UKB power club week 256 5th - 11th January 2015

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers (getting there) and keep working on shoulder stability

M. decent indoor training session and shoulders, weighted reverse flies etc
T. rest, shoulder stability
W. more shoulders and brief FB session
T. decent indoor session inc. bit of fingerboarding, more shoulders
F. dragged myself to the wall with my girlfriend because she had a rare burst of enthusiasm, feeling tired so did some easy problems
S. uncharacteristically lazy day
S. no car this weekend so went indoors again, did some training on the circuit board realising how miserable my stamina is

reasonable if uneventful week. I heard the wall is installing a pulley system with the FB, which I'm pathetically excited about. Hopefully will get out for some mileage this weekend and in the meantime the finger continues to improve which is no.1 priority.

 

[nai]

Seems a good time to rejoin as I'm starting from scratch again and there seems to be a decent level of psyche and input.

Background: back in November I got very close to climbing my 8a goal but put my back out before I managed to do it. After a couple of weeks rest & rehab I started going to the mini-works three times per week and traversing the vertical walls (ship's prow) for 20 minutes at a time, three sets per session, moving onto the steeper wall (20 degrees or so) as I improved and doing 2-3 sets of 15 minutes after a 20 minute warm up. Did this for four weeks.

Either side of Christmas I started doing some boulder problems, struggled on the 5s circuit to start with but after a few sessions things started to improve. Also tried deadhanging and climbing on my board at this point but was so poor that I decided it pointless starting a strength phase, so I've been doing an Advanced Base to get to a point that strength work will actually be effective. I'll do that rest of this week and am then off skiing for a week and will start strength thereafter.

Unfortunately I threw myself completely into the excesses of the season this year and went from a low of 55.2Kg at the start of November to an all-time high of 66.2kg on Jan 2nd. Somewhere around 58-60 is normal so aiming to get there, currently hovering around 61kg.

STG - finish Hot Fun Closing in Spring.
MTG - Raindogs in Autumn
LTG - probably looking at next winter for Brad Pit now

I'll hopefully do some trad (several E4 goals) at some point but it's pretty much all about redpointing this year

Since New Year:

Fri 2nd - mini-works - most yellows, half the blacks and a few whites, shut down by Murples
S 3rd - board - repeated my 10 problem warmup circuit five times with 10 minutes between sets
S 4th
M 5th - mini-works (there before Ron, how's that for commitment) 20 minute traversing, 90 mins bouldering, 15 minutes steep traversing
T- weights (pullups, pressups, tri ext, bicep curl, sh press, lateral raises, had to quit lock-off-laps as my back complained)
W - 30 minutes Turkish Get Ups, back didn't like it so sacked it early
Th - board - 3 repeats of warm up circuit
beast - 7 sets of 4 rep Repeaters, managed to hold low slots first time since October but couldn't complete a set
weights - Frenchies rather than pullups otherwise as Tue
F - hour at Minus Ten, rusty but quite pleased with performance.
S - thorough board warm up then spanked by legends (Ben, Basher, Mark Leach) at the Tor followed by a not bad -10 session, repeated a 6C+ which is my hardest problem there.
S - board warm up then Minus Ten again - did the low traverse and a couple of 6B/+ up problems.

 

[Simon Lee]

S Went to Harthill quarry as it was dry and sheltered according to connies thread. Various mates had various excuses as to why they couldnt make it.

1. Weather looked suspect
2. A google suggested limited and uninspiring probs
3. You were heading out late
4. You wanted to meet there

Kinell what a dump.

Sounds like I was right. As always.

Mind you, time spent in reconnaissance is rarely wasted - especially when others are doing the reconnoitering

 

[Simon Lee]

11.8 / 9

M. Noon. Systems board. OK on edges but found I was tired quickly - tried AnCap circuit but struggled then failed doing the 20/10 aerocap circuit
T. Eve. Foundry with Tom. 10 easy routes in the Furnace (active rest)
W.Eve. School Had a play on campus rungs. Rubbish. Managed to do Chalk and Blow 6A on 50 deg board
T. Eve. Fingerboard. Good sesssion - marked improvement
F. Eve. Knackered but dragged myself to do a fingerboard and short sess on by board. Missed having a glass or four of wine
S. Eve. Foundry with Tom. Warm up on auto belay routes. Bouldered on Wave. Auto belay to finish
S. PM. Finally dragged myself out. Tor. Dry but windy. Only kids there who didnt know any better. Did all the moves on Perverse Reverse. With tactical retreats to car to warm up and do Sudoku. Definitely the strongest Ive felt on it despite weighing heavy.

Short sessions are getting me through the Sharkathon. All a bit unstructured but fingers are getting stronger. Left shoulder seems well on the way to mending - can hang one-handed on a jug now without too much discomfort. Weight not coming off yet. Probably should be doing more AeroCap but will be doing plenty of endurance the week after in Chuliila ;D

 

[cheque]

M- Core. Did that "Ab ripper X" thing someone linked to. Hard to concentrate on the numerous situp variations while laughing at the presenter :lol:. They all felt pretty steady up to the 15th rep, when they became pretty hard.

T- More core.

W- Pullups, pressups, clean-and-press. Increased volume again.

T- Notts Depot. New comp problems. Flashed the first 23 (230 points- last months total was 228 ;D ), next three feel like they'll go when I'm fresh.

F- Feeling tired and paranoid about catching my girlfriend's hideous virus so didn't train apart from 30-minute daily stretching regime.

S- DIY business.

S- Filming at Black Rocks. Gear-lugging.

I lost 2.8lbs in a week of abstinence from sugar, which puts me closer to normal weight. More focused on my film than climbing at the moment so just trying to keep ticking over on training. Daily stretching routine is going well and I'm defnitely seeing flexibility gains.

 

[csl]

@cheque 'I hate it, but i love it' - at least the laughing is just more core exercise!

 

[french erick]

STG- get right hand back to normal; onsight another VIII
MTG- get back to a proper training routine to be fit for next spring and a Utah trip in October (for which I now need to find a new partner).
LTG- astroman/ romantic warrior in US- Onsight E5 on 5 different rock types

mon usual commute
tues a small but fun session at home
wed not at wall due to parents evening :thumbsdown: but managed to organise a 30 min fitness session of 10 reps repeaters before first parent arrived.
Thurs a fun crack session at home
Then we lost all electricity (central heating et al) for 3 days so exercise was to keep family warm in kitchen where we have a small wood stove. Outside was horrendous. Drink tea, some tea and more tea.

Finding it difficult to imagine maintaining training with big winter days out. This weekend will be 2 epic adventures which will require at least 3 days to recover from (hopefully some pretty remote VIIs :bounce