UKB power club week 265 9th March - 15th March 2015

[iain]

STG: Chulilla at Easter, 2 weeks of training and a week taper left.
MTG: Hasse Brandler in late summer/autumn and resume my Shark-lite Infinite Gravity project addiction.

M: Rest
T: The Tor for a lovely afternoon/evening session, couple of others there. Conditions were mostly ok so reacquainted myself with Powerband. Best go was start to cross, fall off, get straight back on and fall off pocket move. That was my best effort from 10 months ago which was heartening. Only managed the pocket move once but I'm fine with that as I haven't been bouldering much recently. Finished with some ancap laps on THFML as the sun went down and the owls t'wooed at each other.
W: Family arrive for visit
T: Sneak out for a shortish session at the Foundry. Tried getting on some harder things aiming for some redpoint practice and sustained PE but despite the routes I was trying being only a grade harder than I'd previously flashed or done second go I kept finding bouldery crux moves I could barely do in isolation. Finished the session hardly having topped out and not quite sure of what kind of workout I'd had. Disappointing.
F: Family
S: Family and nephew herding for the afternoon. Unfortunately this nephew doesn't like being picked up so no opportunity for nephew assisted weights/workout.
S: AW for a similar disappointing session to Thursday.

Not much volume this week due to family visit. Since I was getting a little bored of endless laps on the same routes I thought I'd try something different with the time I did have but this just didn't work and so this week felt a bit wasted.
Aim for this week is much more volume but using bouldering and the circuit boards to do something more structured and controllable.

@Fried :blink: It's healing ok?

Utterly fucked-off about back going into spasm,

That's rubbish Pete, finger's crossed it just needs some tlc ...

 

[r-man]

Fried. Wince. Ouch!

Short return this week - only got out on thurs (Brownstones) repeated 7A, split two tips on the two problems I wanted to try and did a Slopey fun 7A+ eliminate when I thought all was lost from my session. Away now on fieldwork until Sat so nothing more...

What were the problems? I had a few trips to Brownstones last year and enjoyed it - I need some encouragement to return (beyond the prospect of falling off Hank's Wall repeatedly). Any recommendations?

Brownstones is great, a really friendly crag. I'll leave it to tomtom to recommend his favourite problems, however if you like the style at Brownstones and are climbing in the 7's, there are more (and I think better) problems at those grades in other quarries. A tour of Wiltons 2,3 and 4 would make for a good day. Ousel's Nest is a good shady spot in the summer. Stronstrey, Stanworth and Healey Nab are all worth a visit too.

 

[petejh]

Utterly fucked-off about back going into spasm,

That's rubbish Pete, finger's crossed it just needs some tlc ...

Chiro said that it's a minor strain of the facet joint capsule, which set off the protective muscle spasm. He thinks it's not a big deal at all compared to the injury I had previously - and no reason to alter my training plan. Am actually going to increase the training load by upping the intensity of posterior chain strength exercises - deadlift, squat and back extensions with very light weight, for the first time in a long time.

 

[a dense loner]

Let me see if I read that correctly Pete. You've had a back spasm recently that was bad enough to go and see a chiro and you're going to start doing a load of dead lifts, squats, and back extensions?
opcorn:

 

[fried]

@Fried :blink: It's healing ok?

It's fine, It didn't even hurt until 2 days after. By complete coincidence I met a client last week who did almost the same thing, he needed 2 stitches and spent most of the Saturday in A and E. I must've got lucky I guess.

 

[Sasquatch]

STG: Maintain Psych, and drop weight. Either local boulder or route projects depending on weather.
MTG: Bolt new route projects, have a couple of promising walls to recon. 1-4-7 & 1-arm pullup
LTG: To Bolt....

M- Short 20min bike cardio
T-Campus, Wts - Much better Campus session. Took a while to get fully warmed up, but managed 1-4-6 and 1-3.5-6, whish was a big step up from last week. 1-arm Pullups session was fantatstic. Managed 3x3 at -34lbs, which was about 15lbs better than last week.
W-Rest
T-Campus - Pretty sore, and took a while to warm p. Managed 1-4-6, 1-3.5-6 and 1-3-6. Was really psyched as this is as good as I managed my last set in October whe I was 10-12 lbs lighter.
F-Rest - Checked out new brewery opening with friends, meant a bit off the diet....
S-Max Boulder - Long boulder session in the gym. Did new v9's and worked a v11, which felt better and better and was somewhat anti style. Was totally thrashed by the end of the day.
S-Long Backcountry Day :2thumbsup:

The good - Psyche is still high, dropped a couple of pounds, finished my campus cycle on a great high note matched my personal best so if I can drop the 10 lbs, I'll be stronger than I was.

The bad. Managed to get some tennis elbow for the first time in my life. Musta been too much :wank: . So now I'm on a rehab schedule for that. Weather forecast looks shit for the next week or more for climbing, and it's supposed to dump a shit load of snow which may push back the real season opening.

Overall, life is calming down for a moment, and I'm feeling pretty good.

 

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime. 5th day on and I was rubbish. Neil (correctly) told me I shouldn't be there. Pilates in the evening with Neil who liked it because the instructor said he had a strong back
T Some core stuff at the gym including some deadlifts.
W
T Foundry where for once I wasn't completely shit. I even did some problems
F Early morning core sess at the gym
S Did nearly all of one of the sprint workouts from T Nation. Ached in my arms shoulders, hips and feet. Loads more fun than running for longer
S Quick dash to Secret Garden. Connies felt good as I was warming up but my skin was sliding on the holds on LHM for some reason. Tore a bit on the second go so had to leave it.


Not much in the way of East European based fitness regimes last week - hope to remedy that this week.

 

[iain]

It's fine, It didn't even hurt until 2 days after. By complete coincidence I met a client last week who did almost the same thing, he needed 2 stitches and spent most of the Saturday in A and E. I must've got lucky I guess.

Good to hear

 

[petejh]

Let me see if I read that correctly Pete. You've had a back spasm recently that was bad enough to go and see a chiro and you're going to start doing a load of dead lifts, squats, and back extensions?
opcorn:

I'm tempted to punter you for being fucking facetious Dense! You don't know the half of it. Over the last ten years I've had two herniated discs both of which caused long periods of terrible sciatica; I also had modic changes in the vertabrae end plates adjacent the herniated discs; then I grew a bone spur on the vertebrae which ended up damaging the nerve where it exits the foramen. The disc problems and bone spur were bad enough to put me out of action for long periods over the last 10 years. Things got bad enough to require surgery in 2013 when I lost all ability to lift my big toe due to nerve damage from the bone spur. I had surgery which removed the bone spur and shaved the large disc bulge that was compressing the nerve. I've been totally pain free since then, for pretty much the first time in ten years.
In the time since the op I've been gradually ramping up the rehab exercises, I've been diligent and have spent months walking miles up and down in a pool, progressed to stability and core strengthening exercises and kept these up, progressed to TRX, whilst starting to climb more.
Now, I've just had a minor facet joint sprain - minor that is in context of my previous issues. To someone who's never experienced much back trouble, a facet joint sprain causing back spasm might seem a big deal, and it is very disabling at the time. But in the big picture provided the sprain heals well - which they quickly do due to lots of nutrient supply unlike discs - then it's not a major game-changer for anyone who gets one. It's just another joint that suffers wear and tear. (there are lots of reasons why it's a red flag to be taken notice of)

Yes, I'm going to start deadlifting, squatting and back extensions for the first time in the last 10 years, because my gut feeling, backed up by anecdotal evidence and other people's similar experiences following similar injury, is that careful progressive loading is a better approach to healing weakened structures in the body and building up the resilience needed for an active life. I'm not going to be starting tomorrow - there's a healing process first. Science tells me to avoid anything that overloads the spine and instead spend the rest of my life on gardening leave avoiding risk.
There's a bigger picture behind my thought process which you don't see, and it's to do with what rehab has been done up to now and where you currently sit in a cycle: stability-strength-power. I know where I sit in the bigger picture. The physio, trainer and chiro all agree with the plan.

This was I believe the mistake I made ten years ago - not doing any weighted back rehab due to listening to conservative orthopedic surgeons who's advice boiled down to 'don't do anything that risks overloading the spine'.
My squat, deadlift etc. will be under the eye of a good coach who I trust and who knows my history, and there won't be much - if any - weight involved to start with. Yes I know the risks involved, and how important perfect form is. I'm not going into anything unaware. Any bad outcome has been considered and accepted as worth the risk/reward. I'm not aspiring to be 'a lifter' of anything remotely heavy, this is purely a posterior chain strengthening/endurance with the aim being to build resilience. No I don't require your advice on the matter Dense, but thanks for taking notice

Move on this isn't the pete thread.

 

[a dense loner]

If it's not the Pete thread why did you find it necessary to write a page of info about your rehab?
I read back injury then 3 strenuous back exercises so I reply on that not on the 10 yr background I don't know. In the same way that if a man gets caught fucking a goat I think he fancies goats as opposed to not knowing his past history of getting let down by women

 

[petejh]

I'm sorry you experience getting let down by women but that's still not an excuse. You can get all sorts of diseases.

 

[french erick]

STG- fully rehab right hand to levels of not worrying about it.
MTG- O/S plenty E4s
LTG- decent O/S attempt at Astroman + Romantic warrior and regularly O/S VIIIs and some choice E5s

Monday and Tuesdayush-up and abbs small workouts x2.
Tuesday and Thursday: Climbed on my newly modified wall (changes in cracks ...meant no climbing last week) 2x 1 hours sesh
Wednesday: Climbed at wall (inverness) for 3 hours mix of routes and bouldering.
Saturday: Despite suffering from the lurgy decided to make the best of blazing sunshine in Highland so visited Ruthven boulder, dispatching lots of problems to 6b 1st go. And surprisingly got shown the Dude for the 1st time and ticking it on my 3rd try! A few attempts at the big lebowski (one of which quite high).
Sunday: a glorious afternoon at Moy (still nursing that lurgy) and nearly ticked a big 7a stamina fest on my 2nd attempt on the big flat wall.

Don't you like when your family is away!
The only way I'll tick my LTG is by getting rid of all 3 other residents in my household :devangel:

 

[tomtom]

Fried. Wince. Ouch!

Short return this week - only got out on thurs (Brownstones) repeated 7A, split two tips on the two problems I wanted to try and did a Slopey fun 7A+ eliminate when I thought all was lost from my session. Away now on fieldwork until Sat so nothing more...

What were the problems? I had a few trips to Brownstones last year and enjoyed it - I need some encouragement to return (beyond the prospect of falling off Hank's Wall repeatedly). Any recommendations?

Groundhog, dezertion and Hanks are my splitter problems

Groundhog is a good feeling problem - and a proper line (sorry quarried eliminate fans ). dezertion feels like a horrible lunge but I need to do it now.. Hanks is good - and I dropped the final move last time.. Right hand hank feels good too... I've forgotten the 7A+ I did - sorry not near my guidebook this week.

I'm kinda fond of the place now. Though I find it hard to warm up as all the easier probs feel polished and horrible!

 

[andi_e]

Laps on the various Nexus wall problems are good for warming up.

 

[36chambers]

STG:
- 7C
- Stu's Roof
- 7B in font
MTG: lots of 7C/7C+
LTG: 8B

Terrible week for climbing, since I did nothing. Stupid deadlines :ras:
But I'm going on a two week holiday next week (1 week in font, 1 week snowboarding), so I shouldn't complain too much.

M: work
T: work
W: work
T: work & ice therapy
F: work & yoga ball week 9 workout
S: work (home alone, whilst my gf & friends went to St Bees on a trip that I set up :wall
S: work (everyone still at St Bees)

In hindsight maybe some form of exercise/antagonistic training might have been wise/reduced stress.

I just need to hold out for 4 more days and then Font!

On the plus side, my fingertips have never looked so good.

 

[andi_e]

Ah, yes, heard about this trip from multiple sources. St. Bees is not a suitable venue for large groups. There's limited parking, for a start. The land is owned by the RSPB and is an important breeding site for many species of sea bird, especially important at this time of year. The rock is quite fragile too, and the Apiary Wall area in particular is prone to the problems associated with heavy traffic due to its concentration of easier classics. I'd suggest the area was avoided by large groups in future please!

 

[moose]

Groundhog, dezertion and Hanks are my splitter problems
Groundhog is a good feeling problem - and a proper line (sorry quarried eliminate fans ). dezertion feels like a horrible lunge but I need to do it now.. Hanks is good - and I dropped the final move last time.. Right hand hank feels good too... I've forgotten the 7A+ I did - sorry not near my guidebook this week.
I'm kinda fond of the place now. Though I find it hard to warm up as all the easier probs feel polished and horrible!

I've done Groundhog - agree it's a striking line (especially in that setting). That said, I love a meaningless eliminate - I hanker after a return to work on a few more of the Pigswill variants (did the SS and "no tricks" last time). I had a session on Hank's where I thought I had it in the bag, then it rained. I returned the next week and got completely shut-down; could barely pull-on! Funny place - very hard to see the holds and it seems very conditions dependent.

I really must give Ousels Nest and the Wiltons a go too. They aren't much further from my house (Ilkley) and Wilton 1 especially looks to have a lot to go at. Still, it's a bit of a trip given the crap weather lately - hopefully for my sanity (getting cabin-fever from too much time at the Depot) they have enough quick drying / perma-dry stuff to make a speculative trip worth it.

 

[r-man]

For crap weather, Brownstones is always fast drying. Ousel's is best left till it dries out for the summer, but then it stays dry till winter. The Square at Wilton 3 is fast-drying, as is Purple Feel in Wilton 2. Snakey B wall in Wilton 1 is pretty much perma dry.

If you are on facebook, Lancashire Bouldering Guidebook (me) and Lancashire Rock Revival (group) are both good places to ask about conditions/see what others have been up to.

 

[tomtom]

Yup, Brownstones is my Almscliff of Lancashire in terms of fast-dryingness..

That's where the comparison ends

 

[gme]

Mon- rest. Was supposed to climb PM but felt really tired so ended up chilling with the family.
Tues- Moonboard session. OK but slightly down on where i was a week ago. Did a 7B in two overlapping sections though so improvement still
Wed - London with work. Eating with Falling down PM but no booze as driving
Thurs-Sunday- Skiing for 1st time in 30 years. Chamonix.

As predicted it was a poor week for climbing with only one session. Skiing was fun and did 5-6 hours every day however as it was a work trip with clients it also meant eating out in very nice restaurants every lunch and evening and drinking ridiculous amounts of booze to negate any possible positive effects of the exercise. This week does not look much better with a conference to go to and black tie do at the weekend.

Skiing was fun but was starting to get a bit boring by the end. Very much a sport for people who dont like to have to put any effort into it. Pay loads of money - Sit in a chair- slide down a hill - repeat. I can see why its popular with the masses.