I spent a day or two on this about 5 years ago and got quite close. I know it's lost holds on at least one and possibly two occasions since then. Has anyone here done it in its current state and, if so, what might the current sport grade be and how hard/desperate is the crux past the first bolt?
Abou Ben AdhemAbou Ben Adhem (may his tribe increase!)Awoke one night from a deep dream of peace,And saw, within the moonlight in his room,Making it rich, and like a lily in bloom,An Angel writing in a book of gold:Exceeding peace had made Ben Adhem bold,And to the Presence in the room he said,"What writest thou?" The Vision raised its head,And with a look made of all sweet accordAnswered, "The names of those who love the Lord.""And is mine one?" said Abou. "Nay, not so,"Replied the Angel. Abou spoke more low,But cheerily still; and said, "I pray thee, then,Write me as one who loves his fellow men."The Angel wrote, and vanished. The next nightIt came again with a great wakening light,And shoed the names whom love of God had blessed,And, lo! Ben Adhem's name led all the rest!
Did it more than 5 years ago at 7c+ and remember sharing a fag packet sized flat edge???? Then heard it had lost this hold and reported to be 8b! I knew the route so thought I'll have a bit of that! Did it again sharing scarred matchstick crimp?? a la the sissy, at 8a/8a+ I thought, but these short arsed routes are always difficult to grade.
seemed impossible
Thanks for the information. I think I'll give it a swerve and save myself a lot of heartache in the process.
Salars piss for 8a. Dangerous is solid. Sissy is solid. I'd say Hot Fun is the hardest of them all.