 2009, 12:13:07 pm
The girl's a mutant!

Shauna is truly brilliant, a proper all round climber (in terms of her techniques and skills on rock/plastic rather than her prowess on ice, alpine peaks, sport, trad etc).  She will go very far if she keeps up this progress and takes care not to get injured again.  Doing RA quickly like this is impressive but she's capable of much more.  It's great to see her getting out and climbing on rock rather than simply being the most incredible indoor climber. 

However if you are feeling humbled by her ability Tom, wait till I get her to Pex again.  Then we'll cut her back down to size.   ;)

 

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