[Doylo]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

WARNING: advice from a lanky b*astard!!!

For those who end up pulling instead of jumping its not easy.

i locked it off (look at me)

[Nigel]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

WARNING: advice from a lanky b*astard!!!

For those who end up pulling instead of jumping its not easy.

i locked it off (look at me)

Ouch! Touche Paul, touche.

I can't do the crux move on Salar at all, and I don't find the moves into it easy either. No chance.

Adam, this is either a pathetic effort (in which case man up) or one of your patented attempts to look weak but talented, when in fact you're strong and talented. For Christ's sake I saw you burn off none other KEITH 8B-RADBURY at Rubicon on several problems that involved big moves off small holds. DO NOT BELIEVE THIS MAN! He is a limestone beast!

[Bonjoy]

True. Fact:- Limestone is made up of the fossil remains of tiny prehistoric proto-Long's.

[Paul B]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

WARNING: advice from a lanky b*astard!!!

For those who end up pulling instead of jumping its not easy.

i locked it off (look at me)

Well thats me told  ....

[Shy Ted]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

I agree with Chris 100%.  Salar is a piece of.  Dangerous is pretty nails.  Sissy is nails-er.  Hot Bum Fun is very difficult, Font 7a+ (my sweaty undies! - one of the hardest problems at Rubicon) into a tricky upper headwall on trad, with potential to maim yourself in the tree if you fall off (which I did)

[Paul B]

Dangerous is pretty nails.  Sissy is nails-er.  Hot Bum Fun is very difficult, Font 7a+ (my sweaty undies! - one of the hardest problems at Rubicon)

My left-testical, they're not nails for the grade they're just short and fierce.

[Kingy]

Did LTTI last night, I think its up to 8a but no more. The crux move is now about Font 7b I thought, going again for the big glued edge from the scar with RH (where the hold that's fallen off used to be) with LH on a crimp by your waist. RF in break. Only 2 moves into the crux and the top bit is cool but not desparate.

[Jaspersharpe]

Bloody hell Ted, you are a ticking machine! These 8a/8a+ routes are obviously too easy for you. Get on something hard.

[dobbin]

Good effort Ted Vegas!

With your right hand on the good hold, did you finger change it or did you so something else to get your left to it?

[Kingy]

Cheers Dobbin!

After sticking the big glued edge with the RH (the good hold you refer to I think) I made the clip. Then without matching go with LH to small triangular edge up left, only room for 2 tips with thumb on top or 3 stacked. RF way out right on low 'sticking out' edge. LF moves right onto slopey shelf. RH up to small sharp crimp. LF moves up and right again onto low edge with loads of rubber on it just up and right of break. LH up to better crimp - bit of a 'goey' move - pull hard on RH small crimp! Feet are very low at this point and I was a bit stretched out but it was the easiest way I could work out. Then LF up onto glued edge and you're into decent holds again.

[AndiT]

So, are Salar and Tribe both 8a? What's the consensus? I'd heard that Salar was considered 7c+  and Tribe was 8a+ 

[Paul B]

So, are Salar and Tribe both 8a? What's the consensus? I'd heard that Salar was considered 7c+  and Tribe was 8a+ 

Tribe's isn't 8a+ it's just a grim 8a
Salar isn't 7C+ its regarded as soft by many people but still as 8a, personally I found it quite tricky.

[dobbin]

I would agree with that. Tribes is hard for, but still 8a. And Salar is low in the same grade.

[corniceman]

I think the routes on Tonys buttress/majorca buttress are really good and of the rubicon/Raventor bouldery crimpy ilk. Does any one ever go there now?

[dave]

i've been going to have a look but not mustered the interest yet. main worry is that they'll all be dirty as fuck, and/or all mono horrorshows.

[Bonjoy]

I think it's a naturally clean bit of rock, so should be ok. The hardest route has a sick mono move, not sure about the rest. harris went not so long back and might know more

[corniceman]

Funny you suggest all mono horrors as my memory is infact that most routes have some kind of mono on them. However i thought the 8a+ agent provocateur was a top route offering sustained climbing on edges with a mono/side pull move at the top to the finnishing jug. As I remember the mono was a 'kind' mono.

The 8b I dont think has yet been repeated but I could be wrong. I worked it extensively but the crux for me was not holding the mono but using the piss little undercut out left to reach it (easier for the tall) After the mono it was 7b to the top. Again a good route. The horror though is the 8a to the left. this has a genuinely hard sequence and I think must be undergraded. It again is a good route but needs grade confirming. The 7c+ to the right of AP is also good.
The girdle 8a? well who knows!