Historical Nuggets

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Thanks for digging out the guide! I guess that means Dave either did it around 85/86 but didn't publicise it, or did it around 87/88 and there wasn't time to get it in to the guide.

I've dropped Phil Kelly a message to see if he can shed any more light on it.
I have a memory of Tony saying they did it at about the same time. I can’t remember if this was from chatting to him at Longridge or from an interview in the mags.
 
I've swapped a few messages with Phil Kelly on fb and he's got a book coming out on Lancashire (in the style of Peak Rock from what I can gather) with a whole chapter on Traverse of the Gods, including interviews etc. with many of the relevant people. Sounds like it's pretty near to completion, so that'll be the resource to use once it's out. Exciting times!
 
Bit niche but this thread is all about that.

Anyone know who did the first ascents of The Hulk and The Pinch at Crag X?
 
Hi all. Working on a list of all the Grit 8Bs and harder boulders for Climbing History. Wondered if anyone could help fill some gaps.

-When did Malc do Malcs Traverse at Stanage?

- When did Peckitt do Real Keelhaul?

Cheers.
 
Malc's traverse at Stanage isn't the '04 guide, so presumably after that but before the 2011 guide. Steve Mac linked Jerry's into Danny's at 8A+ around '98/'99.
 
So SteMac did the first 8b on grit. Never would have guessed that.

Do we know how it ended up being called Malcs Trav?
 
So SteMac did the first 8b on grit. Never would have guessed that.

Do we know how it ended up being called Malcs Trav?
Steve said via email that he didn't know and he was never too bothered about it being called that. Malc also said he didn't know where the rumour came from.
I suspect it was a guidebook author that was non the wiser.

Very ahead of his time with that ascent as well. Many years before another 8B came along.
 
Couldn’t see A Moment of Clarity at Thorn Crag on there 😬
(I miss the can of worms emoji)


(Smiling Buttress repeat date should be 2025, unless he was keeping it under wraps for a year)
 
Last edited:
A moment of clarity is currently recorded as E10...

Good spot on smiling buttress, need to get the fingers used to typing 2025!
 
For those interested in french sport Chris Hampton who does the Written in Stone pod has translated "Le 8eme Degre" or "The 8th Grade", a 1986 book by David Chambre and Jibe Tribout on the history of French sport climbing. Of particular interest is a list of all the 8th grade routes in France at the time.

He's released it on patreon but it's available on the free tier.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/8th-grade-119666007
 
For those interested in french sport Chris Hampton who does the Written in Stone pod has translated "Le 8eme Degre" or "The 8th Grade", a 1986 book by David Chambre and Jibe Tribout on the history of French sport climbing. Of particular interest is a list of all the 8th grade routes in France at the time.

He's released it on patreon but it's available on the free tier.

https://www.patreon.com/posts/8th-grade-119666007
Interesting. A couple of years ago I picked up a reasonably cheap used English language copy of the 2015 follow on, "The 9th Grade" by David Chambre, foreword by Jibé.
 
Tbh I've only skimmed it and looked at the - excellent - pictures. But it seems to have a pretty broad & accurate picture of rock climbing history, not too francocentric. I'd say it was 16 euros well spent for my secondhand copy
 
I've got a copy. I enjoyed the book, there are great photos through out and it's a generally quality production. There is some slightly lumpy translation and a few typos, but these are just my niggles. They are being sold as second hand on amazon for a few fuck alls, mine had never been opened by the look of it.
 

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