[petejh]

I thought you looked good and sharp on that lower wall Simon, and counter to those suggesting trying to be in a 'better frame of mind' - which hasn't done the trick for you to date - I think a more angry, even slightly aggressive and forceful frame of mind might serve you better provided you can channel it into the moves and not at your belayer/fellow climbers.. The Oak's a power route after all, need a bit of forcefulness unless it's within your comfort zone. Maybe go on the days you're most pissed off and unleash it into the moves!

[teestub]

‘Better frame of mind’ does not have to mean zen like calm, like someone way smarter than me said, routes have been climbed in every state of mind. What I did however mean is not distracted, which is not going to help you at any point.

[Steve R]

F - .....hip thrust and sack swing)...

Are you treating these as separate protocols?  With correct form, the latter should be epiphenomenal to the former....

sorry going for a session on my board now

[Doylo]

I usually find when I try and get angry with something I climb shit. It’s that sweet spot between aggressive and relaxed that you need. Not easy to find. I find it hard with people chatting especially about inane stuff.

[shark]

I assume you know James from being a fellow midweek climber, perhaps a polite word before you set off would have lead to you being in a better frame of mind?

Yes but having a word like that can break my concentration and makes you feel self-conscious though I nearly did and have done on other occasions. I thought he was about to stop. A few grunts usually gives enough of a hint but this time it didn’t.

[36chambers]

the catwalk sounds like a barrel of laughs

[dunnyg]

Ill lend you a rope if you want a change of scene from the grit

[shark]

I thought you looked good and sharp on that lower wall Simon, and counter to those suggesting trying to be in a 'better frame of mind' - which hasn't done the trick for you to date - I think a more angry, even slightly aggressive and forceful frame of mind might serve you better provided you can channel it into the moves and not at your belayer/fellow climbers.. The Oak's a power route after all, need a bit of forcefulness unless it's within your comfort zone. Maybe go on the days you're most pissed off and unleash it into the moves!

Thanks Pete - yes I need to be forceful and not hold back as well as being really precise - the interesting challenge is being both. And remembering to breathe and do all those subtle body moves and move initiations. To climb like you really care and don’t care at the same time. Does your head in

[shark]

I usually find when I try and get angry with something I climb shit. It’s that sweet spot between aggressive and relaxed that you need. Not easy to find. I find it hard with people chatting especially about inane stuff.

This

[teestub]

Yes but having a word like that can break my concentration and makes you feel self-conscious though I nearly did and have done on other occasions. I thought he was about to stop. A few grunts usually gives enough of a hint but this time it didn’t.

More or less self conscious than shouting ‘shut up’ and then ‘cunt’? Was there a reason you had to climb in the next few minutes? If something isn’t right on something you’ve spent so much time on, it seems daft to waste a redpoint burn when you could just take 10 and get back into the correct frame of mind.

Sorry for joining the ‘telling Shark what to do on the Oak’ quiz, but this seems like it could be a small learning point.

[abarro81]

Weirdly enough, I think I find silence more distracting than inane background chat/beta. I've had to chat shit in rests plenty of times just to relieve the pressure of the silence of half a crag stopping a watching. Telling people to be quiet, whether beforehand or during, would probably totally raz me out and pile the pressure on.. but I can see why others might be different

[measles23]

Weight 64.9kg from 67.5k a few weeks ago.

Fucker, thought I was beating you for once - those bulging delts make you look fatter somehow

65.8kg

M- nul
T- Griff’s club with murph; silly wet though murph crushed bovine and I did ovine; linked mutton bustin to peel off the soaked sloperjug at the end of the hardness..
Secondary fingerboard session - 6 sets bw or +10 on bm2k smalls.
W- nul
T- Strength Asylum: Superset DL/1 armers - 8 sets DL up to 210 (small numbers compared to last spring but 3.2BW - a right grinder but the Beast was egging me on, so found some deep well of vanity to help lock it out). Managed good quality +10kg 1 armer on left; slightly less convincing on right..
Stoke AW 2 hrs - totally shut down by glassiness from using antihydral 6 days previously (teestub was right)
F- nul
S- surprise day pass - Griff’s club 3hrs - still silly wet, but linked mutton bustin to fall off the wet pinch at the top; not quite sure what I’m trying to prove here, as climbing wet isn’t really fun although it’s beginning to look as if it could happen..
Secondary fingerboard session - 10 sets bw or +10kg on bm2k smalls
Strength Asylum 60 min treadmill
S- Strength Asylum - 8 sets DL with 4 singles at 180; trying to alter setup to stop leaning forward too much. 3 sets bw 1 armer singles
Stoke AW 3 hrs mainly v3-v5 white circuit to start getting head into comp mode for next Wednesday .. Glassiness now worn off at last

Bellowing baldy fail:

[Doylo]

Weirdly enough, I think I find silence more distracting than inane background chat/beta.

That’s why you need the Real Thing soundtrack on 

[shark]

More or less self conscious than shouting ‘shut up’ and then ‘cunt’? Was there a reason you had to climb in the next few minutes? If something isn’t right on something you’ve spent so much time on, it seems daft to waste a redpoint burn when you could just take 10 and get back into the correct frame of mind.

I’m not an introvert and that’s not the point.

I was in the right state of mind and ready to go ie in the zone. Asking for quiet would have broken the spell. Got warmed up with a long walk to top of Cove, done some fingerboard recruitment, stripped off and ready to go. So went.

As I said I thought James was about to stop and if not then notice that I’d started.

Anyway the reason I fell off was that Guy short roped me.

[tomtom]

Weirdly enough, I think I find silence more distracting than inane background chat/beta.

That’s why you need the Real Thing soundtrack on 

I know someone who works in an open plan office wearing noise cancelling headphones playing coffee shop background noise... (from an app)

When I’m really in the zone nothing around me distracts me... shouts of encouragement register and help - but equally laughter/general chatter doesn’t matter.

I also find that getting angry does not help my performance when ‘redpointing’ something... all my hard stuff has been done when calm, calculated, smooth and precise. Well that’s what if felt like anyway.

[Bradders]

Can anyone recommend a max hang protocol to follow over the winter? I have a BM 2000 and a lattice rung to mess around on but no micros or similar ratty holds. Presume this would tend towards adding some weight to a given hold, perhaps bottom outside on the 2000? Ideas welcome.

I made the best gains of my life doing a really simple protocol as ably described by Monkey Boy in the below video.



I did that in the lead in to last year's grit season, along with climbing on the Depot boards, lots of TRX and just getting out.

More recently I've been mixing it up by doing weighted repeaters in varying hold types and found these beneficial. I think I'd probably agree with you that at this stage, your best bet to squeeze out a tiny little bit extra is to do power endurance as that recruits quicker than strength.

[Doylo]

I’ve never tried something for 10+ years but I know that after multiple months spanning a year or two on one climb it gets increasingly hard to overcome the fact that you’re so used to failing on it.  You’ve almost trained the failure over 100s of attempts. It’s like muscle memory in reverse.  Your mind and body expects to fall as it has done so many times. Finding a way through this is the crux, and it’s gets magnified the longer it goes on.  10+ years is long time of instilled failure to overcome.  For me the best solution would be to keep it as fresh as possible- short campaigns.  Climb on plenty of other stuff and always trying to find the edge in training that make help the breakthrough.

[spidermonkey09]

I usually find when I try and get angry with something I climb shit. It’s that sweet spot between aggressive and relaxed that you need. Not easy to find. I find it hard with people chatting especially about inane stuff.

From the Grampians guide, a photo caption reads: "Andrew Lindblade enjoying 'that serene feeling of simultaneous calm and aggression' that only hard climbers and mass murderers seem to experience."

[shark]

One thing I’m going to do is cut it short in the Spring if I don’t get through the horn move in 4 or 5 sessions.

Psychologically if I had ticked one or more of my other projects over the summer then that would have been a great boost. But I didn’t

[lagerstarfish]

Felt nicely warmed up and focussed but redpoint attempt disrupted by James shouting beta just below me up to Paul on the Bat Route crux breaking my concentration and then Guy short-roped me as I was setting up for the throw. Lost my rag as evidenced in the unedifying video below where its pretty obvious who the real cunt is.

NSFW  :

Right, I'm just popping out to Malham with a full gut and some bog roll. Brb.

If you ever need a belay, Will, give me a shout

[Bradders]

Going to quit lurking on these threads given the recent resurgence:

M - finished work late and got out to Caley at about half 6. Parking totally empty which I thought was weird. Freezing cold conditions but really humid, the combination of which probably explains the empty lay by. Anyway, tried Pedestal Arete Sit. Had 6 goes from the start and dropped the move to the RH dish every time. Couple of goes felt engaged on it and then something would pop. Frustrating. Probably shouldn't have bothered given how humid it was.
T - lunchtime 2 rounds of a circuit of weighted pull ups (x3r @ 20kg), dips (same reps/weight) and TRX Is & Ts
W - rest
T - 4km run at lunch, then very short circuit at the Depot as a warm up for Friday. Literally did a few blues, a couple reds, couple purples and a yellow then stopped
F - Crookrise. Finally tried Ron's II and managed the flash having watched a friend go up first. Then Razor. People seem to have found this easy but I didn't. Fourth session albeit with mitigating factors (training the day before, thin skin from trying other things, unmitigated fear of pinging off the razor, losing my finger tips and impaling myself on the jagged rocks below) always not helping previously. Anyway, did it about fifth go. Still found it terrifying getting my foot up, just feels so bunched. Pleased I don't have to do it again. Then first session of the season on Sole Fusion (tried it briefly on two occasions last whilst working other things). By this point in the day the sun was unrelentingly warm with zero cloud cover and barely any breeze. Massive progress though. Hitting the lip on the jump every go and stuck it a couple of times. Best go was getting my heel up imperfectly meaning it slipped off as I went to bump my RH up to the next sloper.
S - evening Depot session. Managed two yellows and got very close on three others.
S - evening 3km run

Very much looking forward to getting back up to Sole in cold conditions.

[Wood FT]

I thought you were climbing really well that day, sharp and accurate. Inspired me to try harder, sounds like sucking up but it’s true. I think redpoint aggression is a good thing, and if some of that spills out because I absently minded short-rope you, then so be it.

Anyway, like making a shit round of teas at work, I won’t get asked to belay again, my bouldering grade will increase, I’ll then move to Bishop and become an expert highball boulderer. Having gained the necessary level (v12/13) I will then make a triumphant return to the UK to solo the Oak, this will be filmed by Hot Aches productions and include numerous shots of me topless in Nige’s basement, talking about the journey. At the belay, I’ll clip in and suddenly be congratulated by Shark, who had been hiding inside the undercut by Chiseling.

[Footwork]

this is the best power club in ages.

[tomtom]

this is the best power club in ages.

It’s because we’ve all had our beetroot juice like good little soldiers

[spidermonkey09]

I made the best gains of my life doing a really simple protocol as ably described by Monkey Boy in the below video.

More recently I've been mixing it up by doing weighted repeaters in varying hold types and found these beneficial. I think I'd probably agree with you that at this stage, your best bet to squeeze out a tiny little bit extra is to do power endurance as that recruits quicker than strength.

Thanks, that looks like the ticket! Might have to use the lattice rung at home and a campus rung at the wall to ensure some sort of consistency. What depth is the bottom outside on the 1000?

How long did you do it for? Or did you periodically retest yourself and add more weight to suit?