[etjoset]

I spent a day or two on this about 5 years ago and got quite close. I know it's lost holds on at least one and possibly two occasions since then. Has anyone here done it in its current state and, if so, what might the current sport grade be and how hard/desperate is the crux past the first bolt?

[Houdini]

Nothing to add other than:  Best route name ever! 

[Paul B]

I spent a day or two on this about 5 years ago and got quite close. I know it's lost holds on at least one and possibly two occasions since then. Has anyone here done it in its current state and, if so, what might the current sport grade be and how hard/desperate is the crux past the first bolt?

I don't know if its lost any more holds (i'd doubt it as it was pretty thin at the time) but I did it the summer before last. The route is far from consistent because of the loss of holds and just generally grim. There are definately better routes, even at Rubicon. 8a seems fair to me, seems Smitton agrees over on 8a.nu....The top was pretty dusty/dirty as well.

Newman had to take a two week break after trying this with me as his fingers wouldn't stop aching  

[robertostallioni]

Did it more than 5 years ago at 7c+ and remember sharing a fag packet sized flat edge???? Then heard it had lost this hold and reported to be 8b! I knew the route so thought I'll have a bit of that! Did it again sharing scarred matchstick crimp?? a la the sissy, at 8a/8a+ I thought, but these short arsed routes are always difficult to grade.

[etjoset]

Thanks for the information. I think I'll give it a swerve and save myself a lot of heartache in the process.

[fatboySlimfast]

[SA Chris]

Which I think in turn may originate from

Abou Ben Adhem

Abou Ben Adhem (may his tribe increase!)
Awoke one night from a deep dream of peace,
And saw, within the moonlight in his room,
Making it rich, and like a lily in bloom,
An Angel writing in a book of gold:

Exceeding peace had made Ben Adhem bold,
And to the Presence in the room he said,
"What writest thou?" The Vision raised its head,
And with a look made of all sweet accord
Answered, "The names of those who love the Lord."

"And is mine one?" said Abou. "Nay, not so,"
Replied the Angel. Abou spoke more low,
But cheerily still; and said, "I pray thee, then,
Write me as one who loves his fellow men."

The Angel wrote, and vanished. The next night
It came again with a great wakening light,
And shoed the names whom love of God had blessed,
And, lo! Ben Adhem's name led all the rest!

Leigh Hunt (1784-1859)

[Paul B]

Did it more than 5 years ago at 7c+ and remember sharing a fag packet sized flat edge???? Then heard it had lost this hold and reported to be 8b! I knew the route so thought I'll have a bit of that! Did it again sharing scarred matchstick crimp?? a la the sissy, at 8a/8a+ I thought, but these short arsed routes are always difficult to grade.

The hold is significantly smaller than the sissy, i think its pretty comparable to Dangerous Bro's (quite easy for its grade given the height) it's definitely not hard enough to warrant a plus.

[Doylo]

Yeah its a bit nasty now the holds gone, very small crimp in its place. Has been done since by smit (and others i'm sure). I'd imagine its now a solid 8a cos it was a spicey 7c+ when i did it. Would disagree about Dangerous Brothers being soft. Its a crimp Paul 

[Paul B]

Yeah I've considered that comment in my head and the comparison I was thinking of was Pump up the power, got a little mixed up with the grades. Ok, so LTTI 8a, DB 8a. Dangerous Brothers is nice climbing as well...

[Shy Ted]

you're right, the crimp is much smaller than the sissy.  i went again doing a massive span, almost full body length, to the good hold higher up.  didn't even consider matching, seemed impossible

[Doylo]

seemed impossible

nothings impossible for you!!!

[cowboyhat]

Thanks for the information. I think I'll give it a swerve and save myself a lot of heartache in the process.

On the contrary, get involved. Its a good introduction to the shorter crimpier routes in Millers dale. Sure there are better routes but they are harder and you've got to start somewhere.

[Johnny Brown]

Does that go for me too? I had teenage designs on this route based purely on the name. Haven't been on it though, though I have failed to do the crux of the sissy. Should I bother even going?

[Nigel]

You might as well get on it, you'll be there anyway to finish off Caviar so why not?

[Bonjoy]

I'd say LTTI is now quite unpleasant for all but crimp loving feather weights. At Rubicon Dangerous Brothers looks better (less gnarly) and easier. Hot Fun Closing is nicer and probably easier than the Sissy IMO, but I find The Sissy very hard and have never done. You'd piss Salar, if you fancy a giveaway 8a at Rubicon. I could point you at various other bouldery sport routes you might like (mostly elsewhere).

[cowboyhat]

Maybe stick with Caviar. If only to say that you skipped 8a and moved directly on to 8a+.

But also because its a lot better.

[davej]

whats salar like ??? did tribe many moons ago when it was easy.

[dave]

salar is like some 5c climbing, make a clip on the steep bit, into a V5 slap, few 5b moves to finish. have not done it but was on it a few years ago and the moves ain't hard at all compared to any other 8a i've been on (rattle&hump, chimes start etc. sissy is leagues harder.). can never find anyone of the peeps psyched to crush it - you mad for it JB?

[Johnny Brown]

I can't do the crux move on Salar at all, and I don't find the moves into it easy either. No chance.

[Doylo]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

[davej]

thanks for the info dave. Will give salar ago in the next few weeks.

[Bonjoy]

I think you (JB) might like the weirdness of Weedkiller (the route not the boulder prob). A lot of sport climbers don't like it and find it hard at 7c+, but it's fine if you're used to using your brain as much as your fingers. No hard pulls/small holds on it. Well there is one small shit undercut in the roof on it but if you get your weight in you barely have to pull on it.

[Paul B]

Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.

WARNING: advice from a lanky b*astard!!!

For those who end up pulling instead of jumping its not easy.

[andy popp]

I'd second Bonjoy, I really enjoyed Weedkiller. I've mentioned it before but I'd also recommend The Vision at 7c+ - so long as its ever been rebolted (should be if it hasn't). At a lowergrade, Belladonna (a Welford route somewhere right of WCJ Cornice) is another nice short bouldery thing.