Wind Power Club 782 2nd Dec - 8th Dec 2024

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep up with general conditioning - mostly okay, decent indoor bouldering. Don't go too far if fatigued - mostly okay, eased off a bit. More mobility - nope, not enough. Less digging - mostly yes.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nope. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - a bit slack but had some contact and touched base a bit. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - kinda - shoulders bad but not my fault, (gym x 1) - yes, elbow rehab x 2 - x 2, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 3, stretching x 3 - x2 and should be more.


M - Indoor bouldering @ Blochaus. 8 x V2-4, 6 x V3-5 (5 flash, 1 x 2nd go silly mistake), 4 x V4-6 (2 flash, 2 x 2nd go silly mistakes, plus attempted 1 that was a one move V5-7 board-style pull off the floor), 2 x V5-7 (1 flash, 1 worked, plus attempted two more). Was unsure / open-minded about how body would feel after ROS on Sunday, so warmed up steadily and paced myself well, and it was fine. Quite good fun overall. Would have tried more new V5-7s but they were all in a corridor bit full of 20-something BROS BROing away about their SICK BRO SENDZ and the one problem I put some effort into there I tore open an existing cut on a finger on a sharp hold and had a strop and threw two brushes and my chalk bottle halfway down the wall.

T - Gym. Misc WeakWeights(tm). Back to being the usual extra-weak due to fatigue from Sat/Sun/Mon, but that was to be expected and was okay. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Stretching session.

W - Active semi-rest. 2 hours mostly light scrubbing and scraping. Didn't get too fatigued. GE sore in morning but better after. Leg DOMS from gym.

T - Rest. 5 mins insertion / 1 min full immersion cold water torture. Forgot medication previous evening, woke several times in the night, slept weird, woke with mild but annoying nerve pain in neck, shoulders, and arms. Eased off a bit but still annoying.

F - Active rest. 1.5 hours misc walking. Still got mild but annoying nerve pain in neck, shoulders and arms. Slightly less but still annoying.

S - Indoor bouldering @ Onyx. 6 x `V2,` 6 x `V3`, 6 x `V4`, 6 x `V5` (flash), 10 x `V6` (5 flash, 3 x 2nd go, 2 x 3rd go), plus attempted 2 x `V7`. Very soft grades as usual but good fun. Elbow a bit sore after but didn't inhibit me climbing and only noticable on a few moves. Neck/shoulder nerve pain had no effect but shoulders tired and tweaky after. Beforehand: Shoulder rehab. Elbow rehab - elbow feeling much worse in general after 2 rest days and noticably more sore doing rehab after rest than after 2 days bouldering a row.

S - Active rest. Shoulder rehab, micro-gym-micro-session, stretching, sauna. Feeling a bit coldy and low energy so took it very gently. Elbow and shoulders both better in morning and stayed that way.


Mixed week. Doing okay indoor bouldering on Mon after the same on Sun was good. Weird sleep and weird, if minor, neck etc issues were not good. Seems to have settled a bit.


Next week STG: Try to climb stuff. Look after self.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[Duma]

Thanks Fiend, sounds like you're getting a bit done indoors at least.

OK week, feeling a bit jaded after a month outdoors unsurprisingly, but at least there's plenty of new stuff to try at the wall.

M - eve, UCR to meet mates but didn't pull on. Chatting at the pub instead.
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. 90% reset since I was last here. 7 whites (7 flash), 1 black (1 flash), 2 blues (both quick). Also attempts on 1 blue, 2 blacks, and 2 whites.
W - 12hr shift
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. Still loads I've not tried. 4 whites (2 flash, 1 2nd go, 1 took a bit of working out), 4 blacks (3 flash, 1 2nd go), 1 blue (flash). Also attempts on 3 blues and 1 black.
F - eve, TCA, 90 min. Feeling yesterday so just tried the rest of the whites. 11 whites (4 flash, 1 repeat, 6 quick). Also attempts on 3 whites.
S -
S -

72 kg.

 

[Dolly]

M shed. Rather than trying to tick projects I tried to do single moves that were as hard as I could do. Felt great and nails. Obvs battered. Baked gnocchi with sprouts and cavolo Nero and leeks. Roux sauce with loads of scamorza affumicata
T Golf. I beat my son for probably the third time ever although I know it’s not all about that. His 25th birthday. Proper Sheffield fish cake with peas
W Curbar. Met Lagers and Plattsy. Started drizzling when I arrived but found 2sq m of dry rock to mess about on
T
F Higgar. Could hardly do first move on shame on Kin bollox
S a day of watching football. Watched youngest get POTM against some team called Sheffield *nite* where they won 9 0 Kin great. Hillsboro later for a shit performance. Boss did chilli panko breadcrumbs prawns later which were ace
S beastmaker. Doing extra work on pulling up on slopes

 

[duncan]

Thanks Fiend, sounds like a decent week from a training perspective.

M - Shoulder rehab.//conditioning: handstands, side-planks, IsYsTs

T - Elbow rehab.: one arm pull-downs. Hip flexibility. Communal front door lock broke, I couldn't get out of the house and neighbours couldn't get in. Time and cost to get this fixed.

W - Hip flexibility.

T - Finger lifts, left hand only but PB (45kg x 5 seconds) with this. 4 years ago my max. was 35kg so a steady improvement. This will help in the long term although I feel miles off pulling down hard on anything right now. Hip flexibility.

F - Elbow rehab.: one arm pulls. Walked 10km.

S - A packed Westway. Good social scene, plotted future adventures, elbow felt rubbish after two 4cs. Fingerboard lifts, left hand: 2, 3, 4 fingers, varied grips, up to 36kg. Hip flexibility.

S - Walked 10km. Hip flexibility. Shoulder conditioning.

No concerts this week, the schedule has all gone a bit Christmassy. Down to Weston again this week for a bit of parental care but probably won't be climbing. Two weeks before Jaén and elbow seems to be deteriorating which is not ideal!

 

[TdG]

Hey Duncan, don’t know if it helps but here are a few things I was doing that delayed my elbow recovery and some things that helped:

– Too much volume in initial phase of rehab: I was doing high intensity lock-offs five days a week which made things worse. Dialed it back to two days activity before starting to see improvements.
– Underestimating warm-up required: I now usually spend 30–45 mins progressively loading the elbow before climbing or doing the lock-offs. It’s deathly dull, but helps.
– Trying to get fingerlift PBs: I found myself sliding from rehab into training too often. Getting in the rehab mindset and restricting myself to no more than 50% estimated rep max for general finger conditioning helped.
– Vert dirt: deep locks on small holds or pinches caused flare-ups. Trying to stick to steep jug-fest boulder problems with good feet where I could keep arms straight helped.
– Non-climbing load: lifting heavy boxes and tired children, cutting crusty bread... I think day-to-day activity was the biggest cause of flare-ups, particularly the kid-wrangling as there’s no warm-up and it’s hard to avoid. Just had to be a bit heartless at the end of the day…

Maintaining motivation is the crux. I was on the verge of cancelling two trips this year, but ended up having a great time on both occasions. Good luck.

 

[mr chaz]

Power Club:
Just one session this week, low motivation at the moment... think its the weather.
Thurs. Evening session in the shed, didn't get going until 21:30 and then had to dig deep to psyche up. Did no warmup before pulling onto the board and about 60 mins of 50-75% max effort bouldering.

 

[SA Chris]

Mon - Run 7km
Tues - not much
Weds - some weights, mostly dumbell flies
Thurs - lunch run, 7 km. First edge lifts in a while.
Fri - lunch session at Johnshugh. Morning sun had gone by lunchtime. So rock pretty cold, spent most of time warming numb hands, but did the traverse and a few other eliminates. First time touching rock since Oct hols
Sat - mild hangover, weather abysmal.
Sun - late wall session, nothing special but some new probs to go at on the reset roof.

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual; PM boxe.
Tue - AM as usual; PM 2x AM session.
Wed - PM boxe.
Thu - weights, bar work.
Fri - board climbing, did two problems and set another one.
Sat - boxing bag in freezing temps.
Sun - weights in freezing temps.

 

[duncan]

Hey Duncan, don’t know if it helps but here are a few things I was doing that delayed my elbow recovery and some things that helped:

– Too much volume in initial phase of rehab: I was doing high intensity lock-offs five days a week which made things worse. Dialed it back to two days activity before starting to see improvements.
– Underestimating warm-up required: I now usually spend 30–45 mins progressively loading the elbow before climbing or doing the lock-offs. It’s deathly dull, but helps.
– Trying to get fingerlift PBs: I found myself sliding from rehab into training too often. Getting in the rehab mindset and restricting myself to no more than 50% estimated rep max for general finger conditioning helped.
– Vert dirt: deep locks on small holds or pinches caused flare-ups. Trying to stick to steep jug-fest boulder problems with good feet where I could keep arms straight helped.
– Non-climbing load: lifting heavy boxes and tired children, cutting crusty bread... I think day-to-day activity was the biggest cause of flare-ups, particularly the kid-wrangling as there’s no warm-up and it’s hard to avoid. Just had to be a bit heartless at the end of the day…

Maintaining motivation is the crux. I was on the verge of cancelling two trips this year, but ended up having a great time on both occasions. Good luck.

Thanks again Tom,

Most of those ring true, especially the need to clearly differentiate between rehab. and training in the early phase of recovery.

Child is a bit old to wrangle but I don’t think doing the plumbing has helped.

I think a little and often approach to fingerboarding and rehab. hasn't helped in the past and thanks for reminding me. I will stick with comparatively high intensity but with a day or two off between each session.

My recent Fingerboard PB was lifting with my good arm, I'm not doing anything with my affected arm at the moment other than the pull-down exercises. A major advantage of lifting over hangs for me is I can usually work around injuries and keep doing something useful with my fingers that will hopefully help in the long run. Being able to try hard at something is good for the psyche too.

I am famous/notorious for being injured in the run-up to trips but then pulling something out of the bag. Although not always: had a week in Siurana five years ago where I didn't touch rock at all and just hiked around the Montsant massif.

 

[nik at work]

M - nothing
T - nothing
W - drove to the Works to drop Sam off, otherwise nothing…
T - you guessed it… nothing. Actually not entirely true. We ridiculously optimistically drove to Cressbrook and waded in to Rubicon with some idea that it might be dry. It very much Wasn’t
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - a couple of hours at the Works with Sam, mostly aimless wombling then aimless woodie-ing, then did some one-arm middle beastmaker slot hangs, +6kg on the left and +8kg on the right for a “quick 10 seconds”. Finished with an attempt at the pink circuit on the circuit, cocked it up looking for a hand hold because I didn’t realise the pink hold directly next to the pink hold I was holding as also pink and so could be used… muppet.

Too much work meant climb time took a serious hit.

 

[oldfella]

81kg
Noticed boost in energy & feeling great with some weight gain.
So good to have a normal life and eating again.

Monday -
Body weight repeaters. 5 sets 3 hangs 7:3

12mm edges.
Absolutely desperate. Unable to do any complete hangs

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
Long repeaters on lattice jug
2 sets of 12 hangs 10:5 ratio. Very pumped

Thursday
Rest

Friday
30min peloton ride

Saturday
Rest

Sunday
Repoint session at Awesome Walls

6a, 6a+, 6b+ through the roof, ? Easy6c on comp wall Onsight. Thought it would be harder. I was intending to Redpoint it
6c Redpoint failed Onsight, did next go.

 

[Nibile]

81kg
Noticed boost in energy & feeling great with some weight gain.
So good to have a normal life and eating again.

Come on!!! Great news!!!

 

[duncan]

81kg
Noticed boost in energy & feeling great with some weight gain.
So good to have a normal life and eating again.

Monday -
Body weight repeaters. 5 sets 3 hangs 7:3

12mm edges.
Absolutely desperate. Unable to do any complete hangs

Tuesday
Rest

Wednesday
Long repeaters on lattice jug
2 sets of 12 hangs 10:5 ratio. Very pumped

Thursday
Rest

Friday
30min peloton ride

Saturday
Rest

Sunday
Repoint session at Awesome Walls

6a, 6a+, 6b+ through the roof, ? Easy6c on comp wall Onsight. Thought it would be harder. I was intending to Redpoint it
6c Redpoint failed Onsight, did next go.

That's great to hear. Sounds like you're making a pretty good recovery.