Promoting Anti-Capitalism Club 791 3 Feb 2025 - 9 Feb 2025

[Fiend]

Next week STG: Keep intensity the same or less on elbow - kinda, worked okay by the end. Look after neck - kinda, eased off overall. Continue with conditioning - not really. Learn to do stretching at home - no too lazy.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope or a pad - a couple of reasonable things. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - bit slack at this tbh. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - n/a. Look after injuries - mixed bag, neck and elbow eased gradually, random lower back thing annoying, (gym x 1) - x 1, elbow rehab x 2 - x 2, shoulder rehab x 2 - x 1, stretching x 3 - x 3.

M - Mixed activity. 20 mins walk. 2 hours sporadic gardening and brushing. Woke up with lower back sore and stiff for no reason whatsoever. Elbow sore throughout.

T - Nothing. Should have stretched to turn it into a proper rest day, but was too lazy. Lower back more sore and stiff.

W - 30 mins walk. 6C+, 6C. Stretching session. Elbow sore. Lower back more sore and stiff to start but eased off.

T - Rest. 5 mins insertion / 1.5 mins immersion cold water torture. Sun and no wind so more tolerable - especially getting out - although gf in a sulk again. Stretching session. Elbow rehab. Elbow okay to start, then increasingly sore without any activity, then even worse with elbow rehab - shouldn't have done it. Lower back and glutes sore and stiff but slightly less.

F - 50 mins walk. 6C, attempted 6C. Elbow a bit sore in morning but surprisingly okay later on. Lower back and glutes sore and stiff but slightly less.

S - Indoor bouldering @ RockOver Noblot. 6 x V2-4, 10 x V3-5 (8 flash, 2 x 2nd go), 9 x V4-6 (3 flash, 4 x 2nd go, 2 x 3rd go (mostly silly mistakes) plus attempted 2 more), 4 x V5-7 (1 flash, 3 briefly worked). Good fun as ever but quite weird / frustrating that I was punting and not flashing as many 4-6s as I felt I could - maybe being complacent? Warmed up with 1 hour digging and scraping - a sensible amount. Elbow okay in morning, and a bit sore after climbing but really quite okay given the intensity. Lower back and glutes sore and stiff, same as previous day. Neck a little bit sore.

S - Gym. Misc conditioning and a few machines. Basically warming up to stretching. Felt tired and shoulders felt mediocre. Was interested to notice that I can just manage dips on an assistance machine with 20kg taken off. Obviously the typical climber has at least 10kg taken off naturally in comparison, but still quite a discrepancy - probably shoulder dysfunctionality. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Stretching session. Elbow okay in morning. Lower back and glutes only a bit sore. Neck sore and stiff but eased off.


Hmmm. Mixed week AGAIN. Quite exciting having random aches and strains popping up, completely unrelated to any activity or training. On the plus side, the elbow easing off enough for a good volume session at ROB was reassuring.


Next week STG: Keep steady on elbow. Look after shoulders. Continue with conditioning. Learn to do stretching at home.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope or a pad. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[SA Chris]

Back on the wagon after skiing.
M - morning pullups. 7.5 km run in evening
T - morning pullups, lunch walk.
W - morning pull ups, 5 k with a bit of hill in evening, just about light enough to see at 5:30
T - morning pull ups, 6.7 km run in evening with 140m vert. First time running 2 days in a row in a while, felt it. Some edge lifts in evening, first since December.
F- lunchtime Johnsheugh. partly cloudy, but warm enough. Didn't get much done, just committed to throw for the top on eliminate I did last week.
S - wall session. Long, but didn't do anything new.
S - helped mate taken down his home wall. 2 hours, knackering work. Not much else, did some kettlebells in evening before falling asleep in front of TV.

 

[Wellsy]

This week can be only organised thusly

Before I had norovirus

After I had norovirus

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

ACAB Club....

M: 8-10 Routes @ AW - Steady up to F6c
T: Rest
W: 8-10 Routes @ AW - Steady up to F6c
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: 6+ Mile run in horizontal rain/hail/snow - cold!
S: 8-10 Routes @ AW - Steady up to F6c - tired!

Post Largerthon and post rib injury easing back into it all... Rest days were total rest (apart from a few elbow rehab curls) as felt I needed it! Pretty much all routes are done as doubles (i.e. lead up, lower fast and TR removing clips) to get back into the swing of climbing longer routes....

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxe.
Tue - weights. Tired.
Wed - AM as usual; PM boxe.
Thu - weights.
Fri - farmer's, new routine.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - boxing bag.

Need to get back to the board.

 

[Duma]

M - TCA, 120 min. 4 whites (3 flash, 1 2nd go) 3 blacks (1 flash, 2 in a few goes). Also attempts on 1 black and 1 blue.
T - TCA 150 min (lots of chatting in that time though). 2 whites (both 2nd go) 1 black (few goes). Lots of attempts on a blue.
W -
T - am, run, 6k, hilly, trail, 34 min.
pm, TCA, 90 min. 4 whites (3 flash, 1 3rd go) 4 blacks (2 fairly quick, 1 lots of goes but a dyno, 1 just lots of goes) 1 blue (bit of effort). Attempts on another blue.
F - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift.

69.5 kg

 

[Wellsy]

69

Nice

 

[Murph]

Week 6

M-strength stuff and stretching
T-strength and 5k easy run
W-strength and easy mini works pootle with my boy
T-5k easy, strength routine, slightly less easy works session with my girl
F-strength and stretching,
S-parkrun, first sub 26m in nearly 2 years, mini+works with both children, strength
S-strength and stretching

Weight 73.0->72.1, goal 65. The wife says I'm looking bit less bloated these days.

Get well soon wellsy

 

[Hoseyb]

M Boulders setting. I set about 6 problems VBasic to V8 in the morning. Afternoon testing the above and about 8 others V4 to V6.

T Second day boulder setting. Sore from yesterday, morning set 7 problems VBasic to V7, afternoon testing as yesterday.

W Rest

T Climbing outside! Finally made it, got out with my boss Alex for a visit to a slab I developed, I was still quite tired so did maybe 4 problems 6A to 6C, and tried a project until I lost too much skin. Alex repeated my 7A+ and put up a new 7B.

F Quick hit (around an hour?) try hard session indoor bouldering, couple of V5-6 I hadn't climbed clean during setting, and got my V8 which made me happy. Set to my strengths but positive all the same.

S Rest.

S Finger testing day! Followed the same protocol as 6 weeks ago. Overall hand half crimp has improved 6-8% Left and right respectively. Really interesting results in the individual fingers; left index improving 50% (finally over the injury then), right index no improvement (no obvious trauma but I'm going to give it tlc), both ring fingers pitiful improvement ( both historical pulley injuries, both recently grumbling, more tlc).
As usual all individual loading adds up to more than the whole hand score. I imagine the underperforming digits are holding the rest back. I found a paper ( McDermid 2004) that states the ratio of loading across the fingers averages at 25,35,25,15% index to pinkie. I'm sure this information could be usefully applied, but I'm still mulling it over. Certainly improving a weakness would reduce the strain on the rest...

 

[Hoseyb]

I forgot.friday, so I added it in. De-load week this week!

 

[oldfella]

84.5kg
Monday -
2hrs of Tennis after work

Tuesday
Fingerboard
18mm edges. 4x7s hangs total weight 102kg.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard
18mm edges. 4x7s hangs total weight 100kg

Friday
Rest

Saturday
1 hour of tennis in the morning
Awesome Walls after lunch.
session
12 problems warm up.

Then two x 20minute project benchmarks.
First one: Dayshift. the same 5+ from last week. Still not sent. 5 sessions now. Not progressed.
Second one: Snart 6a+. Fifth go.


Sunday
Tennis in the afternoon.

 

[Yossarian]

Better late than never…

M
T - 2 hours of board at the wall
W - 6 mile walk. FB pulls - nothing spectacular. Bit of board / sore tips. Then some push weights.
T - Wall. Bit of board, bit of trying new stuff downstairs.
F
S - Blokfest at Volume One. Quite a long day. Went round kids comp with son, managed not to wind him up too much. Daughter did it with one of her mates which resulted in her enjoying it a lot more and not stressing out. Fortuitously in the end, because she won her category. I enjoyed the grown-ups version in the afternoon. Climbed quite well but a slightly tweaked back didn’t help. No masters podium, but maybe next year.
S

Less long dog walks because of the atrocious weather, but somehow ended the week at 99kg, which is the first time I’ve been back in double figures since 2023. Yay.

 

[nik at work]

Running late… not much climbing this week.
M - nothing
T - the works
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - drove to Wales
S - turned 50, walked up Yr Wyddfa with the dogs. Anecdotal survey suggests:
The least well prepared hill walkers come from Liverpool and Swindon.
People who walk up hill on cold grey Saturdays in February are universally friendly and cheery.
Some people drop litter, I do not like those people (even if they are friendly and cheery)

S - swam in the sea for less than 5 minutes

A nice week of mostly not climbing related stuff (next week broadly similar). Will be back on it soon I promise…

 

[SA Chris]

Happy Birthday Nik

 

[Fultonius]

Been off the wagon recently (posting) but still training. Then fucked my thumb. Might get back on to at least track rehab and other exercise.

Did yoga a few times this week, run this morning (just 3.5k, first in months). Can do pullups and BW big slots on the BM2k, so will keep doing those to keep topped up.

 

[Duma]

Happy birthday Nik! And good work on the comp and double figures Yoss

 

[Hoseyb]

Happy birthday Nik, welcome to the 50 club! Hope Wales provided, it's quite nice in the dry.