Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,854
It's all warming up for the Sharkathon...
Next week STG: Forgot - yes, don't know what it was but it was actually an okay week!.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - lol nowhere near. keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - pretty decent, people chatted with on Xmas Day and all, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - yes but so weak, elbow rehab x 2 - kinda but extra icing and stuff too, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - twice.
M - Active rest: Traditional Christmas Cripplerun(tm). A couple of miles with a few walking sections. My first run since tweaking my gracillis, which itself felt absolutely fine. Heart and lungs felt like I was birthing a chestburster, legs felt like lead, and left leg clot site was aching from 1/4 of the way in. Inserted 6 brussel sprouts up my bunghole to aid recovery.
T - DOMS so acute I could barely get down the stairs, and lungs still aching for most of the day. Indoor bouldering @ VauxWest. 10 x V1-3, 12 x V2-4, 3 x V4-6 (1 flash, 2 x 3rd go). Skipped the V3-5s as I didn't like the holds on those. Tried another 7 V 4-6s with no chance of success. A world away from Onyx and not really able to adjust to #lndnclmbng where the harder mid-range stuff is clearly set both by and for crossfit yoga freak gym bunnies in skin-tight Under Armour who Love The New Fitness Trend Of Indoor Rock Climbing and get up everything by flamboyant kipping or prolapse-inducing posturing right down to the technical dunce gym bros who couldn't do the only easy move on the hardest V2-4 because it actually involved balance and technique but were having fun fist-bumping their way through sets of muscle-ups to finish etc etc basically fuck off. A fair amount of bench and shoulder press (extremely weak), and some elbow rehab. Stretching session. Moral fortitude building by having a coffee with duncan.
W - Rest. DOMS in legs. Forearms achey from #lndnclmbng. Shoulders achey and tight from pushing. Tennis elbow quite okay (had iced well on Tue evening)
T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot Pudsey. 6 Blues V1-3, 6 Black V2-4, 10 Red V3-5 (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go), 8 Purples V5-7 (7 flash, 1 x 3rd go). Tried 6 more Purples that I couldn't do in 3 goes each, close on a couple. The set looked a bit easier than they were and I struggled with being WEAK on any steep cranking, but did okay. Had indigestion the night before and queasy all day. JulieM brought me pickled sprouts which will obviously help. TE sore after, similar to after Onyx, but was trying hard.
F - Active rest @ Birchens Edge. A few easy warm-ups, a few moves on middling stuff, and getting burnt off by an unholy alliance of Farnell and Fatneck, henceforth known as Fartneck. TE a bit sore but not too bad given yesterday's session and the bleak conditions.
S - Indoor bouldering @ Boardroom. 10 x "D" (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go) - whatever the gangrenous bollocks "D" is supposed to be, 10 x "E" (8 flash, 2 x 2nd go) - whatever the chargrilled cockscraping "E" is supposed to be, 1 x "F" (flash, and attempted 4 more), whatever the utter festering shitwank "F" is supposed to be. Session was, errr, ummm, session was....mmmm I HAVE NO FUCKING IDEA BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE STUPIDEST GRADING SYSTEM IN THE HISTORY OF STUPID GRADING SYSTEMS. I could have been doing terribly scraping up V2s or I could have been doing great cruising V6s but I can't tell because they're still sticking with the gobbledegook letter-vomit non-grading non-system in defiance of any common sense nor functionality. I definitely did some problems, I'm pretty sure I pulled on holds, and I recall that my tennis elbow was a bit sore but not too sore. Oh and I did some more left leg heelhooks and didn't aggravate my gracillis.
S - Gym. Bench (very weak), deadlift (extremely weak), OH press (astonishingly weak, couldn't even get to a prior warm-up). Dire all round. Lots of knee rehab that was much improved and felt more like knee restrengthening. Stretching session.
Okay week with a good level of volume and a bit of supplementary training. Onyx on Sunday before going down to #lndn had put me in a good mood to put up with the god-awful place and I capitalised (...) on that with a run and more wall sessions. TE is feeling generally a bit sore BUT is in line with the Biscuit Principle "If an injury is coping with a higher workload with the same amount of pain, it's progressing". Still need to take care tho. Planning 2 days off the wall in a row. Knee has progressed well, proven by heel-hook tolerance on Sat and better hamstring curls on Sun.
Next week STG: Sharkathon.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
Next week STG: Forgot - yes, don't know what it was but it was actually an okay week!.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad - lol nowhere near. keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - pretty decent, people chatted with on Xmas Day and all, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a, gym x 1 - yes but so weak, elbow rehab x 2 - kinda but extra icing and stuff too, shoulder rehab x 2 - no, stretching x 3 - twice.
M - Active rest: Traditional Christmas Cripplerun(tm). A couple of miles with a few walking sections. My first run since tweaking my gracillis, which itself felt absolutely fine. Heart and lungs felt like I was birthing a chestburster, legs felt like lead, and left leg clot site was aching from 1/4 of the way in. Inserted 6 brussel sprouts up my bunghole to aid recovery.
T - DOMS so acute I could barely get down the stairs, and lungs still aching for most of the day. Indoor bouldering @ VauxWest. 10 x V1-3, 12 x V2-4, 3 x V4-6 (1 flash, 2 x 3rd go). Skipped the V3-5s as I didn't like the holds on those. Tried another 7 V 4-6s with no chance of success. A world away from Onyx and not really able to adjust to #lndnclmbng where the harder mid-range stuff is clearly set both by and for crossfit yoga freak gym bunnies in skin-tight Under Armour who Love The New Fitness Trend Of Indoor Rock Climbing and get up everything by flamboyant kipping or prolapse-inducing posturing right down to the technical dunce gym bros who couldn't do the only easy move on the hardest V2-4 because it actually involved balance and technique but were having fun fist-bumping their way through sets of muscle-ups to finish etc etc basically fuck off. A fair amount of bench and shoulder press (extremely weak), and some elbow rehab. Stretching session. Moral fortitude building by having a coffee with duncan.
W - Rest. DOMS in legs. Forearms achey from #lndnclmbng. Shoulders achey and tight from pushing. Tennis elbow quite okay (had iced well on Tue evening)
T - Indoor bouldering @ Depot Pudsey. 6 Blues V1-3, 6 Black V2-4, 10 Red V3-5 (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go), 8 Purples V5-7 (7 flash, 1 x 3rd go). Tried 6 more Purples that I couldn't do in 3 goes each, close on a couple. The set looked a bit easier than they were and I struggled with being WEAK on any steep cranking, but did okay. Had indigestion the night before and queasy all day. JulieM brought me pickled sprouts which will obviously help. TE sore after, similar to after Onyx, but was trying hard.
F - Active rest @ Birchens Edge. A few easy warm-ups, a few moves on middling stuff, and getting burnt off by an unholy alliance of Farnell and Fatneck, henceforth known as Fartneck. TE a bit sore but not too bad given yesterday's session and the bleak conditions.
S - Indoor bouldering @ Boardroom. 10 x "D" (9 flash, 1 x 2nd go) - whatever the gangrenous bollocks "D" is supposed to be, 10 x "E" (8 flash, 2 x 2nd go) - whatever the chargrilled cockscraping "E" is supposed to be, 1 x "F" (flash, and attempted 4 more), whatever the utter festering shitwank "F" is supposed to be. Session was, errr, ummm, session was....mmmm I HAVE NO FUCKING IDEA BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE STUPIDEST GRADING SYSTEM IN THE HISTORY OF STUPID GRADING SYSTEMS. I could have been doing terribly scraping up V2s or I could have been doing great cruising V6s but I can't tell because they're still sticking with the gobbledegook letter-vomit non-grading non-system in defiance of any common sense nor functionality. I definitely did some problems, I'm pretty sure I pulled on holds, and I recall that my tennis elbow was a bit sore but not too sore. Oh and I did some more left leg heelhooks and didn't aggravate my gracillis.
S - Gym. Bench (very weak), deadlift (extremely weak), OH press (astonishingly weak, couldn't even get to a prior warm-up). Dire all round. Lots of knee rehab that was much improved and felt more like knee restrengthening. Stretching session.
Okay week with a good level of volume and a bit of supplementary training. Onyx on Sunday before going down to #lndn had put me in a good mood to put up with the god-awful place and I capitalised (...) on that with a run and more wall sessions. TE is feeling generally a bit sore BUT is in line with the Biscuit Principle "If an injury is coping with a higher workload with the same amount of pain, it's progressing". Still need to take care tho. Planning 2 days off the wall in a row. Knee has progressed well, proven by heel-hook tolerance on Sat and better hamstring curls on Sun.
Next week STG: Sharkathon.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope, or above a pad, keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners, falling practise if I do routes indoors or out, gym x 1, elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.
unk: :boxing:
