F - .....hip thrust and sack swing)...
I assume you know James from being a fellow midweek climber, perhaps a polite word before you set off would have lead to you being in a better frame of mind?
I thought you looked good and sharp on that lower wall Simon, and counter to those suggesting trying to be in a 'better frame of mind' - which hasn't done the trick for you to date - I think a more angry, even slightly aggressive and forceful frame of mind might serve you better provided you can channel it into the moves and not at your belayer/fellow climbers.. The Oak's a power route after all, need a bit of forcefulness unless it's within your comfort zone. Maybe go on the days you're most pissed off and unleash it into the moves!
I usually find when I try and get angry with something I climb shit. It’s that sweet spot between aggressive and relaxed that you need. Not easy to find. I find it hard with people chatting especially about inane stuff.
Yes but having a word like that can break my concentration and makes you feel self-conscious though I nearly did and have done on other occasions. I thought he was about to stop. A few grunts usually gives enough of a hint but this time it didn’t.
Weight 64.9kg from 67.5k a few weeks ago.
Weirdly enough, I think I find silence more distracting than inane background chat/beta.
More or less self conscious than shouting ‘shut up’ and then ‘cunt’? Was there a reason you had to climb in the next few minutes? If something isn’t right on something you’ve spent so much time on, it seems daft to waste a redpoint burn when you could just take 10 and get back into the correct frame of mind.
Quote from: abarro81 on November 05, 2018, 08:28:33 pmWeirdly enough, I think I find silence more distracting than inane background chat/beta. That’s why you need the Real Thing soundtrack on
Can anyone recommend a max hang protocol to follow over the winter? I have a BM 2000 and a lattice rung to mess around on but no micros or similar ratty holds. Presume this would tend towards adding some weight to a given hold, perhaps bottom outside on the 2000? Ideas welcome.
Quote from: shark on November 05, 2018, 01:46:05 pmFelt nicely warmed up and focussed but redpoint attempt disrupted by James shouting beta just below me up to Paul on the Bat Route crux breaking my concentration and then Guy short-roped me as I was setting up for the throw. Lost my rag as evidenced in the unedifying video below where its pretty obvious who the real cunt is.NSFW : Right, I'm just popping out to Malham with a full gut and some bog roll. Brb.
Felt nicely warmed up and focussed but redpoint attempt disrupted by James shouting beta just below me up to Paul on the Bat Route crux breaking my concentration and then Guy short-roped me as I was setting up for the throw. Lost my rag as evidenced in the unedifying video below where its pretty obvious who the real cunt is.NSFW :
this is the best power club in ages.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on November 05, 2018, 03:31:00 pmI made the best gains of my life doing a really simple protocol as ably described by Monkey Boy in the below video. More recently I've been mixing it up by doing weighted repeaters in varying hold types and found these beneficial. I think I'd probably agree with you that at this stage, your best bet to squeeze out a tiny little bit extra is to do power endurance as that recruits quicker than strength.Thanks, that looks like the ticket! Might have to use the lattice rung at home and a campus rung at the wall to ensure some sort of consistency. What depth is the bottom outside on the 1000? How long did you do it for? Or did you periodically retest yourself and add more weight to suit?
I made the best gains of my life doing a really simple protocol as ably described by Monkey Boy in the below video. More recently I've been mixing it up by doing weighted repeaters in varying hold types and found these beneficial. I think I'd probably agree with you that at this stage, your best bet to squeeze out a tiny little bit extra is to do power endurance as that recruits quicker than strength.