Historical Nuggets

[remus]

Lovely work Fiend, thought I'd typoed that for a minute.

 

[remus]

Erik Grandelius is Swedish

The lists take a loose and poorly defined view of nationality, where people who live in a country for a long time are sometimes included.

 

[jwi]

Being Swedish means speaking contemporary norse with a Swedish accent, being Norwegian means speaking norse with a Norwegian accent. However long a Swede stays in Norway, or however long a Norwegian stay in Sweden, they will forever speak with their native accent. It is not possible to switch.

I could become American, French, Spanish or Ukrainian, but I could never be Norwegian.

This is all true, by the way.

 

[thunderbeest]

Erik Grandelius is Swedish

I took it in long consideration, and decided that it seems like he's been longer a part of the Norwegian climbing scene than the Swedish and is better known here?
In his profile you can see that I wrote a Swede living in Norway, but I still feel that he belongs on the Norwegian list with the amount of FA he's done around.

 

[remus]

For the Raven Tor experts: in Mountain 105 (1985) there's a lovely pic of Mark Leach climbing a line described as Revelations into the Prow and "effectively the first free ascent of the old aid route [the prow]". Does this have a name? There's a few variations written up (Rage etc.) but I can't see anything that obviously matches the description from the mag.

 

[kc]

 

[remus]

@duncan (or anyone else knowledgeable on Yosemite), what's the line marked b on this topo called these days? Currently reading an early issue of Mountain (#13, 1971) where the FA by Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding is reported.

 

[reeve]

Known as Original Wall of Early Morning Light, a far as I know

 

[Fatsloperaction]

@duncan (or anyone else knowledgeable on Yosemite), what's the line marked b on this topo called these days? Currently reading an early issue of Mountain (#13, 1971) where the FA by Dean Caldwell and Warren Harding is reported.

View attachment 2783

Is that Washington's Column? Went up the route by the same name round on the left in 2006 if it is the column.

The descent was shocking with the haul bag, came back down to the base of the valley a different person!

 

[duncan]

As reeve says, it's Harding and Caldwell's (no relation) Wall of Early Morning Light.

a is the line that became New Dawn, a different way of accessing the upper corners of the WoEML.

 

[remus]

Another pretty niche question: does anyone know if the David B. A. Jones who wrote "The Power of Climbing" in 1991 is the same as the Dave Jones who made the FA of Tess of the d'Urberviles on Dinas Cromlech?

 

[Johnny Brown]

Apparently yes.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/david-atchison_jones_article_in_climber-89126

 

[andy popp]

Definitely yes.

 

[remus]

Thanks both, good to know. Turns out I must have met him (albeit very briefly) when I bought a copy of one of his Jingo Wobbly Font Guides off him in a campsite!